Going brushless for cheap
03-03-2013, 10:34 PM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Salinas (Wuxi, China),
CA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Going brushless for cheap
How does the Leopard match up? Im guessing you get what you pay for, but... the numbers look good.
Leopard Brushless Combo
http://www.rcmart.com/leopard-sk3000...o-p-35802.html
Leopard Brushless Combo
http://www.rcmart.com/leopard-sk3000...o-p-35802.html
03-04-2013, 05:59 AM
#29
RE: Going brushless for cheap
ORIGINAL: Salinas Hawk
How does the Leopard match up? Im guessing you get what you pay for, but... the numbers look good.[img][/img]
Leopard Brushless Combo
http://www.rcmart.com/leopard-sk3000...o-p-35802.html
How does the Leopard match up? Im guessing you get what you pay for, but... the numbers look good.[img][/img]
Leopard Brushless Combo
http://www.rcmart.com/leopard-sk3000...o-p-35802.html
But the higher KV one you are looking at might work better. The buggy I had mine in was geared low from the factory and that didnt help. Had I used a higher KV motor it might have worked better.
The ESC is nice and slim, programs easy and didnt give me any issues.
If hobbypartz.com had them in stock, Id buy another. Perfect for 2wd's or light 4wd's. Cheaper than replacing a stock brushed system, and still faster.
03-04-2013, 06:01 AM
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: central,
NJ
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Going brushless for cheap
Just out of curiousity how is the rest of the stuff on hobby parts. I see they have radio systems and lipo batteries.
03-04-2013, 04:47 PM
#31
RE: Going brushless for cheap
I own the majority of the flysky ground based radios carieties (don't own a gt3c, and the new one with telemetry), and cant complain about the performance as only one needed minor repairs after a year of use (and the repairs cost me like a nickle to do with 5-10 mins of time)
batteries I own a few of the tiny sky lipos as I needed em for something in particular that used small batteries(also own 2 for the flysky radios which I modded to take 3S lipos), and a gensace. can't complain on them either
only thing that ROYALLY sucks about the site is how long they take to get things in stock... I mean seriously they will be out of stock on some things for MONTHS with no updates.
batteries I own a few of the tiny sky lipos as I needed em for something in particular that used small batteries(also own 2 for the flysky radios which I modded to take 3S lipos), and a gensace. can't complain on them either
only thing that ROYALLY sucks about the site is how long they take to get things in stock... I mean seriously they will be out of stock on some things for MONTHS with no updates.
03-09-2013, 02:10 PM
#32
RE: Going brushless for cheap
My buddy and I both have Fly Sky radios, and a good number of Gens Ace LiPos. Can't complain about any of them.
But yeah, when you see something in stock you want, better get it, or you could be waiting months, and months. But the prices keep me coming back.
But yeah, when you see something in stock you want, better get it, or you could be waiting months, and months. But the prices keep me coming back.
03-09-2013, 08:07 PM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: America
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Going brushless for cheap
I am also trying to go brushless for cheap (for my brushed slash) and I have good faith in Hobbywing's ezruns. Problem is, I am having diffuculty finding a WATERPROOF combo that is in stock. Can anybody help me out? I was also looking at Tacon motors if I dont get a combo.
03-10-2013, 09:07 AM
#34
RE: Going brushless for cheap
Yeah, seems HW is a little behind the times when it comes to waterproof electronics. However, it's not too difficult to make this EZrun ESC water resistant, or "splash-proof", as they say. Fortunately, most of the circuit board is already well protected. It's just the edges that are a little exposed. I used Liquid Tape and a small hobby paint brush to seal around the base of the heatsink, and coat the exposed parts of the circuit board and connectors. I still wouldn't run the car into a lake, but I don't worry if I happen to run into some wet grass.
03-10-2013, 09:15 AM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: America
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Going brushless for cheap
They do have a few waterproof escs. I love crawling around in water so it is a must, guess i'll have to buy one and pair it to a Tacon. Just dont want to do too much soddering. How would you match Amps to Kv?
03-10-2013, 01:47 PM
#36
RE: Going brushless for cheap
ORIGINAL: -JBLKING-
They do have a few waterproof escs. I love crawling around in water so it is a must, guess i'll have to buy one and pair it to a Tacon. Just dont want to do too much soddering. How would you match Amps to Kv?
They do have a few waterproof escs. I love crawling around in water so it is a must, guess i'll have to buy one and pair it to a Tacon. Just dont want to do too much soddering. How would you match Amps to Kv?
KV is a multiplier used to figure out the RPM, Amps is how much current is pulled. I have 4000kv motors that are 35Amps, and I have 65Amp variations. I even have a 90A 3500kv motor to just throw out there for examples.
agree with EXT2Rob about ordering from there though I've been waiting for over a month for them to get something in stock, and they are literally the only place I seen to sell it(not even on ebay...). Last time I waited for them to get a motor in stock for 3 months, and ended up ordering a similar one from hobbyking instead, paid the slow shipping(took over a month to deliver), and hobbypartz STILL didn't have the thing in stock even after I got the HK motor...
03-10-2013, 01:53 PM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: America
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Going brushless for cheap
So I have no experience with BL systems whatsoever the amp and kv ratings are near meaningless to me. what should I consider about them when selecting my ESC, motor, and possibly pairing with a battery?
03-10-2013, 06:46 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: America
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Going brushless for cheap
well, that is why these forums are here to aid and correct me along.
I believe ESC amp ratings signify the max output to the motor in constant or burst (need to research more on constant and burst) and the motor kv ratings rate how high the max rpms (when calculated) can be. A smaller amp rated ESC would not be able to efficiently power a larger KV rated motor. Also on hobby wing, the following batt recommendations are shown herehttp://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=278.
Suitable Brushless Motor:
With 6 cells NiMH/NiCd or 2S Lipo: KV≤6000;
With 7-9 cells NiMH/NiCd or 3S Lipo: KV≤4000;
With 10-12 cells NiMH/NiCd or 4S Lipo: KV≤3000;
So logically, a higher kv motor would want to pull more power and when off balancing a battery and motor pair, efficiency will not be achieved.
Correct me if I am wrong, it is my first stab at this stuff (we dont have brushless motors for airsoft)
I am also on a quest for the Hobby Wing ezRun Combo-SC-C1, out of stock in most places. Anybody recommend a reliable seller?
I believe ESC amp ratings signify the max output to the motor in constant or burst (need to research more on constant and burst) and the motor kv ratings rate how high the max rpms (when calculated) can be. A smaller amp rated ESC would not be able to efficiently power a larger KV rated motor. Also on hobby wing, the following batt recommendations are shown herehttp://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=278.
Suitable Brushless Motor:
With 6 cells NiMH/NiCd or 2S Lipo: KV≤6000;
With 7-9 cells NiMH/NiCd or 3S Lipo: KV≤4000;
With 10-12 cells NiMH/NiCd or 4S Lipo: KV≤3000;
So logically, a higher kv motor would want to pull more power and when off balancing a battery and motor pair, efficiency will not be achieved.
Correct me if I am wrong, it is my first stab at this stuff (we dont have brushless motors for airsoft)
I am also on a quest for the Hobby Wing ezRun Combo-SC-C1, out of stock in most places. Anybody recommend a reliable seller?
03-25-2013, 05:32 AM
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: central,
NJ
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Going brushless for cheap
So here's an update. I got it and I ended up installing it in my rc10t because it has metal gears did not wanna ruin the tranny on my pede. And even on a nimh battery it's awesome. Of coarse I had to turn off low voltage protection and turn the punch down. But when I get lipo I think I'm going to be impressed even more
03-27-2013, 10:30 AM
#41
RE: Going brushless for cheap
ORIGINAL: -JBLKING-
So I have no experience with BL systems whatsoever the amp and kv ratings are near meaningless to me. what should I consider about them when selecting my ESC, motor, and possibly pairing with a battery?
So I have no experience with BL systems whatsoever the amp and kv ratings are near meaningless to me. what should I consider about them when selecting my ESC, motor, and possibly pairing with a battery?
As for the KV rating of the motor, it sorta depends on what you want to do with it. If you're just looking to do speed runs up an down your street, get a higher KV motor. 4000KV or more. If you're going to be driving off-road, or racing on a track, you might want something in the 3000-3500KV range. Generally, lower KV means lower RPM/volt, but higher torque.
As for batteries, get the highest C-rating you can afford. The C-rating of a LiPo is an indicator of how much current (Amps) it can safely supply without overheating. In all things electronic, heat is bad. If after a run, your battery is very warm (over 100F) then it is being stressed, and it will reduce it's lifetime. Where in my car, a 40C pack stays cool, the same pack in a bigger car will get hot, so you'd need to go up in C-rating. Say 50-60C in order to keep it from being stressed. Get yourself an IR temp gun for monitoring ESC/Motor/battery temps.
03-27-2013, 07:04 PM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: America
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Going brushless for cheap
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
You really have to consider the weight of your vehicle. Big difference between say, a Slash &an Evader. The Evader only weighs 3.5lbs. The Slash can be double that or more. You wouldn't want to run the 35A ESC 380-sized motor combo Irun in my Evader, in your Slash. I'd guess at least a 65A or 85A (or even 120A if it's 4wd) with a 550-sized motor for a vehicle as big as a Slash.
As for the KV rating of the motor, it sorta depends on what you want to do with it. If you're just looking to do speed runs up an down your street, get a higher KV motor. 4000KV or more. If you're going to be driving off-road, or racing on a track, you might want something in the 3000-3500KV range. Generally, lower KV means lower RPM/volt, but higher torque.
As for batteries, get the highest C-rating you can afford. The C-rating of a LiPo is an indicator of how much current (Amps) it can safely supply without overheating. In all things electronic, heat is bad. If after a run, your battery is very warm (over 100F) then it is being stressed, and it will reduce it's lifetime. Where in my car, a 40C pack stays cool, the same pack in a bigger car will get hot, so you'd need to go up in C-rating. Say 50-60C in order to keep it from being stressed. Get yourself an IR temp gun for monitoring ESC/Motor/battery temps.
ORIGINAL: -JBLKING-
So I have no experience with BL systems whatsoever the amp and kv ratings are near meaningless to me. what should I consider about them when selecting my ESC, motor, and possibly pairing with a battery?
So I have no experience with BL systems whatsoever the amp and kv ratings are near meaningless to me. what should I consider about them when selecting my ESC, motor, and possibly pairing with a battery?
As for the KV rating of the motor, it sorta depends on what you want to do with it. If you're just looking to do speed runs up an down your street, get a higher KV motor. 4000KV or more. If you're going to be driving off-road, or racing on a track, you might want something in the 3000-3500KV range. Generally, lower KV means lower RPM/volt, but higher torque.
As for batteries, get the highest C-rating you can afford. The C-rating of a LiPo is an indicator of how much current (Amps) it can safely supply without overheating. In all things electronic, heat is bad. If after a run, your battery is very warm (over 100F) then it is being stressed, and it will reduce it's lifetime. Where in my car, a 40C pack stays cool, the same pack in a bigger car will get hot, so you'd need to go up in C-rating. Say 50-60C in order to keep it from being stressed. Get yourself an IR temp gun for monitoring ESC/Motor/battery temps.
I got a VXL system lightly used for cheap a installed it in the slash. Too bad It has the awful lipo cutoff problem where it cutsoff way too early
so I turned it off. I also got my first lipo, a Tenergy 11.1v (3c) 25c 5000mah. Im guessing it lasts 30min but I want to play it safe since im running without LVC. Can anyone give me a good run time estimate for the lipo? Problems aside, the vxl is decent, havent done regular temp checks. Somebody said 3c might be too much for the VXL but ive never had temp probs yet. I just need better tires to hook up and stop spinning or adjust the slipper.
03-28-2013, 07:44 AM
#43
RE: Going brushless for cheap
I would suggest you get an external LVC or at least a timer. a 5000mah pack should last 20min. 25C is a little low, the battery might get warm. But as long as it doesn't get over 100F you'll prolly be ok.
That system has a known "early cut off" issue? Bummer.
That system has a known "early cut off" issue? Bummer.
03-28-2013, 10:58 AM
#44
RE: Going brushless for cheap
The Velineon system can handle 3S power but it will get warmer. It's difficult to gage run-time because factors such as; gearing, tye type of terrain you drive on, your driving style and the weight of the vehicle will effect it. A 5300mAh pack in my B4 will last45 minutes or more while the same pack in my EXO lasts about 20-25.
03-28-2013, 06:30 PM
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: America
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Going brushless for cheap
Yea that VXL problem is somewhat common. the cutoff is random but a nuisance when it cuts off instantaneously and Traxxas support is no help whatsoever. I think i worked out the problem once but ran into it again when i had to reset the ESC. I'll play around with it a bit more, if it wasnt water proof, i would have ditched it already. Anybody recommend an external LVC? One i can waterproof preferably. The novak is discontinued.
25c is low eh? My batt shows no signs of heating up at all. What voltage should i be draining it to? 8.4v?
25c is low eh? My batt shows no signs of heating up at all. What voltage should i be draining it to? 8.4v?
03-29-2013, 04:51 AM
#46
RE: Going brushless for cheap
I had a castle 5700 in my 2wd pede for a bit. It could run speeds the same as my slash on a sct system. temps at about 145 degrees also I was using proline badlands that are a little bigger than stock. Thing was a monster for the weight. Handling was more the issue. I also have yet to test my nitro to brushless converted rustler with the same sct system in it. same badlands, same 2s lipo.
