zackS30

Yeah I saw that sorry, slipped my mind.
Does everything work as it should now?

skygreen67

I hope it will... still waiting for the new pinions and motor/esc

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

NICE! Got a refund on the sketchy motor system, and you're buying a HobbyWing. Problem solved.

skygreen67

Id still like to get the other one working properly but at least this way ill be able to use it

skygreen67

Alright my hobbywing esc and motor just arrived... it even came with an adapter so i can use the 5mm pinions... but no one said id have to solder this one too lol... oh well i guess ill get to it... hopefully ill get thiss one soldered right the first time... wish me luck

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

You won't need it, but good luck anyway!

CptKlink

This combo you shouldn't have any problems with. And if you do have the right pitch matching each other you will be rippin it up in no time.

skygreen67

Holy crap talk about power... but b4 i do too much to it could someone just confirm with me that my s3 is suitable for it the info for my battery is...

Capacity: 5000mAh
Voltage: 3S1P / 3 Cell / 11.1V
Discharge: 40C Constant / 50C Burst
Weight: 420g (including wire, plug & case)
Dimensions: 156x45x30mm
Balance Plug: JST-XH
Discharge Plug: HXT4mm

The info foe the esc is...
1.1 Output: EZRUN-SC8: Continuous 120A, burst 760A
1.2 Input: EZRUN-SC8: 6-12 cell NiMH/NiCd or 2-4S LiPo
1.3 BEC Output: * Note #1 EZRUN-SC8: 6V/3A (Switching mode)
1.4 Resistance: EZRUN-SC8: 0.0004 Ohm
1.5 Motor Supported: Sensorless Brushless Motor
1.6 Suitable Brushless Motor: EZRUN-SC8:
With 6 cell NiMH/NiCd or 2S LiPo: KV≤6000
With 7-9 cell NiMH/NiCd or 3S LiPo: KV≤4000
With 10-12 cell NiMH/NiCd or 4S LiPo: KV≤3000
1.7 Suitable Car: EZRUN-WP-SC8: 1/10 4WD SCT, 1/8 2WD and 4WD buggy and SCT (Include TRAXXAS 1/10 SCT)
1.8 Size: 53.5mm(L) * 36mm(W) * 36mm(H)
1.9 Weight: EZRUN-WP-SC8: 98g
Note #1: The EZRUN-SC8 cooling fan is powered by the built-in BEC.

The info for the motor is...
3400kv
2-3s lipo
4 poles

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Just be sure that the ESC fan can handle 3S. I have an EZrun combo that is 2-3S, BUT in order to RUN 3S you have to change out the ESC fan for a 12V fan.

skygreen67

Yeah i thought i made a post about that last night... the fan cant handle a 3s and the wires were way way too short to plug into the receiver but luckily enough the fan for motor heatsink was the same size but with a longer wire so i swapped them and was able to reach the receiver and plug it in there... i wish i had thought about that sooner and i would have ordered one

skygreen67

Wait i was just looking at a battery with the same specs as mine and im not 100% sure if im right or not but my esc can handle 120a continuous and wouldnt my battery put out 200a continuous (40c*5.0 (5000mah))?

nitrosportsandrunner

that's not how the flow of amps goes. the motor draws "X" amps (depending on motor size, # of poles and KV and load) from the ESC....the ESC then draws that from the battery.
In other words, if the ESC is rated at 120a....then it can provide 120a at most to the motor. So it will never draw more than 120a from the battery. The fact that the battery can supply more does not mean that it will hurt the ESC.
Also, it is a good idea to have a battery that can supply more than the ESC can ask for....that way there will not be much strain on the battery and it will last longer. if you battery could only put out 100amps then it could be over-stressed by your ESC, causing the cells to heat up and swell. That is 1 way people get lipo fires.

skygreen67

Wow thank you... that was a great explanation... and i feel much better about my battery now... to be honest i know as long as youre smart with them lipos are fine but they scare the crap out of me... ive done some research on lipos but i still sketchy on a lot of it... and im very annoyed right now... my soldering gun is acting up again and 2 of the joints broke off... i might not have a choice but to use my 15w soldering iron

CptKlink

Oh I don't think a 15 watt iron is enough. My 40 watt cheapy is barely enough to solder the wires needed for motors and connectors.

DieHarder

100W! Don't get the HFT one though, read it come DOA or makes sparks within the casing.

nitrosportsandrunner

the truth is a NIMH battery can be dangerous too. Overcharge them or over-discharge them and there is a chance of fire. Granted, you wont get 4' flames shooting out, but any fire is dangerous.

Lipo's have the same dangers...plus one extra, you can get fire if you puncher a cell. puncher a nimh cell and you wont get much of anything. puncher a cell of a charged lipo and you get smoke....then flames. This is why many lipo packs are sold as Hardcased. But even the softcase packs can take some abuse....I have had a 3s softcase thrown out of a car at 30mph before...without damage.

so, basically the rules for nimh and lipo are the same. Don't over charge. Don't over-discharge (to much demand on them). don't puncher. The only extra for lipos is don't drain the cells below 3.0v (3.2v to be safe) which is why many ESC's can detect the lipo's voltage and will cut power to the motor when voltage drops below a certain point.

Ive been using lipo for 6 years now (planes, crawlers, race trucks) and while I have had some packs die, I have not had a fire or even smoke.

I do follow one simple precaution.....I NEVER leave home with a lipo on the charger. Just in case the charger malfunctioned and over-charged the lipo...I want to be home so I can prevent the lipo from burning down my house. Better safe than sorry.

skygreen67

Yup my 100w gun is toast this time i think for good... but i mean its a weller junior 8100k from the 54s n its lasted til now... so yea i tried to do the repairs with the 15w and theyre holding nice and firm tomorrow ill see if i can afford a new gun and redo them... but a have another issue now... i was extremely dumb and put the esc to full power not rly thinking and shredded my pinion... i know this is meant for helicopters but it is a mod 0.6 its hardend steel and i believe ill probably need 15t so would this work at all? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/310399396061

nitrosportsandrunner

that pinion is for a 5mm motor shaft. Id assume yours is 3mm (most 540 and 550 motors have 3mm...tho sum do have a 5mm shaft)

I know I went and bought a pack of robinson racing gears that were .6 mod.

If you shredded the stock pinion gear, I know that can happen. Was the gear the brass one, or the pot-metal one? The brass will strip or at least wear down quickly. The pot metal ones will snap teeth right off them.

Full throttle isn't specifically the issue. Setting the punch control to ramp up the power instead of going from 0-100% will help a lot.

CptKlink

Ya you can't go wrong with robinson racing pinion gears they are pretty much the best out there. I have a full set rangeing from 17t to 24t and they all still look pretty much new and I have beat on them all. And if I remember right nitro skygreen said his esc/motor combo came with a 5mm to 3mm pinion adapter so he could use a wide range of pinion gears.

Heres a few that would work directly on to your motor without the adapter.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEX38&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX39&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEX40&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEX41&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEX42&P=7

If you don't like tower hobbies you can also get them from Amain, Or Horizon Hobby, also on ebays search for parts number RRP1112 to RRP1124 thoes are all the pinion gears from 12t to 24t with a 1/8 bore and mod.6 pitch

At least your not running normal 48 pitch with a 5mm motor shaft like me. My Neu-Castle 1410 series 3800KV motor has a 5mm shaft and at first it was a real pain to find 5mm bore 48 pitch pinion gears and from all my searching robinson racing are the only ones that make them.

skygreen67

I just bought a set of aluminum mod 0.6 1/8 bore 14-19t off ebay... i thought they were steel but oh well... yes it came with a 5mm adapter... and the punch was at its highest (either 90 or 100%) i see now that it was a really bad idea... as for material for the pinion i believe the stock was brass tho it snapped the teeth right off (and it was meshed properly)... and i realize this as well... i definitely should not be using the steel spur with the settings that high... but in theory if i was to use the steel spur again but on a lower setting would that heli pinion work? And can anyone give me a rough idea what should be the highest i should put it at? It worked great while i was holding it mid air but as soon as i put it down it just chewed it to pieces (but the spur took no damage at all) so does that mean that my truck is too heavy for those settings? Are those just crappy pinions? Should i not be using a steel spur? Or should i just never attempt to use those settings?

CptKlink

I'm thinking crappy pinions and since your useing a steel spur I would of gotten steel pinions as well thats why i linked you to the Robinson Racing ones there all Hardened steel and would be a nice match to your steel spur gear. Useing a steel spur is fine just as long as your useing a matching material pinion gear. Well thats been my experience anyways. Its usaully ok to run a plastic spur and steel pinion. And steel to steel is ok but when you choose a weaker material for the pinion then what the spur is made of then you might run in to problems. The reason being is I don't know the proper term but there is alot more direct torque going through the pinion gear then there is through the spur. Well something like that anyways.

skygreen67

I was looking at them and their web site says they should only be used with a plastic spur

CptKlink

Which ones do you mean the aluminum ones you just got from ebay or the Robinson racing ones I was talking about?

But it usually it is always recommended to keep the spur gear plastic because that is usually the cheapest part in the whole drivetrain/transmission and you want to keep at least one part a give/break point so if something does break its not something more expensive. But you can get stronger plastic spur gears like Losi makes a kevlar Spur gear. Also another good one to find I forgot which companys makes them but if you can find Delrin Spurgears thoes are supposed to be really good from reading around but I have never personally tried them so I can't say anything from my own experience.

skygreen67

i was talking about the robinson ones... ill check out some other spurs and see what i can find but i think ill have a lot of trouble finding one to fit the volcano... but i really dont mind finding a one that fits and a different pitch ill just buy a new set of pinions

CptKlink

I think every company recommends to use a plastic spur gear. But I know quite a few people that run steel spur gears with the robinson racing pinions gears with no problems for years. As long as you have a good gear mesh it will be fine.