Exo Terra build questions and comments
The dogbones seem kinda short. I read something about the short dog bones should be replaced, or adding an o-ring... Don't remember exactly.
As for putting parts on backwards, we've all done it. I was showing off my Xray XT8 build a long while ago, and some genius pointed out I had the rear hubs on backwards. It happens with some parts that can be placed either way. My personal favorite is when someone asks why their front and rear wheels turn in opposite directions and the car tries to dig itself a hole on the spot (this is caused by putting one of the diffferentials in the wrong way round, which oddly, most kits will allow you to do ).
As far as the O ring trivk is concerned, guys have been putting them in the axle cup to take out some slack. I havent done this to mine yet but I also havent got too wild with mine yet. I hear that it happens when you jump a lot. Alternatively you can upgrade to CVD axles.
Smooth sailing on the Exo build so far. The hardware is in labeled bags from A-J, in perfect order as you need the parts so far, step 12.
the plastic trees have sent me on a few goose chases, but no big deal.
One tip, don't take any small plastic pieces off the trees without remembering the part number because you can't always depend on the diagram to distinguish what's what.
The O-rings I use for taking the slack out of dogbones are for .15 nitro carbies, 6mm diameter abnout 1.5 thick. I find fuel tube offers a fraction more compression then the O-rings. Shock o-rings are the same size from Traxxas , duratrax or Acme shocks, sure other brands will have the same size in there stock.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=18150467982
No Tekin, I plan to try Tekin out when I get a 1/8 scale buggy.
3500-4500KV should be about right; I'll switch mine out eventually. 4-pole 540 can.
Thoughts???
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.0.219.eEePyR&id=16743395544
Steps 6 and 11: When inserting the grommets into the Front and Rear Aluminum Toe Blocks, pay close attention to the exploded views regarding grommet orientationin these steps. The grommets are labeled incorrectly in Step6. Step 11 is okay, but I'd recommend carefully looking at both steps, and makingsure you've got all your grommets orientated correctly before attaching any a-arms.
Step 8: The orientation of the camber tower in the illustration is misleading, wrong. It only fits one way, soI'd be surprised if anybody actually put it on backwards, but still... take a look.
Step 15: I got a kit with the aluminum motor mount, whew. But the directions are for a plastic motor mount.
According to the instructions, plastic part AX80105.1 is held in place by four AXA116, M3x12mm screws.
But Hardware Bag D only included two AXA116.Bag Dhad a tiny bag stapled to it that includedtwo AXA114, M3x8mm screws.
I assumed that the two shorter screws went into the aluminum motor mount, and the two longer screws went intoplastic part AX80105.4
Did I assume right?
Note: Dont forget threadlock on the two that go into the aluminum motor mount.
I will addsome pics tonight. This may seem like no big deal, but man, I thought I had two 12mm screws where I needed 8mm, and started taking things apart to double check. What an irritation to an otherwise smooth build to this point.
I think I remember having to open a back early to find the parts I needed. In the end, all the parts and hardware were accounted for and I wasn't missing anything. You'll end up with a lot of accessory pieces and extra toe block/arm mounts.
Also, have you figured out what those two panels that are textured on one and seem to fit together as if they were supposed to hinge on each other? I can't find it in the guide and don't see a practical use for them.
Those two panelsmight be tire blocks fora static display, but that is a wild guess.
Motor Mount:
The directions for the installation of the motor are worthless. These instructions are better, but still out of date. My kit has twoallen headscrews to secure the two piece motor mount rather than one set screw. I guess all thattalk about dove tails didn't pan out. I don't know.
http://www.axialracing.com/blog_posts/9974
Shocks:
The illiustration tells you how the pieces go together, but it doesn't explain how the shocks should feel when properly assembled. … worthless[/b].
1. Check for friction before putting any oil in the body.
2. Check for pressure, resistance after you have tightened the caps with oil in the shock bodies.
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Tires:[/b]
If you haver never glued tires,find a video on youtube or something. The Axial instructions are worthless[/b].<o></o>
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<o>That's a triple worthless for the instructions, but I still got it together, and had a blast doing it.
I'm not much helpfor shocks and tires, so if anybody wants to chime in, that'd be appreciated.
note: I'm in China, no youtube.com
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As for the tires, I recommend that you inspect the tire bead for flashing or uneven molding then sand or carefully cut any of it away. Then wash the rims and tires before you glue them. Use degreaser soap if you have it or basic dish soap will work. Don't wash the foam.
When you glue apply it in small sections, don't try to put a ring around the whole tire in one shot. It's tedious but not impossible to do.
My issue with the shocks is that, with the springs off and oil in the shock body, the pistons all have a slightly different amount of resistance. I followed my sc10b instructions, loosened the caps to release pressure. I heard a spss of air release, but when I retightened the caps the pressure was back.
Some pistons return to full extension, and some just creep about half way out of the body. I think I got all the air bubbles out. The bodies should be filled to the rim with oil, right? hmmmm...
Again... no youtube.
Then you can secure the cap to the body by tightening it about 1 turn so that its loose. Compress the shock about 3/4 in and some oil will ooze out the top. Meanwhile, tighten the cap. You will feel pressure build against the shock shaft and it will want to push back out. I try to keep the shock vertical the entire time so pressing the shock shaft against a counter top while tightening the cap will help.
Once the cap is tight check how far the shock shaft extended. it should be about 1/2 out of the body. To make the others consistant, you may need to bleed a little more oil by loosening the cap again and squishing out a little more oil. It takes patience, but you have to practice it a few times to get better at it.
The Futaba BLS451, and Hitec 7965MG are other contenders. Also the AE 1014 somethunerather. I get it confused with the ACE 1014.
At first I steered away from Savox because I heard they sucked up a lot a juice, but the Savox numbers look good and they are cheaper.
I'd definitely be willing to pay more for a high end servo if it meant I wouldnt need a UBEC, but if a UBEC just makes a car run better overall, regardless of servo choice, I'll get one.
2. Will a flunky Flysky impact the servo performance? I'm considering paying more for a steering servo, $100+, than I spent on my radio, $35 and Leopard 60a Combo, $60 combined.
Is that stupid..., or what?