Mr Smiley

I believe Ive made the decision on the R/C Truck Im getting. Ive setteled on the HPI Savage Flux HP. I really wanted a Kit, but this for right now will work. And as I have read a little this truck will come apart and get a lock-tite treatment. Now I have a few questions.

Since i plan to come down with this truck, are there any upgrades that would make sense to do now rather then wait? Is there a allen screw kit so the Philips screws can go away? What would be a good starter battery? 2S Lipo or a 3S Lipo? And who would be a a good manfacture to get these from. What would be a good Charger?

Im just looking to have a good time and make some sane jumps to start. I have a large field behind the house that I plan to lear to drive this thing.

BKoz559

My Feedback: (3)

Initially you dont' really need any mods as long as you don't run 6S.

Start with 2, 2S 5000 or greater, 30C or greater LiPo packs. With 4S power you will **** your pants over how quick it is. If you've never seen anything like it before then it's a bit intimidating at first. I recommend driving in a wide open area free of obstructions with few bumps. Get used to the power first then go find some small bumps to jump over.

There are many mods, upgrades and such that you can install. I don't know if HPI has changed over to the BP diffs but, it was an upgrade I had to install as my truck came with "standard"diffs. If you compare the two side by side, the 29/9 diffs have much larger teeth and are truly bullet proof. You'll want to consider your next body because the stock one is going to get trashed quickly.

Mr Smiley

So if I understand when I have Two 2S Batteries that is the same as one 4S battery? And if I use two 3S Batteries that will result in the equivilant of a single 6S Battery? If this is so then two 2S batteries it is for me. How long will two 2S @ 5000mAh 40C last? And what brand would be reccomended?

Thanks

Smiley

pyromatic177

2s+2s=4s so yeah. And spC make the best bang for your buck imo. They are very good quality, Very 

BKoz559

My Feedback: (3)

With 5300 packs Iget around 25-30 minutes, depending on how aggressive Idrive and where I drive the truck.

Mr Smiley

So it seems like I want to stay above 5000 mAh. I think that is dooable.

Is there a screw kit out there that includes allen head screws to replace the philips head screws?

BKoz559

My Feedback: (3)

Ifound these screws. They would be a nice touch but, aren't necessary. The stock ones haven't caused issue for me.

The important thing to consider when shopping for batteries is the amperage they can continuously supply. HPI's website says the ESC draws 120A, but doesn't specify the max current. So, you need batteries that can continuously supply atleast 120A of current. 5000mah packs at 25C = 125A which puts you in the "safe zone." Even 4000mah, 30C packs would meet the minimum requirements at 120A. However, that's cutting it close and the runtime would be less, probably more like 15minutes. In my example, Irun 5300mah, 25C batteries which gives me 132.5A of available current.

A greater "C" rating along with the mah rating of the pack gives more available current. More doesn't hurt and won't necessarilly make the truck faster; that's limited by the ESC's current draw and motor limitations. Not having enough available current will destroy the batteries and possibly your motor and ESC.

Also, Ihighly recommend this in conjunction with this or even this by itself. The field car is more convenient but the USB link is more detailed. They will help you adjust your ESC's settings. You can tone down the "punch" control initially while you start out. The truck will want to wheelie and do backflips all the time otherwise. Lastly, tighten the adjustment screw on the clutch as far as it will go. If the clutch is too loose then you'll probably burn it up in the first 5 minutes.