Ofna ultra lxe2 electronics suggestions/recommendations?
09-12-2014, 07:20 AM
#27
You want to go with either Deans, Traxxas, OR you could just use the bullets, as they're just as good as the others. If I was buying all new stuff, that is probably the way I'd go today. Providing the charger and batteries have compatible connectors.
But I do like my Traxxas connectors. The thing I like about them is that the metal bits you solder are separate from the housing, until you solder them and insert them into the housing. With the Deans, the connectors are molded into the housing, and if you're not quick with the iron, you melt the housing and your connector is now junk.
The thing you have to be careful with when soldering battery connectors is, keeping the wires from touching each other. The safest way to do it, if you are going to change connectors, is to cut one wire and solder it to the new connector. Insert that wire into its new housing. (You're eliminating the possibility of the bare wires touching) Then cut the other wire and solder it to the new connector.
THE most important thing when soldering, is to make sure you have a good solder joint. One that is nice and shiney and smooth. If it looks dull and crackly, that is called a "cold" solder joint, and it can come apart later, or have high resistance, so re-do it. If you use Traxxas plugs, the wire cannot go past a little line on the metal tab, so the bare end of the wire can only be like 3/16ths inch. "Tin" the bare wire by heating it with the iron and applying solder to the wire until it soaks enough up to look like it's shiney. (You also want to make sure your solder tip is clean and shiney before you start, and you should be using at least a 30 watt iron) Then solder the wire to the tab making sure not to cross "the line". Be careful not to let anything move once you remove the iron and the solder cools. LIke I said, you want that nice smooth, shiney look. Once the solder and connector tab is cool, insert it into the appropriate side of the connector, then do the other one.
And yes, if you choose to change connectors, you can just cut off the one that comes with the charger and solder on your own. Easiest way.
But I do like my Traxxas connectors. The thing I like about them is that the metal bits you solder are separate from the housing, until you solder them and insert them into the housing. With the Deans, the connectors are molded into the housing, and if you're not quick with the iron, you melt the housing and your connector is now junk.
The thing you have to be careful with when soldering battery connectors is, keeping the wires from touching each other. The safest way to do it, if you are going to change connectors, is to cut one wire and solder it to the new connector. Insert that wire into its new housing. (You're eliminating the possibility of the bare wires touching) Then cut the other wire and solder it to the new connector.
THE most important thing when soldering, is to make sure you have a good solder joint. One that is nice and shiney and smooth. If it looks dull and crackly, that is called a "cold" solder joint, and it can come apart later, or have high resistance, so re-do it. If you use Traxxas plugs, the wire cannot go past a little line on the metal tab, so the bare end of the wire can only be like 3/16ths inch. "Tin" the bare wire by heating it with the iron and applying solder to the wire until it soaks enough up to look like it's shiney. (You also want to make sure your solder tip is clean and shiney before you start, and you should be using at least a 30 watt iron) Then solder the wire to the tab making sure not to cross "the line". Be careful not to let anything move once you remove the iron and the solder cools. LIke I said, you want that nice smooth, shiney look. Once the solder and connector tab is cool, insert it into the appropriate side of the connector, then do the other one.
And yes, if you choose to change connectors, you can just cut off the one that comes with the charger and solder on your own. Easiest way.
09-12-2014, 08:18 AM
#29
Yeah, bullets, EC-3, EC-5. They'd all work fine. You just want to have a solid connection, and a large surface area, to handle all that current. That's why the Tamiya (Molex) connectors suck so badly: too small connectors that don't have a large enough surface area to carry the current. They heat up and melt the plastic casing they're in.
09-13-2014, 03:32 AM
#30
My vote is the Traxxas connectors. I run them on everything... Not just rc cars lol. I'm using them on my real car. I fitted a 10" thermo fan and I've used the Traxxas connectors to have a quick release high current connector, So if i ever have to remove the fan or radiator. It's easier. I'm also using Traxxas connectors for a kids ride on car.... The stock ones melted on 4s lol...
but I do have over 7 years of using Traxxas connectors. I defiantly say they are...
less maintenance than deans connectors
u don't need heat sharing to solder them
very easy to plug/unplug
ive been using them on 1/10 crawlers to 1/8 buggy and everything inbetween and they get my vote.
only problem I've seen.... Some of the massive 4s and 6s lipos with a high c rating, there wires are to fat for the Traxxas connector but....
some of the clone Traxxas connectors have a larger space that will work. Also some of the clone ones have a embossed hatched spot for a more secure solder joint....and IMO the clone connectors are less likely to back out of the connector when they start to get old and worn
but I do have over 7 years of using Traxxas connectors. I defiantly say they are...
less maintenance than deans connectors
u don't need heat sharing to solder them
very easy to plug/unplug
ive been using them on 1/10 crawlers to 1/8 buggy and everything inbetween and they get my vote.
only problem I've seen.... Some of the massive 4s and 6s lipos with a high c rating, there wires are to fat for the Traxxas connector but....
some of the clone Traxxas connectors have a larger space that will work. Also some of the clone ones have a embossed hatched spot for a more secure solder joint....and IMO the clone connectors are less likely to back out of the connector when they start to get old and worn
