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The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

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Old 06-21-2018, 09:54 PM
  #2526  
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When im trying to set the pinion gear with spur, it keeps having a loud whining noise - even if i move the pinion a bit loose or tight it still makes this bad noise. Im not sure how to overcome this it doesn't seem right? Could it be something internal like a diff?
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Old 06-22-2018, 05:36 AM
  #2527  
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My first thought is your slipper plates are too loose, and is the cause of the "whining". Other noises made from a RC are harsher sounding. The mesh between the pinion and spur gear should allow you to rock the spur gear back, and forth the tiniest bit. People often use paper
to set the mesh. It's mentioned in a lot of Duratrax's Evader manuals, but often there are no drawings/pictures of it being done.

If you set the mesh correctly; the slipper is tightened down, and you got an obnoxious noise coming from the tranny...then you probably have a diff that needs rebuilt. There is also that possibility of idler gear and/or top shaft wearing out. You won't know until you open up the gearbox. I've had bearings blow on the outdrives, and the debris caused havoc with teeth on tranny's gears.

If your noise situation comes down to you finding nothing wrong with tranny's visible gears, then, depending on what diff is being used (ball diff, or gear diff), there are simple remedies to try to alleviate a worn diff's internal components.

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Old 06-22-2018, 05:40 AM
  #2528  
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I agree, it's probably the slipper clutch being too loose. If the diff was an issue, it would be making more of a grinding noise.
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Old 06-28-2018, 06:40 AM
  #2529  
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I made a little video of the problem - easier to show it. i'm not really sure what is going on but the noise sounds pretty bad. Any help is much appreciated. Mesh seems good, slipper is pretty tight as you can see

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Old 06-28-2018, 12:52 PM
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Hard to tell anything about the slipper, since the wheels weren't on the ground. What concerns me, other than the noise, is how the wheels are behaving. Somethin' ain't right there. Off the ground like that, both wheels ought to be turning at the same time, and especially in the same direction! I think something is amiss with the differential and or the tranny. Gotta open it up and have a look.

​​​​​As for the noise, it's still hard to tell. Kinda sounds like a motor issue...bearings, rotor...possibly a flaky motor wire connection at the ESC or in the motor. BTW, what motor are we talking about? Justa thought, you may have broken a drive cup pin inside the diff. That's something to consider. In any case, sounds like it's time to open the tranny, inspect the gears and bearings, and open the diff to inspect and relube it's internals, check for the broken pin behind the big sun gears in the diff. Inspect the planetary gears for wear. They should be pyramid shaped, not looking like turbocharger blades.
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Old 06-28-2018, 02:54 PM
  #2531  
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Motor is a new titan12T. Well RIP I havent opened up a tranny before. Fingers crossed, donít really know where to begin but iíll give it a go. Thanks

also what kind of lube should be used for the internal diff? Could i just use some multipurpose automotive/industrial

I have this^ at home (lithium grease)
grease or plumbers grease? I dont wanna go and buy specific lube. Cheers again

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Old 06-28-2018, 08:18 PM
  #2532  
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No worries. Opening the tranny is no big deal. Thing you have to be careful of is when putting the three screws that hold the tranny together and to the motor plate, is that your are careful not to strip out the motor plate threads. Use thread lock on them. If you don't have thread lock, use nail polish.

The tranny isn't complicated. Once you take the two halves apart, you'll see immediately what's going on and how things go together. If it's never been serviced before, just be sure to check each gear's bearings to make sure they're turning free and smooth. Usually, the top two gears bearings are fine, as they stay sealed in the tranny case. The bearings on either side of the differential are a little more susceptible to getting dirty and gritty. Clean or replace as necessary.

To get the diff bearings off, you have to take the diff apart. Use the right size Phillips screwdriver. You don't want to strip those little screw heads. Take the four screws out and open the diff. Behind the big round gear is the diff output cup retaining pin. Check it for wear or if it's broken. Check behind the other one too. Once the big gears and pins are out, the drive cups and bearings can be removed. The planetary gears as I said should be pyramid shaped. If they look like a turbo fan, it's worn out and could be slipping. That usually causes a grinding sound tho. Just reverse the disassembly process. I suggest having a towel on the floor in case you drop anything, it doesn't go far. I also use a small towel on my work surface.

Are y using the Traxxas slipper clutch with the Titan motor? Make sure there's no interference at the back of the slipper and the motor plate.

Lithium grease I think is a little too light and would require more frequent maintenance. Any good black moly grease will work if you don't want to get a RC grease. Give the gears a light coat when reassembling, and fill the diff with it too.

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Old 06-28-2018, 08:55 PM
  #2533  
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I opened it up pretty simple, can't really find any wear
Wait am I suppose to fill the diff with silicone oil or the same lithium grease that needs to be put on the outside of the diff (the edges)



everything seems good no wear here^


do i put in silicon oil (i have some thrust bearing grease too) or do i put in the lithium grease in here?


also nah im not using traxxas slipper clutch. Its all stock just titan 12t esc combo lol

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Old 06-29-2018, 12:00 AM
  #2534  
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I'm missing these 3 pieces. Would this be why it's causing the spur gear to move slightly side to side and causing the whining noise?
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Old 06-29-2018, 02:45 AM
  #2535  
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Originally Posted by HOskitz View Post
I opened it up pretty simple, can't really find any wear
Wait am I suppose to fill the diff with silicone oil or the same lithium grease that needs to be put on the outside of the diff (the edges)



everything seems good no wear here^


do i put in silicon oil (i have some thrust bearing grease too) or do i put in the lithium grease in here?


also nah im not using traxxas slipper clutch. Its all stock just titan 12t esc combo lol
The EXT diff is not a sealed diff. Putting oil in it is basically useless. Grease only. I don't know how old those bushings are, but that's one area (bushing < bearings) of the truck I'd be upgrading first. Bushings only last so long, and will develop signs of wear over time. Installing bearings, in place of the bushings, will increase performance greatly.

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Old 06-29-2018, 03:14 AM
  #2536  
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The video doesn't seem to show all that bad of a noise IMO. If anything, to me, it sounds like a super tight mesh, combined with binding somewhere. Some spur gears tend to have slight inconsistencies with being true. The top shaft may have a slight tweak to it, combined with worn out bushings, resulting in proper mesh being difficult to set. I don't know. I'd be checking the rear hubs for debris in the bushings. Better yet, replace the bushings with bearings.
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Old 06-29-2018, 07:00 AM
  #2537  
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Oh god yes, replace those bushings with bearings! Man, that must be an old tranny! The gear teeth look fine. Clean out all the old grease. Use some black grease on the gears and in the diff. Lithium grease is too thin. Trak Power blue waterproof grease is the best, and a little tub will last you years.

on those missing parts .. first I thought you were missing the screws! But I see it's the lock washers. It could be that those screws, without the washers, are poking out the back of the slipper plate and not allowing the plates and clutch pad to mate properly. Check for that. Also, the brass bushing that fits into the spur gear wears out and needs replacement eventually. It does sound like the pinion spur mesh is tight.
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Old 06-29-2018, 02:56 PM
  #2538  
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Hahahah well I did buy the truck used. Yea gonna have to replace bushings to bearings asap. More $$$ oh well itíll be worth it. Thanks alot boys
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:06 PM
  #2539  
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Im reading some of the earlier pages of the thread. This thread has been going for a long time lol. Feels like im keeping it alive 😢.
Do u guys still have evaders? If so/not how come and whats been happening??

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Old 06-29-2018, 04:48 PM
  #2540  
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Yeah, a looooooong time! The site at one point had to cut off the original and start a Part 2 of the thread because it had gotten so big and was taking up site resources or something.

But the Evader is old. It was my first RC, and at that time, it had been around for years already. One of the longest lasting platforms. But even a new Brushless model couldn't keep the Duratrax brand going. Although the brushless model differential became a hot item for about a year or so! It had an all metal housing. Really took care of the diff stripping problem people were having when installing huge motors in the light little car. The Evader, and the Duratrax brand was discontinued a couple years ago.

A lot of things like bearings are standard type items and available. But Evader specific parts are getting scarce. Your best bet is to find another (more updated) car as a parts car.

Oh and yeah, I still have my Evader. I don't run it much. Just once in a while to remind me what 2wd feels like. 😀 It's still in good shape, but it's mostly a shelf queen now. I have a Tamiya Subaru rally car body on it. It cost half as much as the original Evader. I found a little Hobbywing brushless system was perfect for the car. Plllenty of power and speed, 40 mph and wheelie on demand. My buddy and I are running HoBao Hyper TT and SCT 4wd cars now.

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Old 06-30-2018, 03:01 AM
  #2541  
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Some parts are harder to find for the tranny, like the diff housing, but the internal bevel gears, idler gear, top shaft, and output joints are readily available.

Another thing to check, that could be your issue, is the motor mounting plate. It is made of a softer metal and can get tweaked during a harsh off balanced landing. I've never had an issue with the motor mounting plate, but others have in the past.

If you get the EXT up and running like you want, then (like EXT2Rob mentioned) you might want to look at tracking down a DTXC7340 Duratrax Differential Gear/Case Evader EXT for future use. That part is the hardest to come by IMO. Finding a complete DTXC7338 Gear Diff Assembled is next to impossible .
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Old 06-30-2018, 03:11 AM
  #2542  
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To be honest HOskitz, I hate to say it, I would not put a lot of money into your EXT. If cleaning up the platform; checking for tweaked components, and installing bearings don't remedy what you want to hear from the driveline...sell it. My thinking is, if you do get the EXT up and running like you want, you are going to want more speed and power. The EXT is not the platform to be trying to upgrade at this point in time. Back in the day? Yeah, it had lots of options. Noadays? Mild motors is all I would recommend for the almost extinct truck .

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Old 06-30-2018, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by RustyUs View Post
To be honest HOskitz, I hate to say it, I would not put a lot of money into your EXT. If cleaning up the platform; checking for tweaked components, and installing bearings don't remedy what you want to hear from the driveline...sell it. My thinking is, if you do get the EXT up and running like you want, you are going to want more speed and power. The EXT is not the platform to be trying to upgrade at this point in time. Back in the day? Yeah, it had lots of options. Noadays? Mild motors is all I would recommend for the almost extinct truck .
Youíre right, platform is old, part support sucks and im still a beginner in the RC world . Iíll try not to sink in alot of money cos if something happens like diff breaks im 99% screwed. Maybe I will look into a new platform such as the new revised rustler xl-5. Iv actually seen a good deal on it. Can that car run any type of brushless system straight out of the box (brushless ready)? & is it all metal tranny gears? And opinions on the 1/16 Traxxas e-revo / summit? I sorta like the fun out of a small 4wd car but all my spares such as electronics/wheels etc are all 10th scale

Honestly Traxxas would be so much better and less of a headache and durability wise better. Probably should of known earlier but oh well. Haha... I always thought Traxxas is some overpriced thing but buying 2nd hand new or hardly used would be a good deal now... if i do get a traxxas i swear im gonna stick to the car as in my main RC

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Old 07-01-2018, 09:10 AM
  #2544  
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Honestly, I can't, or won't, ever again recommend a Traxxass RC car. Their recent suing/patent trolling is just plain idiotic and ruthless. I used to have respect for Traxxas. Not any more. Sorry.
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Old 07-01-2018, 10:21 AM
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After running the ST Pro in the 95įF heat, I gave everything a lookover for missing/loose parts. A set screw was missing from the steering knuckle. Something interesting that I have never seen in all the years that I have owned the Evader... the M3 set screws, for the kingpins/steering knuckles, are only used on the ST Pro. Only thing I can see the set screw doing is keeping the kingpin from moving if you lose an E-clip.


ST Pro


ST


EXT
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Old 07-01-2018, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RustyUs View Post
Honestly, I can't, or won't, ever again recommend a Traxxass RC car. Their recent suing/patent trolling is just plain idiotic and ruthless. I used to have respect for Traxxas. Not any more. Sorry.
Oh... right I haven't heard of this. Wow Traxxas
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:06 AM
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If you go ahead and Yahoo! Traxxas vs Hobbico, you will find tons of opinions. I've owned two great Traxxas RC kits in the past. I would have bought another Traxxas kit (if they ever produced another desirable kit) in the future, but now they have tarnished their name, IMO. Traxxass' prices are not that great for what you get. Again, my opinion.

My Duratrax Evader ST Pro was a used RC purchase for my daughter to get her feet wet. Our Evader was on eBay, it had only been used a handful of times, and it had one of those price tags too good to pass up. So, I jumped on it. I'm sure if the Duratrax Evader did not show up at doorstep, I would have been looking for a Traxxas Rustler, or, better yet, a HPI Firestorm for my daughter. But that was then. I claimed the ST Pro as my own RC after daughter lost interest in the RC hobby. I fought with the Evader tranny for years; tried to put 15T brushed motor power through it, but gave up after stripping tons of diff/idler gears (ball diff only option back then). The Evader Brushless edition came along and saved my truck from being auctioned off cheap.

Now that the bulletproof Evader Brushless tranny parts are gone from shelves, anyone buying a Evader series of car or truck should be cautious with power plants. The EXT gear diff is a big leap ahead of earlier Duratrax Evader ball diffs, in terms of how much power it can handle. I don't exactly know the limits for the EXT diff.
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Old 07-02-2018, 10:03 AM
  #2548  
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Originally Posted by RustyUs View Post
Honestly, I can't, or won't, ever again recommend a Traxxass RC car. Their recent suing/patent trolling is just plain idiotic and ruthless. I used to have respect for Traxxas. Not any more. Sorry.
I hear ya, Rusty. I think what Traxxas is doing is wrong too. They must be getting desperate, although I can't imagine why. They are the 300lb gorilla. But that doesn't mean they should get away with doing what they're doing. If we all took a few minutes and wrote them an email saying how much we DETEST what they're doing to the industry, and that we won't buy, or recommend, their products until they stop being *******s and harassing other companies, maybe they'd get a clue.

THe only reason I suggested the Rustler to the guy was it was one he was interested in, where the other two he mentioned, I knew nothing about.
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:24 AM
  #2549  
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How cold is too cold?
Servo saver too tight?

I've been plagued with snow/cold temps for so long. I was very eager to get out and play with my toys. Had a great few days of above 40*F temps. That's about as cold as I can stand to be driving RCs without gloves on.

All of the years of owning the Evader, I've never broke a bellcrank. Well, today I would like to say the colder air was the sole cause of my Evader ST's bellcrank snapping, but a wicked-gnarly cartwheel probably put the breakage into action.

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Old 03-24-2019, 04:29 PM
  #2550  
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Threw a new servo saver/steering rack on and all's good now. I have a few spares coming, because this is one part I overlooked during my hoarding. There are three part #'s for servo savers/bellcranks. They all had the Duratrax Stress-Tech guarantee, and they all use the same servo saver shaft/hub/spring. Weird. The EXT, and original Evader ST steering rack... I can't tell what is different about them, but the ST Pro's high rate steering rack is visually different.

If I was not able to find some spares, I was about to attempt an ECX steering rack transplant. That was one thought I had as the ECX uses 3mm shafts for their 2wd RCs.

As for the busted lower servo saver arm, I kept it and did a CA glue/baking soda mending job on it so I could have it as a spare. Not sure how much it will take to snap the repair. I'll test the repair once the new steering breaks.
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