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Thread: rc10?


  1. #26

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    Oh, I also do feel like spending the 75 bucks for a 5000mah battery either. Or at least I haven't found anything lower priced. Aside from venom, what are some reputable battery brands?

  2. #27
    collector1231's Avatar
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    BIAS batteries from atomikrc.com are pretty good for the buck; 50 bucks gets you 50C and 5000 MAh. If you don't want the Atomik path, A Main Hobbies' EcoPower batteries are cheap and great for buggies.

  3. #28

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    Ok, good to know, how are the onyx brand? Both lhs in town carry them. Cheap at least for the nimh sets, unsure on Lipo if they carry them either.

  4. #29
    collector1231's Avatar
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    Onyx LiPOs aren't the greatest, but could get the job done.

  5. #30

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    I paid 15 for the onyx nimh that I have, but not sure what the lipos cost. Their dual chargers are expensive, 130 in town though which is why I checked for reviews on others and went with the thunder ac6 for 45. Ascend and one other brand they had, ok for price, but wanted to see reviews.

    I'm coming to the conclusion that this has a lot of parts from the truck version of the rc10 after looking at other ones. Not sure if it was done in convenience or a conversion.

  6. #31
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    Probably a conversion? The tires on the back remind me vaguely of stadium truck tires. Actually, any LiPO should work good for backyard bashing and having fun. Ascend is pretty decent and so is Onyx. Really up to you.

  7. #32

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    It came with a set of body posts for a truck body which I've seen tagged as a 90's version rc10** if I remember right, font shock mount tower also won't let the body pass through, and all the arms are wider, about 2.5 to 3 inches as a set of original rears came with it.

  8. #33

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    Dbl post, delete.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by greentornado View Post
    Yeah, I noticed that after looking at the classics, original arms aren't too bad on price so I might pick up them if I get it, I can't find the shocks though. Think I might see about picking it up tonight though. How can I tell if it's the 30th anniversary or the original from 84?
    If I'm not badly mistaken this is the first year of the RC10? I do know it was as World Championship winner. I owned and raced the Gold pan at least 15 year ago probably closer to 20 or 25 years ago. I can't remember exactly what year it was that I bought it. I know my oldest son was very young and he'll be 29 Aug 11th. I'm not sure how competitive it would be today on a track but I do know it's tuff as nail's and makes a great basher. You also got a steal on it with all extras. They have reintroduced this classic for a limited time.
    Mike Lawrence
    It\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'s nice to be important, but it\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'s more important to be nice

  10. #35

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    That was before I picked up, after talking to the guy I got it from and seeing how old he is has to put it to the earliest years it was made. With the longer arms and a good motor, I think it could hold its own on the track. I haven't done any racing yet, but do plan to, just bash for now. Seems every time I take my volcano out lately though I break it....

  11. #36

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    I'd be all over buying that car for $50 I'd even happily drop $100 on it, mainly due to the memories I have as a teenager with my original rc10. I still remember staying up till 4am putting my first one together and how excited I was upgrading to the stealth tranny.

  12. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by greentornado View Post
    It came with a set of body posts for a truck body which I've seen tagged as a 90's version rc10** if I remember right, font shock mount tower also won't let the body pass through, and all the arms are wider, about 2.5 to 3 inches as a set of original rears came with it.
    Looking a little closer the whole front end from the kick up forward is 10T, T2, or GT.

  13. #38

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    Yeah, I'm gonna pick up the gold front, retain the rpm bumper that's on it, and I'm still trying to figure out the servo linkage, might wind up picking up new steering horns and linkage.
    Last edited by greentornado; 07-31-2014 at 05:29 PM. Reason: phone is ....

  14. #39

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    How can i tell what Mah and voltage to set these batteries at to cycle them a few times? 2 are nicd, and Im unsure on the other one, one is 2400 Mah, All are 6 cell.

    Dyna-Stick
    SMC Nicd 2400Mah
    PTI Nicd

  15. #40
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    Cycle them with charge at 2 amps, and discharge at .5 amps.

  16. #41
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    I'm trying to look close at the details in the photo but what I believe you have is a mix of different Associated vehicles. It's hard to tell from a photo but it think the car may have started out as a buggy possibly. Could have been a truck since it appears to have the stealth transmission but I think someone attached suspension from a RC10T2. The front end is not from an RC10T, at least not all of it, it's likely a T2 shock tower. Although the black nose piece appears to be RC10. The shock setup isn't correct for that time period, probably from a T2 or T3.

    I couldn't see all of it but it looks like you don't have the 6-gear transmission which uses 32P gears and an external ball diff built into the spur. The give away is the spur gear on your car without the diff plates on both sides. I saw the half tranny case in the parts which is from the earlier Stealth gearbox. The 6-gear is about the same size but it has squared edges and isn't nearly as contoured.

    Being a gold chassis and if it was originally a 10T then it dates to about '91. But the black nose was found on the Championship Editions, I belive the Team car and definitely the Worlds car from '94. Unless this example is painted black, I can't tell. I see original RC10 arms mixed in the parts but they look too short for the 10T. I have a RC10 Graphite from '89 or so which had those arms and the 6-gear tranny. All the suspension parts were basically the same except that it was all bolted to a flat carbon fiber pan.
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  17. #42

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    Here are some closer up shots. 3 gear stealth tranny, came with the original rear arms, original front/rear arm supports, original gold front shocks (broken plastic and scratched up really bad). In the last pic, left side between the arm and the nose brace, im not sure if that is the front body mount/upper arm linkage for buggy or not.






















  18. #43
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    Those are good photos. I'm going to say that this is a 10T but, at some point it was missing parts or a previous owner wanted to do some upgrades and installed T2 arms, front shock tower, shocks and mounts. The steering knuckles appear to be correct for a 10T, however, they would have originally been white. Associated did offer optional black plastic parts for the RC10s and RPM made a few pieces too. I've switch most of my car to black plastic with RPM rear arms specifically for RC10s. Anyhow, that piece in the last photo is a "upper deck" or "chassis brace" from another vehicle. Maybe the T2 / B2, I don't recall what they look like. But, it won't fit onto this truck. One later generations, this is what replaced the aluminum tubes when they switched from aluminum pans to composite chassis'. I also see the original style front arm / shock tower mounts in the center. Those are RC10 rear arms but I want to say those are buggy arms, truck arms might have been a little longer. Hard to say from a photo.

    It's a customized RC10T. Unique but whoever did the customization apparently stuck with T2 parts which isn't necessarily a bad thing. It hurts collector value but, it makes the truck drive more like a modern vehicle while retaining some vintage appearance. Cool!
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  19. #44

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    Rear arms, front/Rear arm holders, all 4 gold shocks, both battery trays and rear bulkhead I know are rc10 from looking through associated parts. The rc10 arms in the last pic are really stained and brittle, where the rest of the arms still have the flexibility that they should have. My goal at this point is to return it back to the buggy form. Gold front, black arms, new rpm bumper (added versatility since to rc10 didn't have one from what I've seen, just the truck version), new motor/esc and replace the body that is in horrible condition. I'll probably buy new gold shock pieces too. It has the rc10 gold and black shocks and rc10 shocks, all full sets, just most of them are broken. So I figure 80 on buggy parts, 15 on body, 40ish on motor and esc, 15 to 20 on a screw set and it should pretty much be back to a good running vintage style buggy again. I'll probably have it for a year or 2 then look into selling it for another project, with my timeframe right now and working more on the tornado and m8, I'm thinking 2 months or so and I'll have this pretty much done.


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