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  1. #1
    egbasher's Avatar
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    High Price of Replacement Parts

    I just bought a Ofna Hyper10TT. Great little car. Since this is a discontinued model, I thought I should get some replacement parts before they get hard to find. I put a few things in the cart and before I knew it the total was almost as much as the car was originally. So I just bought another whole car. I added up the cost of building a car from parts and it's crazy expensive. Over $800 compared to less than $200 for the assembled car. Are we getting ripped off here or are manufacturers selling cars as a loss leaders knowing we'll all buy over-priced parts later? Am I nuts for buying a 2nd parts car?

  2. #2
    SyCo_VeNoM's Avatar
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    You are not nuts I've bought extras of vehicles cause I found em dirt cheap for spares... Just I usually end up throwing a whoole setup in them, and using them too, or borrowing em out when I run

    Like I bought a 2nd CRT .5 of ofna for $70 cause the body which I wrecked on my original one was $50 at the LHS(before taxes >_<) I was like HMM for $70 I can get a whole spare set of parts wow that is a no brainer. Ended up also buying it a full set of CNC upgrades(not from ofna though as their upgrades should be made of titanium for what they charge), and its own motor

    If you think about it they have to package the separate parts, ship em, and the hobby shops have to store em. So if you think about it the fee isn't that insane, but yes I will agree its a tad high. But alas they have to also stock the not so frequently bought parts too so I'm sure some of the cost is thrown on to even those out.

    But seeing the main things that break on RC's are A-arms, and knuckles (if they are plastic) in a way buying a 2nd RC doesn't even the cost out cause if you break the arms you paid $200 for a set instead of $6 lol

    Now what is REALLY ludicrous are those (how one guy who used to work at my LHS put it) *magical* durobro (or whatever their name is) screws hobby shops sell that are 4 for $2

    Also if you want to see insane markup look at HPI Recon parts bags I broke 3 parts on my recon to get the 3 parts I needed I would have had to buy $130 in parts bags for a RC I bought for $90 NIB...
    With great speed comes greater repair bills.
    Click on My models to see some of what I own. Eventually will add the rest

  3. #3
    phmaximus's Avatar
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    A lot depends on the manufacture and model. I've found tamiya, traxxas and losi to be very cheap with there parts. A while ago I made a tamiya Baja king from parts bags excluding wheels and electronics for $120
    but I suspect that was a fluke.

    Generally there a lot of extra costs assioated with the transport and logistics on spare parts and I suspect the hobby shops have a higher markup on parts when compared to kits
    LOSI: 5IVE-T, 8IGHT-E, MICRO SCT
    Tamiya: TL01MT, TL01B, TA01RA, Clodbuster
    Traxxas: Slash 2wd, Axial: SCX10 Honcho
    Hobao: Hyper 10e, River Hobby X-Ranger

  4. #4
    egbasher's Avatar
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    I know waht you mean about turning a parts car into a runner. I did that with an Evader. With the Hyper TT, I took it apart the day I got it. It all fits into a plastic parts organizer except for chassis & wheels. You're right about spending $200 for a bunch of parts that you may never use, but I have to drive an hour to get to where I race and I want to be able to fix whatever breaks so as not to waste a race day. Maybe the TT's are more rugged but I was breaking all sorts of parts on the Evader, even after I learned to drive! So far the TT is holding up pretty good. In 6 days of racing my buddy (he also has a TT) we have broken three rear suspension arms, a CV and munched a couple of bearings. It's weird, the arms break when the cars get tangled up, not in a major crash. I was wondering about the Integy CNC Al parts. If you upgrade to aluminum arms then what becomes the sacrificial part in a crash?

  5. #5
    SyCo_VeNoM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by egbasher View Post
    I know waht you mean about turning a parts car into a runner. I did that with an Evader. With the Hyper TT, I took it apart the day I got it. It all fits into a plastic parts organizer except for chassis & wheels. You're right about spending $200 for a bunch of parts that you may never use, but I have to drive an hour to get to where I race and I want to be able to fix whatever breaks so as not to waste a race day. Maybe the TT's are more rugged but I was breaking all sorts of parts on the Evader, even after I learned to drive! So far the TT is holding up pretty good. In 6 days of racing my buddy (he also has a TT) we have broken three rear suspension arms, a CV and munched a couple of bearings. It's weird, the arms break when the cars get tangled up, not in a major crash. I was wondering about the Integy CNC Al parts. If you upgrade to aluminum arms then what becomes the sacrificial part in a crash?
    Do NOT go aluminum arms (specially integy)
    The next part becomes the hub that it hooks onto the chassis at. I went aluminum arms on my MT2, after one run(and 3 minutes at that I did a small jump) I ripped the hinge off that holds the rear arm on. Went back to plastic arms never had that issue(or prior) It also bent the pin so a $7 for 2 arms issue turned into a $10 for the parts bag, and $2 for the pin issue.
    With great speed comes greater repair bills.
    Click on My models to see some of what I own. Eventually will add the rest

  6. #6
    egbasher's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. You confirmed what I suspected. Won't waste my money.
    The worst race day is better than the best work day.

  7. #7
    SyCo_VeNoM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by egbasher View Post
    Thanks for the info. You confirmed what I suspected. Won't waste my money.
    yup I learned it the hard way
    Aluminum is fine(and usually recommended) for C-hubs, knuckles, shock towers, chassis plates(actually aluminum is best for those), and motor mounts Basically things you don't want any play or give in

    diff holders they are ok, but it depends what you are going for as they will add more weight with no real benefit

    Aluminum is abysmal for A-arms, and bumpers in both cases they will just transfer all the kinetic energy to the next weakest part.
    With great speed comes greater repair bills.
    Click on My models to see some of what I own. Eventually will add the rest

  8. #8
    egbasher's Avatar
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    Makes sense. Sounds like it's best to leave the plastic arms as the sacrificial part. I wouldn't be surprised if they weren't engineered that way. Also nice that replacing a broken arm on the TT is only about a 15 minute job. Again, thanks for the info.
    The worst race day is better than the best work day.

  9. #9
    SyCo_VeNoM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by egbasher View Post
    Makes sense. Sounds like it's best to leave the plastic arms as the sacrificial part. I wouldn't be surprised if they weren't engineered that way. Also nice that replacing a broken arm on the TT is only about a 15 minute job. Again, thanks for the info.
    better then a mini revo
    when I swapped mine to RPM arms I think it took me like 30 mins+ as I had to take like 15 screws out, and a little pin. Easiest arm I ever swapped was my old MT1 it was literally 3 screws, and you were done (1 for chassis hub, 1 for c-hub, and one for shock mount) didn't even have to take the tires off.

    Well I guess they were partially engineered that way as you need some place for the energy to go from crashes, and stuff. But it also has to deal with materials used as RPM arms while usually being stronger then normal parts, also allows for the dissipation of the kinetic energy.
    Last edited by SyCo_VeNoM; 01-07-2014 at 03:13 PM.
    With great speed comes greater repair bills.
    Click on My models to see some of what I own. Eventually will add the rest


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