Need Help with my SC10RS (2wd-brushless)
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Hudsonville, MI
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Need Help with my SC10RS (2wd-brushless)
A few weeks ago I lost my LT Front Wheel while driving (lug nut fell off).
In the process I lost my outer bearing for my Knuckle and the hub and pin. (they all fell out in the yard somewhere)
I purchased all the items that appear to have fallen out and replaced them per the manual instructions.
Now when I drive the truck for any period of time-I continue to loose my Lug nut again. It loosens off the axle-no matter how tight I adjust it. I purchased new Lock nuts from Associated (exactly what the manual says to use).
What am I doing wrong?
Can you over tighten the nuts too much and cause this to happen? Do I need a new axle?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
In the process I lost my outer bearing for my Knuckle and the hub and pin. (they all fell out in the yard somewhere)
I purchased all the items that appear to have fallen out and replaced them per the manual instructions.
Now when I drive the truck for any period of time-I continue to loose my Lug nut again. It loosens off the axle-no matter how tight I adjust it. I purchased new Lock nuts from Associated (exactly what the manual says to use).
What am I doing wrong?
Can you over tighten the nuts too much and cause this to happen? Do I need a new axle?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
#4
That's odd, generally u only get that problem with old worn wheel nuts.
been a nyloc nut it shouldn't come loose. Especially if its a new nut.
first off, did u re fit the locating pin to the HUB? The little one that goes thought the stub axle to lock the hub to the axle?
pn 7389 universal roll pin as per pic below.
Next...
visually inspect the wheel nut. Does the plastic part look deformed?
Does it look the same as the other 3 wheel nuts?
is the thread on the stub axle nice and clean free from pitting and distortion?
next inspect the HUB hex and the hex inside the wheel, make sure it's not striped.
oh be carefull not to over tighten the wheel nuts. Over tighten nuts will cause premature bearing failure
been a nyloc nut it shouldn't come loose. Especially if its a new nut.
first off, did u re fit the locating pin to the HUB? The little one that goes thought the stub axle to lock the hub to the axle?
pn 7389 universal roll pin as per pic below.
Next...
visually inspect the wheel nut. Does the plastic part look deformed?
Does it look the same as the other 3 wheel nuts?
is the thread on the stub axle nice and clean free from pitting and distortion?
next inspect the HUB hex and the hex inside the wheel, make sure it's not striped.
oh be carefull not to over tighten the wheel nuts. Over tighten nuts will cause premature bearing failure
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Hudsonville, MI
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When I pulled the axle out, I found that the threads were worn out along the inside edge. I may have had an issue with the old hub-I can't verify this as I lost the hub, pin and outer bearing when the wheel came free from the knuckle. I replaced everything but the axle-I suspect that the orig. hub went bad causing premature wear on the axle (just a guess).
I plan on replacing the plastic hubs with metal ones in hopes that I do not experience this issue again.
I plan on replacing the plastic hubs with metal ones in hopes that I do not experience this issue again.
#7
I am well known for loosing wheel nuts! had one fall off just seconds before a race was to start (just running a slow warm up lap!)
Generally tho, this only happens with used wheel nuts, as the nylon inside them that acts like thread lock gets worn down.
I have some Loctite "stick N seal ultra" that I have used to keep grub screws in pinion gears from coming out. I don't like to use regular thread lock, as it often makes it so you cant get the grub screw out. The stick N seal is like a thick, clear gel that hardens and stick even to metal. But when you want to get the screw out it is not that hard to remove from the pinion gear.
Im sure it could be used on a wheel nut...and the threads that stick out past the wheel nut.
I love my SC10rs. I probly have twenty five 2s 5000mah lipo packs threw it and the only thing I have had to replace is the rear tires! Not a single breakage has occurred. and I am not gentle on it. It has been in sand, dirt, as the skate park and on pavement.
It is nearly time to pull the motor and clean it out, but otherwise it still looks/works great.
Generally tho, this only happens with used wheel nuts, as the nylon inside them that acts like thread lock gets worn down.
I have some Loctite "stick N seal ultra" that I have used to keep grub screws in pinion gears from coming out. I don't like to use regular thread lock, as it often makes it so you cant get the grub screw out. The stick N seal is like a thick, clear gel that hardens and stick even to metal. But when you want to get the screw out it is not that hard to remove from the pinion gear.
Im sure it could be used on a wheel nut...and the threads that stick out past the wheel nut.
I love my SC10rs. I probly have twenty five 2s 5000mah lipo packs threw it and the only thing I have had to replace is the rear tires! Not a single breakage has occurred. and I am not gentle on it. It has been in sand, dirt, as the skate park and on pavement.
It is nearly time to pull the motor and clean it out, but otherwise it still looks/works great.
#8
My brother and I have been running the SC10's since Feb. We go to the track once a week and run them HARD. They get beat up pretty good but come out with almost no damage. They are pretty tough. I did split the front end from the chassis though. I hit my favorite pole about 3 feet up an 30 mph. Hit just right and snapped the front end off.
I have not lost or had a wheel loosen up, my brother on the other hand, his wheels always loosen up. He has tried all sorts of wrenches and tightens them like the Hulk or just snugs them. Either way, after a battery he has to check them. It is way better now with the aluminum hex's, but he still has issues with them.
Buzz.
I have not lost or had a wheel loosen up, my brother on the other hand, his wheels always loosen up. He has tried all sorts of wrenches and tightens them like the Hulk or just snugs them. Either way, after a battery he has to check them. It is way better now with the aluminum hex's, but he still has issues with them.
Buzz.
#9
If ya can.... When replacing wheel nuts try to get the nyloc ones that have the spiral locking flange at the base
other ideas to reduce the possibility of it coming loose
replace nut if u have any consurns
shim axles (reduces lateral movement)
ballance wheels (reduced vibration)
periodically check the hub hex and the wheel hux for signs of slipping
but what ever u do, don't do them up excessively tight. This will crush the bearings, cause binding and premature bearing failure.
other ideas to reduce the possibility of it coming loose
replace nut if u have any consurns
shim axles (reduces lateral movement)
ballance wheels (reduced vibration)
periodically check the hub hex and the wheel hux for signs of slipping
but what ever u do, don't do them up excessively tight. This will crush the bearings, cause binding and premature bearing failure.