phmaximus

Nearly finished the top chassis plate... In the mean time I've fitted the temp sender to the motor.

It's Pritty nifty, the sender just wraps around the motor and because it's a finned out 3900kv 380 core motor it sits nicely in between the fins.

Pics soon...

phmaximus

Well I've got around to finishing off the top chassis deck.. Yay!!!
I've fitted a Blue Bird 616DMG+HS steering servo, and Blue Bird servo horn with alloy ring
Slash 4x4 bellcrank
Bellcrank ball bearings
As well as that I've drilled 3 holes into the battery hold down bar, cut a hole to access the servo horn screw and I've cut windows into the rear of the main chassis. In theory it should allow dirt, rocks and water escape the chassis

phmaximus

Forgot to mention, I had to cut the turnbuckle 3mm shorter from the servo horn to the bellcrank. To get steering equall both ways.

I've been busy, I've soldered new receiver wires onto the ESC and soldered the curcit board so there is no on/off switch.

phmaximus

Yay it finally came...... The STRC LCG kit

So far I'm impressed with the STRC LCG kit, its a small compact packet and all the parts are individualy bagged.
By the looks of the parts and finishes they appear to be good quality, only durability testing will really let me know.

I've cleaned up the motors heatsink and fan mount, to allow more airflow over the motor, here are some pics for now... Still more to come.... Wheels and nurf bars next

phmaximus

Im a huge fan on the V8 supercars down here, so ive used one for my latest inspiration....

I really want yellow this time, but im finding it really only goes with black, so here is a very simple paint job

What to u guys think? Ive use all the manufactures that consists of my slash. Im thinking wouldent cost to much for all the custom stickers from a printing shop????

Zonked

My Feedback: (6)

Nice looking build, once you get it painted will look sweet

phmaximus

Cheers man, I can't wait to get the body and paint it.


I finished off the front shocks today with new losi med piston spacer, o ring cartridges, TiN shafts and duel stage pistons. So far So good... Can't wait to test it all out

I've tidied up the wires and fitted a Rustler water tight receiver box. I know, I know it's not the best thing for handling but the fact I know my receiver is now nice and secure and dust/water proof I'm happy.

I've nearly got on order all the little parts for the chassis and suspension I still want/need. Soon I shoud have that all finished of and plan to start on wheels and tyres.... Can't wait, im so excited

phmaximus

While waiting on some more parts to arrive I got some JConcepts Tense SCT wheels.

Man, I love the look of these wheels, can't wait to get some tyres and mount them. I really like the fake scale looking hub covers....

phmaximus

Come on post man.... hurry up.

phmaximus

Still no post [] so I may as well show u guys the nitro rustler castor block pin mod I did.

I managed to bend a stock pin in a front on crash, and I had some nitro rustler pins on hand, so i got to thinking...
only thing is the nitro rustler pins are thicker and slightly longer. So with some light modding its possible to fit the stronger nitro rustler pins.

I started up by matching the nitro rustler pin to a drill bit of the same thickness. Then I used the drill to do a 2second buzz in each hole(both castor blocks and steering knuckles).



Next I checked that the pin fitted in the holes and most importantly was not to tight on the steering knuckles. Because the steering steers from this pin it needs to have little to no resistance turning in the knuckles, mine did so I ran the drill bit through by hand until the pin was nice and smooth.

Next was to dummy fit the pin and check its length. As u can see its slightly to long



Using a grinding disc and a dremel I shortened the pin by grinding it down, little by little until it was close to flush.



Job well done. Double check that the steering moves freely and then ur good to go.



*edit, pics added

phmaximus

here we go, I got some bits...

Nurf bars on a LCG slash

u will need
1x LCG slash
1x sc10 nurf bar set
2x M3x8mm bolt
2x M3x12mm bolt
4x M3 unlock nut
8x M3 washers
1x 3-3.5mm drill bit

this one is easy guy, simply dummy mount the nurf bars, drill the holes, then bolt it.

phmaximus

Not much to update on, it's now sporting RPM Rear tower and RPM rear adjustable body mounts.
Body is on order..... Tyres will be soon....

I'm so far not happy with the diff action ATM..... So, I've got a plan... Check back soon

phmaximus

waiting... waiting... waiting... come on post man.

Well here is a little update on the wheels.

I really like the chrome centre caps but did not like the way the chrome extended onto the fake hub and the black flat top screws.
its not finished yet but ive painted the fake bead yellow with 4 coats of enamel and some of the chrome and JC lettering matt black.
ive got some stainless Socket Cap Screws coming, In the idea the socket cap will look more like a wheel nut.

phmaximus

Yay! got some bits today... I got some black body clips and a sealed diff housing by HR.

I got all setup to do a tutorial, but realised it would make more sense to hold it off until my new gearbox housing gets here.... Bugger
oh well, may as well post the pic anyway



Losi o ring grease, to protect and help seal and seat the o rings
Losi 3000wt oil, to fill the diff housing with
HR Sealed diff housing, uses stock traxxas planetary gears
plumbers tape, seal and secure diff housing screws
wet/dry sandpaper, for cleaning seal seats
Allen key set, for assembling the housing

phmaximus

couldn't wait lol

Remove parts from there bags and organise all parts in a clean working area

Apply a very thin smear of grease on all 4 o rings. I put some grease on my thumb and index finger, then use them to hold the o rings with ur other hand keep rotating the o ring until its all got a thin smear


Now very carefully push the large o rings into there seats on each side of the ring gear. Double check this step, sometimes they pop out.


Now very carefully push the small o rings into there seats on each half of the housing


Lightly oil gears prior to installing

phmaximus

Install gear pins into the rear housing and output and planetary gears


Fill the bottom diff housing with desired oil wt, to the top. Ensuring the oil is all the way around the planetary gears


Assemble the housing and use plumbers tape to tape up the screws including there head

phmaximus

All finished ready to rock and roll


*note I'm having some issues with the screws. If I tighten them tight the diff locks up.... I'll be looking into that when the new gearbox arrives

JRN110

wow looking good mate love the V8 Design (PS: im a ford man too haha)

phmaximus

cheerz m8, don't worry im a huge ford fan. 78 ZH Fairlane here..


well ive been busy.......... I GOT THE BODY PAINTED, YAY!!!!!!!!!

ive been using faskolor liquid mask and faskolor 10mm masking tape with Tamiya PS paints

ive still got a few stickers and bits im waiting for but here ya go anyway.... here is a sneak peek

CarGuy7a

Nice build. I noticed you used 3000wt diff oil. That's awful thin. Are you going to race this truck? I won't run anything less that 100K in mine.

phmaximus

Good question.... Well I never understood why people were running such high wt oils with there slashes. Compared to any other oil filled diff 100k and 200k it's excessively thick.

So I got to reading posts online and other people's experience.. I found most people were running 200k because of Slash Spec Racing guid traxxas posted. Some were even running 200wt in sealed diffs, but no one really posted any preformance gains. There was one guy complaining about loss of preformance and was wondering why. Someone summarised it in a nut shell, the traxxas preformance guid stated to only fill the diff up 25-30%.... Why? Well because the stock diff is not sealed u need to run thicker oil so it does not leak. But if u were to fill the diff 80% with 200k it would nearly be locked with very slow action. So to over come that they partially filled the diff with thick oil to make it behave like a fully filled diff with lighter oil.

Since I'm running a sealed diff now, I opted for 3k. Compared to other sealed diff its a good starting point. So far I've only ran I pack through it and so far it feels perfect... Dare say if I was planing to run on a high traction carpet track I would problary go thicker. But ATM I feel 3k defiantly reduces the inside wheel peeling out, there is no increase of understeer and can manage controlable twin wheel power slides. It's defiantly faster exiting a corner now too.... I highly reccomend 3k

phmaximus

Oh no, I've run into a problem... There is compatibility issues with the STRC LCG kit and the RPM gearbox housing.

A stock slash uses 6 screws to secure the gearbox to the chassis, 4 large and 2 small. With the STRC LCG kit it mounts with only 4 screws, 2 large and 2 small. I guess with all the alloy reinforcing plates it does not need the front 2 large screws and to use the 2 front screws its not then bolt on because u still would need to drill 2 small holes in the chassis tail for them.

The problem I have is the RPM gearbox housing needs those front screws. Because unlike the stock housing the RPM one has separate removable suspension arm mounts. If I was to fit it with out the front screws the wheels would be all over the place.... Kinds of like rear steering but with no controll.

Next problem, because the STRC extends the wheel base past the chassis, it uses a small alloy plate to extend the chassis that is sandwiched between the gearbox and the STRC main lower plate/skid plate. No clearence issues at all with the stock housing, but with the RPM housing the plate is around 1mm to long.

Well I have a solution....
Dremel and file 1mm of the rear plate away in the required section.
Drill and counter sink the holes in the STRC lower plate and drill the chassis to match. Use bolts supplied with the RPM kit for the front and the ones from the STRC in the rear holes

Here is the finished mod pre fitment. As u can see the modified sections are the silver bits with no black anodising.

phmaximus

oops forgot to add the pic

phmaximus

Yay!!! I've finished the wheels and I'm very happy with the result.
Just to re cap I'm running JConcepts Tense SCT rims and JConcepts subcultures tyres
ive painted the rims and hub caps for a more scale look as well as replacing the black 7mm button head screws with chrome 4mm socket head screws. IMO the socket head screws look more like tiny wheel nuts.



Here is the body as it sits now. As u can see I still need to make a 160mm RPM sticker and a few little stickers.

phmaximus

WOW RPM's customer service is one of the best I've ever come across.

I sent a email to RPM about the unfortunate lack of large RPM stickers and the problems I've been having digitally upsizing there logo for the side of my truck.

They Welcomed the idea of me using there logo for my slash
So the friendly tech personally modified the RPM logo by removing the oval in the background and sent it to me as a high res image..... now all I have to do is get it printed.
how nice is that? all RPM have requested in return is some pictures of the completed truck. Sweet deal if u ask me....

THANKS RPM, I KNEW I MADE A RIGHT DECISION