RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more Discuss electric RC off-road, buggies & trucks here. Also discuss brushless motors, speed controllers aka ESC's, brushed motors, etc

The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

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Old 01-03-2014, 05:01 PM
  #1776
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Night shots coming up DH. Going up to Rob's tomorrow for another race day. Gotta take advantage of this spring-like weather. Although we need rain badly.
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:08 PM
  #1778
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Also whats the best discharge rating to use for a 7.4lipo? I doubt people run 11.1's...or do they?
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:54 PM
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for street use, perfect. a tad high kv for offroad. some do run 3s. dieharder did when he first went brushless. he returned it for a 2s. if you are running 100% street and have done some mods and tuning for the street then 3s may be something to consider, but i'd start with 2s. as for discharge rate, any will work for that system (assuming you get 5000mah), but in general you can never have too high discharge.

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Old 01-06-2014, 05:14 PM
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would this be better?.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...000KV_80A.html

And whats the best way to get the esc to stay on the car, jbweld doesn't like to hold after I jump over a few speed bumps
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:07 PM
  #1781
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Some ESCs you can screw down. Others, you just use a lot of double sided foam tape. I did 3S and broke drive shafts, stripped out wheels, ruined top shafts, etc. You DON't want to do it. I bought the Traxxas VXL3S system that contains a 200A ESC (320A Peak) and a 3500kv 2 pole waterproof brushless motor. I wanted to run the fastest setup, cause I was sick of burning up brushed motors. I had to mod the chassis to fit the 3S and strapped it in with homemade straps that looked pro. It was terribly fast, and accelerated so quickly and hard, that it did backflips WITH a wheelie bar! I couldn't afford the parts to constantly keep fixing it, so I returned it and lost $20 on it because I used it. I was just like you, but I wasted $20. I then bought a nice Venom 5000mah 40C 7.4v (2S) battery, and used that for 1.5 years. Now I got the same thing again this past November. 2S has all the power you'll ever want. It will wheelie on demand until the wheelie bar lifts the rear tires off the ground. Mine does 50+ on high speed gearing. It's just enough power that it pushes the limits of breaking parts, but doesn't do them in. After my 1.5 years of running it, I finally notice a slight twist one of my dog bones. That shows how long it takes to break something like that in the drivetrain. I've shredded about 8 spurs with it though, and those were the high strength, expensive ones... So overall, if you want to find out what 3S is like, then go ahead and buy one. But in the end, you'll be lucky to come out of it less than $20 loss. (That is, if you can return it.) Also, the ESC and motor run a lot cooler on 2S than 3S. I was pushing 190* on 3S, and had to stop for fear of burning up the motor, so keep an eye on that...
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:52 PM
  #1782
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Ouch. 190 & no motor problems?
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:53 PM
  #1783
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i'd go with the 5200 IF it's strictly street. supposing you run a 72 tooth spur and 25 tooth pinion with 4 inch tires on 2s, the 5200 will push 60mph whereas the 3000 will chug along at 35. now if you're drifting, i have no clue which would be best.
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:54 PM
  #1784
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what do you mean my 2s and 3s? hats he T turn in motor specs? and I'm guessing the more kv the faster it goes?
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:36 PM
  #1785
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Yes, more kV means a faster, more powerful motor. 5200kV means the motor spins 5300 rpm per volt. With a 2S lipo that's about 44,000 rpm.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:44 PM
  #1786
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Default Night Racing

Here is a shot of our cars racing with the LED lights. You can't see the cars 'cause they're moving, just the lights!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1955102[/ATTACH]
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:47 AM
  #1787
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S means the number of battery cells in series. a 2s is a 7.4v pack and 3s is 11.1v. when it comes to brushless, turn means next to nothing and there isnt a very reliable conversion but as a general rule, 3000kv is roughly equivalent to a 21t brushed. egbasher made a typo, a 5200kv motor spins at 5200 rpm per volt.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:28 AM
  #1788
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So I'm just gonna meet in the middle of the 2 and get a 4000kv
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...000KV_80A.html
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:30 AM
  #1789
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and is there some sort of conversion for the back wheels to change it from pins to hexs?
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:36 AM
  #1790
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These might work http://www.nitrohouse.com/Plastic-He...Sc_p_5772.html

You might have to make them a little thinner, as I don't know if they'll bind on the hub carrier. Maybe use a larger washer behind the drive pin?

Don't know anything about those Turnigy motor systems AFA reliability. Price is sure good tho. Might try posting a separate thread about it and see what kind of responses you get about it.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:48 AM
  #1791
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If you already have an account with Tower Hobbies, they sell the same thing here: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPA13&P=7
These will for sure fit as I checked the axle diameter, and made sure it matched up to the inside hex diameter. They don't come with pins. You should already have some pins. If not, Rob or I can explain how to make your own pins....

4000kv is a good place to be. I run 3500kv, and it's great, but that's with an oversized 540. I would definitely go with the 4000kv. Great Choice!

As I stated before though, I am much happier with 2S than 3S. 2S goes above and beyond what you WANT and WAY more than what you'll ever need in that thing. 2S is about the best for a lipo upgrade IMO. Be sure that you get something at least 40C for a good punch when you need it.

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Originally Posted by EXT2Rob View Post
These might work http://www.nitrohouse.com/Plastic-He...Sc_p_5772.html

You might have to make them a little thinner, as I don't know if they'll bind on the hub carrier. Maybe use a larger washer behind the drive pin?

Don't know anything about those Turnigy motor systems AFA reliability. Price is sure good tho. Might try posting a separate thread about it and see what kind of responses you get about it.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:49 AM
  #1792
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I think that's edited.... LOL

Nice avatar EGB! Subaru FTW!!
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Here is a shot of our cars racing with the LED lights. You can't see the cars 'cause they're moving, just the lights!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1955102[/ATTACH]
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Old 01-07-2014, 10:47 AM
  #1793
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It's not Photoshopped. EXTRob will vouch for me. I just set the camera on a tripod, stopped down the lens to f22 and opened the shutter for about 45 seconds. That's about 2 laps of the track. Look closely and you can see 4 racing lines. Two cars, two laps - four lines. You can even get an idea of the track layout. Red the cars are going away from the camera and blue they are coming toward the camera. Thanks for the thumbs up on the avatar DH. My WRX is the best car I have ever owned.
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:02 AM
  #1794
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Looks like a nice system at a great price. It is not a full 540 size motor but a 3650 like the EZRun I use. But that is a great little motor for an Evader. 370 watts - that's about 1/2 horsepower. Should be enough!
Quote:
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So I'm just gonna meet in the middle of the 2 and get a 4000kv
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...000KV_80A.html
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:06 AM
  #1795
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My bad. Only politicians can make 5200 = 5300.
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S means the number of battery cells in series. a 2s is a 7.4v pack and 3s is 11.1v. when it comes to brushless, turn means next to nothing and there isnt a very reliable conversion but as a general rule, 3000kv is roughly equivalent to a 21t brushed. egbasher made a typo, a 5200kv motor spins at 5200 rpm per volt.
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:56 AM
  #1796
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Yeah, Dude, if yer gonna go brushless, there are a couple things you'll want to upgrade for reliability. First, the drive pins on the stub axles. The stock rolled spring pins break too often under brushless power. You have a hardware store nearby? See if they have K&S Precision Metals "Music Wire" stock #504, 0.062in (1.57mm). This is just solid metal rod and comes in 30in lengths, bundles of three. It's only a few bucks and will last you a lifetime. Just cut them to length. Note that they will not fit tightly and tend to fall out when you take the wheel off. But, they will never break.

The other thing has to do with the differential. You have a plastic gear diff, even tho the internals are metal. When you open the diff, you will find the small "planetary gears" in between two larger bevel gears. Behind the bevel gear is the end of the drive cup and it is held in place, and driven by, another pin. That pin may also fail. It can be replaced with stock #502 Music Wire 0.047in (1.19mm) and should never give you any more problem. If you cannot find the music wire locally, send me a PM and I'll arrange to send you some.

However, depending on how and where you drive, and how your slipper clutch is set, the plastic diff gear can get stripped. If that happens, get the Brushless Evader (now discontinued, but parts are available) all-metal differential:http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURC&P=7 Yeah, it's $17, but it will never strip. The diff gears inside need a good lube. Get some of this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBLNN&P=ML (use it in YOUR diff NOW if you want to save your gears) Lube the tranny gears as well. The car comes from the factory practically dry. Pick up some silicone shock oil too. The stock 20wt is a little light, I use 35wt.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:47 PM
  #1797
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Hey Rob, he's already got the metal gearbox setup, I believe. But he still needs to do the drive pin upgrade....

Dude: What are you running for shock oil? Stock?
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:54 PM
  #1798
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Oh yeah, you talked about that special shutter earlier. Sorry, I missed that... It's very neat how you can do something like that! WOW!

Subaru seems to make plenty decent vehicles. My grandma recently bought a 2014 Subaru Forester. Very, very, nice unit IMO. X-Mode is pretty cool. It works opposite the differential. When it feels a wheel slip, it electronically sends power to the OTHER wheel that has grip, instead of vice-versa. It makes even having a diff sound like a bad thing! But when out of X-Mode, it uses the diffs like a regular vehicle. Subaru makes some good AWD systems too. She claims she hasn't slipped in all this snow yet this winter, but we all know how people with new cars can exaggerate! AWD or no, we've had one of the worst winters with this snow storm in years! LOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by egbasher View Post
It's not Photoshopped. EXTRob will vouch for me. I just set the camera on a tripod, stopped down the lens to f22 and opened the shutter for about 45 seconds. That's about 2 laps of the track. Look closely and you can see 4 racing lines. Two cars, two laps - four lines. You can even get an idea of the track layout. Red the cars are going away from the camera and blue they are coming toward the camera. Thanks for the thumbs up on the avatar DH. My WRX is the best car I have ever owned.
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Old 01-07-2014, 04:51 PM
  #1799
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slipper clutch is not exsitand, and soon as I hit a little throttle it's turning wheels. And like dieharder said All gears in the tranny are metal. Can one of ya'll make a quick vid/pic tutorial of making these music wire pins. I also need to find some good street/asphalt tires for st that are 12mm hex, matching rims too. nothing fancy, I'm not picky about looks. but please find them on tower
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Old 01-07-2014, 04:52 PM
  #1800
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tower makes it hard to find parts you need if you don't know anything about this hobby
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