BKoz559

My Feedback: (3)

Oh really. In that case lots of parts are available and are easy to find. Goto your nearest hobby shop and they probably have that clutch pad hanging on the wall.

jwalk33

Hi all,

I just recieved this motor today and was wondering if anyone knew of a good free place to list and sell it other than craigslist, amazom, or ebay?



Turnigy TrackStar 2650kvBrushless motor

Specs:

Size:41x68
Kv:2650
Poles:6

Max Amps:129A
Max Volts:17v
Max Watts:2200w

Idle Current:4.5A
Resistance (Ri):6.2
Shaft size:5mm

<colgroup><col width="173" /> <col width="65" /> </colgroup>

Kv (rpm/v)	2650
Weight (g)	330
Max Current (A)	129
Resistance (mh)	0
Max Voltage (V)	17
Power(W)	2200
Shaft A (mm)	5
Length B (mm)	69
Diameter C (mm)	41
Can Length D (mm)	62
Total Length E (mm)	85

Thanks,
Jwalk33

jwalk33

Hi again all,

This might be a really crazy question but its bothering me to know the answer, so I'll just ask.

I have an old Tekin TSC 420-G2 ESC that my uncle used years ago while drag racing RC cars with his friends.

I was looking at the specs/manual of the ESC and noticed that it said it could handle any where from 4-20 cells (sure this is for NIHMS/NICDS). I am just wondering if this ESC could potentially handle a 2 or 3 cell lipo by any chance ?

Here are the specs/manual of the ESC:



Thanks,
Jwalk33

BKoz559

My Feedback: (3)

Yes it could handle the voltage. The problem is that it wont have a cut off so you can accidentally over discharge your LiPo batteries. You can get alarms that will alert you when the voltage is low. Its up to you to stop driving at that point.

jwalk33

Lol, I hooked it up and ran it on the 3 cell lipo but only ran it for about a minute because its midnight here and cold out. It seemed to drag a bit like something was holding it back, maybe its a drag brake setting or something on the ESC. It does not want to coast at all once i let off the throttle and seems a bit rough on the trrottle too.

I have an old epic modified motor on it that i also got from my uncle. i think the motor might be around 9 turns i think, ill post back tomorrow with my findings. I also felt the motor and it was getting quite hot, i don't think it will hold up long at all; however i thought the idea was kool and glad i was able to get my uncle's old drag race ESC back in action 4 a little while until the rest of my stuff comes in the mail.

Much quicker from the quick test run than running the nicd 7.2v pack. I don't want to damage the lipo so i will probably not run it again.



Jwalk33

jwalk33

ok ran the car again this afternoon and it seems ok, other than the motor getting hot which i do not mind cause its so old.

Just wonder why I only get about 5 minutes run time then it gets slower with 3 cell 4000mAh 54-90 burst ?




Thanks,
Jwalk33

BKoz559

My Feedback: (3)

The ESCcan handle the voltage but the motor probably can't. If it's been sitting for a while then the commutator could have oxidation which will reduce efficiency and increase load. After running the 3S on it and allowing it to get hot, you may have damaged the coils. A dead motor will act like a resistor and suck up a lot of current. It could even act like a short circuit and casue the ESCto shut down for protection.

jwalk33

Hi,


Yea I think the motor died, however I took my XTM X Terminator 2 to the LHS (20 minutues away) and he traded me that Turnigy TrackStar 2350 1/8 scale for a Lepoard LBP36503300KV motor. He had the motor priced at $79.99.

Whish I could run this motor with the Tekin ESC. Can't wait to get the rest of my shipment.



Thanks,
J.Walk33

jwalk33

Hi all,

Looking at the specs of this Lepoard Hobby (Redcat Racing)3300kv brushless motor, I don't believe it will give me the speed that I'm looking for (50mph in a short distance/drag race). Maybe I didn't make the best deal overall.

Judgeing by the specs do you guys think I can reach my goal with 3 cell lipo @ 4000mAhs and 45-90 burst rate, with proper gearing?

What are you guys's thoughts on this? I have the option to possibly trade for something better back to my LHS dealer if I foot a few extra bils, or sell it on ebay or amazon.



Thanks,
Jwalk33

BKoz559

My Feedback: (3)

You can go beyond your goal of 50MPHwith 3S and correct gearing. You might be able to do it with 2S

jwalk33

Ok thanks, I will probably just keep the motor then.

I'm ordering pinion gears today, what pitch do you all feel will be best for fast speed runs?


Thanks,
Jwalk33

jwalk33

Hi all,

jwalk33

Hi again,

I got the gear box apart and none of the gears are damaged at, however the I think the problem is within the RT and LF Diff drives, maybe the Diff Thrust Spring. I sat this because all gears will spin one another but neither Diff side RT or Left will spin with the gears.

What are you all's thoughts on this, I'd really like to get this fixed ASAP and possibly order the part(s) tonight or tomorrow.

In addition, what do you all feel caused this problem, I know the car is cheap and all but I wasn't bashing it hard, only going from dead start to full throttle. Never even heard or saw any sign that any parts were under stress.

Would've posted link to manual if anyone wanted to take a peek at the tranny innerworkings but i was unfortunate in locating one online.




Thanks,
Jwalk33

BKoz559

My Feedback: (3)

The gear pitch is 48-pitch, which is pretty much standard for 1/10 vehicles. Are you asking for gear sizes?

Also, the other problem you're having is probably your slipper clutch. Test it when the transmission is assembled by pushing the truck on the floor by hand. If the motor doesn't spin then the clutch is way too loose. Tighten the nut about a 1/4 - 1/2 turn and try to drive the truck under its own power. If the motor revs up without moving the truck then tighten the clutch nut in 1/8-1/4 turn incriments until the truck starts to drive. The clutch should have some give so don't lock it down too tight.

If this truck has a ball differential then it's possible that it could have come out of adjustment also. The general rule of thumb is to tighten the adjustment screw all the way in until it stops then back off about 1/4 turn. It shouldn't feel too gritty or tight when you try to twist it. I wouldn't back off more than 1/2-3/4 turn from fully tightened.

jwalk33

I am asking what's the best gear pitch for drag/street racing.

I think I found the problem with the gearbox, the gear inside (diff gear) the left and right and left diff drives seems to have worn out, I believe I've found an solid one piece aluminum deaf gear to replace it. The stock one is actually 2 pieces.

I also think that the diff thrust spring could be the culprit maybe.



Thanks,
Jwalk33

BKoz559

My Feedback: (3)

Ok, you're talking about gear ratios. Since you've been using 17/87, try a pinion with more than 20 teeth. If you only run on the street then you can try to go as tall as 30/72; or somewhere close to that. That's REALLY tall and will cause your equipment to run hot. You can try it if your ultimate goal is maximum speed in a straight line. Otherwise to maintain driveability without killing your electronics then start with a pinion in the mid 20s against the same spur gear. You can try taking the spur down a notch after that to a low 80 tooth count, maybe low 20s pinion with a 81T spur.

jwalk33

Ok thaks, but should I use 32, 48, or 64pitch ?

jwalk33

Got the new transmission/gearbox gears in today and want to start rebuilding however I forgot to order grease for the gears and bearings. Does anyone know of a good substitute that I can use? LHS is about 20-30 miles away and not open today, and don't want to wait for oder/shipping.