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RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more Discuss electric RC off-road, buggies & trucks here. Also discuss brushless motors, speed controllers aka ESC's, brushed motors, etc

The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

Old 05-23-2016, 11:57 AM
  #2401  
RustyUs
 
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One of the two throttle servo settings (normal or reversed) on the transmitter should make the ESC do what you want. I don't see why it would matter if the ESC is on or off when you flip the throttle servo reverse switch; as long as you have the throttle trim in the neutral setting.

Just in case you don't have the manual...
EXT Manual: http://manuals.hobbico.com/dtx/dtxd29-manual.pdf
Old 05-23-2016, 12:13 PM
  #2402  
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This EXT was bought used?
One other question: Does the steering work as it should?
Old 05-23-2016, 12:21 PM
  #2403  
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ok so I my setting's are
and my reverse and forward are switched. I do not know.
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:26 PM
  #2404  
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yes, it was bought used. the steering work's as it should, yes.
Old 05-23-2016, 12:30 PM
  #2405  
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ill make sure I post a video of it running once I get the backward throttle problem figured out.
Old 05-23-2016, 12:32 PM
  #2406  
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Originally Posted by andd46179
when I try to flip the switch "th rev" it will spin the tires, it will not fix the forward backward problem, any help?
once the tires are spinning, use the "TH.Trim" knob to find center, where the wheels will stop spinning. now try using the throttle and brake and reverse. normal now?
Old 05-23-2016, 12:45 PM
  #2407  
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I followed on from what you said ext2Rob and it worked. I turned on the Th. Rev switch to reverse and moved the trim but the wheels stayed in reverse after moving the trim to the end of both sides so I kill switched the esc with the th. rev switch in reverse. Then as I turned the esc back on forward work's so I'm going to my back yard to record it.
Old 05-23-2016, 02:54 PM
  #2408  
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delete

Last edited by andd46179; 05-23-2016 at 03:05 PM.
Old 05-23-2016, 03:51 PM
  #2409  
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Ok, So here is my backyard video

https://youtu.be/wkl_mSR-R2c https://youtu.be/rCxyxQgwAzU
Old 05-26-2016, 03:06 PM
  #2410  
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Hello Ext2Rob, So I want to put this brushless setup you recommended into the Evader EXT I have, http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-9t-3650-motor.html, but I am curious about the part of the gear's I have to replace. Is it the idler gear or top shaft?, for my specific model. Can I just get any 2.4ghz receiver to go with this transmitter, http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-ct3c-3...lcd-green.html. Thank you.

Last edited by andd46179; 05-26-2016 at 03:11 PM.
Old 05-26-2016, 05:33 PM
  #2411  
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Duratrax Idler Gear Metal & Shaft Evader EXT2


The EXT came with a plastic idler gear. If they are anything like the original ST's plastic idler gear, then most high powered motors will strip the gear in no time. That linked metal gear above should last a good few years , and that FlySky FS-GT3C transmitter comes with a receiver.

Last edited by RustyUs; 05-26-2016 at 05:44 PM.
Old 05-27-2016, 06:45 AM
  #2412  
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Originally Posted by andd46179
Hello Ext2Rob, So I want to put this brushless setup you recommended into the Evader EXT I have, http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-9t-3650-motor.html, but I am curious about the part of the gear's I have to replace. Is it the idler gear or top shaft?, for my specific model. Can I just get any 2.4ghz receiver to go with this transmitter, http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-ct3c-3...lcd-green.html. Thank you.
It depends on what EXT you have. The EXT2 and EXT2.4 came with a metal idler gear (the middle gear in the transmission). Your top shaft gear should be fine, but if you got the car used, not new, you should look closely at all the tranny gears, and replace any that are worn so that the gear teeth have become sharp and pointy. The gear you have to worry about is the differential gear housing. If you can still get the metal diff gear housing, do so. The diff gear is the one that can strip out. HOWEVER, my buddy ran the same motor system with his original plastic diff gear, and he never stripped his. So depending on your driving style, you may not have a problem. I am apparently harder on it than he is.

I would advise AGAINST getting the GT3C radio, as nice as its features are. It is powered only by a 4V single cell lipo. I have bought THREE of the GT3C radios over the last couple years, and have sent all of them back. The GT3C just doesn't have the power that their own GT2 or GT3B radios do because those radios are powered by eight AA batteries, ~11 volts. Just get a Flysky GT2 for $20. They all come with a receiver.
Old 05-31-2016, 09:29 AM
  #2413  
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I'm with Rob on the radio thing, a single lipo cell (4.2v fully charged) just isn't enough. Get the GT2 or GT3B for sure. If you want lipo instead of changing out 8 AA batteries every other month, there is a mod and a certain 3S battery that you can buy. 12.6v fully charged and 9.6v fully discharged fits perfectly in the parameters of the radio's voltage regulator and low voltage alarm. I've actually been doing the 8 AAs for a few years now, thinking about switching to the lipo mod this summer though, since I just discovered it last fall.

BTW, I can see why your motor wire fell off. That grass in your backyard is killing that brushed motor. It's quite common when running a brushed motor that it'll overheat when under a big load, and the terminals actually get hot enough to melt the solder, causing the wire fall off. You should really mow that, because even when you go brushless, tall grass is an issue. When a brushless motor overheats, the internal magnets get permanently weaker, causing it to put out less power than before.

Last edited by DieHarder; 05-31-2016 at 12:13 PM.
Old 05-31-2016, 04:12 PM
  #2414  
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It's generally a good practice to have an infrared thermometer to monitor your motor temps.
Old 06-17-2016, 02:12 PM
  #2415  
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Today was a great day. I got to run the Evader at the track once again after a long streak of me driving other RCs. One thing the ST showed me today...how great of driver I am....Hahaha .

Seriously, I've been busy trying to get other RCs dialed in; built, or get parts for. Now that I have my borrowed Evader's tires back on the axles, off to the track I went. After driving a squirrely butt 2wd SC truck for the past two weeks, that feeling was brutal. Put the Evader on the same dirt that the SC was on... the ST was a pleasure to drive, and made me feel like I knew what I was doing .

The last time I went over the Evader and re-built the shocks I think I used 20wt in the front and 20wt in the rear. I normally don't use that thin of oil (normal setup I use 30wt front/27.5 or 30wt rear), but I had a bottle that I'm trying to use up. So my shocks were a little under dampened. Great smooth ride, just a bit of bottoming out on a few washboard/bumpy areas.

Last edited by RustyUs; 07-12-2016 at 04:05 PM.
Old 06-20-2016, 07:38 PM
  #2416  
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I've always wanted to take my Evader to track. Might get a chance soon since a church in town has decided to rope off a section of lawn and put in a half-legit track. Nothing spec, but it's something.

I agree, love driving the ST a lot. I run 35wt all around and was looking at dropping to 30wt in the front. But I just installed a rebuild kit on the ST shocks and for the first time in the history of me owning the car, the shocks actually sealed up and haven't leaked a drop in 5 hard runs. So yeah, there's no way I'm messin with em now... lol
Originally Posted by RustyUs
Today was a great day. I got to run the Evader at the track once again after a long streak of me driving other RCs. One thing the ST showed me today...how great of driver I am....Hahaha .

Seriously, I've been busy trying to get other RCs dialed in; built, or get parts for. Now that I have my borrowed Evader's tires back on the axles, off to the track I went. After driving a squirrely butt 2wd SC truck for the past two weeks, that feeling was brutal. Put the Evader on the same dirt that the SC was on... the ST was a pleasure to drive, and made me feel like I knew what I was doing .

The last time I went over the Evader and re-built the shocks I think I used 20wt in the front and 20wt in the rear. I normally don't use that thin of oil (normal setup I use 27.5wt/30wt), but I had a bottle that I'm trying to use up. So my shocks were a little under dampened. Great smooth ride, just a bit of bottoming out on a few washboard/bumpy areas.
Old 06-23-2016, 11:49 AM
  #2417  
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Originally Posted by DieHarder
I've always wanted to take my Evader to track. Might get a chance soon since a church in town has decided to rope off a section of lawn and put in a half-legit track. Nothing spec, but it's something.

I agree, love driving the ST a lot. I run 35wt all around and was looking at dropping to 30wt in the front. But I just installed a rebuild kit on the ST shocks and for the first time in the history of me owning the car, the shocks actually sealed up and haven't leaked a drop in 5 hard runs. So yeah, there's no way I'm messin with em now... lol
Having some sort of track to run on is better than nothing. That's great! I know if I did not have a place to run my RCs within walking distance, I probably would not be here .

First time for shock rebuild kit...that's awesome! I know my shocks have the original shock cartridges, but I at least change the o-rings once a month or more. It all depends on the amount of packs I put through the Evader. I've reverted back to marking down each and every run I make with each RC. I try to do my bearing cleaning/lubing; together with rebuilding shocks, every 10 packs for my 1/10 buggy and stadium trucks. I bought a crapload of them red-orange-ish o-rings from The O-Ring Store LLC. Buying prepackaged OEM shock o-ring/rebuilt kits gets to be a $$$ endeavor after awhile. Having the same size o-rings in most, if not all, of my 1/10 RCs helps, so I buy bulk packs of 100 pieces at a time.
Old 07-12-2016, 04:36 PM
  #2418  
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Yesterday the Evader ST got my full attention.

The adjustments I made before, on the shock oil/placement of the shocks, wasn't working out so well. The smooth ride I thought I had was actually almost Pogo stick style of shock absorption . Being so close to the truck going over the washboard section...I could hear the chassis slapping. 30wt oil went back in the shocks again, and placement of shock ends were back in stock set-up holes (except for the rear shocks being mounted on the inner holes of shock tower).

The Gladiator foams in the rear feel like they are disintegrating into nothing.
Old 07-12-2016, 05:11 PM
  #2419  
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My bad, I messed that up. lol I should have moved the commas around. But what I meant to say, is that I just installed a shock rebuild kit (5th rebuild on these shocks), and for the first time in all rebuilds/different shocks, they actually sealed up. Meaning I've rebuilt this set of shocks 5 times before and the previous set of shocks I had on there got rebuilt 7 times.

And before you ask, the answer is yes, I actually bought 12 of the Duratrax rebuild kits...

[QUOTE=RustyUs;12227418] First time for shock rebuild kit...that's awesome! I know my shocks have the original shock cartridges, but I at least change the o-rings once a month or more. [QUOTE]
Old 07-13-2016, 06:47 AM
  #2420  
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Foams are gone huh? I hate how they disintegrate before the tires are used up. I've mostly given up on the supplied open cell foam, and either make my own, or I buy the blue closed cell foam inserts. The blue foams last as long as the tires.

Have you ever replaced the foam in a still good tire? It's pretty easy. Using a good X-acto blade, cut the inner bead of the tire around the rim. Fold the tire back on itself and remove the old foam. Pop in a new foam, then fold the tire back into place. Hand roll the tire a few times to seat the foam, then re-glue the inner bead. Now you can use up the rest of the tire.
Old 07-14-2016, 02:47 PM
  #2421  
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Okay, I'm game. What or where do you get your foam from? If you stated somewhere before, please refresh my memory.

I never had a problem with foams before, 'cause I've always blown through the tires in a week, day, or even a couple of runs. Them Gladiator tires on the Evader were my introduction to Pro-Line's M2 compound. They are coming up on the two year mark of being used . They are worn down to the "block" section of the tire now. A couple of weeks, and I'm sure I'll be down to the "ribs" on the tire.

The ST will be getting some more of the Gladiators for sure...as long as Pro-Line keeps making them. I've said it many of times (I think) It would be a shame to have so called "off-road" RCs and no knobby tires to put on.
Old 07-15-2016, 03:51 PM
  #2422  
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I usually got annoyed with the Glads by the time they got down to the blocks. New tire time. 😏

The foams I'd make were made with egg crate foam glued together, then carved with a steak knife into a round foam shape. Pretty time consuming when you can just go buy a pair of blue foams for what, $12? But being retired, sometimes I have more time than money.

I agree with you about tires with some kind of knobby for off road. If ya gonna play in da dirt, ya need some kind of pin tire. I liked the Glads, but when I started using them on my 4wd cars I didn't like the grip drop off once you wore down the first pin step. I tried some Calibers and found they actually gripped better in dry dusty conditions. So I've been using them since. Of course, ProLine killed the Caliber 2.2 truck tire. 😬 Natch! (I bought several pair on Amazon) Fortunately they're still making the Caliber SC. They're great on short course trucks. And the amazing thing is, even though they're a small pin tire, they last a heck of a long time. And the pins are the same size all the way down to the tire carcass, so the grip level stays the same.
Old 07-30-2016, 06:05 PM
  #2423  
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Anybody have Evader Brushless diff parts that they feel like parting with?

I'm freaking out here. Brushless diff gears are basically off the market. I'm trying to stock up on parts for the future and it's getting tough to find this stuff. lol I'd like to get another Evader going too and it needs one of those metal diff gears, along with some other stuff. So yeah, if somebody has too many parts (fat chance), let me know and I'll pay up.
Old 07-31-2016, 05:48 AM
  #2424  
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First the complete Brushless Evader diff and now the Duratrax DTXC7453 Metal Gear Case Set has indeed been discontinued. Quick search... and nowhere to be found in my usual spots. Try here:http://hobbyhobby.com/store/product/...shless-Evader/
Old 07-31-2016, 06:35 AM
  #2425  
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Thanks Rusty, but man I wish they took PayPal. That's kind of a deal breaker for me. I saw Sears had them for sale too, but I'd have to pay a few dollars more. I'm gonna call my LHS and see what he has to say about old stock. If all fails, I might be ordering from Sears. lol

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