Henryslash

Hi

I sent for hobbywing esc 60a and a new motor it came in a kit but it didnt work so good, for example it would run maybe 200 m then stop responding, the steering worked but not the motor. When i switched it off and straight back on again it worked again for 200 m then the same thing happend. After i done this 4 or 5 times i could run it but it would speed up and then go at half power and then speed up and half power etc.

also when you do get it moving normally and then you pump the trigger throttle on the transmitter 4 or 5 time in succession it will start to run at half power.

I decided to buy an orion esc and got the vortex r10 sport from JE MODELS in the Uk .

When i opened the package i was surprised and a bit annoyed that it looked the same as the hobby wing one so i phoned JE models to be told that the software and firmware was different and that it was much better etc etc and so on.

Today i hooked up the orion and guess what? The exact same problem is happening.

Do you think it is the esc or the motor at fault? Any ideas?

Im loosing the will to live and cant believe how difficult something is that should be so simple.

Please help

SyCo_VeNoM

sounds like the battery isn't up to par to power the truck, and kicking in the LVC.

Is it a lipo or NiMh?

If its NiMh, and the LVC is on with how bad they drop under load that would do exactly what you describe.
Or if its lipo, and not a high enough C-rating it would also do that (and damage the battery)

Henryslash

Hi Syco

Yea it is nimh but they are fully charged.

Would this cause the power to goto about half if you pump the trottle 4 or 5 times?

The Hedgehog

You can assume the ESC is okay because it would be EXTREMELY rare you received 2 faulty ones.

Can be the motor
Can be the NiMH (try a lipo I have never had luck with NiMH and brushless, more headaches than worth)
Can be your radio setup (brushless does not play well with non 2.4 ghz systems a lot of times, especially with NiMH)

Just swap components one at a time until you find the problem.

Henryslash

Hi

The Mad Modder

Definitely sounds like the battery. What's the mah rating of your batteries. Nimh and nicad batteries work fine with brushless However, if the battery isn't rated for enough amperage, the motor won't be able to run long on it and it won't have its full power.

SyCo_VeNoM

Turn the LVC off on the ESC

NiMh's voltage drops A LOT when under load(specially the smaller ones), and are probably dipping below the 6.2volts that the LVC is set at by default for lipo use. Which is causeing that erratic behavior you described. That behavior is actually intended for lipo users that don't pay any attention to battery voltage so they don't run it below 3 volts which would damage the lipo.

Honestly depending on the RC any NiMh under 5000 mAh's will probably have a short lifespan as those suckers can pull well over 60A's.

Henryslash

the batteries i am using are traxxas powercell8.4v 3300mah and 8.4v 4200mah nimh

SyCo_VeNoM

the LVC is DEFINITELY the issue then
its detecting your batteries as a deplete 3S lipo
turn it off with the program card and you should be ok

Henryslash

Thanks all

Haddi Taha

definetly lvc thats causing the problem with your nimh , make sure you always have it on when your use the lipos

Henryslash

Hi

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

providing you have the programming card, set the "punch control" to Level 9, that is about the only way you can dial-back the power. (Unless HW has come out with PC software that I'm unaware of.....in which case you might be able to play with the throttle curve and REALLY dial back the power like you can on Castle systems)

BTW, Isaw an ad for an Orion Vortex R10 ESC and it looks exactly like my EZrun.

You CAN run NiMhs on a brushless system by disabling the LVC, but you WILL ruin the battery eventually. They just aren't built to provide the current BL motors demand. My NiMhs got so hot, they melted the shrink wrap, and eventually they wouldn't hold a charge anymore, and got tossed.

Henryslash

Hey

Haddi Taha

Ahhhhh, level 9 punch setting is the fastest setting and makes your batteries work harder. I would dial is back to 1-5 punch for nimh batteries.

Sounds like a gear box issue. Check for damaged gears, missing screws, seized bearings, anything out of the normal. Also check if the motor mount screw came loose causing the motor to come closer to the spur gear resulting in a tight gear mesh. If your unsure, take some pictures so we can assist further

Best of Luck, I hope the damage is minimal

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Are we sure about that?  I had my punch control set at 6 and changed it to 2 the other day, and it seemed to make it "punchier".  I thought it was the higher the setting, the more "control", and the lower setting, less "control".

Sounds to me like you stripped a diff gear.

Haddi Taha

Open the link, go to programmable items table and the punch 9 says very aggresive, the punch 1 says soft. In my experience the punch makes a big difference to the acceleration of the car, higher punch causes my touring car to be unsettled on take off

http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=253

phmaximus

U can use the EPA To limit the power, a easy way is to set a few profiles, one for adults, one for kids in grass and one for kids on smoothe surfaces.... Or get a traxxas TQi and with a iPod docked u can set up training mode, it's fully adjustable with 100 points of adjustment

Henryslash

Sorry but what is an EPA?

SyCo_VeNoM

End Point Adjustment
basically how far you want it to go generally used for servos



Easiest cheap way to limit the throttle(if your controller don't support the EPA) tape a piece of foam behind the trigger

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

D'OH! OK, is there an emoticon for "Egg On Face"?

Haddi Taha

haha don't think so

jrowles91

It's the LVC shutting the esc down. I had this same issue. It's because the esc doesn't read cells it reads voltage and NiMh have severe voltage drop which puts it into safety mode. Not a problem just need lipos.