Rare

I got my Hobbywing Xerun 150amp system. I took it apart and im not sure how to waterproof this ESC. As you can see it has two circuit boards that dont seperate and the heat sink is not connected in any way. It does have that white sheet on it...dont know what it is. The top part of the case also has many vent holes to let water in, but i guess if i seal it good it wont matter right? And as you can see in the pictures the heat sink rest on top those silver bars.How will i use the heat sink once i waterproof over them?

I was thinking I could just dip the whole thing in plasti-dip, but what about those silver bars that the heatsink rests upon? is it ok to cover them? And how will i secure the heatsink once i do?

Brainanator

My Feedback: (1)

There are tons of youtube videos by various people and various methods.
You do not want to cover the silver bars the heat sinks rest on with plasti-dip, you still need thermal transfer. Does the heat sink easily pull off? Usually they are stuck on pretty good with a thermal compound.

Rare

My point in this post is to point out the dual circuit board and the heat sink issue. I know there are tons of vids out there. I was just shocked to see two circuit boards and a unsecured heat sink. I now realize i cant cover those bars as the heat sink draws heat from them. I was thinking of using a thermal adhesive to permanently secure the heat sink to those bars. Yes, the heat sink along with the white thermal pad comes right off.

pyromatic177

I see what you mean dude. what i would do is find a way to stick the heat sink to it. or just set the heat sink and thermal pad on where there supposed to go, and then put liquid tape all around it and then put it back together. cause i don't think that the heat sink will move around and break the seal of the liquid tape when it's all back toghether.

Rare

I came across this stuff [link]http://www.arcticsilver.com/ta.htm[/link] That should work with no problems right? Also, if you look closely along those silver bars there are those tiny chips in a row, but they are slightly lower than the bars. If you look at the thermal pad you will know what im talking about. But, im wondering if those tiny chips need to be in contact with the heat sink or if the manufaturer just made the thermal pad that way to make a level surface. If they also need to be in contact with the heat sink than id have to use a smaller seperate heat sink for those tiny chips, i cant use the same heat sink because there would be a very small gap in between.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

YES! You need to use either a stick-on pad MADE for heat-sink application OR that Arctic Silver heat-sink adhesive. That is ESSENTIAL. If the heat sink really "came off easily" and there is no clamp holding the heat sink to the PC board, that is not good and needs to be remedied. Once that issue is solved and the heat-sink is in place, you can apply Liquid Tape to the top of the PCB around the heat-sink and sealing around it's edges to prevent moisture from getting under the heat sink. Remove any Liquid Tape that gets on any part of the heat sink except its edges.

As for the double-stacked PCB, you could seal the space between the two by applying electrical tape along the edges, bridging the space, then sealing over that with Liquid Tape. Cover all exposed PCB with Liquid Tape. Be sure to seal well around all wire connections and connectors. Once the PCB is sealed, the holes in the case are irrelavent.

For sealing your Rx and servo, Plastic-Dip comes in a spray can, and seems to work well. Spray on a few coats, let dry, re-install, and off you go.

pyromatic177

You can get that glue on Amazon for like $5

Rare

EXT2Rob: Thanks for the awesome reply. Very helpful. I will be using the Arctic Silver adhesive. I will also see if i can find a stick-on pad. What do you think about the smaller circuits on the side of the silver bars?


pyromatic177: Im in luck, Radio Shack has it too.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

No problem there, Rare.  It's the components that actually make contact with the component-side of the heat-sink that matter.  (You're asking about the little black chips, right?)    Since you DO have the heat-sink off, you could CAREFULLY apply Liquid Tape (using a small art paint brush, not the gigantic one that comes in the bottle) to seal that side of the PCB, being careful not to get ANY on those components that contact the heat-sink.  But Once you install the heat-sink, I would still seal around its edges with Liquid Tape and that small brush, to keep moisture out from under tghe heat sink.  BTW, you don't need to use one of those self-stick heat-sink pads AND the Arctic Silver, just one or the other.  The important thing is, is to make sure the heat-sink is firmly attached and is not going to come loose.

I come from a computer background, so I'm familiar with how to properly use a heat-sink.  In your pictures, since you already had the heat-sink off, I could not tell how it attaches.  Was it, literally, stuck-on with that heat-transfer tape? Or was there also a heat-sink clamp over the top (or thru) the heat-sink, holding it to the PCB or case?   That heat-trans tape sticks those heat-sinks on pretty good.  The Arctic Silver stuff I used at work was not an adhesive and we used heat-sink clamps to hold the sink to the motherboard.

Rob

Rare

So, i can just cover those black chips with the liquid tape? They dont need to be in contact with the heat sink? Only the silver bars need to be in contact than?

Its not tape. Its like a thermal pad or something. It came off very easily without any restriction. There is no adhesive at all on the pad. The heat sink itself was actually stuck in the upper part of the ESC case when i took it apart. Leaving the thermal pad behind stuck to the board. There was no clamp either.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

AHHH, ok..... so it's the CASE that is acting as a hold-down strap. Feh! That's ok......as long as the Arctic Silver is a true adhesive you'll be fine. Be carefull not to use too much goo...you'll still have to get the case to close since it acts as a heat-sink hold-down. Get too much in there and you might not get the case to close all the way. Iwould smear a little compound on EACH of the three metal things, covering each evenly. Carefully align the heat-sink such that the case will fit over the assembly after it dries. Once you set it down, don't move it! Let it dry. If you have to remove it, apply a little more compound.

And you are right, those little black chips don't need to contact the heat-sink, just the "three metal bars" as you call them.

Good luck!

Rare

Radio Shack only has the compund. I guess i have to get it online.

Also, i dont if I should get the alumina adhesive or the silver adhesive. The alumina adhesive wont short any circuits out in case it gets on the pins, but doesnt transfer heat as well as the silver. The silver is also twice as much, but you have to be twice as careful when using it.

tacx

My Feedback: (1)

"Corrosion X" Check it out, Great stuff. Look it up on youtube

pyromatic177

Only prob is that corrosion x is a very high water repelent. it'll keep water out 90%, so it's not a complete waterproofer

Rare

Ive seen those corossion x videos. Seems like it would work, but for how long? Plasti dip seems like a one and done deal. I did however pick up a regular trigger spray bottle and a aerosol can of corossion x this weekend. Great stuff to spray on rc after getting wet and just great to have around, you never know when youre gonna need it.

tacx

My Feedback: (1)

I have had my seaplanes crash in the water and sit there, with all the electronics underwater for 10 to 20 minutes while I boat out to rescue them, and have not lost anything yet. Still using the ESCs and RXs in other planes.

The thing I don't like about sealing up the ESCs is that it lessens the cooling, and electronics don't like heat. The heat will eventually kill them.

pyromatic177

Yes, that's definetily one downfall of waterproofing. Heat is the enemy

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

get the ESC the way you want with the heat sink and all. Then once it is the way you want use epoxy and seal the whole thing but leave the heaty sink fins exposed. use a thinned epoxy so that it fills in all the gaps. This is how most electronics for water craft are done.

Sunfirefoot

My Feedback: (30)

Liquid tape by Performix is good stuff, I picked up 3 jars for $12!!!! Beats the hell out of replacing the ESC!!! Just make sure you use it in a well ventilated area, unless you like getting a buzz from acetone LOL!!!!!

Rare

So many opinions on how to waterproof...now im confused. Liquid tape, corossion x or epoxy? The bad thing about epoxy is once you do it it cant be undone. So, its between liquid tape and corossion x.....

pyromatic177

Do liquid tape. it's like dipping it in rubber

Rare

Im concerned about heat issues too...i kind of want to try the corossion x. It has been proven to work and a ton of boat people swear by it...hmmmmm....

pure speed:]

i'll tell you what rare i ues Corrosion X and it makes me f n laugh every time i hear people say its only water repellent . Its 100% waterproof i have prolly 100 runs in the snow just this winter alone on my MMM revo with not one hicup look at my profile pic for proof .i need a cam and put it on you tube lol

Rare

Well, i should get the heat sink adhesive in a couple of days. Once i get it and install the heat sink i will post some pics. Once the heat sink is installed, i will than waterproof it.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Don't stress too much about what product to use. Just weigh the pluses and minuses. Iliked the Liquid Tape because it dries quickly and can be cut/peeled from places it ain't suposed to be. Iwould suggest, however, that you pick up one of those IR thermometers to monitor your motor and ESC temps untill you get your gearing dialed in. Gear it too tall and your ESC will get hotter, too low and the motor gets hot. You want to find a balance. Brushless motors should run around 125-150 degrees (max 180) and the ESC should be 130 or less. Temps will depend on ambient air/ground temps. Right now (California Winter) my Sidewinder system is running only 110 motor, 125 ESC. During Summer, Irun with a fan on the ESC.