funkybunch

Just bought a 1/10 scale mrp ripper st that comes stock with a brushed motor. I will eventually want to upgrade both the motor and esc to a brushless setup and maybe go from nimh to lipo battery as well but my question is. Can I just simply buy a esc and motor designed for 1/10 scale or do I need to purchase a proprietary one from mrp. Also im not sure I want to also replace the battery pack from nimh to lipo or do I have to at the time of converting the motor and esc also do the battery as well or can i continue using the nimh that came with the car. I ask because the guy at the store said for me to upgrade this thing to brushless it would cost about 250 bucks and i felt that was crazy considering the car only cost 150 bucks. I see some esc brushless motor combos for 1/10 scale much cheaper that 250 so I was hoping that could be an option rather than forking over 250 dollars more i may as well just buy a new truck if thats the case.

zackS30

Hello, Its my understanding that a nimh battery wont last long under the stress of a brushless setup. It draws too much power from the battery and eventualy destroys it.
As far as a brushless setup, I think they r pretty well universal, I have an axial exo terra which is advertised as a 1/10 but it has 1/8 electroniics in it. some manfacurers give specs saying what kind of weight they can handle so I would say some will work and some wont work very well.

Lots of very helpful/nice guys here! Someone will give u better info on this subject shortly!
Thats was just what ive learned so far. Hope I helped a little!

john01374

Funky,

You can use any 1/10[SUP]th[/SUP] scale brushless motor. I would recommend that you buy a motor in the 4000-5000KV range for that truck and nothing higher. You’ll need to get a couple of pinion gears as well as you’ll need to gear the motor properly. Idealy you want the motor to run at around 160F.By 200F you begin to effect the magnets inside the motor.

I don’t know what battery you currently have but I do recommend that you go LiPo for better performance. A NiMh pack will work but it will get HOT and you could hurt the battery.

In addition you will want to be sure that you are using a good quality battery connector. The normal “tamiya” style “molex” connectors will melt under the current of a brushless setup.

I can help you with selecting all of these parts if you like.

Drop me a line and we can discuss.

funkybunch

thanks to both of you guys for responding. John I have some connectors i bought for my rc airplane i think there called t-86 style connectors I am comfortable removing and soldering the old connectors but the gearing may be a different story. I understand the concept that you basically want to find your motors peak sweat spot between top speed and acceleration but I am hoping to leave the gears as they are and just add a brushless motor that can accomodate the current gear setup. Also I am tracking in regards to the batteries and i can find lipo batteries at hobby king and also solder t 86 connectors on to them it would be a 7.2 1500 mah 2s battery im sure and there not to expensive but I already have the nicad that came with the car and a nimh that i bought seperately is that something i can easily maybe sell?

zackS30

A 1500mah wont give very much run time... I run 5000mahs and get an hour give or take.

U could sell the batts on ebay, they would be good for someone who wants them to slow a car down for their kid learning to drive.

Im not familiar with a t-86 connector. Most people use ultra deans plugs. They work very well and stick together well to. They are cheap too.

SyCo_VeNoM

I would just chuck the batteries personally I have a few crappy 1500mah NiMh's sitting around as paperweights as they are pretty much worthless.

as for a 1500mah lipo honestly that is small persoanlly I would say not to go under 4000mah as that things run time will be extremely short, and potentially could damage the battery.

Battery connectors depends what you like if I had to do it over again I would go EC3 or EC5's(reason I don't is I would have to replace over 30 connectors, and that adds up), but I use Traxxas connectors, others like deans(I personally don't I have tried em in the past). I wouldn't use the airplane connectors as from my experience with airplanes is they pull way less current then ground based RC's and they are not made for the load from the ones I saw (not sure about the ones you listed).

you can pick up 5000mah lipos at hobbyking for like $22

funkybunch

1500 maH is what came with the truck so I was just playing it safe thinking I didnt want to hurt anything but you talked me into a couple bigger capacity batteries. As for the t-86 connectors they are rated to handle the lipo batteries as well. I was thinking of using the old batteries, esc, and possibly motor from the ripper after I upgrade it and use it in conjunction with a radio/receiver and servo and try to fit them onto this toy grade drift car I bought at amazon. im pretty sure the servo can be made to fit to move the front tire steering mechanism. the only real trouble i would see is with the motor it is a lot bigger can than the one in this toy grade so i may find a smaller can brushed motor to go into the toy car like the motor the dramida uses looks like it would fit into it. Any opinions? I know it wont be the fastest car in the world and hell it may not even work but i saw a forum on here devoted to toy rc maybe i will scan through what they are talking about see if its been done before. P.s. I think the gears in the drift car could handle the torque of the 1/18 scale motor btw.

SyCo_VeNoM

well I was more talking when you move to brushless
as for the connector airplanes from what I owned pull less current the airplane ESC/motor I had were like 10-15 amps if I used the connector that came with that on say my 1/10th setup that sucker would have melted as it pulls over 5X more juice. Airplane connectors are more made to save space, and for the lesser pulls of the setup (also depends on the airplane size mine was just a basic park flyer that never got off the ground)

Brushed the connector might be ok as even those old ass crap tamiya connectors worked.

funkybunch

sorry correction the connectors are called xt60. the ones on your basic park flyer were probably not the same the ones I use can handle a 11.4 volt lipoly battery not sure if the rc world motors draw more power than the airplanes but i doubt it.

SyCo_VeNoM

found a spec sheet seems they are rated 60A draw
well I guess in 1/10th scale you have that is ok
If you ever move to 1/8th(or 1/10th scale 4wd SCT's that use 80A ESC's) I'd recommend you getting a different type as the bigger RC's can pull over 2X what its rated for

Quite a few people are saying they last longer then deans hmm

funkybunch

thanks for the specs. I dont know how big i will get into this hobby but I will definately take your advise if I get bigger stronger rc cars.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Yo Funky....
Check this out: http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-9t-3650-motor.html only $77!! And it's perfect for your stadium truck. I know, I run this motor in my Evaders. So when you're ready to go brushless, that's the one you want. I order stuff from HobbyPartz all the time and they stand behind what they sell. I'm a big fan of "cheap Chinese junk". 8^) I've been running these motors for several years. Very reliable. This charger is great http://www.hobbypartz.com/73p-ac680-accharger.html and is only $50.

I understand your confusion, we all started that way. Lot's of new terminology and technology to pick up on. But that's why we're here! So ask away.
"Hey, THIS car says it's 1/10th scale, and THAT car says it's 1/10th scale. But THAT car is much bigger than THIS car. ***?" Uh huh....That's why it's more important to know the WEIGHT when choosing a motor system. So with your Ripper that's say 3.5lbs like my Evader, that EZrun system I linked is perfect. Too small a motor will be over-taxed and heat up no matter how it's geared. Too big a motor will just waste power spinning tires and/or stripping teeth in your transmission. So it's good to ask for advice picking a motor system if you don't have a lot of experience. Just so you get one in the right ballpark. And you are absolutely right: putting a $250 motor system in a $150 car is completely mental.

I use Traxxas connectors and like them, but the EC-3s are good too. Some find the Deans connectors kind of small for big hands.

SyCo_VeNoM

Ditto on the ESC, and motors I have like 3 or 4 of that exact ESC in my things, and a few of the 60A ones in stuff, and 2-3 of their more expensive models too


And yea on the terminology, and tech its changed so fast its not funny, and keeps changing.


Side note I have a $300 power system in a vehicle I paid $100 for....

But in my defense I bought the MM 2200kv combo for a savage didn't like it so I ripped it out had it sitting there, and bought a $100 used truggy roller off ebay, and flung it in

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Ah, there you go! That makes perfect sense. A Mamba would do well in a truggy, better than it would in say an Evader.

Say Syco, I may have asked you before, but what other of the higher end HobbyWing systems have you used with satisfaction? Say for a smallish truggy....
(pardon the hijack)

SyCo_VeNoM

Got a SC8 in my stampede (bought a 100A motor so the SC10 wouldn't do), and the 150A XE-run with the 2000kv motor in a savage.

Depends on truggy size put a 60A one in my Jammin .5 crt, and it works perfectly fine

funkybunch

bumping this up cuz i looked at ext2rob's link to motor esc and almost bought it but then decided since it said free shipping on 100 dollars or more then i need to go ahead and get a battery for it so rob on that same web site is there any battery you recomend in the 25-30 dollar range that would be compatible with that im a little confused i thought it needed to be a 20c battery but all i can find are 25c size batteries. also I dont need a charger as i have a turnigy ballance charger that works with 2s batteries i have for my airplane

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

Hello. Any C rating battery will work. I've used Venom LiPOs for a really long time, and have never had one puff, or have a defect. I like these because they are compatible with any connector, too. Here is a link to one; http://www.atomik-rc.com/20C-2S-4000...ategory=237938

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Hey funky,
The C-rating on the pack is only important, I think, in how warm it gets in an individual system. There are ways to calculate it, phmaximus is good with that, but I feel a good 30-40C pack is all most of us need as "sportsmen". Some motor systems may require beefier packs with higher C-ratings. You'll be fine with most of whatever lipos you get. As for a specific recommendation on HPs site in your price range, I'd look at this: http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-30c-40...se-direct.html, but for a longer runtime and not that much more $$ http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-50...se-direct.html Having said what I did above, anecdotally I found using these batteries in that motor system, the 40- & 50C packs stay a little cooler, and therefore I think should last longer.

Looking for batteries on hobbypartz site can be frustrating sometimes. Their homepage Directory doesn't always take you to where you think. They don't update their links very often apparently.

What kind of battery connectors are you using?

I also rescind my endorsement of the EXI D227 servo. The second one has now crapped out. I may take the time to get a replacement, just one more chance, but the trusty Hitec is proving serviceable and reliable.