1/10 E-Revo
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1/10 E-Revo
I have a new E-Revo Brushless.....1st run on lipos.... no wheelie? I'm gonna try and tighten the slipper.....i put rpm arms on....rear integument skid....what other upgrades should I consider? What is the best liposuction for it?
Thanks
Thanks
#3
RE: 1/10 E-Revo
ORIGINAL: Traxxas_Man_KY
I have a new E-Revo Brushless.....1st run on lipos.... no wheelie? I'm gonna try and tighten the slipper.....i put rpm arms on....rear integument skid....what other upgrades should I consider? What is the best liposuction for it?
Thanks
I have a new E-Revo Brushless.....1st run on lipos.... no wheelie? I'm gonna try and tighten the slipper.....i put rpm arms on....rear integument skid....what other upgrades should I consider? What is the best liposuction for it?
Thanks
seriously though if you want wheelies jack up your suspension as high as possible to make it pop up easier.
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RE: 1/10 E-Revo
It's the Mamba Monster Brushless........ SpeedPack 4000 11.1 lipos 20C .......... I'm not really wanting out of control wheelies, just seems I wasn't getting full power. Maybe slipper needs tightened? I just want to set it up with all the upgrades I can to get the best performance out of it.
#7
RE: 1/10 E-Revo
ORIGINAL: Traxxas_Man_KY
It's the Mamba Monster Brushless........ SpeedPack 4000 11.1 lipos 20C .......... I'm not really wanting out of control wheelies, just seems I wasn't getting full power. Maybe slipper needs tightened? I just want to set it up with all the upgrades I can to get the best performance out of it.
It's the Mamba Monster Brushless........ SpeedPack 4000 11.1 lipos 20C .......... I'm not really wanting out of control wheelies, just seems I wasn't getting full power. Maybe slipper needs tightened? I just want to set it up with all the upgrades I can to get the best performance out of it.
Also are you running the batteries in series(6S) or parallel(3S)? I'm guessing parallel cause if it was series the truck should be able to flip literally standing still.
Also if its the one I linked so you batteries can't supply the current needed individually. By what you said your batteries are rated for 80 amps where the ESC needs 120 amps of current draw (to be safe). In parallel they would be ok, but you will be losing out on the speed.
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RE: 1/10 E-Revo
Tighten up the spring retainers on the rear shocks and it should wheelie... I wouldn't tighten up the slipper up too much, the mamba monster likes to eat spur gears if you're not to careful. Check out the BL E-Revo thread I started, not a lot of interest in them here but I think they are pretty cool.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10743136/tm.htm
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10743136/tm.htm
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RE: 1/10 E-Revo
ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM
is it this http://castlecreations.com/products/mamba_monster.html one?
Also are you running the batteries in series(6S) or parallel(3S)? I'm guessing parallel cause if it was series the truck should be able to flip literally standing still.
Also if its the one I linked so you batteries can't supply the current needed individually. By what you said your batteries are rated for 80 amps where the ESC needs 120 amps of current draw (to be safe). In parallel they would be ok, but you will be losing out on the speed.
ORIGINAL: Traxxas_Man_KY
It's the Mamba Monster Brushless........ SpeedPack 4000 11.1 lipos 20C .......... I'm not really wanting out of control wheelies, just seems I wasn't getting full power. Maybe slipper needs tightened? I just want to set it up with all the upgrades I can to get the best performance out of it.
It's the Mamba Monster Brushless........ SpeedPack 4000 11.1 lipos 20C .......... I'm not really wanting out of control wheelies, just seems I wasn't getting full power. Maybe slipper needs tightened? I just want to set it up with all the upgrades I can to get the best performance out of it.
Also are you running the batteries in series(6S) or parallel(3S)? I'm guessing parallel cause if it was series the truck should be able to flip literally standing still.
Also if its the one I linked so you batteries can't supply the current needed individually. By what you said your batteries are rated for 80 amps where the ESC needs 120 amps of current draw (to be safe). In parallel they would be ok, but you will be losing out on the speed.
It's this one.......
http://traxxas.com/products/models/e...erevobrushless
#10
RE: 1/10 E-Revo
ok same setup
now how are you connecting the batteries? series or parallel (take a pic of them plugged in and post it if you don't know the difference)
Cause only thing I can think of is either the batteries are not up to par (which they are not if its run in series), or you have them wired in parallel.
I run the 2200kv(same one as your revo) in a truggy on 4S and that sucker wants to flip at half throttle, and can pop wheelies at any point in acceleration easy.
now how are you connecting the batteries? series or parallel (take a pic of them plugged in and post it if you don't know the difference)
Cause only thing I can think of is either the batteries are not up to par (which they are not if its run in series), or you have them wired in parallel.
I run the 2200kv(same one as your revo) in a truggy on 4S and that sucker wants to flip at half throttle, and can pop wheelies at any point in acceleration easy.
#11
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RE: 1/10 E-Revo
ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM
ok same setup
now how are you connecting the batteries? series or parallel (take a pic of them plugged in and post it if you don't know the difference)
Cause only thing I can think of is either the batteries are not up to par (which they are not if its run in series), or you have them wired in parallel.
I run the 2200kv(same one as your revo) in a truggy on 4S and that sucker wants to flip at half throttle, and can pop wheelies at any point in acceleration easy.
ok same setup
now how are you connecting the batteries? series or parallel (take a pic of them plugged in and post it if you don't know the difference)
Cause only thing I can think of is either the batteries are not up to par (which they are not if its run in series), or you have them wired in parallel.
I run the 2200kv(same one as your revo) in a truggy on 4S and that sucker wants to flip at half throttle, and can pop wheelies at any point in acceleration easy.
#12
RE: 1/10 E-Revo
ORIGINAL: t9dragon
The E-Revo comes just like the Savage Flux.
ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM
ok same setup
now how are you connecting the batteries? series or parallel (take a pic of them plugged in and post it if you don't know the difference)
Cause only thing I can think of is either the batteries are not up to par (which they are not if its run in series), or you have them wired in parallel.
I run the 2200kv(same one as your revo) in a truggy on 4S and that sucker wants to flip at half throttle, and can pop wheelies at any point in acceleration easy.
ok same setup
now how are you connecting the batteries? series or parallel (take a pic of them plugged in and post it if you don't know the difference)
Cause only thing I can think of is either the batteries are not up to par (which they are not if its run in series), or you have them wired in parallel.
I run the 2200kv(same one as your revo) in a truggy on 4S and that sucker wants to flip at half throttle, and can pop wheelies at any point in acceleration easy.
I wasn't sure if traxxas used a parallel/series adapter that plugged into a traxxas plug like they do on other RC's.
but still in series those batteries aren't up to snuff then, and are probably the issue
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RE: 1/10 E-Revo
ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM
ok same setup
now how are you connecting the batteries? series or parallel (take a pic of them plugged in and post it if you don't know the difference)
Cause only thing I can think of is either the batteries are not up to par (which they are not if its run in series), or you have them wired in parallel.
I run the 2200kv(same one as your revo) in a truggy on 4S and that sucker wants to flip at half throttle, and can pop wheelies at any point in acceleration easy.
ok same setup
now how are you connecting the batteries? series or parallel (take a pic of them plugged in and post it if you don't know the difference)
Cause only thing I can think of is either the batteries are not up to par (which they are not if its run in series), or you have them wired in parallel.
I run the 2200kv(same one as your revo) in a truggy on 4S and that sucker wants to flip at half throttle, and can pop wheelies at any point in acceleration easy.
#14
RE: 1/10 E-Revo
ORIGINAL: Traxxas_Man_KY
It appears parallel.....my LHS ordered me a adapter cable to make them in series.
ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM
ok same setup
now how are you connecting the batteries? series or parallel (take a pic of them plugged in and post it if you don't know the difference)
Cause only thing I can think of is either the batteries are not up to par (which they are not if its run in series), or you have them wired in parallel.
I run the 2200kv(same one as your revo) in a truggy on 4S and that sucker wants to flip at half throttle, and can pop wheelies at any point in acceleration easy.
ok same setup
now how are you connecting the batteries? series or parallel (take a pic of them plugged in and post it if you don't know the difference)
Cause only thing I can think of is either the batteries are not up to par (which they are not if its run in series), or you have them wired in parallel.
I run the 2200kv(same one as your revo) in a truggy on 4S and that sucker wants to flip at half throttle, and can pop wheelies at any point in acceleration easy.
General rule of thumb to figure out the current draw of a pack
(mAh rating X C-rating)/1000=Amp rating
In your batteries case its (4000 X 20)/1000 which equals 80Amps
The MM 1/8th ESC is rated to pull 120 Amps. So you will need a set of batteries that is over 120A draw.
Only reason they worked in parallel is cause the 2 packs currents added together to be 160A total draw (half from each) but once they are in series it will be 80Amps
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RE: 1/10 E-Revo
Ive had my e revo for about 3 years and been racing it for a year with the truggys. The revo wiring to the monster esc is in series from the factory not parrell. 4000/20/ batterys are on the very edge of being too low continous power for the esc. Better to be safe than sorry...id say get some good quality 150 continus at least lipos (5000/30) I run 5000/35/3s and 2s.
ITs better to be too loose on your slipper than too tight when learning how to adjust it properly. If you tighen it down too much and have a heavy trigger finger, you will start doing alot of wear on the driveline. DOwn the road you will pay for it being too tight. The erevo relys on a properly set slipper to keep its driveline alive, its not as tough as the 1/8 buggy and truggy drivelines.
ITs better to be too loose on your slipper than too tight when learning how to adjust it properly. If you tighen it down too much and have a heavy trigger finger, you will start doing alot of wear on the driveline. DOwn the road you will pay for it being too tight. The erevo relys on a properly set slipper to keep its driveline alive, its not as tough as the 1/8 buggy and truggy drivelines.
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RE: 1/10 E-Revo
ORIGINAL: Mspeed
Ive had my e revo for about 3 years and been racing it for a year with the truggys. The revo wiring to the monster esc is in series from the factory not parrell. 4000/20/ batterys are on the very edge of being too low continous power for the esc. Better to be safe than sorry...id say get some good quality 150 continus at least lipos (5000/30) I run 5000/35/3s and 2s.
ITs better to be too loose on your slipper than too tight when learning how to adjust it properly. If you tighen it down too much and have a heavy trigger finger, you will start doing alot of wear on the driveline. DOwn the road you will pay for it being too tight. The erevo relys on a properly set slipper to keep its driveline alive, its not as tough as the 1/8 buggy and truggy drivelines.
Ive had my e revo for about 3 years and been racing it for a year with the truggys. The revo wiring to the monster esc is in series from the factory not parrell. 4000/20/ batterys are on the very edge of being too low continous power for the esc. Better to be safe than sorry...id say get some good quality 150 continus at least lipos (5000/30) I run 5000/35/3s and 2s.
ITs better to be too loose on your slipper than too tight when learning how to adjust it properly. If you tighen it down too much and have a heavy trigger finger, you will start doing alot of wear on the driveline. DOwn the road you will pay for it being too tight. The erevo relys on a properly set slipper to keep its driveline alive, its not as tough as the 1/8 buggy and truggy drivelines.
Thanks for all the help to this point!
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RE: 1/10 E-Revo
I run the Tenergy nano tech 2s/35/5000 and 3s/35/5000. They are inexpensive and can be combined in any fashion you wish to create a 5s or 4s or 6s powered truck. The weight is pretty low and the continous power is well within tolerances plus they can handle a very very high charge rate(more than most chargers could ever perform at). The fit is good except for the wires. I recommend just cutting a few of the fins out of the back cooling duct to let the wires go through there. They are probabaly the best bang for your buck. I have purchased some of the non nano tech tenergy's before that had some weak cells. I have not had that problem wtih the nano techs so far. If I would either pay the shipping and get the nano techs of your choice and mod the doors/back fins to fit if need be or pay for some quality thunder powers or hyperian batterys.