Guys, I've been running a Castle Sidewinder V2 5700kv system in my Vader since Summer. It's crazy powerful. I'm not stripping out my top gear anymore. But IWAS stripping them out with the STOCKPHOTON. Must've gone thru at least three. The only thing Ican figure is that back then Iwas running mostly on grass. Now as I've gotten better, gotten faster, and am running in a different area where we;ve pretty well worn most of the greenery away, we;re running on dirt.....tires spin more easily, less strain on the 'train. (but more wear on the rubber!) I've been beating the crap out of this car pretty much every day AND MY TRANNY ISSUES ARE NIL.
CUMMINSDRIVER, Isaw your video - pullin' wheelies on asphalt = tranny dammage, if done too much. No matter what car you have. These suckers are tough, but they ain't indestructable! Grass apparently also is a little harder on the drive train. DON'T GIVE UP ON THE EVADER. I was beginning to wonder myself about DTX quality, but I'm beginning to think it was mostly my bad driving and over-zealous use of the throttle in the wrong situations. Now I'm running this crazy 5700kv motor, GPS-clocked at over 40mph and no problems.
Sure, I've made upgrades and replaced parts (LOSI makes a nice ball/nut that screws on to a 3/8 4-40 hex head screw to replace those pulled-out stockers)
But that's been part of the journey, learning about these things as they need replacing. Oh, DOGBONES, I'm hear to tell ya - they WILL wear out under BL power!
I've been waiting months for those DTX CVDs to get back in stock!! Ialso recently TWISTEDINHALF one of my drive axles. So Ireally need those CVDs!! But like Isaid, I've been beating on this car since last Xmas, almost every day!! I'll bet no one else here can say that. And brushless LiPo since summer.
I'm glad it looks like DTX has made some well-thought upgrades to the new BL edition. I'll be getting a new metal diff when they come out. Will proabaly need it when Iput on my new PL Gladiators. I've been running the Dirt Hawg IIs and they're a good all-around truck tire, but seemed like Ineeded a little more traction in the dirt my "track" is becoming and my LHS guy lead me to the Gladiators. Yeah I've stripped a few diffs, but diff cases are cheap, and easy to fix. probably was running the slipper to tight.
Been running a 17T pinion with an 87T Associated spur. Still had so much flippin torque Ihad a hard time controling the car coming out of turns. Finally got the Castle-Link dongle so as to make use of the ESC programability. Torque Control turned out to be very useful. Dialed that back and now the car is much more controlable, and recovers more easily from getting tail-happy (which is still does if one is too impatient - one must go slow to go fast, Grasshoppah!) The gearing, with the Torque Control still give it PLENTYof torque, and the top end is still there, so, low speed control with considerable top-end, much more than you'll ever need around a course (Irarely get above half- to 3/4-throttle, but can, if Iwanna pull a wheelie!) Idid get an IRtemp sensor, and monitored my motor temps over the summer. The gearing Ihave seems to have worked pretty well over the hot California Summer. I'm gonna guess the new BL Vader, using a 24T pinion, is a little over-geared.
OH, and +1 on those EZRUN B2 Combos from HobbyPartz!! My buddy has one and I'm DYING to get my hands on one for the wife's car. Ithink it's the 35A ESC with the Blue-Finned motor - 4200kV? - or 3900? Anyway, GREAT little unit for the price and drives much easier than my admitedly over-powered 5700kv SV2.
Oh and one more thing before Isign off: You guys that'r up-grading your EXT2s with any brushless system......you'll soon be needing to replace the stock steering servo, cuz it'll be stripped out. Get one of these, if you can find them in stock: http://www.hobbypartz.com/servo-mg946r.html
Cheap, strong, and center well, fast enough, hard to beat for $12.
It seems to me, the key to durability, like everything else, is up-keep. I run my car ALOT. So, about every two weeks, or if it "sounds like it needs it", I'll crack open the tranny and inspect and re-lube (THEY COME FROM THE FACTORY WOEFULLY UNDER-GREASED). Aluminum is for cans, not for gears.