EZRUN-S10 RTR ESC Help Me Please!
09-03-2014, 11:47 AM
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EZRUN-S10 RTR ESC Help Me Please!
I have a Redcat Volcano EPX Pro. It has aluminum upgrades. I had to order a new spur gear. But im pretty sure its the same ratio as stock. It was running 2wd but just made it back 4wd. The motor got hot and now its shot. I think.. it could b esc... idk. When I try to give it throttle it stutters BAD! As in will stop completely after stuttering, yet steering works fine.But if I slowly and steadily add throttle, itll accelerate to full speed. Im running a hexfly 3800mah 7.2v nimh but also tried my 11.1v rc airplane lipo which is 20c and 2200mah.... I think ive got the lvc disabled but only for one run to see if that was the problem. This happened out of nowhere all I did was go on a slow drive up the road that ended in tearing up asand patch. Then motor went hot as hell.. now this.. plz help... it was my 25th bday present.
09-05-2014, 04:55 AM
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After only minutes of this car stuttering around on my floor the motor gets super hot. I have a21t gear on the motor. Compared to the 26 it came with... how can I change the gearing without buying a new gear... frustration is winning.
09-09-2014, 11:33 AM
#5
Sorry! Missed this one.
OK, sounds like you bought this used? And the previous owner had been running it as 2wd? Uh-huh. Sounds like the previous owner didn't take care of it, and you may have some bad bearings, causing drag, causing the motor to get hot. What we need to know is, HOW hot? A motor can run happily between 125-160F, which is pretty hot, but not TOO hot. TOO hot is anything over 180F. I suggest getting a IR thermometer and measure the motor and ESC temps.
As for the stuttering, you may have a loose motor wire connection. I have EZrun motors too. I had one start doing that "give it throttle and all the car does is stutter" thing, and I found that one of the bullet connectors wasn't fitting tightly like the other two. The male bullet has a finned collar-like thing that creates a tight fit in the female end. But this wasn't doing the job. I just gently squeezed the female end of the bullet receptacle so that it would grip the male bullet securely. If you can make the car stutter on the car stand, try squeezing each motor wire at the connector to see if that makes the stuttering stop. If it does, you found the bad connection. If possible, replace the male and female connector.
And changing gearing: the way you change the gearing IS by changing the pinion gear. But before you go changing the gearing, you need to get the car running. THEN, check the motor and ESC temps. That is how you determine "proper gearing". Usually, a car will come with factory installed gears that they determined is the best fit for the car and motor system. But everything affects everything else. If you happen to put a smaller motor in the car than what the factory designed the car around, that motor will get hotter than if you'd used a larger motor, with the same gearing. So you'd have to gear down, otherwise the motor would get too hot.
Conversely, if you installed a large motor and a smaller pinion, the car would be under-geared and the ESC would heat up. Maybe the motor too, if geared really low.
And it depends on what voltage you're running. A car geared properly for a given motor system on 2S lipo, will probably get too hot if you slapped a 3S lipo in there without gearing it down a tooth or two.
That all make sense to ya?
OK, sounds like you bought this used? And the previous owner had been running it as 2wd? Uh-huh. Sounds like the previous owner didn't take care of it, and you may have some bad bearings, causing drag, causing the motor to get hot. What we need to know is, HOW hot? A motor can run happily between 125-160F, which is pretty hot, but not TOO hot. TOO hot is anything over 180F. I suggest getting a IR thermometer and measure the motor and ESC temps.
As for the stuttering, you may have a loose motor wire connection. I have EZrun motors too. I had one start doing that "give it throttle and all the car does is stutter" thing, and I found that one of the bullet connectors wasn't fitting tightly like the other two. The male bullet has a finned collar-like thing that creates a tight fit in the female end. But this wasn't doing the job. I just gently squeezed the female end of the bullet receptacle so that it would grip the male bullet securely. If you can make the car stutter on the car stand, try squeezing each motor wire at the connector to see if that makes the stuttering stop. If it does, you found the bad connection. If possible, replace the male and female connector.
And changing gearing: the way you change the gearing IS by changing the pinion gear. But before you go changing the gearing, you need to get the car running. THEN, check the motor and ESC temps. That is how you determine "proper gearing". Usually, a car will come with factory installed gears that they determined is the best fit for the car and motor system. But everything affects everything else. If you happen to put a smaller motor in the car than what the factory designed the car around, that motor will get hotter than if you'd used a larger motor, with the same gearing. So you'd have to gear down, otherwise the motor would get too hot.
Conversely, if you installed a large motor and a smaller pinion, the car would be under-geared and the ESC would heat up. Maybe the motor too, if geared really low.
And it depends on what voltage you're running. A car geared properly for a given motor system on 2S lipo, will probably get too hot if you slapped a 3S lipo in there without gearing it down a tooth or two.
That all make sense to ya?
