The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
03-28-2016, 04:10 PM
#2376
Slipper Setting
Now as far as the slipper goes, I'd clean and deglaze the slipper pad (rub both sides of pad with fine grit sandpaper) and properly set the tension of the slipper spring. There are a few ways to set the slipper up correctly, but the following video shows, what I think would work the best for the original Evader ST tranny gears.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZlAu8xsIA0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZlAu8xsIA0
03-28-2016, 04:24 PM
#2377
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I usually place the pinion gear and spur gear too close. but just now i tried the paper technique and forwards it moves fine but backwards it sounds like its stripping.
03-28-2016, 04:29 PM
#2378
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let me clarify something i converted it to brushless which involved changing the gear box. not sure if that changes any maintenance though.
Last edited by Deadlynightshade; 03-28-2016 at 04:32 PM.
03-28-2016, 04:36 PM
#2379
You say the hole in the spur is too big. There are two top shafts that will fit the Evader. Depending on which top shaft you choose will determine which slipper system is needed...thus will determine which spur gear is need or can be used.
03-28-2016, 04:56 PM
#2380
. I'm going on 4+ years with the Brushless Evader tranny. My only gripe is that I run in a very dust environment which means my outdrive bearings take a beating, and I have to replace them a couple times a year. If you changed the idler gear and the diff gear to the metal ones...jump on over to EXT2Rob's http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-e...of-thread.html
03-28-2016, 05:02 PM
#2381
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I wasn't sure about what tranny you were using as the original ST is quite fragile when you start strapping more power onto the motor mount. I glad to hear you got the EXT/Brushless Evader gearbox installed.
You say the hole in the spur is too big. There are two top shafts that will fit the Evader. Depending on which top shaft you choose will determine which slipper system is needed...thus will determine which spur gear is need or can be used.
You say the hole in the spur is too big. There are two top shafts that will fit the Evader. Depending on which top shaft you choose will determine which slipper system is needed...thus will determine which spur gear is need or can be used.
will the original top shaft handle the power of brushless. I have the brushless differential and idler, i'm going to take out the brushless shaft to see if that will do anything.
Last edited by Deadlynightshade; 03-28-2016 at 05:16 PM.
04-24-2016, 07:02 AM
#2383
Complete Brushless Evader Diff
Another sad day for all the Evader users...the complete assembled gear diff for the Brushless Evader has shown to be discontinued on Tower Hobbies 
. I can't find them one eBay either.
Positive note: One can still get the parts to build the Brushless Evader tranny...you just have to buy the case, outdrives, bevel gears serperately
.
. I can't find them one eBay either. Positive note: One can still get the parts to build the Brushless Evader tranny...you just have to buy the case, outdrives, bevel gears serperately
.
05-02-2016, 12:24 PM
#2384
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I saw that. Real bummer, there's like nothing on eBay either. I was just thinking about picking one up for a spare about two weeks ago. I guess I'll be trying to buy the EXT diff and then the brushless gear case. Putting those two together should produce an Evader Brushless diff. I think I'm going to start stocking up on that kind of stuff. Those rollers I picked up earlier are great but don't have everything.
05-08-2016, 03:50 PM
#2385
Getting ready to put back together the rear end of the ST. This was after doing what I knew must be done...replace the diff bearings.
I think I have tried about all the normal outlets for bearings over the years. Everything except ceramic bearings, and I'm not about to go that direction. Whoever makes the Duratrax bearings, I would like to know, 'cause I had the best luck with them. Those and Associated OEM bearings are great.
I think I have tried about all the normal outlets for bearings over the years. Everything except ceramic bearings, and I'm not about to go that direction. Whoever makes the Duratrax bearings, I would like to know, 'cause I had the best luck with them. Those and Associated OEM bearings are great.
05-09-2016, 03:23 PM
#2386
I don't know why I second guess myself.
After taking the chassis apart, and yanking out the gearbox to take some video, of what I thought to be some extreme play from the outdrives... my number one nemesis shows up. A blown diff bearing. The diff outdrives always had some play in them, and the blown bearings just added to the wobble of the diff. I guess I was hoping it wasn't the bearings again. That's my biggest complaint in RC...knowing that I be replacing those bearings in short order. It doesn't matter whether it's Duratrax or Associated 2wd gearboxes. Those diff bearings are always the first to go bye-bye.
That's the price I pay for running on a dusty outdoor track. The Evader ST makes it's share of dust. Enough dust to find it's usual spot to get into...the gearbox's diff bearings.When I say dusty, I mean dusty. When I get out the 1/8 scale buggy with BigBlocks churning up the ground, the neighbors are sure glad I'm on the other side of the road and 200 yards away
.
After taking the chassis apart, and yanking out the gearbox to take some video, of what I thought to be some extreme play from the outdrives... my number one nemesis shows up. A blown diff bearing. The diff outdrives always had some play in them, and the blown bearings just added to the wobble of the diff. I guess I was hoping it wasn't the bearings again. That's my biggest complaint in RC...knowing that I be replacing those bearings in short order. It doesn't matter whether it's Duratrax or Associated 2wd gearboxes. Those diff bearings are always the first to go bye-bye.
That's the price I pay for running on a dusty outdoor track. The Evader ST makes it's share of dust. Enough dust to find it's usual spot to get into...the gearbox's diff bearings.When I say dusty, I mean dusty. When I get out the 1/8 scale buggy with BigBlocks churning up the ground, the neighbors are sure glad I'm on the other side of the road and 200 yards away
.
05-21-2016, 05:59 AM
#2389
See this thread:http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-e...of-thread.html
Unfortunately, the Evader has been discontinued. Parts will be available for a little while, but don't be too hard on it if you want to keep it running. Welcome to the forum, though.
Unfortunately, the Evader has been discontinued. Parts will be available for a little while, but don't be too hard on it if you want to keep it running. Welcome to the forum, though.
05-22-2016, 04:23 AM
#2391
I'm at a loss of ideas. I personally never encountered a loud noise from an ESC in any RC. Are you sure it's from the speed control? What type of noise, i.e. high pitch, low hum, grinding, chatter, zipper....? Does it do it all the time? Once the RC gets moving in reverse, does the noise continue?
Come to think of it...I do have hearing loss in the upper most ranges. Probably why I've never noticed it before. I blame it all on jet engines, rock-n-roll, and those little red rolls of cap gun ammo being hit with a hammer when growing up
.
Come to think of it...I do have hearing loss in the upper most ranges. Probably why I've never noticed it before. I blame it all on jet engines, rock-n-roll, and those little red rolls of cap gun ammo being hit with a hammer when growing up
.
Last edited by RustyUs; 05-23-2016 at 06:49 AM.
05-22-2016, 10:59 AM
#2392
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Yeah it always make's a high pitch noise when I go reverse on the throttle. It is loud. It seems that it has a late command response. But when I continue the go on the reverse it will stop. Also, when I go reverse the red light turns on, then off as I continue. I do not know what it is.
So far when I bought the car a couple day's ago I have installed a new shock, a new clutch slipper clutch case and 35weight oil for shock's.
So far when I bought the car a couple day's ago I have installed a new shock, a new clutch slipper clutch case and 35weight oil for shock's.
05-22-2016, 04:51 PM
#2393
Have you tried using the throttle trim knob on your transmitter to find the center of the dead-band? Turn the trim knob one way and the car should try to move forward or backward when you get to the end of the travel. Go back and forth with the trim knob until you find center. Then when you give the throttle trigger reverse, the car should go in reverse. This assumes of course that you did the ESC/transmitter calibration to begin with. Is it the stock Duratrax ESC and Photon 2 motor? What are you using for a radio? That noise you are hearing is the system trying to turn the motor and move the car, but it's just on the edge.
Last edited by EXT2Rob; 05-22-2016 at 04:53 PM.
05-23-2016, 07:09 AM
#2394
The Evader EXT came with a Sprint 2 ESC. Which is a good thing...I think. The ESC will setup automatically when turned on. Turn on your transmitter first, and Do Not touch the trigger when you turn on the ESC. ESC is ready to go when LED is steady.
andd46179, if and when you get the feel for increasing speed and durability, just remember that speed control was designed for brushed motors in the 20T ~ 27T range I believe. Looking at your pics, I would say you have a stock Photon Speed 2 motor in the EXT. It's a 20 turn motor and it's at the speed control's so called "limits" for what it can handle.
andd46179, if and when you get the feel for increasing speed and durability, just remember that speed control was designed for brushed motors in the 20T ~ 27T range I believe. Looking at your pics, I would say you have a stock Photon Speed 2 motor in the EXT. It's a 20 turn motor and it's at the speed control's so called "limits" for what it can handle.
Last edited by RustyUs; 05-23-2016 at 07:23 AM. Reason: added link
05-23-2016, 07:28 AM
#2395
Is the delay when you are running the truck at speed and you suddenly push the trigger forward; looking for some brake/reverse? It is normal for today's ESCs to not allow reverse to happen until your RC comes to a stop, and you have to do a second push/pump on the trigger to get reverse to engage. I don't know anything about the Duratrax ESC having a safety feature that could possibly causing the delay you have. Is it possible the delay is there to save the tranny from sudden energy transfer from the motor? I don't know.
Last edited by RustyUs; 05-23-2016 at 07:38 AM.
05-23-2016, 10:48 AM
#2396
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okay so there is no reset button's for me to do a calibration with the esc and transmitter, but my real problem is that my throttle on the transmitter has my forward and reverse switched. I did a calibration with the throttler servo reverse switch but no luck. I am new to this, maybe that is why I can not seem to get this right.