MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, just placed the order. That completes everything I wanted to do. Next project I'll order that iron. By that time I'll have another $50 and will ask you for a higher quality suggestion. Thanks for the help, I'll post photos once the receiver is in and you could make fun of my soldering

xgchxt

If u want to stay brushed but for about 100 bucks you can go brushless

DieHarder

He already has a Hobbywing brushless system. Don't listen to this guy Monte, he's a spam bot.

kistner

My Feedback: (10)

That is probably a good soldering iron but i love my $8 Hobbico iron from Tower Hobbies.

gigadiablo

go with a VXL esc and switch the motor to a veilneon

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Velineon systems are fine, but for the Rustler, a little over-powered, and certainly over-priced. That $80 HW system will do you just fine. Exactly what I have in my Evader (same as Rustler).

MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

So I ordered a receiver from Hobby King. It's the first time I've purchased from this company. I've got to say, the shipping terms to the US are obnoxious. 14-39 days and you can't ask them to investigate a missing package unless it's gone 4 months without the buyer receiving it. Why is everyone so crazy about this company again?

DieHarder

I'm not crazy about Hobby King at all, seeing how I've never bought from them. I like their selection of products and they have some neat stuff, but they are in a way like a Harbor Freight for RC. The stuff looks great, but comes up marginal quality, judging from the reviews. They have some stuff that's great quality though, it's like a game to watch and not get bit. If I really want something they have, I usually get it off of eBay.

I can't say that the links Collector gave are 'great' products, but if he recommends them, they should be ok. I'd buy something else personally, but if you're tight on a budget, you might go ahead and buy from Hobby King. I haven't heard very many complaints about people's shipments not showing up...

xcghh

Wow guys, I have to say that soldering is way harder than I though. I did a horrendous job soldering the connectors but I'm going to leave it as is. It took me at least an hour and my hand is all burned up.

MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for your help on this guys. I've run into a problem. I have everything setup. Here's the setup in, what used to be, a Rustler:
Hobbyking GT-2 2.4Ghz Tx&Rx
Hobbywing EXRun Brushless Combo w/35A ESC and 13T brushless motor
2S Lipo

I calibrated the Tx and everything worked awesome. I pushed the set button on the ESC one more time (don't know why) and the car took off like a bat out of hell. It hit the wall flipped and ran at full throttle upside down until I finally gathered myself together to shut it off. One wheel got wrapped up in a plastic bag while upside down so it stopped spinning, the other one spun at full throttle the whole time. I finally shut it off after 30 seconds or so.

I went to recalibrate the ESC and I have not been able to get the engine to turn since. The very first issue I have is that the ESC does not beep with calibrating. However, all the lights work just fine. I get one flash to acknowledge neutral, 2 for forward throttle, and 3 for reverse. The only thing the manual says is that there may be a bad battery connection. I resoldered the ESC T plugs and the connection is fine. Is there anything else you can think of that I may be missing that would make the ESC stop beeping?

I have not charged the battery since it came from the factory because I don't have the adapters yet but everything turns on. Can't be the battery right?


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kistner

My Feedback: (10)

I just read that not all of the hobbywings beep when you think they should. Does it work despite the lack of beeps?
And yes, a low battery can cause some unusual behavior.

MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

Let's see what happens when that battery gets to a full charge today. No, I can't get the engine to respond to throttle. Yesterday I looked a the program card settings. There was a restriction on the voltage cutoff of 3.0v per cell. I changed that to no restriction and still nothing. If charging the battery doesn't work, we'll try returning the product.

DieHarder

Sounds like the failsafe wasn't set properly. Better go through the setup and recalibrate the ESC as well as rebind the radio to the receiver. Charge your battery and turn the lipo cutoff back on at 3.0v like it was. If the ESC doesn't cutoff the battery at 3.0v and the battery's voltage drops too low, it will ruin the battery.

I remember when my Evader didn't have the failsafe set right. It went off in my room and did a burnout against the wall at full throttle. I still have the black marks in the carpet...

phmaximus

U need to charge the battery first... Or at least check the batteries voltage so u know for a fact it has over 3.1v per cell, otherwise it's completely pointless been a 2s u need at lease a surface voltage of 6.2v

are u sure u are calibrating it?? It's very easy to hold the bottom for to long and enter programing mode, but either way you need to charge the battery.

Light

xhxfhh

Those Xl5's can be tricky to turn on it the throttle trim is out, even try getting it into program more before u replace it. just to be sure...

MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

Hey DieHarder,

Just want you to know that I messed this up twice before actually getting it right yesterday. My truck does big wheelies and it's WAY faster than I can even handle on the street. I changed out the steering servo to the one you suggested also but the screw kept coming loose. I realigned it and used some Loctite last night. We'll see if it starts to work correctly. If not, then that means the plastic gear portion is stripped, though it didn't look that way. Just want to give you a huge thanks for taking the time to talk me through this one. I have a badass electric car.

DieHarder

Not a problem man, glad I could help! That's what the forums are here for and it pleasures me to hear that I was able to help you out.

If one of the other plastic gears are stripped, then you should probably just get a better servo. Hitec dropped the price on their 5645MG that has all metal gears and a little more torque.

HS-5645-MG - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUZ80&P=ML

If you find that the plastic servo horn is stripped out (it happens often), then I'd recommend an aluminum one like this:

HB 24T - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZTT9&P=7

or this:

TLR 24T - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Losi-TLR1556...item58c0043b3f

$10 is a little steep IMO, but there isn't much else on eBay or Tower except clamping horns (Amain hobbies has some good options, but their shipping will kill you unless you have a sizable order). I don't believe in using clamping horns, I think the strongest hold your are going to get between the servo spline and the horn is with a horn that is solid and pushes on nice and tight, designed to spec size. Those clamping ones are probably engineered to align when fully clamped, but with the clamping mechanism and the teeth moving, a low quality clamping horn may not align very well and in that case wouldn't be as good as a solid horn. Just my thoughts, I always buy solid horns. I wouldn't buy any of the Integy's horns either, they're not a very reputable company and many say that the aluminum in they're products is porous, soft, and molded (CNC is the way to go). When you're looking for a servo horn, make sure it has a 24T spline. Hitec uses the 24T while others use 23T and 25T. And please don't decided whether to get a clamping or solid horn just by what I say, I can't tell anybody what to buy. I'm just exampling what I get and why.

Hope that helps if the Loctite doesn't fix the issue.

RustyUs

Bonus on the digital servos from Hitec...they come with an aluminum horn .

I couldn't help see the word Loctite in the same sentence with servos. When using thread lock to secure a servo horn screw, only put the thread lock in a metal gear/spline, and do not get any on a plastic servo horn. Thread lock will eat away at the plastic. Being young and not reading instructions...I've ruined a servo or two back in the day.

DieHarder

Good point Rusty. The Hitec 5645MG does come with an aluminum horn, so if your servo itself is toast and you get the 5645MG, there's no need to buy a horn. I use one of these in my Evader. To make it work you just have to drill the end hole in the horn to .125". It's too small as it comes.

MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

So Loctite didn't fix the issue. The plastic in the servo horn got pretty ripped up. I'm going to order the servo you suggested. I can only use the round servo horn though. Is there a round one that you can suggest that works with the servo you suggested?

Moparluvr

I just upgraded sons rustler xl5 to brushless. I got the castle sct sidewinder with the 3800 motor. Thing rips big time. The esc is great, many programming options. Better than the vxl imo.