Want to start in RC Cars.
08-18-2014, 07:16 PM
#26
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Car - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEDYL&P=ML
Battery - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYYZ7&P=0
charger - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGUG&P=0
This is everything I'm gonna buy in October. Is there anything else I may need to start out in rc cars?
Battery - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYYZ7&P=0
charger - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGUG&P=0
This is everything I'm gonna buy in October. Is there anything else I may need to start out in rc cars?
08-19-2014, 07:04 AM
#27
Diff fluid http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...RCH=diff+fluid
I'd suggest 7000wt for front and center diffs, 5000wt rear. They come from the factory with a little grease in them. Clean 'em out and put in the fluid.
Lubricant: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXATCH&P=7
degreaser for cleaning bearings: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSEL1&P=ML
If you don't have a good set of hex drivers you'll need some. Buy quality first. MIP make good ones. You'll need 1.5mm, 2.0mm and 2.5mm.
IMO, you're over-paying for that Venom battery, but you apparently have the means, and prefer ordering everything from Tower. That's cool. But you can save considerable money if you consider alternatives. At least well-known alternatives. Some call it "cheap Chinese junk", but in my experience, they're just as good as anything else. Cheap servos can be dodgy, but batteries, motor systems and chargers, if you know the right brands, work great and are considerably cheaper.
I'd suggest 7000wt for front and center diffs, 5000wt rear. They come from the factory with a little grease in them. Clean 'em out and put in the fluid.
Lubricant: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXATCH&P=7
degreaser for cleaning bearings: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSEL1&P=ML
If you don't have a good set of hex drivers you'll need some. Buy quality first. MIP make good ones. You'll need 1.5mm, 2.0mm and 2.5mm.
IMO, you're over-paying for that Venom battery, but you apparently have the means, and prefer ordering everything from Tower. That's cool. But you can save considerable money if you consider alternatives. At least well-known alternatives. Some call it "cheap Chinese junk", but in my experience, they're just as good as anything else. Cheap servos can be dodgy, but batteries, motor systems and chargers, if you know the right brands, work great and are considerably cheaper.
08-19-2014, 07:42 AM
#28
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Diff fluid http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...RCH=diff+fluid
I'd suggest 7000wt for front and center diffs, 5000wt rear. They come from the factory with a little grease in them. Clean 'em out and put in the fluid.
Lubricant: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXATCH&P=7
degreaser for cleaning bearings: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSEL1&P=ML
If you don't have a good set of hex drivers you'll need some. Buy quality first. MIP make good ones. You'll need 1.5mm, 2.0mm and 2.5mm.
IMO, you're over-paying for that Venom battery, but you apparently have the means, and prefer ordering everything from Tower. That's cool. But you can save considerable money if you consider alternatives. At least well-known alternatives. Some call it "cheap Chinese junk", but in my experience, they're just as good as anything else. Cheap servos can be dodgy, but batteries, motor systems and chargers, if you know the right brands, work great and are considerably cheaper.
I'd suggest 7000wt for front and center diffs, 5000wt rear. They come from the factory with a little grease in them. Clean 'em out and put in the fluid.
Lubricant: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXATCH&P=7
degreaser for cleaning bearings: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSEL1&P=ML
If you don't have a good set of hex drivers you'll need some. Buy quality first. MIP make good ones. You'll need 1.5mm, 2.0mm and 2.5mm.
IMO, you're over-paying for that Venom battery, but you apparently have the means, and prefer ordering everything from Tower. That's cool. But you can save considerable money if you consider alternatives. At least well-known alternatives. Some call it "cheap Chinese junk", but in my experience, they're just as good as anything else. Cheap servos can be dodgy, but batteries, motor systems and chargers, if you know the right brands, work great and are considerably cheaper.
08-19-2014, 07:33 PM
#30
Good choice. You won't regret it.
You're going to need TWO Lipos. OR one 4S Lipo...
You might want to consider getting a 3S Lipo to use while you learn to drive that fast buggy, and get a 4S later, when you've gotten to be a good driver and not hit stuff. 4S is a LOT of power.
Whatever battery you choose (and I do recommend those two above) I highly suggest staying with lipos rated 40C minimum. That rating is indicative of how much current (amps) the pack can supply. If a motor system tries to draw more than the pack can comfortably deliver, the pack can heat up. A little is ok, but too hot, and they can puff, or swell. In which case, the battery is suspect. So don't be tempted by the less expensive packs that are only 25C.
NOTE that you will have to change the battery connector to match the Deans connector on the car. If you don't know how to solder, get someone to do it for you.
You're going to need TWO Lipos. OR one 4S Lipo...
You might want to consider getting a 3S Lipo to use while you learn to drive that fast buggy, and get a 4S later, when you've gotten to be a good driver and not hit stuff. 4S is a LOT of power.
Whatever battery you choose (and I do recommend those two above) I highly suggest staying with lipos rated 40C minimum. That rating is indicative of how much current (amps) the pack can supply. If a motor system tries to draw more than the pack can comfortably deliver, the pack can heat up. A little is ok, but too hot, and they can puff, or swell. In which case, the battery is suspect. So don't be tempted by the less expensive packs that are only 25C.
NOTE that you will have to change the battery connector to match the Deans connector on the car. If you don't know how to solder, get someone to do it for you.
Sound advice.
Also consider this, like most 1/8 vehicles there are probably 2 connectors on the ESC so, he would have to un-solder the "Y" and make it into a single connector to run the 3S pack. I used to have the older Ofna buggy 8e and it was a tough buggy. It was by no means quick and the instructions advised that altering gear ratios would void the warranty. I think it had a Leopard 1/8 in it. The specs on the SSe look better than the 8e so I imagine this wouldn't be an issue. The only gripe I had about it (probably because it was being discontinued) was that parts were difficult to obtain.
I wanted to touch on the Traxxas brushed 4x4 for a second. The bogus part about them is that Traxxas made them brushless "un-friendly" by using a plastic driveshaft instead of the aluminum tube on the brushless versions. You would have to upgrade this part too.
08-19-2014, 07:57 PM
#31
wow that is pretty low of traxxas to do
08-19-2014, 09:42 PM
#33
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All sound advice for getting into the hobby. One word of advice is when you start to upgrade parts be careful not to go over board with them. If you see a bunch of stuff you thing are cool and shiny add them to you wish list but then as you did for picking an new RC ask others about what they have done with their upgrades and hop ups. Some will make you machine better others just look good but where not worth it in the long run.
My one friend is and example of going over the top. He got a Traxxas Rustler new and ready to run a fine truck (I have one myself one of the first generation). Well he started looking at what he can get for upgrades and such. He got hooked on the shiny aluminum parts and replaced almost every part to the point he ended up with two rustlers using the reason that he would give the plastic one to his kids to use. The new shiny one looked great but became quite heavy he was trying to make it bullet proof but you need a good mix of original and new to get a good result I have found and save on money. With all his upgrades his like mine when he lost control of his truck at full speed and hit a unmovable object need much repair.
I had caught a bit of the bug to and did a bunch of upgrades to my old rc but money well lack of helped keep me from going over the top and got what I needed to bring it up to today's rc abilities and some bling to. Thats my ten cents worth all in all would say enjoy the hobby and have fun with it do your research before you buy as you have and it can save money and keep it fun.
My one friend is and example of going over the top. He got a Traxxas Rustler new and ready to run a fine truck (I have one myself one of the first generation). Well he started looking at what he can get for upgrades and such. He got hooked on the shiny aluminum parts and replaced almost every part to the point he ended up with two rustlers using the reason that he would give the plastic one to his kids to use. The new shiny one looked great but became quite heavy he was trying to make it bullet proof but you need a good mix of original and new to get a good result I have found and save on money. With all his upgrades his like mine when he lost control of his truck at full speed and hit a unmovable object need much repair.
I had caught a bit of the bug to and did a bunch of upgrades to my old rc but money well lack of helped keep me from going over the top and got what I needed to bring it up to today's rc abilities and some bling to. Thats my ten cents worth all in all would say enjoy the hobby and have fun with it do your research before you buy as you have and it can save money and keep it fun.
08-20-2014, 11:37 AM
#34
I love that TrakPower Krytech lube. I use it on CVDs, hinge pins, ball joints. Great stuff!
In regards to batteries:
I have a mixed review of Venom batteries. On one hand they have a "life time" warranty if you keep your receipt. There are terms and conditions to the warranty but they have replacement coverage for the first year. On the other hand I've seen several of their packs come back to the shop with customers wanting to file claims because they've "puffed" or I've seen the wires break inside the case. We can argue that the owner was probably not caring for them as they should; and I would probably agree. But the Turnigy packs I've been getting from HobbyKing hold up a lot better. You can get a pair of 2S 40C packs shipped to you for about $60.
This is an example: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html
There are many choices but I agree with Rob, these "Chinese" packs offer performance that often times rivals that of "name brand" packs for literally half the price. The Turnigy's are my personal favorite but I've also used Zippy's. My brother swears by Gens Ace from Hobbypartz. Lots of other folks speak highly of them too. We can offer suggestions and such but the essentials are that you choose a pack that can support the amperage and preferably is rated at least 5000mAh.
In regards to batteries:
I have a mixed review of Venom batteries. On one hand they have a "life time" warranty if you keep your receipt. There are terms and conditions to the warranty but they have replacement coverage for the first year. On the other hand I've seen several of their packs come back to the shop with customers wanting to file claims because they've "puffed" or I've seen the wires break inside the case. We can argue that the owner was probably not caring for them as they should; and I would probably agree. But the Turnigy packs I've been getting from HobbyKing hold up a lot better. You can get a pair of 2S 40C packs shipped to you for about $60.
This is an example: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html
There are many choices but I agree with Rob, these "Chinese" packs offer performance that often times rivals that of "name brand" packs for literally half the price. The Turnigy's are my personal favorite but I've also used Zippy's. My brother swears by Gens Ace from Hobbypartz. Lots of other folks speak highly of them too. We can offer suggestions and such but the essentials are that you choose a pack that can support the amperage and preferably is rated at least 5000mAh.
08-20-2014, 03:57 PM
#35
I love that TrakPower Krytech lube. I use it on CVDs, hinge pins, ball joints. Great stuff!
In regards to batteries:
I have a mixed review of Venom batteries. On one hand they have a "life time" warranty if you keep your receipt. There are terms and conditions to the warranty but they have replacement coverage for the first year. On the other hand I've seen several of their packs come back to the shop with customers wanting to file claims because they've "puffed" or I've seen the wires break inside the case. We can argue that the owner was probably not caring for them as they should; and I would probably agree. But the Turnigy packs I've been getting from HobbyKing hold up a lot better. You can get a pair of 2S 40C packs shipped to you for about $60.
This is an example: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html
There are many choices but I agree with Rob, these "Chinese" packs offer performance that often times rivals that of "name brand" packs for literally half the price. The Turnigy's are my personal favorite but I've also used Zippy's. My brother swears by Gens Ace from Hobbypartz. Lots of other folks speak highly of them too. We can offer suggestions and such but the essentials are that you choose a pack that can support the amperage and preferably is rated at least 5000mAh.
In regards to batteries:
I have a mixed review of Venom batteries. On one hand they have a "life time" warranty if you keep your receipt. There are terms and conditions to the warranty but they have replacement coverage for the first year. On the other hand I've seen several of their packs come back to the shop with customers wanting to file claims because they've "puffed" or I've seen the wires break inside the case. We can argue that the owner was probably not caring for them as they should; and I would probably agree. But the Turnigy packs I've been getting from HobbyKing hold up a lot better. You can get a pair of 2S 40C packs shipped to you for about $60.
This is an example: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html
There are many choices but I agree with Rob, these "Chinese" packs offer performance that often times rivals that of "name brand" packs for literally half the price. The Turnigy's are my personal favorite but I've also used Zippy's. My brother swears by Gens Ace from Hobbypartz. Lots of other folks speak highly of them too. We can offer suggestions and such but the essentials are that you choose a pack that can support the amperage and preferably is rated at least 5000mAh.
Not sure if it was just one bad battery or what.
08-20-2014, 04:21 PM
#36
Wow, my buddy and I have been using Gens Ace since going lipo three years ago and have never had that happen, Syco. That's a bummer! And of course, you didn't keep a receipt, huh? Me either. lol I think you were un-lucky and got a bad one. The Turnigy held the best charge, huh?
08-21-2014, 09:33 AM
#38
I haven't used a GensAce personally but so far the Turnigy packs hold up for me. I've had a Losi that was stored for almost a year, the voltage was around 3.8/cell but I could see a buldge in the case. I've used it a couple of times since and it hasn't gotten worse but that still ticks me off! There's no turning back at that point.
A Zippy 6S for my helicopter, however, sat for about 3 months initially at around 3.8V/cell and when I brought it out to use again, two of the cells were way down around 2V. My charger wouldn't begin the charge cycle. I had to "tap" into the balance lead for those cells and slow charge them a bit to get the voltage up with the other cells. From there a normal balance charge brought it back. My charger shows resistance of the cells too and those have more resistance than the rest. I have another Zippy 6S just like it and it didn't have this issue. One of those flukes I guess.
A Zippy 6S for my helicopter, however, sat for about 3 months initially at around 3.8V/cell and when I brought it out to use again, two of the cells were way down around 2V. My charger wouldn't begin the charge cycle. I had to "tap" into the balance lead for those cells and slow charge them a bit to get the voltage up with the other cells. From there a normal balance charge brought it back. My charger shows resistance of the cells too and those have more resistance than the rest. I have another Zippy 6S just like it and it didn't have this issue. One of those flukes I guess.
08-21-2014, 06:33 PM
#39
Wow, my buddy and I have been using Gens Ace since going lipo three years ago and have never had that happen, Syco. That's a bummer! And of course, you didn't keep a receipt, huh? Me either. lol I think you were un-lucky and got a bad one. The Turnigy held the best charge, huh?
The gens ace was used in a brushed merv, and a RC18b(brushed) a handful of times. I was also planning to use it in Vaterra Kalahari that I forgot I bought for awhile as it has a smaller battery tray like the merv.
But yea I figured I got a bad battery which why I didn't go around saying they are crap like some people I've seen that get one bad product the 1st time, and decide all are the same. Was planning on buying another 2 when I get some spare cash to waste, then if both of those would have issues I'd say they were crap
.
08-25-2014, 06:03 PM
#40
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