5s vs 6s budget packs for bashing??
03-13-2013, 09:06 PM
#1
5s vs 6s budget packs for bashing??
I've got an rc8te with castle 2200kv and hw 150a pro esc I use for bashing with lots of speed runs. I have 2 ok 5s packs (3s x 2s) and 1 budget 5s pack. The budget 5s pack cuts to lvc at full throttle after a couple speed runs. I want to buy some new budget packs and am wondering if I go 6s and tune down my esc would I get better results than a budget 5s pack? What would be an equivalent mah 6s to 5000mah in 5s? Any insight on the subject would be appreciated
03-13-2013, 09:39 PM
#2
RE: 5s vs 6s budget packs for bashing??
ORIGINAL: big JC
I have 2 ok 5s packs (3s x 2s)
I have 2 ok 5s packs (3s x 2s)
ORIGINAL: big JC
1. I want to buy some new budget packs and am wondering if I go 6s and tune down my esc would I get better results than a budget 5s pack?
2. What would be an equivalent mah 6s to 5000mah in 5s? Any insight on the subject would be appreciated
1. I want to buy some new budget packs and am wondering if I go 6s and tune down my esc would I get better results than a budget 5s pack?
2. What would be an equivalent mah 6s to 5000mah in 5s? Any insight on the subject would be appreciated
2. A 5000mah 6S pack would be equivelant to a 5000mah 5S pack with the exception of voltage output. The 6S will make the car faster/more powerful but, both batteries will offer about the same run time. Changing the number of cells in the pack changes the amount of availble power while changing the mah rating affects run-time and available current. Don't forget about the "C" rating. With 5000mah packs, you should be looking at 30C or higher for 1/8 applications.
03-13-2013, 10:23 PM
#3
RE: 5s vs 6s budget packs for bashing??
ORIGINAL: BKoz559
What does this mean? Do you have a 3S and a 2S pack wired together? What are the specifications of each pack? Regardless, you're better off running the 3S pack by itself in this instance.
1. What results are you looking for? What are you not satisfied with and are trying to change about the performance of the car? You would probably be better off with a single 4S pack anyhow. I don't know the exact specs of your ESC but, generally drivers like to use 4S OR 6S LiPo power in 1/8 vehicles. Consider, however, that 6S will give you insane speed and power but, it will also put increased stress and wear on the drivetrain and you will break parts more often. You can use a single 5S pack too but, depending on what you goal is we can make battery suggestions based on that.
2. A 5000mah 6S pack would be equivelant to a 5000mah 5S pack with the exception of voltage output. The 6S will make the car faster/more powerful but, both batteries will offer about the same run time. Changing the number of cells in the pack changes the amount of availble power while changing the mah rating affects run-time and available current. Don't forget about the "C" rating. With 5000mah packs, you should be looking at 30C or higher for 1/8 applications.
ORIGINAL: big JC
I have 2 ok 5s packs (3s x 2s)
I have 2 ok 5s packs (3s x 2s)
ORIGINAL: big JC
1. I want to buy some new budget packs and am wondering if I go 6s and tune down my esc would I get better results than a budget 5s pack?
2. What would be an equivalent mah 6s to 5000mah in 5s? Any insight on the subject would be appreciated
1. I want to buy some new budget packs and am wondering if I go 6s and tune down my esc would I get better results than a budget 5s pack?
2. What would be an equivalent mah 6s to 5000mah in 5s? Any insight on the subject would be appreciated
2. A 5000mah 6S pack would be equivelant to a 5000mah 5S pack with the exception of voltage output. The 6S will make the car faster/more powerful but, both batteries will offer about the same run time. Changing the number of cells in the pack changes the amount of availble power while changing the mah rating affects run-time and available current. Don't forget about the "C" rating. With 5000mah packs, you should be looking at 30C or higher for 1/8 applications.
03-14-2013, 12:58 AM
#4
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RE: 5s vs 6s budget packs for bashing??
I am an exclusive 2S and 3S user. Why? Because with a combination of 3S and 2S battas, I can build any combo I want.
IMO, the most bang for buck cells are the Turnigy Nanotechs, though a lot of people swear by the GensAce which I have never tried. In terms of real budget batteries, the Turnigy vanilla batteries get consistently good reviews for their pricepoint I while they will sag more than the nanotechs, for bashing around would be fine.
In regards to the question about 5S vs 6S, think of it this way (this is a highly simplified explanation there is a lot more to it than this, and its not even 100% accurate, its just an example to show the relationship between the cell count and the motor consumption)...
The motor uses Watts. It doesn't use volts or amps specifically, it can only use both together expressed as watts. Therefore, to turn under a specific load, the motor needs a certain number of watts, lets say you have a 5S battery that can put out 200A (5000mAh 40c), lets say your motor can pull 200 amps at startup. So, when starting up, the motor starts building up its watts, first taking the voltage of the pack (5*3.7 nominally 18.5), then it multiplies it by the amps (we said it pulls 200 amps on startup, 18.5*200=3700W. OK, now we know that on startup that motor will need 3700W to give maximum acceleration. Now lets see what happens when we add a 6S pack. The motor still needs 3700W to start up. But that is no longer divided by 18.5, it is now divided by 22.2. So in actual fact, by increasing the voltage, we have DECREASED the amperage requirement. Now it's not pulling 200A to make 3700W, it's only pulling (3700/22.2=167A), therefore, we can get away with a lower C pack on 6S and get the same result. This is also the same effect that causes 6S to have higher duratoin than a battery with less cells but the same mAh. When a motor says how many amps it pulls, in order for that to mean anything, they really should tell us what battery they use. And in fact, it would just be much easier if manufacturers would state their battery's capabilities in straightforward Watts instead of C or Amps.
So, short answer, yes, you can go lower in C when going up in cells, and get the same result, but you should still do the math. More importantly, and perhaps this is the real questoin behind all this, since you mention budget right at the start...
You will always 'feel' a performance improvement at 1/8th scale, every time you go up in C, right up to over 150C. The more C, the more electrons will flow, simple as that.
IMO, the most bang for buck cells are the Turnigy Nanotechs, though a lot of people swear by the GensAce which I have never tried. In terms of real budget batteries, the Turnigy vanilla batteries get consistently good reviews for their pricepoint I while they will sag more than the nanotechs, for bashing around would be fine.
In regards to the question about 5S vs 6S, think of it this way (this is a highly simplified explanation there is a lot more to it than this, and its not even 100% accurate, its just an example to show the relationship between the cell count and the motor consumption)...
The motor uses Watts. It doesn't use volts or amps specifically, it can only use both together expressed as watts. Therefore, to turn under a specific load, the motor needs a certain number of watts, lets say you have a 5S battery that can put out 200A (5000mAh 40c), lets say your motor can pull 200 amps at startup. So, when starting up, the motor starts building up its watts, first taking the voltage of the pack (5*3.7 nominally 18.5), then it multiplies it by the amps (we said it pulls 200 amps on startup, 18.5*200=3700W. OK, now we know that on startup that motor will need 3700W to give maximum acceleration. Now lets see what happens when we add a 6S pack. The motor still needs 3700W to start up. But that is no longer divided by 18.5, it is now divided by 22.2. So in actual fact, by increasing the voltage, we have DECREASED the amperage requirement. Now it's not pulling 200A to make 3700W, it's only pulling (3700/22.2=167A), therefore, we can get away with a lower C pack on 6S and get the same result. This is also the same effect that causes 6S to have higher duratoin than a battery with less cells but the same mAh. When a motor says how many amps it pulls, in order for that to mean anything, they really should tell us what battery they use. And in fact, it would just be much easier if manufacturers would state their battery's capabilities in straightforward Watts instead of C or Amps.
So, short answer, yes, you can go lower in C when going up in cells, and get the same result, but you should still do the math. More importantly, and perhaps this is the real questoin behind all this, since you mention budget right at the start...
You will always 'feel' a performance improvement at 1/8th scale, every time you go up in C, right up to over 150C. The more C, the more electrons will flow, simple as that.
03-14-2013, 07:18 AM
#5
RE: 5s vs 6s budget packs for bashing??
Ok Foxy, that's what I was looking for and kinda had a mental grasp on but I am not that articulate (or I'm just lazy). Was really just looking for some "confirmation" before I spend my money as you can basically by a 5s and 6s pack with same mah and c rating for the same price.
When I originally bought my first batteries I had the same rational as you and bought 2 2s packs and 2 3s packs so I could make any combo I wanted. However, after running for a while now I realized I will only be running 5s or greater, and like the ease of 1 pack. Anyway thanks for spelling it out, that helped.
