The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
07-31-2016, 06:36 AM
#2426
I just got done posting, in another thread, about my OCD and older RCs. The Evader is showing it's age with "discontinued" showing up on parts on Tower's site. The Brushless Evader's tranny is the last straw for me. Not having it or being able to find parts to build one is just ridiculous! 
I'm done, and over it. I knew the day was coming. We all knew. I was thinking the other day about selling everyting (Evader-ish), 'cause I got tired of worrying about it. Now I don't have to...sweet.
I'm done, and over it. I knew the day was coming. We all knew. I was thinking the other day about selling everyting (Evader-ish), 'cause I got tired of worrying about it. Now I don't have to...sweet.
07-31-2016, 07:03 AM
#2427
I surprised they have two left, and thought about getting them. I have enough to last me another decade, so I'll let them slide into other people's hands so they may enjoy a great tranny ...https://www.amazon.com/Duratrax-Diff...ss+evader+diff
07-31-2016, 10:39 AM
#2428
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Ok, so I called my LHS and got nowhere, like usual. Sears updated their site and shows them now out of stock. I called Hobby Hobby up in Ontario and they checked to find that they were out as well.
Man, I didn't even see that on Amazon! Wow, thanks Rusty! I'll order both tonight, if you need one down the road, let me know.
Man, I didn't even see that on Amazon! Wow, thanks Rusty! I'll order both tonight, if you need one down the road, let me know.
08-05-2016, 05:05 PM
#2430
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The diff cases showed up today. Amazon still shows that there is one left if somebody wants another. Great lead Rusty!
On another note, my Velineon system in my main Evader has been acting up something fierce! I'm not sure if it's the known power button issue or what, but I decided to pull it after 4 years running strong. Keeping it as a backup or maybe drop it in another truck. I'd sell it, but I don't think anybody will pay money for something that's been abused 4 years straight.
To replace it, I bought the HobbyWing EZrun SC8 and 3400kv sensorless combo - https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...030190/p279185
Got a deal on it with $15 off and it was eligible for free shipping, so couldn't turn it down. After exactly one week, it finally showed up, a day before race day (race day was yesterday). I've been going to local track that just started up about a year ago and it's less than 10min from my house.
Not a big track, but it's something. So Wednesday night I soldered the system together (eleven 12AWG joints) and set it up the next morning. I did some test runs and made a few programmable adjustments (of course I went through and programmed everything before that). The system runs a lot cooler, which everyone says the EZruns do, so I can stand for that. I really like how it's geared now (15/56 32P) it pulls wheelies all the way to full acceleration on a 2S and really hulls when pinned.
Last weekend I came up with a fix for stripped motor mounts. I'm on like my 4th one now and don't want to ruin anymore. It's the threads that the 3 bolts, which go through the gearbox, thread into. I seem to overtighten them in fear that they'll come loose, let the motor mount sag, which would change the gear mesh and probably toast a spur. But it's never happened. lol So I checked things over to make sure it would work. Here's what you need:
(3) M3 x 30mm Flathead/Countersink Machine Screws
(3) M3 Flat Washers
(3) M3 Locknuts
(1) Drill Press w/ Countersink Bit
All I did was run the countersink into the three holes on the spur-side of the motor mount plate, setting them all even using the drill press' depth limiter. The countersink also went deep enough to remove the old threads in the holes. Then I just pushed the M3 x 30mm flatheads through and put a washer and locknut on the back side, clamping the gearbox together.
I think it's a great fix. The only down side, is that you can't split the gearbox without removing the spur/slipper assembly, which I do anyway so I can also remove the motor mount while I'm working in the gearbox.
So last night I went to race at the track. Did some practice laps and then a couple of other guys, who have been there forever (one of the guys started the 'club'), came onto the track with their Axial Exos running 3S. They got competitive since I was putting in decent laps, unlike most of the others. All of sudden, we were in an all out race and the Badlands on my Evader (running 2S) just hooked up and dug into that damp track. It really drifted the corners well too, which I think was a big advantage over the 4WD Exo buggies. I ended up leading every lap and basically winning (there were no set number of laps). That was the first time I've ever even driven on a legit track. I guess all that backyard bashing and messing around finally amounted to something!
As far the Hobbywing system, it got a little hot near the end, but not bad. I think because it's such a small track and you are constantly accelerating, braking, punching it, etc so I need to drop a couple teeth on the pinion. I might change it just for race night though (we'll see how that delicate gear cover likes coming off once a week
) because I like the gearing for bashing, it's just perfect for every else I do with the truck outside of the track.
But yeah, had a great time the other night and thought I'd share that quick fix. (which is only good if your struggling with stripped motor mounts) What's everybody else up to?
On another note, my Velineon system in my main Evader has been acting up something fierce! I'm not sure if it's the known power button issue or what, but I decided to pull it after 4 years running strong. Keeping it as a backup or maybe drop it in another truck. I'd sell it, but I don't think anybody will pay money for something that's been abused 4 years straight.
To replace it, I bought the HobbyWing EZrun SC8 and 3400kv sensorless combo - https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...030190/p279185
Got a deal on it with $15 off and it was eligible for free shipping, so couldn't turn it down. After exactly one week, it finally showed up, a day before race day (race day was yesterday). I've been going to local track that just started up about a year ago and it's less than 10min from my house.
Not a big track, but it's something. So Wednesday night I soldered the system together (eleven 12AWG joints) and set it up the next morning. I did some test runs and made a few programmable adjustments (of course I went through and programmed everything before that). The system runs a lot cooler, which everyone says the EZruns do, so I can stand for that. I really like how it's geared now (15/56 32P) it pulls wheelies all the way to full acceleration on a 2S and really hulls when pinned.Last weekend I came up with a fix for stripped motor mounts. I'm on like my 4th one now and don't want to ruin anymore. It's the threads that the 3 bolts, which go through the gearbox, thread into. I seem to overtighten them in fear that they'll come loose, let the motor mount sag, which would change the gear mesh and probably toast a spur. But it's never happened. lol So I checked things over to make sure it would work. Here's what you need:
(3) M3 x 30mm Flathead/Countersink Machine Screws
(3) M3 Flat Washers
(3) M3 Locknuts
(1) Drill Press w/ Countersink Bit
All I did was run the countersink into the three holes on the spur-side of the motor mount plate, setting them all even using the drill press' depth limiter. The countersink also went deep enough to remove the old threads in the holes. Then I just pushed the M3 x 30mm flatheads through and put a washer and locknut on the back side, clamping the gearbox together.
I think it's a great fix. The only down side, is that you can't split the gearbox without removing the spur/slipper assembly, which I do anyway so I can also remove the motor mount while I'm working in the gearbox.
So last night I went to race at the track. Did some practice laps and then a couple of other guys, who have been there forever (one of the guys started the 'club'), came onto the track with their Axial Exos running 3S. They got competitive since I was putting in decent laps, unlike most of the others. All of sudden, we were in an all out race and the Badlands on my Evader (running 2S) just hooked up and dug into that damp track. It really drifted the corners well too, which I think was a big advantage over the 4WD Exo buggies. I ended up leading every lap and basically winning (there were no set number of laps). That was the first time I've ever even driven on a legit track. I guess all that backyard bashing and messing around finally amounted to something!
As far the Hobbywing system, it got a little hot near the end, but not bad. I think because it's such a small track and you are constantly accelerating, braking, punching it, etc so I need to drop a couple teeth on the pinion. I might change it just for race night though (we'll see how that delicate gear cover likes coming off once a week
) because I like the gearing for bashing, it's just perfect for every else I do with the truck outside of the track.But yeah, had a great time the other night and thought I'd share that quick fix. (which is only good if your struggling with stripped motor mounts) What's everybody else up to?
08-06-2016, 01:56 PM
#2431
...To replace it, I bought the HobbyWing EZrun SC8 and 3400kv sensorless combo - https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...030190/p279185
...Last weekend I came up with a fix for stripped motor mounts. I'm on like my 4th one now and don't want to ruin anymore. It's the threads that the 3 bolts, which go through the gearbox, thread into. I seem to overtighten them in fear that they'll come loose, let the motor mount sag, which would change the gear mesh and probably toast a spur. But it's never happened. lol So I checked things over to make sure it would work...
. Your solution looks great, and pretty slick. Should I ever need to do the same, I'd have to make due without a drill press. Whenever I take apart the Evader's tranny, I always burn off the old thread lock before using any more. When I bolt on the motor mount plate to the gearbox, I only ever snug the bolts down, and let the thread lock do it's job.
Last edited by RustyUs; 08-06-2016 at 03:43 PM.
08-06-2016, 05:46 PM
#2432
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Yeah, no doubt that 3400kv really rips those 5" Badlands.
I actually use the cheapest option, DTXC8270, because it looks like the same part. The part key # is the same (#96) but the 8274 that you use says it's 'Hard Anodized'. Maybe that's the big $8 difference. I never even thought of thread lock.
Man, I need more of that in my life. Between those two things, I could've avoided this, but I guess it's done. Definitely super strong, it'll just slightly change how I take the truck apart.
I actually use the cheapest option, DTXC8270, because it looks like the same part. The part key # is the same (#96) but the 8274 that you use says it's 'Hard Anodized'. Maybe that's the big $8 difference. I never even thought of thread lock.
Man, I need more of that in my life. Between those two things, I could've avoided this, but I guess it's done. Definitely super strong, it'll just slightly change how I take the truck apart.Sweet! Should be a solid setup turning them big Badlands.
Interesting. I've never had a motor plate strip before, but I use the DTXC8274 motor plate that came on the ST Pro. DieHarder, you're too strong. Your solution looks great, and pretty slick. Should I ever need to do the same, I'd have to make due without a drill press. Whenever I take apart the Evader's tranny, I always burn off the old thread lock before using any more. When I bolt on the motor mount plate to the gearbox, I only ever snug the bolts down, and let the thread lock do it's job.
Interesting. I've never had a motor plate strip before, but I use the DTXC8274 motor plate that came on the ST Pro. DieHarder, you're too strong
. Your solution looks great, and pretty slick. Should I ever need to do the same, I'd have to make due without a drill press. Whenever I take apart the Evader's tranny, I always burn off the old thread lock before using any more. When I bolt on the motor mount plate to the gearbox, I only ever snug the bolts down, and let the thread lock do it's job.
08-07-2016, 03:14 AM
#2433
The original Evader ST gearbox/CVDs/diff rebuild kit/thrust bearing has been on the discontinued list for quite sometime. I got thinking once again about selling off my spare ST Pro. I'll never get to using it at the rate I'm going with my current one. I know I might not get what I want for it, and then be forced to part out non essential items. My luck would be breaking my current graphite chassis while my "sold" graphite chassis is in someone else's hands 
. That's okay too, I guess. Knowing it's getting used is a good feeling also. In the past couple of months I've sold two Evader ST trannies; one was a ST Pro, and the other one was a standard ST tranny. Not looking to make any money off the sales; I got what I paid for them, that was good enough for me.
An item I came across, that made me chuckle, was a listing for a complete Evader Brushless tranny...$98.95
. Oh, but it has special lube from Germany 
. What the heck? I'll give the dude a pat on the back for the fact that they took the time to swap out the screws for hex head ones, and lube/re-lube diff, but I'd have to be almost "committed" to pay the asking price. I am pretty sure the others that were sold (six others) went for much less than this last one.
The Duratrax Evader ST/EXT drama continues. Which reminds me...I need to go to garage and charge some packs up for today's Evader/Yeti runs.
Shut it Rusty. Get out there and throw some dirt!
. That's okay too, I guess. Knowing it's getting used is a good feeling also. In the past couple of months I've sold two Evader ST trannies; one was a ST Pro, and the other one was a standard ST tranny. Not looking to make any money off the sales; I got what I paid for them, that was good enough for me. An item I came across, that made me chuckle, was a listing for a complete Evader Brushless tranny...$98.95
. Oh, but it has special lube from Germany . What the heck? I'll give the dude a pat on the back for the fact that they took the time to swap out the screws for hex head ones, and lube/re-lube diff, but I'd have to be almost "committed" to pay the asking price. I am pretty sure the others that were sold (six others) went for much less than this last one. The Duratrax Evader ST/EXT drama continues. Which reminds me...I need to go to garage and charge some packs up for today's Evader/Yeti runs.
Shut it Rusty. Get out there and throw some dirt!
08-07-2016, 06:22 AM
#2434
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Yeah, I saw that one on eBay when I was looking for the BL diff. I agree that it's way overpriced (it's only like $45-50 if built in parts, bearings and hardware included) but I have heard the same 'special lube from Germany' advertising on some other stuff. I think it's some sort of really high grade bearing grease that's supposed to last longer than any other bearing grease out there, and apparently it's made in Germany. 
Idk, personally I do fine with the free bearing grease that my neighbor gets from his workplace.
Idk, personally I do fine with the free bearing grease that my neighbor gets from his workplace.An item I came across, that made me chuckle, was a listing for a complete Evader Brushless tranny...$98.95 . Oh, but it has special lube from Germany . What the heck? I'll give the dude a pat on the back for the fact that they took the time to swap out the screws for hex head ones, and lube/re-lube diff, but I'd have to be almost "committed" to pay the asking price. I am pretty sure the others that were sold (six others) went for much less than this last one.
. Oh, but it has special lube from Germany . What the heck? I'll give the dude a pat on the back for the fact that they took the time to swap out the screws for hex head ones, and lube/re-lube diff, but I'd have to be almost "committed" to pay the asking price. I am pretty sure the others that were sold (six others) went for much less than this last one.
10-14-2016, 04:32 PM
#2435
After throwing on some new rear tires, I realized my servo is lazy feeling. Haha. It's a RTR Associated XP that replaced my normal "go to" Hitec servos. The XP DS1903MG servo is great for what it is...a slow, adequate, bushing, metal gear RTR servo. I'm surprised the XP servo lasted this long. Needless to say, after two years of use, it's getting ripped out of the Evader this weekend.
10-16-2016, 01:33 PM
#2436
Well the Alturn USA servo swap didn't go quite as planned. That servo turned out to be a dud. Alturn USA will not be apart of my fan base.
Having neglected the Evader ST over the past summer, she got the ultimate treatment in the servo department. My favorite servo is making it's way into the old Duratrax chassis. The Associated XP DS1015 servo will be overkill, but it's the least I can do to try and make up with my old faithful stadium truck.
Having neglected the Evader ST over the past summer, she got the ultimate treatment in the servo department. My favorite servo is making it's way into the old Duratrax chassis. The Associated XP DS1015 servo will be overkill, but it's the least I can do to try and make up with my old faithful stadium truck
.
10-16-2016, 03:07 PM
#2437
Doing what I haven't done in a very long time...putting the Evader through two back to back battery packs. With new rubber, new old stock LiPo packs, and new servo onboard, the motor was becoming very warm as I called it a night; headed indoors to sofa.
While I was running the ST, I had the throttle EPA set to 100%. That's another rare occurrence. I'm not sure if "el cheap-o" motor is getting tired, or the new rubber/servo is to be held accountable for the Evader handling loose terrain better.
While I was running the ST, I had the throttle EPA set to 100%. That's another rare occurrence. I'm not sure if "el cheap-o" motor is getting tired, or the new rubber/servo is to be held accountable for the Evader handling loose terrain better.
10-29-2016, 04:47 PM
#2439
Searched and searched for gears I knew I had...bag of pinion gears that haven't seen the light of day since the 90's. Swapped out the 87T spur for a 75T. The Evader ST is a whole different critter now with the right gearing and the Leopard Hobby motor. Running a 24T pinion is the smallest one I can use and being able to get the right gear mesh. Probably a tad too fast for most days at the track, but tonight's damp dirt gave extra traction.
I almost didn't think the 2550kv motor was going to be to my liking. The ST front end tries to come off the ground a bit with help from bumps, but I can't get it to wheelie on command. The Leopard sensored motor, being ran sensorless, was reaching 160°F after the 15 minute run. So far so good. I wait for my 23T pinion to come in the mail which will be ran with 81T spur.
I almost didn't think the 2550kv motor was going to be to my liking. The ST front end tries to come off the ground a bit with help from bumps, but I can't get it to wheelie on command. The Leopard sensored motor, being ran sensorless, was reaching 160°F after the 15 minute run. So far so good. I wait for my 23T pinion to come in the mail which will be ran with 81T spur.
10-31-2016, 09:05 AM
#2440
Overdue
I finally got around to putting an end (hopefully) to my ST Pro's rear suspension arm mount loosening issue. For years I've put up with just one of the four screws that holds the left and right mounts to the rear chassis plate. It had become one of my weekly rituals...check that darn screw! Well, today and 15 minutes of my time fixed it for good.
I cut down a 3x18mm screw to about 14mm, and put a lock nut on the other side. Eeezy-peezy, right? Almost. I had to grind away a bit of gearbox to get the nut to fit. I guess why I never got around to doing it, just plain lazy. The screw was too simple to tighten every week.
Edit/Added note: I just snugged down the lock nut. My luck will now be to watch that suspension arm crack and fail.
I cut down a 3x18mm screw to about 14mm, and put a lock nut on the other side. Eeezy-peezy, right? Almost. I had to grind away a bit of gearbox to get the nut to fit. I guess why I never got around to doing it, just plain lazy. The screw was too simple to tighten every week.
Edit/Added note: I just snugged down the lock nut. My luck will now be to watch that suspension arm crack and fail
.
Last edited by RustyUs; 10-31-2016 at 09:12 AM.
11-05-2016, 04:52 PM
#2441
Show me your teeth!
While I had the shocks off; rebuilding them, I thought I may as well clean them darn outdrive bearings. I'm always amazed when I open the gearbox up and see the gears haven't change much since converting the tranny in 2011.
I'm trying to figure out where I got this latest set of bearings. I should of taken a picture of them, 'cause underneath the thin rubber seal/shield is a metal shield...weird. I tore one of the rubber-ish outer shields and left the others alone. Soaked them in an oil bath, then reinstalled. I'm off to check my purchase history.
I'm trying to figure out where I got this latest set of bearings. I should of taken a picture of them, 'cause underneath the thin rubber seal/shield is a metal shield...weird. I tore one of the rubber-ish outer shields and left the others alone. Soaked them in an oil bath, then reinstalled. I'm off to check my purchase history.
Last edited by RustyUs; 11-05-2016 at 04:55 PM.
03-21-2017, 04:38 PM
#2442
Sealed Diff?
Well, I think the years of abuse have taken it's toll on the o-rings and the outdrives that they ride on...
I gotta little seepage issue. Not a complete empty diff. Mmm, maybe half the fluid has leaked out? Surprisingly, the diff felt great before I took it apart, and cleaned everything. After I filled it with grease, I immediately felt a looser action. I'll just see how things go for the next couple of months before filling with fluid again.
I gotta little seepage issue. Not a complete empty diff. Mmm, maybe half the fluid has leaked out? Surprisingly, the diff felt great before I took it apart, and cleaned everything. After I filled it with grease, I immediately felt a looser action. I'll just see how things go for the next couple of months before filling with fluid again.
03-26-2017, 09:28 AM
#2443
Little Help?
Eh. I should have measured the o-rings when I had the diff apart. I just didn't think to do so then . Now that I've cleaned/rebuilt the shocks/tranny, I don't have it in me to go through disassembly again.
I went to Duratrax via the www and their email support...nothing. My email got returned to me stating undeliverable to Duratrax's email address. The discontinuation of the Assembled Differential, and the Diff Gear and Case Set tosses up the question where to get o-rings. Hoping someone there (at Duratrax) would have an answer about the o-ring size used in the diff, but that's a no-go for me.
Just in case someone is happening to read this, and taking apart their gear diff, please measure the o-ring inside for me. Or maybe someone knows, off the top of their head, the o-ring size. If not, I'll get 'er next time I open 'er up .
. Now that I've cleaned/rebuilt the shocks/tranny, I don't have it in me to go through disassembly again.I went to Duratrax via the www and their email support...nothing. My email got returned to me stating undeliverable to Duratrax's email address
. The discontinuation of the Assembled Differential, and the Diff Gear and Case Set tosses up the question where to get o-rings. Hoping someone there (at Duratrax) would have an answer about the o-ring size used in the diff, but that's a no-go for me.Just in case someone is happening to read this, and taking apart their gear diff, please measure the o-ring inside for me
. Or maybe someone knows, off the top of their head, the o-ring size. If not, I'll get 'er next time I open 'er up .
04-03-2017, 06:05 AM
#2444
The sun being out, and temps above 50°F, I put the Evader out on the track for my first official run of season. The sound is a little off from normal, and I'm guessing a bearing is about to go (in motor), or gear mesh is a tad off from using receipt paper to gap the pinion/spur gears. Maybe even a combination of the two. I just ran the crap out of the truck and will worry about any issues during the next pack being put in.
The motor was not having enough umph to my liking. After done running the pack down, I went to garage and found the punch was set to "1" (lowest setting) for my hotter motors that don't get used too much any more. I'll definitely have to bump the punch setting up to see if I can gain a little bit more excitement from the 2550kV motor.
I'm not sure yet about the shocks sealing well with the new x-rings being used. Some dirt has collected around the shocks; is sticking to oil from either not cleaning the shocks completely (after rebuild), or oil leaking out around the new seals. I'm still on the lookout for bulk silicone x-rings in the 50 durometer range that don't cost fifty cents each (if you only knew how hard this task is/was).
The motor was not having enough umph to my liking. After done running the pack down, I went to garage and found the punch was set to "1" (lowest setting) for my hotter motors that don't get used too much any more. I'll definitely have to bump the punch setting up to see if I can gain a little bit more excitement from the 2550kV motor.
I'm not sure yet about the shocks sealing well with the new x-rings being used. Some dirt has collected around the shocks; is sticking to oil from either not cleaning the shocks completely (after rebuild), or oil leaking out around the new seals
. I'm still on the lookout for bulk silicone x-rings in the 50 durometer range that don't cost fifty cents each (if you only knew how hard this task is/was).
04-03-2017, 09:53 AM
#2445
Stripped gearbox screw holes where it mounts to chassis plate. 4-40 threads < 3mm (not by much) so I just cut some M3x20mm screws down to length. Screws are biting on something and they're holding for now.
Back in action.
I never could understand why some companies used a hodgepodge of screw sizes i.e. SAE, and metric screws used on the same RC platform. #Dumb backwards redneck
Back in action.
I never could understand why some companies used a hodgepodge of screw sizes i.e. SAE, and metric screws used on the same RC platform
. #Dumb backwards redneck
Last edited by RustyUs; 04-03-2017 at 11:19 AM.
04-16-2017, 05:13 AM
#2446
Left rear shock is acting up. Apart from my not-so-great-idea seals not working out, the shaft/piston will stick up in the shock body after some normal bumps-n-jumps. What's weird is, the shaft is straight (after checking during rebuild), and I can not replicate the shaft/piston getting stuck when working the shock by hand, and mounted on the truck.
This has become a real head-scratcher for me, and I wait for shipment of softer o-rings to show up.
This has become a real head-scratcher for me, and I wait for shipment of softer o-rings to show up.
04-17-2017, 01:06 PM
#2447
Went to the track, and only one lap around, I had a stuck shock again.
I can now replicate issue by throwing (actually dropping) the truck to the ground from a distance of about three feet. I physically extend the shock with some force, and the shock returns to normal operation.
I'm going back to the box stock setup for the shock positioning on the rear, and see if my current "laid down" positioning is causing piston to somehow find a spot on the shock body to grab on to. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll try a new piston.
I can now replicate issue by throwing (actually dropping) the truck to the ground from a distance of about three feet. I physically extend the shock with some force, and the shock returns to normal operation.
I'm going back to the box stock setup for the shock positioning on the rear, and see if my current "laid down" positioning is causing piston to somehow find a spot on the shock body to grab on to. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll try a new piston.
04-21-2017, 02:19 PM
#2448
New piston not needed. What was needed...new bottom E-clip 
. The middle section of E-clip was not able ride in the shock shaft groove. This allowed the piston to teeter a bit on the shaft during a hard hit.
. The middle section of E-clip was not able ride in the shock shaft groove. This allowed the piston to teeter a bit on the shaft during a hard hit.
06-08-2017, 04:22 PM
#2450
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Welcome to the boards. TBone bumpers are the way to go. They are tough and will save you a lot of broken suspension arms. Plus they have a lifetime warranty. Break one and all you have to do is send them a photo of the broken part and they ship you a replacement. https://tboneracing.net/Evader-EXT-E...-Pro_c_66.html