The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
07-14-2014, 06:01 AM
#2026
What vehicle is that in the pics on your 2 of 3 posts?
I had no idea Hobbico owned Axial, HPI, or Thunder Tiger. That blows my mind... lol
I'm starting to see the picture now. It's like there are two main RC companies. Hobbico and Horizon Hobby. Between the two, you get many of the major names in RC.
If a 2014 ST or BL that had the features you posted above came out, I would do some comparing to what I have, and maybe pull the trigger if the price was right. Otherwise I have my heart set on a 1/8 4WD buggy.
I had diff stripping issues along with the flat spots in the diff when I had my old ST tranny. After replacing approximately 6 diff gears, I decided to do the upgrade to the BL diff. I never fixed the flat spots, but I would suspect that it was from worn balls. Maybe the ones you used to replace them were the wrong size or were already worn? That or it was the thrust bearing balls.
Sounds like you have that same frustrated-throwing things temper I do. lol
I had no idea Hobbico owned Axial, HPI, or Thunder Tiger. That blows my mind... lol
I'm starting to see the picture now. It's like there are two main RC companies. Hobbico and Horizon Hobby. Between the two, you get many of the major names in RC.
If a 2014 ST or BL that had the features you posted above came out, I would do some comparing to what I have, and maybe pull the trigger if the price was right. Otherwise I have my heart set on a 1/8 4WD buggy.
I had diff stripping issues along with the flat spots in the diff when I had my old ST tranny. After replacing approximately 6 diff gears, I decided to do the upgrade to the BL diff. I never fixed the flat spots, but I would suspect that it was from worn balls. Maybe the ones you used to replace them were the wrong size or were already worn? That or it was the thrust bearing balls.
Sounds like you have that same frustrated-throwing things temper I do. lol
Those pics in "2014 Evader ST Revival" post are a Kyosho RT6
And I have learned my lesson on rebuilding diffs...always use new balls!
07-14-2014, 06:50 AM
#2027
I'm here, bored, thinking of putting my MambaMax 5700kv combo (from my B4) in the old ST and seeing how much damage I can do. I need something to work on.
When my buddy got me back into racing (2007) buggies, I got the MambaMax combo. That motor/ESC is the reason why I have a collection of torn up Evader ST trannys now.
I raced for that one season and shelved it until 2011. Now I run that B4 buggy, along with the EVST, almost every other day and still haven't had to rebuild that tranny.
When my buddy got me back into racing (2007) buggies, I got the MambaMax combo. That motor/ESC is the reason why I have a collection of torn up Evader ST trannys now.
I raced for that one season and shelved it until 2011. Now I run that B4 buggy, along with the EVST, almost every other day and still haven't had to rebuild that tranny.
Last edited by RustyUs; 07-14-2014 at 07:16 AM.
07-16-2014, 05:30 PM
#2028
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If you already have torn up ST trannys, aren't those something to work on? Fix em up and put them up on eBay and see what you can get for them! Or sell the good parts.
I finally have everything I need to put my Evader together for the fall running season. Yes! lol Err.... wait, I'm still waiting for those deans ultra plugs to show up so I can solder them to the new ESC... But close enough to start assembly, yo!
Fix em up and put them up on eBay and see what you can get for them! Or sell the good parts.I finally have everything I need to put my Evader together for the fall running season. Yes! lol Err.... wait, I'm still waiting for those deans ultra plugs to show up so I can solder them to the new ESC... But close enough to start assembly, yo!
07-16-2014, 07:39 PM
#2029
Waiting for parts and money. I only had 2 of the EXT idlers...those were the spares to the Brushless Evader tranny in my truck now. Now I'm looking for thrust bearings...DTXC7445 discontinued also! Measuring and surfing the web for ideas to use for thrust bearings. If I do plan to use/sell the ST/ST Pro trannys in the future I need a supply of parts. The thrust bearings are the issue now.
You're probably right,DieHarder,about just sell the good parts. I don't know why I try to resurrect the dead.
DieHarder, is that Alias the quadcopter?
You're probably right,DieHarder,about just sell the good parts. I don't know why I try to resurrect the dead.
DieHarder, is that Alias the quadcopter?
07-17-2014, 05:42 AM
#2030
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Yeah. The LaTrax Alias: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXDZHERR&P=7 Very Nice copter IMO, but after I changed motors, it seems to have less power. Maybe it's the battery, not sure. One if these days I'll track down the problem...
Duratrax seems to have discontinued lots of parts for the Evaders in the past couple of years.
Duratrax seems to have discontinued lots of parts for the Evaders in the past couple of years.
07-20-2014, 11:34 AM
#2031
2nd LiPo that had to be put to rest
After doing my first ever speed test with the ST Pro I have come to find out some characteristics of a LiPo going bad...
I was shocked to find my GPS told me that the Evader was only going 29.5 mph.
I thought for sure the old ST had more in her than a lousy run like that. The second pass ended short 'cause I thought my transmitter batts were getin' low (truckk would not run until I got closer to it.) Third, forth, ...after the fifth pass the same thing was happening.
I brought the truck in for inspection. I found I must have had the slipper lil on the loose side...I am not used to running on asphalt.
I could smell that hot slipper disc/spur gear smell (oh, plastic about to melt does have a smell...BTDT Been There, Done That many times).
Today I was using the same LiPo that I used for my speed test. I peaked/balanced the battery; put fresh batts in the transmitter, and headed to the track. Every 5 seconds the truck would slow down and then stop. I would pull the trigger and the truck would go like mad for about 5 seconds again. Three minutes of this I had enough; somethings not right. Glad I stopped. The LiPo was almost too hot to handle.
Curious me, I had to go and discharge the LiPo to see the numbers of each cell. I start discharging and both cells were at 3.87v, then a few seconds later the charger/discharger beeps like crazy....one cell dropped to 2.53v. In the trash (recycle I mean) that LiPo goes.
I was shocked to find my GPS told me that the Evader was only going 29.5 mph.
I thought for sure the old ST had more in her than a lousy run like that. The second pass ended short 'cause I thought my transmitter batts were getin' low (truckk would not run until I got closer to it.) Third, forth, ...after the fifth pass the same thing was happening.I brought the truck in for inspection. I found I must have had the slipper lil on the loose side...I am not used to running on asphalt.
I could smell that hot slipper disc/spur gear smell (oh, plastic about to melt does have a smell...BTDT Been There, Done That many times).Today I was using the same LiPo that I used for my speed test. I peaked/balanced the battery; put fresh batts in the transmitter, and headed to the track. Every 5 seconds the truck would slow down and then stop. I would pull the trigger and the truck would go like mad for about 5 seconds again. Three minutes of this I had enough; somethings not right. Glad I stopped. The LiPo was almost too hot to handle.
Curious me, I had to go and discharge the LiPo to see the numbers of each cell. I start discharging and both cells were at 3.87v, then a few seconds later the charger/discharger beeps like crazy....one cell dropped to 2.53v. In the trash (recycle I mean) that LiPo goes.
07-25-2014, 05:57 AM
#2032
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I usually lock up my slipper, which is probably why my spurs always shred.
I finally have a 32P mesh with a modified gear cover that actually WORKS! Yes! Also put a new Hitec 5645MG servo, waterproof receiver box, FlySky receiver, new dogbones, new top shaft, new sponge washers for the ball joints, new DT front bumper, new slipper pad, new shock oil, and new body clips in it. I have a new VXL3S ESC to put in lastly, but I'm waiting for dad to solder on a deans ultra plug. Then after I install that, it's ready to rock!
I finally have a 32P mesh with a modified gear cover that actually WORKS! Yes!
Also put a new Hitec 5645MG servo, waterproof receiver box, FlySky receiver, new dogbones, new top shaft, new sponge washers for the ball joints, new DT front bumper, new slipper pad, new shock oil, and new body clips in it. I have a new VXL3S ESC to put in lastly, but I'm waiting for dad to solder on a deans ultra plug. Then after I install that, it's ready to rock!
07-25-2014, 10:58 AM
#2034
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07-25-2014, 06:58 PM
#2035
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And Duratrax sells them even cheaper: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAML8&P=7
How's it going toothless? What's up?
Do you run the sponge washers on your EXT2 Rob? I'll have to look and see if they come on the stock setup for EXT2 like they did on the ST.
My ST ones degraded a long time ago. When I was rebuilding it I said, "The heck with it! They cost $1.79 so why not?" They only took about 15 min to install. It takes a bit longer than you would expect because you have to open up the bell crank deck to put them on the joints in there. I think toothless is right about keeping dirt and grime out, but I've also found the when you oil the ball joint, the sponge will absorb some of the oil and become like a reservoir that continuously lubricates the joint. The oil might attract dirt to the sponge, but I'm sure it also creates a solid barrier between the sponge pores to keep dust out.
My old ESC got a waterproofing job with silicone and got installed in my TL-01 plow truck that I will be using next summer to pull my trailer and crawler through the woods. It powers a Tekin 13.5T Sensored motor. Most expensive motor I've purchased! lol So because I decided to permanently keep it in the TL-01, I needed a new ESC for my Evader. Regardless, I had two vehicles and one ESC. So I got a VXL3S ESC off eBay for $75. (What a deal!) I just finished installing the new ESC and deans ultra plug. I wired all my stuff into the waterproof radio box, bound the receiver, checked the mesh once more, and put the body on with a fully charged battery. Ready to rip early tomorrow morning for the first time this year! (I might be late, but I sure hope it was worth it!) I will have to get some pics of the modified gear cover soon to show you all what I did for that. If anybody with an ST wants to do 32P, I know how. I did it for about $10.
How's it going toothless? What's up?
Do you run the sponge washers on your EXT2 Rob? I'll have to look and see if they come on the stock setup for EXT2 like they did on the ST.
My ST ones degraded a long time ago. When I was rebuilding it I said, "The heck with it! They cost $1.79 so why not?" They only took about 15 min to install. It takes a bit longer than you would expect because you have to open up the bell crank deck to put them on the joints in there. I think toothless is right about keeping dirt and grime out, but I've also found the when you oil the ball joint, the sponge will absorb some of the oil and become like a reservoir that continuously lubricates the joint. The oil might attract dirt to the sponge, but I'm sure it also creates a solid barrier between the sponge pores to keep dust out.
My old ESC got a waterproofing job with silicone and got installed in my TL-01 plow truck that I will be using next summer to pull my trailer and crawler through the woods. It powers a Tekin 13.5T Sensored motor. Most expensive motor I've purchased! lol So because I decided to permanently keep it in the TL-01, I needed a new ESC for my Evader. Regardless, I had two vehicles and one ESC. So I got a VXL3S ESC off eBay for $75. (What a deal!) I just finished installing the new ESC and deans ultra plug. I wired all my stuff into the waterproof radio box, bound the receiver, checked the mesh once more, and put the body on with a fully charged battery. Ready to rip early tomorrow morning for the first time this year! (I might be late, but I sure hope it was worth it!) I will have to get some pics of the modified gear cover soon to show you all what I did for that. If anybody with an ST wants to do 32P, I know how. I did it for about $10.
07-27-2014, 04:59 PM
#2037
Well, I just came from the track and another axle pin busted
and starting to shred the center of my last set of Duratrax OEM rims. I have about 8 spring pins before I start searching for some music wire. It's never a good thing when I crank up the settings to get maximum power out of the motor. I have to set my radio to 75% max throttle in order to have any hopes the rims will last a month.
and starting to shred the center of my last set of Duratrax OEM rims. I have about 8 spring pins before I start searching for some music wire. It's never a good thing when I crank up the settings to get maximum power out of the motor. I have to set my radio to 75% max throttle in order to have any hopes the rims will last a month.
07-27-2014, 05:03 PM
#2038
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Ok, I am overly satisfied. IT RAN GREAT!! I had a couple issues with keeping the receiver and transmitter on the FlySky system bound when I would turn it off and then back on, but those issues have been resolved. My VXL 3500 motor started right up and ran great! The same cogging up until about 2mph, but I can live with it.
32 pitch forever! Never again 48P! I tell you, without a lie, 32P sounds SO smooth when accelerating on pavement. As for gravel and dirt, it's great. Like dad said, "Before it sounded like a cheap drill. Now it sounds like it has all the wicked power you could ever need." I totally agree. If you could hear and drive this thing Rusty, I think you would have 32P tomorrow. It sounds and performs that good. The only different thing is that because the teeth are larger and so are the gaps in the mesh, you can here a very faint 'click' of the gears switching direction when you go from rolling forward to reverse. I don't here it half the time, it's really faint. I might have had that with 48P, not sure. I did some hard running to put the gears to the test. They held up wonderfully without a fault. After bashing hard through the roots, grass, and mud with a locked slipper, it pulled up onto the concrete running as smooth as it did when I started.
I wish I had a better gear cover though. It's not super easy to take off and put back on like I want, but it works great and keeps the dirt out. I did paint the outside of it to cover up all the glue, so it be kinda hard to see what I did. I cut a slot where the spur gear goes, around the cover where it rubs. I then layed some thin strips of servo tape along both sides of the slot. I cut a piece of an old gear cover that was wider than the slot and would fit over the servo tape. I placed the piece on and the servo tape held it down. I applied CA glue all the way around where the servo tape was to seal it good. I also patched a few holes in the cover with servo tape and glue. Then I removed the rubber slipper plug, roughed the cover up with sand paper, and painted it. The paint is rough in some places due to the repairs. The width of the servo tape lifts the plastic high enough (far enough) away from the spur. It actually works! I was freaking out earlier about running open gears...
Had some picture perfect mud shots too.
So overall, I am impressed. It drives with crazy power, crazy torque, not the fastest with a 16T pinion, but enough to start. It should be good for doing track racing or short course, which means, whenever your ready DTXandTRX we can head over to BattleFront for a few practice laps together. It would be a lot of fun to meet up with someone else who is into the hobby nearby.
32 pitch forever! Never again 48P! I tell you, without a lie, 32P sounds SO smooth when accelerating on pavement. As for gravel and dirt, it's great. Like dad said, "Before it sounded like a cheap drill. Now it sounds like it has all the wicked power you could ever need." I totally agree. If you could hear and drive this thing Rusty, I think you would have 32P tomorrow. It sounds and performs that good. The only different thing is that because the teeth are larger and so are the gaps in the mesh, you can here a very faint 'click' of the gears switching direction when you go from rolling forward to reverse. I don't here it half the time, it's really faint. I might have had that with 48P, not sure. I did some hard running to put the gears to the test. They held up wonderfully without a fault. After bashing hard through the roots, grass, and mud with a locked slipper, it pulled up onto the concrete running as smooth as it did when I started.
I wish I had a better gear cover though. It's not super easy to take off and put back on like I want, but it works great and keeps the dirt out. I did paint the outside of it to cover up all the glue, so it be kinda hard to see what I did. I cut a slot where the spur gear goes, around the cover where it rubs. I then layed some thin strips of servo tape along both sides of the slot. I cut a piece of an old gear cover that was wider than the slot and would fit over the servo tape. I placed the piece on and the servo tape held it down. I applied CA glue all the way around where the servo tape was to seal it good. I also patched a few holes in the cover with servo tape and glue. Then I removed the rubber slipper plug, roughed the cover up with sand paper, and painted it. The paint is rough in some places due to the repairs. The width of the servo tape lifts the plastic high enough (far enough) away from the spur. It actually works! I was freaking out earlier about running open gears...
Had some picture perfect mud shots too.
So overall, I am impressed. It drives with crazy power, crazy torque, not the fastest with a 16T pinion, but enough to start. It should be good for doing track racing or short course, which means, whenever your ready DTXandTRX we can head over to BattleFront for a few practice laps together. It would be a lot of fun to meet up with someone else who is into the hobby nearby.
Last edited by DieHarder; 07-27-2014 at 05:36 PM.
07-28-2014, 02:40 PM
#2039
Dude (DieHarder), that's some frickin' awesome tires you got there! I can see why now you went with 32P spur/pinions. Those Pro-Lines look like they'll tear up anything.
Are you happy runnin' those rims, and can they handle the abuse? I thought about trying those rims, but I've pretty much gave up on Duratrax rims.
Are you happy runnin' those rims, and can they handle the abuse? I thought about trying those rims, but I've pretty much gave up on Duratrax rims.
07-28-2014, 05:49 PM
#2040
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I love my Badlands! Thanks! They are way better for general bashing than Dirt Hawgs II or Dirt Works. I'm pretty sure the specs show them being almost 5" tall. I very rarely get stuck. I've got the truck looking like an Evader Brushless when it's really and ST. lol It fools someone every now and then. I've ran the Black Duratrax rims with my last 2 sets of tires and they have held up great. Awhile back I didn't have that little rear axle washer that goes behind the wheel pin and I would have to leave the nut loose so the tire would spin without tightening down on the bearing. When running, the nut would loosen up and cause the wheel to rip out. Was such a pain because it ruined a wheel and tire. I had to buy new tires and wheels, which became very expensive. I finally looked at the exploded view and found my washer between the bearings in the hub. I flipped it around and no issues since. I run the music wire pins also and really crank down the nut. No issues since. (I did replace the nut last winter.) I didn't have luck with the old ST wheels, but not an issue with the EXT2/BL rims.
Still having great luck with 32P after 3 packs.
Still having great luck with 32P after 3 packs.
07-29-2014, 11:28 AM
#2041
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I'm having issues with radio signal loss on my duratrax evader ext..its upgraded to brushless and I'm running a 3s in it but recently it started acting like the batteries in the remote were going dead but they were brand new...it loses signal after a couple feet and only way to get the remote to work again is to shut the car off but then it does the same thing...I'm lost :-(
07-29-2014, 02:46 PM
#2042
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Is your gearbox stock? It takes some experience and talented control to run 3S with plastic gears. What radio do you have? Stock? Need some info here.
I had that happen on my stock radio and it was because I either didn't pull my antenna out or it was broken off. 2.4GHz doesn't have that issue normally. Check your antenna if its the 75mhz or whatever.
I had that happen on my stock radio and it was because I either didn't pull my antenna out or it was broken off. 2.4GHz doesn't have that issue normally. Check your antenna if its the 75mhz or whatever.
07-29-2014, 05:39 PM
#2043
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Jeez! I just read my last post and it sounded mean! Sorry about that. I remember when I was typing it, I was having trouble concentrating. I'm not like that, really!
Welcome Mike! It almost sounds like the battery in the car is dead. But I would assume you've charged it. Hmmm... What ESC/Motor/Radio/ systems are you running?
Welcome Mike! It almost sounds like the battery in the car is dead. But I would assume you've charged it. Hmmm... What ESC/Motor/Radio/ systems are you running?
07-30-2014, 02:08 PM
#2044
I'm having issues with radio signal loss on my duratrax evader ext..its upgraded to brushless and I'm running a 3s in it but recently it started acting like the batteries in the remote were going dead but they were brand new...it loses signal after a couple feet and only way to get the remote to work again is to shut the car off but then it does the same thing...I'm lost :-(
When I bought my first brushless system to install in the Evader, a Sidewinder Sv2, I had the same or similar radio range issue. Couldn't go more'n 10ft. HAD to upgrade the radio system to 2.4ghz to neutralize the problem. Problem being: the apparent HUGE amount of RF noise the brushless system radiated. It just stomped all over the RC radio frequency. So I'd guess it's either that, or your receiver antenna wire has an issue.
07-31-2014, 05:49 PM
#2046
Since we're on the subject of radios...I just installed a Fly Sky FS-GR3E Receiver in the ST Pro to use with my GT3C transmitter (I'm too cheap to fork out $80 for a Futaba reveiver). Now my EZRun 35A ESC won't go forward after I put it into reverse. Not a big deal. I just set the EZRun Fwd/Brake only now. It puzzles me a bit. The ESC flashes red / green when I pull on the trigger after going in reverse. I have calibrated four/five times.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
07-31-2014, 06:24 PM
#2047
That doesn't sound good! (Sorry, stating the obvious) Does it not move at all after going in reverse? Or does it stutter at all? If it's not stuttering, then I would have to think about it for a while. Have you tried disconnecting everything, resetting the ESC to factory, and then starting from scratch?
Oh...did you reset your radio trims to center or 0 before calibrating?
How old is the EZrun? Warranty still in effect?
Oh...did you reset your radio trims to center or 0 before calibrating?
How old is the EZrun? Warranty still in effect?
08-01-2014, 03:26 AM
#2048
After the rain...
A good 10 minute storm...moist track= little kid again
Ok, I just installed a new receiver and repositioned the wires with some 1992 hot pink "plastic thingys"
.... anyone know what they are called? Back in the day I used them on my RC10 "Stealth" to keep the wires together in the chassis. Now I'm looking for black ones.
Ok, I just installed a new receiver and repositioned the wires with some 1992 hot pink "plastic thingys"
08-01-2014, 04:15 AM
#2049
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these look about right http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGAR&P=7 nit exactly what you have but close enough.
08-01-2014, 02:07 PM
#2050
That doesn't sound good! (Sorry, stating the obvious) Does it not move at all after going in reverse? Or does it stutter at all? If it's not stuttering, then I would have to think about it for a while. Have you tried disconnecting everything, resetting the ESC to factory, and then starting from scratch?
Oh...did you reset your radio trims to center or 0 before calibrating?
How old is the EZrun? Warranty still in effect?
Oh...did you reset your radio trims to center or 0 before calibrating?
How old is the EZrun? Warranty still in effect?
now the truck runs in reverse when I pull the trigger. Then I thought about my 1/8 scale truggy I had, and that did the same thing. Those instructions said to reverse two of the brushless motor wires to reverse rotation of motor. That's what I ended up doing to the EZRun motor and recalibrate...PRESTO...the new radio and EZRun ESC work as it they should.