The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
01-10-2013, 06:37 PM
#1101
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Well, nobody has to post on here once they buy one. Once they get it, it's indistructable and they don't break things. (Except maybe bumbers and wheelie bars) They never have a serious problem so they have no need to make an account here.
01-10-2013, 06:57 PM
#1102
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Ya Know I got some of that Parma stuff at Hobbytown and I had the darndest time getting the backing off of both sides. And my ESCSTILL came off. Must not have been clean enough.
My kid used to reallybash the snot out of his. He would break it andIfigured it was alearning experience. I think finally with his LIPObat, slick bodyshell,my constant reminder that just bc there is "wide open" it does not mean you have to use it . . . . . and probably a ton of mental development, he may be over the hump.Inever had too much trouble breaking mine.
Rememberall the guys that got on this board with trucks thatthey thought were the real deal, and the put brushless systems and smoked the trannys in minutes? They would get on the board all excited and finally just leavedisappointed.
Then there wasLug with his site about how to fix these things, he had all sorts of people, me included submitting stuff to fix the evader. . . . . my contention was that you really had to liketo tinker to make an Evader on par with anything else . . .. . .. but it was doable.
Pretty funny actually.
DTX really came a long way with these trucks.
NTR
My kid used to reallybash the snot out of his. He would break it andIfigured it was alearning experience. I think finally with his LIPObat, slick bodyshell,my constant reminder that just bc there is "wide open" it does not mean you have to use it . . . . . and probably a ton of mental development, he may be over the hump.Inever had too much trouble breaking mine.
Rememberall the guys that got on this board with trucks thatthey thought were the real deal, and the put brushless systems and smoked the trannys in minutes? They would get on the board all excited and finally just leavedisappointed.
Then there wasLug with his site about how to fix these things, he had all sorts of people, me included submitting stuff to fix the evader. . . . . my contention was that you really had to liketo tinker to make an Evader on par with anything else . . .. . .. but it was doable.
Pretty funny actually.
DTX really came a long way with these trucks.
NTR
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
Hey DH, yeah, I was just ribbing you.
But seriously, yer right, you should stretch more before you run if you're pulling that achillies a lot. AND stretch AFTERWARDS too. Be careful, mate!
Howdy NTR! Glad you an your son are having fun with your Evaders. Funny how the repairs go down the better you get at driving, huh? <wink wink=""></wink> We noticed the same thing. Still, thinking back on the days when we were running bone stock, I'm at a loss to explain why we were ruining so many Top Gears, and now we're on Brushless/LiPo power, no tranny problems whatsoever. (Well except for the plastic Diff gear, till we got metal ones) ESC mounting....I just use double-sided tape, no strap or anything. But using the RIGHT tape is the key. I don't remember the brand I get (or if it has one. Losi maybe?) but the material is a silicone membrane, sticky on both sides. As long as you clean both surfaces with alcohol, and try not to touch the sticky stuff, it holds like mad. I just called my LHS....it's PARMA PRO SERVO TAPE. Here ya go....
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...tape&search=Go
Thanks for the pic comments. I really am lucky: not only do I have my own RC racetrack (that I DIDN'T have to build), but a wife who supports my enjoyment of the hobby. (She even let me order $150 in parts yesterday! God, I love her!)
BTW, an amazing thing happened yesterday..... Iwas out running my car on the track, and a Red Tailed Hawk swooped down to check it out! Not once, but TWICE. And the second time, it followed the car all the way up the straighaway about four feet above the car and about 5 feet away from me! It was SOCOOL!!!
Hey DH, yeah, I was just ribbing you.
But seriously, yer right, you should stretch more before you run if you're pulling that achillies a lot. AND stretch AFTERWARDS too. Be careful, mate!Howdy NTR! Glad you an your son are having fun with your Evaders. Funny how the repairs go down the better you get at driving, huh? <wink wink=""></wink> We noticed the same thing. Still, thinking back on the days when we were running bone stock, I'm at a loss to explain why we were ruining so many Top Gears, and now we're on Brushless/LiPo power, no tranny problems whatsoever. (Well except for the plastic Diff gear, till we got metal ones) ESC mounting....I just use double-sided tape, no strap or anything. But using the RIGHT tape is the key. I don't remember the brand I get (or if it has one. Losi maybe?) but the material is a silicone membrane, sticky on both sides. As long as you clean both surfaces with alcohol, and try not to touch the sticky stuff, it holds like mad. I just called my LHS....it's PARMA PRO SERVO TAPE. Here ya go....
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...tape&search=Go
Thanks for the pic comments. I really am lucky: not only do I have my own RC racetrack (that I DIDN'T have to build), but a wife who supports my enjoyment of the hobby. (She even let me order $150 in parts yesterday! God, I love her!)
BTW, an amazing thing happened yesterday..... Iwas out running my car on the track, and a Red Tailed Hawk swooped down to check it out! Not once, but TWICE. And the second time, it followed the car all the way up the straighaway about four feet above the car and about 5 feet away from me! It was SOCOOL!!!
01-10-2013, 07:00 PM
#1103
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
You may be right about that.Go back a few years in this thread and check out what peopl were talking about.
Lots ofpeople spent lots of timeengineer the bullet proofEvader that DTXdid not make.
Lots ofpeople spent lots of timeengineer the bullet proofEvader that DTXdid not make.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Well, nobody has to post on here once they buy one. Once they get it, it's indistructable and they don't break things. (Except maybe bumbers and wheelie bars) They never have a serious problem so they have no need to make an account here.
Well, nobody has to post on here once they buy one. Once they get it, it's indistructable and they don't break things. (Except maybe bumbers and wheelie bars) They never have a serious problem so they have no need to make an account here.
01-10-2013, 08:29 PM
#1104
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
True, that. Most people were starting with old ST's, or the first gen EXT. And of course, I'd wager most of us who got them (bought them new anyway) was because it was a cheap way to explore a new hobby. Which this is a perfect truck for, especially now that DTX has, I think, resolved most of the EXT2's last few short-comings. Namely a decent bumper, and a metal diff. They even put a Castle system in it! Kudos to them for buyin' 'merican. I was wondering about that system as well in my query.
BUT, there is still one last weakness: Drive Pins. At the axle and in the diff. Standard replacements don't last very long. But if you frequent these boards, you learn to replace them with a stronger alternative, (music wire) and off you go! But I haven't seen any such posts asking.
NTR - Yeah that backing can be a ***** to get started. Then you end up getting fingerprints all over it, and it ain't gonna hold.Definatly gotta clean surfaces. Use a hobby knife to start one corner of the backing. I use scissors to cut the piece off the roll, trying to be careful not to touch the sticky stuff. I remove the piece from the scissors with the knife and lay it where it's gonna go and press into place. Then use the knife to peel that edge back till you can carefully remove it with yer fingers.
Works for me.
BUT, there is still one last weakness: Drive Pins. At the axle and in the diff. Standard replacements don't last very long. But if you frequent these boards, you learn to replace them with a stronger alternative, (music wire) and off you go! But I haven't seen any such posts asking.
NTR - Yeah that backing can be a ***** to get started. Then you end up getting fingerprints all over it, and it ain't gonna hold.Definatly gotta clean surfaces. Use a hobby knife to start one corner of the backing. I use scissors to cut the piece off the roll, trying to be careful not to touch the sticky stuff. I remove the piece from the scissors with the knife and lay it where it's gonna go and press into place. Then use the knife to peel that edge back till you can carefully remove it with yer fingers.
Works for me.
01-11-2013, 02:07 AM
#1105
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Naw, didn't rip it, although it I thought I did when it happened. Doc said it is a "severe sprain". Up to one month to fully heal. It's alot better after one week. But time drags on when you're crippled!
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
What happened to your Achilles Tendon? I pull mine twice a month. It's just a regular thing.If you can't race, it must be really bad. Did you rip it?!
What happened to your Achilles Tendon? I pull mine twice a month. It's just a regular thing.
If you can't race, it must be really bad. Did you rip it?!
01-11-2013, 06:45 AM
#1106
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 6,812
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
i use 3M industrial double sided foam tape. its like $3 for 6-10 feet which is plenty for us. i've lifted my df02 (about 4 pounds with lipo) by the receiver which was mounted with the stuff. it didnt even pretend to come off. i had to soak the tape with water then pry it off with my pocket knife, which was still difficult. oddly enough though, it came off clean. i have also used self-adhesive velcro strips. that works if you solder the motor to the esc and need to remove it frequently.
01-11-2013, 03:29 PM
#1108
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey, got a question. The bearings in my rear hubs are rusted really bad. The the one is actually frozen. This explains why it kept drifting right. Apparently Tower doesn't sell a bearing set for the ST. Everything is ST except transmission, the spur, the dogbones, the outdrives and axles, and the wheels/tires. I did notice that tower does sell the EXT and the EXT2 bearing sets, and I was wondering if either one of those would work. All the bearings in my car are original and are beginning to rust. I can reuse some bearings that I had to buy when I was upgrading because they're pretty nice (sealed), but as long as I get all the bearings I need, I think I can make due. They are both the same price, and I'm curious as to which one to get.[&:]
Oh, and here's a link to both.
EXT-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLP6&P=7
EXT2-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGDB&P=7
Oh, and here's a link to both.
EXT-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLP6&P=7
EXT2-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGDB&P=7
01-12-2013, 07:32 AM
#1109
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Hinsburg ,
VT
Posts: 5,877
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
poking aorund on dtx's site it looks like the bearing sizes in the hubs hasn't changed since the ST but i know the sizes in the tranny have.... i think the only bearing that would replace your ones in the tranny are 2 of 5x10's on the top gear, then i think you need another 2 of those for the idler and some 12x18's for the diff.... those are for the ST....
the lug
the lug
01-12-2013, 12:02 PM
#1110
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Looks like the same set to me, just a different part number. The EXT came with bushings instead of bearings, so I doublt there is any difference between the two sets you posted. $22 is not a bad price, but you can buy separates. I've had good luck with Acer brand bearings. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXSW0&P=7 Kinda pricey but I've never had one fail. I have no idea what the ST bearing size is. I'd say measure the ones you have but be careful. DTX mixes metric and standard size bearings. The stock bearings in the EXT2 rear hubs are 5x10 mm but the front hubs are 3/16 x 3/8 inch. The bearings in the sets you found are different from the stock EXT2 bearings. Stock weren't sealed and didn't last too long. The replacements are sealed, I think.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Hey, got a question. The bearings in my rear hubs are rusted really bad.The the one is actually frozen. This explains why it kept drifting right. Apparently Tower doesn't sell a bearing set for the ST. Everything is ST except transmission, the spur, the dogbones, the outdrives and axles, and the wheels/tires. I did notice that tower does sell the EXT and the EXT2 bearing sets, and I was wondering if either one of those would work. All the bearings in my car are original and are beginning to rust. I can reuse some bearings that I had to buy when I was upgrading because they're pretty nice (sealed), but as long as I get all the bearings I need, I think I can make due. They are both the same price, and I'm curious as to which one to get.[&:]
Oh, and here's a link to both.
EXT-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLP6&P=7
EXT2-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGDB&P=7
Hey, got a question. The bearings in my rear hubs are rusted really bad.The the one is actually frozen. This explains why it kept drifting right. Apparently Tower doesn't sell a bearing set for the ST. Everything is ST except transmission, the spur, the dogbones, the outdrives and axles, and the wheels/tires. I did notice that tower does sell the EXT and the EXT2 bearing sets, and I was wondering if either one of those would work. All the bearings in my car are original and are beginning to rust. I can reuse some bearings that I had to buy when I was upgrading because they're pretty nice (sealed), but as long as I get all the bearings I need, I think I can make due. They are both the same price, and I'm curious as to which one to get.[&:]
Oh, and here's a link to both.
EXT-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLP6&P=7
EXT2-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGDB&P=7
01-13-2013, 12:07 PM
#1111
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
We'll find out, basher. I ordered some DTX replacement bearings. Got shipped yesterday. Those "green seal" bearing we've been getting from Ace haven't been holding up as well as I thought they would. Especially those big 11x15mm ones in the tranny, which, you'd think being inside something AND sealed, would hold up longer. We'll see how the DTX replacements do. I gotta go get some tire glue, forgot to order that.....
01-13-2013, 06:07 PM
#1112
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I'm looking into getting these. Rear Hub: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DuraTrax-DTX...item43b2a23fb8 Front Wheel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DURATRAX-RAC...item2579528c0c I'm not sure if I should get them because they have a cheap seal. I want some nice rubber sealed, but can't seem to find anything. I think I'll check Ace's stock.
01-13-2013, 08:29 PM
#1114
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 6,812
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
01-14-2013, 10:19 AM
#1116
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey guys, DH, you in particular: You know those little axle spacers we were discussing a while back? You know, the ones that go between the outer bearing and the wheel drive pin? You cant buy them from DTX!! There's no separate part number! If you look at the manual's exploded drawing, you can see these spacers have a number on the parts list, but if you enter that number on Tower, you get the Top Gear. (which does have these spacers in the pkg)
The solution? Order Team Durango "Crunch Spacer for Front Axle" part # TD310032
But DANG! $2.79 for two little pieces !!! Ouch. It amazes me, what they charge for some of these extremely simple "nothings" in this hobby.
The solution? Order Team Durango "Crunch Spacer for Front Axle" part # TD310032
But DANG! $2.79 for two little pieces !!! Ouch. It amazes me, what they charge for some of these extremely simple "nothings" in this hobby.
01-14-2013, 12:57 PM
#1117
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
If I ever wear mine out, I'll just measure the thickness to the thousandth of an inch, go out to the shop, make a ring, and grind it to perfection.
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
Hey guys, DH, you in particular: You know those little axle spacers we were discussing a while back? You know, the ones that go between the outer bearing and the wheel drive pin? You cant buy them from DTX!! There's no separate part number! If you look at the manual's exploded drawing, you can see these spacers have a number on the parts list, but if you enter that number on Tower, you get the Top Gear. (which does have these spacers in the pkg)
The solution? Order Team Durango "Crunch Spacer for Front Axle" part # TD310032
But DANG! $2.79 for two little pieces !!! Ouch. It amazes me, what they charge for some of these extremely simple "nothings" in this hobby.
Hey guys, DH, you in particular: You know those little axle spacers we were discussing a while back? You know, the ones that go between the outer bearing and the wheel drive pin? You cant buy them from DTX!! There's no separate part number! If you look at the manual's exploded drawing, you can see these spacers have a number on the parts list, but if you enter that number on Tower, you get the Top Gear. (which does have these spacers in the pkg)
The solution? Order Team Durango "Crunch Spacer for Front Axle" part # TD310032
But DANG! $2.79 for two little pieces !!! Ouch. It amazes me, what they charge for some of these extremely simple "nothings" in this hobby.
01-14-2013, 02:32 PM
#1118
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey guys, this is Tommy at Boca Bearings. I am new with the company
but have been involved in RC since I was about 12. I have put some
info below for you about the bearings for the Duratrax Evader EXT2 but
please let me know if you have any specific questions.
Econo Power - $0.99 per bearing and most comparable to what came stock
with your car:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
Green Seal - our flagship RC bearing that should last roughly twice as
long as stock bearings:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
Ceramic Yellow Seal - these are for those looking for a competitive
advantage. Ceramic is lighter, faster and stronger:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
ALSO
Boca Bearings has kits for the ST for electric and nitro!
Nitro: http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...nitro-off-road
Electric:http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...ctric-off-road
You can also find the full list of kits we sell for Duratrax here:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...turer/duratrax
Any other questings feel free to message me at [email protected]
but have been involved in RC since I was about 12. I have put some
info below for you about the bearings for the Duratrax Evader EXT2 but
please let me know if you have any specific questions.
Econo Power - $0.99 per bearing and most comparable to what came stock
with your car:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
Green Seal - our flagship RC bearing that should last roughly twice as
long as stock bearings:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
Ceramic Yellow Seal - these are for those looking for a competitive
advantage. Ceramic is lighter, faster and stronger:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
ALSO
Boca Bearings has kits for the ST for electric and nitro!
Nitro: http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...nitro-off-road
Electric:http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...ctric-off-road
You can also find the full list of kits we sell for Duratrax here:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...turer/duratrax
Any other questings feel free to message me at [email protected]
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Hey, got a question. The bearings in my rear hubs are rusted really bad.The the one is actually frozen. This explains why it kept drifting right. Apparently Tower doesn't sell a bearing set for the ST. Everything is ST except transmission, the spur, the dogbones, the outdrives and axles, and the wheels/tires. I did notice that tower does sell the EXT and the EXT2 bearing sets, and I was wondering if either one of those would work. All the bearings in my car are original and are beginning to rust. I can reuse some bearings that I had to buy when I was upgrading because they're pretty nice (sealed), but as long as I get all the bearings I need, I think I can make due. They are both the same price, and I'm curious as to which one to get.[&:]
Oh, and here's a link to both.
EXT-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLP6&P=7
EXT2-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGDB&P=7
Hey, got a question. The bearings in my rear hubs are rusted really bad.The the one is actually frozen. This explains why it kept drifting right. Apparently Tower doesn't sell a bearing set for the ST. Everything is ST except transmission, the spur, the dogbones, the outdrives and axles, and the wheels/tires. I did notice that tower does sell the EXT and the EXT2 bearing sets, and I was wondering if either one of those would work. All the bearings in my car are original and are beginning to rust. I can reuse some bearings that I had to buy when I was upgrading because they're pretty nice (sealed), but as long as I get all the bearings I need, I think I can make due. They are both the same price, and I'm curious as to which one to get.[&:]
Oh, and here's a link to both.
EXT-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLP6&P=7
EXT2-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGDB&P=7
01-14-2013, 04:54 PM
#1119
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hi Tom,
I thought about getting the whole kit, but I found that most of them are pretty good. What I need is in the rear hubs and the front wheels. The rear hubs are ID: 5mm, OD: 10mm, Thickness: 4mm. And the front wheel bearings are ID: 3/16", OD: 3/8", Thickness: 1/8". I want the green seal ones that last twice as long. I need 4 of each of those types that I listed. What would that cost as a total order with shipping and all?
I thought about getting the whole kit, but I found that most of them are pretty good. What I need is in the rear hubs and the front wheels. The rear hubs are ID: 5mm, OD: 10mm, Thickness: 4mm. And the front wheel bearings are ID: 3/16", OD: 3/8", Thickness: 1/8". I want the green seal ones that last twice as long. I need 4 of each of those types that I listed. What would that cost as a total order with shipping and all?
ORIGINAL: bocabearingtom
Hey guys, this is Tommy at Boca Bearings. I am new with the company
but have been involved in RC since I was about 12. I have put some
info below for you about the bearings for the Duratrax Evader EXT2 but
please let me know if you have any specific questions.
Econo Power - $0.99 per bearing and most comparable to what came stock
with your car:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
Green Seal - our flagship RC bearing that should last roughly twice as
long as stock bearings:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
Ceramic Yellow Seal - these are for those looking for a competitive
advantage. Ceramic is lighter, faster and stronger:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
ALSO
Boca Bearings has kits for the ST for electric and nitro!
Nitro: http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...nitro-off-road
Electric:http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...ctric-off-road
You can also find the full list of kits we sell for Duratrax here:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...turer/duratrax
Any other questings feel free to message me at [email protected]
Hey guys, this is Tommy at Boca Bearings. I am new with the company
but have been involved in RC since I was about 12. I have put some
info below for you about the bearings for the Duratrax Evader EXT2 but
please let me know if you have any specific questions.
Econo Power - $0.99 per bearing and most comparable to what came stock
with your car:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
Green Seal - our flagship RC bearing that should last roughly twice as
long as stock bearings:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
Ceramic Yellow Seal - these are for those looking for a competitive
advantage. Ceramic is lighter, faster and stronger:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
ALSO
Boca Bearings has kits for the ST for electric and nitro!
Nitro: http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...nitro-off-road
Electric:http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...ctric-off-road
You can also find the full list of kits we sell for Duratrax here:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...turer/duratrax
Any other questings feel free to message me at [email protected]
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Hey, got a question. The bearings in my rear hubs are rusted really bad.The the one is actually frozen. This explains why it kept drifting right. Apparently Tower doesn't sell a bearing set for the ST. Everything is ST except transmission, the spur, the dogbones, the outdrives and axles, and the wheels/tires. I did notice that tower does sell the EXT and the EXT2 bearing sets, and I was wondering if either one of those would work. All the bearings in my car are original and are beginning to rust. I can reuse some bearings that I had to buy when I was upgrading because they're pretty nice (sealed), but as long as I get all the bearings I need, I think I can make due. They are both the same price, and I'm curious as to which one to get.[&:]
Oh, and here's a link to both.
EXT-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLP6&P=7
EXT2-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGDB&P=7
Hey, got a question. The bearings in my rear hubs are rusted really bad.The the one is actually frozen. This explains why it kept drifting right. Apparently Tower doesn't sell a bearing set for the ST. Everything is ST except transmission, the spur, the dogbones, the outdrives and axles, and the wheels/tires. I did notice that tower does sell the EXT and the EXT2 bearing sets, and I was wondering if either one of those would work. All the bearings in my car are original and are beginning to rust. I can reuse some bearings that I had to buy when I was upgrading because they're pretty nice (sealed), but as long as I get all the bearings I need, I think I can make due. They are both the same price, and I'm curious as to which one to get.[&:]
Oh, and here's a link to both.
EXT-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLP6&P=7
EXT2-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGDB&P=7
01-15-2013, 05:56 AM
#1120
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
hey DieHard1207 these are the bearings that you are looking for!
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...x10x4-MR1052GS
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...0-1250-R1662GS
the 5x10x4 are $2.75 each
the 3/16x3/8x1/8 are $3.75 each
four of each would run you $26.00 and the shipping would be free!!
You can place an order on the web or contact me directly via email or phone and ill take care of this for you personally !
email [email protected]
phone 561-998-0004
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...x10x4-MR1052GS
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...0-1250-R1662GS
the 5x10x4 are $2.75 each
the 3/16x3/8x1/8 are $3.75 each
four of each would run you $26.00 and the shipping would be free!!
You can place an order on the web or contact me directly via email or phone and ill take care of this for you personally !
email [email protected]
phone 561-998-0004
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Hi Tom,
I thought about getting the whole kit, but I found that most of them are pretty good. What I need is in the rear hubs and the front wheels. The rear hubs are ID: 5mm, OD: 10mm, Thickness: 4mm. And the front wheel bearings are ID: 3/16", OD: 3/8", Thickness: 1/8". I want the green seal ones that last twice as long. I need 4 of each of those types that I listed. What would that cost as a total order with shipping and all?
Hi Tom,
I thought about getting the whole kit, but I found that most of them are pretty good. What I need is in the rear hubs and the front wheels. The rear hubs are ID: 5mm, OD: 10mm, Thickness: 4mm. And the front wheel bearings are ID: 3/16", OD: 3/8", Thickness: 1/8". I want the green seal ones that last twice as long. I need 4 of each of those types that I listed. What would that cost as a total order with shipping and all?
ORIGINAL: bocabearingtom
Hey guys, this is Tommy at Boca Bearings. I am new with the company
but have been involved in RC since I was about 12. I have put some
info below for you about the bearings for the Duratrax Evader EXT2 but
please let me know if you have any specific questions.
Econo Power - $0.99 per bearing and most comparable to what came stock
with your car:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
Green Seal - our flagship RC bearing that should last roughly twice as
long as stock bearings:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
Ceramic Yellow Seal - these are for those looking for a competitive
advantage. Ceramic is lighter, faster and stronger:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
ALSO
Boca Bearings has kits for the ST for electric and nitro!
Nitro: http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...nitro-off-road
Electric:http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...ctric-off-road
You can also find the full list of kits we sell for Duratrax here:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...turer/duratrax
Any other questings feel free to message me at [email protected]
Hey guys, this is Tommy at Boca Bearings. I am new with the company
but have been involved in RC since I was about 12. I have put some
info below for you about the bearings for the Duratrax Evader EXT2 but
please let me know if you have any specific questions.
Econo Power - $0.99 per bearing and most comparable to what came stock
with your car:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
Green Seal - our flagship RC bearing that should last roughly twice as
long as stock bearings:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
Ceramic Yellow Seal - these are for those looking for a competitive
advantage. Ceramic is lighter, faster and stronger:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric
ALSO
Boca Bearings has kits for the ST for electric and nitro!
Nitro: http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...nitro-off-road
Electric:http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...ctric-off-road
You can also find the full list of kits we sell for Duratrax here:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...turer/duratrax
Any other questings feel free to message me at [email protected]
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Hey, got a question. The bearings in my rear hubs are rusted really bad.The the one is actually frozen. This explains why it kept drifting right. Apparently Tower doesn't sell a bearing set for the ST. Everything is ST except transmission, the spur, the dogbones, the outdrives and axles, and the wheels/tires. I did notice that tower does sell the EXT and the EXT2 bearing sets, and I was wondering if either one of those would work. All the bearings in my car are original and are beginning to rust. I can reuse some bearings that I had to buy when I was upgrading because they're pretty nice (sealed), but as long as I get all the bearings I need, I think I can make due. They are both the same price, and I'm curious as to which one to get.[&:]
Oh, and here's a link to both.
EXT-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLP6&P=7
EXT2-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGDB&P=7
Hey, got a question. The bearings in my rear hubs are rusted really bad.The the one is actually frozen. This explains why it kept drifting right. Apparently Tower doesn't sell a bearing set for the ST. Everything is ST except transmission, the spur, the dogbones, the outdrives and axles, and the wheels/tires. I did notice that tower does sell the EXT and the EXT2 bearing sets, and I was wondering if either one of those would work. All the bearings in my car are original and are beginning to rust. I can reuse some bearings that I had to buy when I was upgrading because they're pretty nice (sealed), but as long as I get all the bearings I need, I think I can make due. They are both the same price, and I'm curious as to which one to get.[&:]
Oh, and here's a link to both.
EXT-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLP6&P=7
EXT2-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGDB&P=7
01-15-2013, 09:22 AM
#1121
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey BocaBob, thanks for the bearing info. The kits look to be decently priced. I just might order a kit next time I need some.
Uh, FYI, your web page needs correcting: the odd-sized bearings are for the FRONT, the 5x10mm are for the REAR and gearbox. Jus' so ya know.......
Uh, FYI, your web page needs correcting: the odd-sized bearings are for the FRONT, the 5x10mm are for the REAR and gearbox. Jus' so ya know.......
01-15-2013, 02:00 PM
#1122
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey BocaBob, just to confirm youre telling me that the 5x10 also go in the gear box and if so how many???
thanks for the help!
thanks for the help!
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
Hey BocaBob, thanks for the bearing info. The kits look to be decently priced. I just might order a kit next time I need some.
Uh, FYI, your web page needs correcting: the odd-sized bearings are for the FRONT, the 5x10mm are for the REAR and gearbox. Jus' so ya know.......
Hey BocaBob, thanks for the bearing info. The kits look to be decently priced. I just might order a kit next time I need some.
Uh, FYI, your web page needs correcting: the odd-sized bearings are for the FRONT, the 5x10mm are for the REAR and gearbox. Jus' so ya know.......
01-16-2013, 09:04 AM
#1124
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Hinsburg ,
VT
Posts: 5,877
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
the idler on the EXT runs a 5x11, the ST runs a 5x10, but both run the 5x10 in the top gear....
this has all the manuals/exploded views with parts and such for all the evaders....
http://duratrax.com/downloads/index.html
the lug
this has all the manuals/exploded views with parts and such for all the evaders....
http://duratrax.com/downloads/index.html
the lug
01-16-2013, 10:01 AM
#1125
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
According to my exploded view that came with my evader EXT2 it has a 5 x10 for the idler and top gear. I've replaced both with better quality bearings and the 5 x10 fits both perfectly.
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
the idler on the EXT runs a 5x11, the ST runs a 5x10, but both run the 5x10 in the top gear....
this has all the manuals/exploded views with parts and such for all the evaders....
http://duratrax.com/downloads/index.html
the lug
the idler on the EXT runs a 5x11, the ST runs a 5x10, but both run the 5x10 in the top gear....
this has all the manuals/exploded views with parts and such for all the evaders....
http://duratrax.com/downloads/index.html
the lug