DieHarder

It's here! Associated's replacement for the 4x4 SC10! Looks awesome! Bodies are really cool (comes in two styles), HD diffs, big 550 4-pole brushless motor, adjustable camber/toe in, metric hex hardware, and quality, high end Reedy electronics! The plastic shocks look kind of wimpy though, not sure why they didn't do aluminum bodies. What do you guys think?



Tower Hobbies: http://www.towerhobbies.com/products...ed/ascd62.html

Associated Website: http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a...ProSC_4x4/RTR/

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

Looks too cheap and plastic-y. And those shocks are WAY too small.

trekathlete

Everything I have read states that this is not a replacement for the SC10 4x4 but it is more like a entry level / basher truck. It is not a high level competition truck hence why it has less expensive, lower quality parts like plastic shock bodies. It should suit anyone getting into RC and even RC racing but its just not as quality built as their actual race machines.

DieHarder

It goes for $350. Very similarly priced to the SC10 4x4. It's definitely not any competition to Tekno or Mugen, but it does fall more in the ballpark of the Slash, Losi trucks, Blitz, etc. If I was looking for a SCT, I would probably either get this or the ProLite 4x4. Then I would swap shocks for some real-deal ones, do a tire/rim upgrade, and run it.

I think any of the Traxxas Slashes look pretty plastic-y.

trekathlete

I think that the SC10 4x4 RTR MSRP was $739.99 so the ProSC is quite a bit less expensive most likely due to the drop in quality parts and limited engineering design. Also I think the ProSC is just an upgrade to the ProLite 4x4. They are both part of the "Qualifier Series" that Team Associated is now promoting. You can also tell the difference from "Qualifier Series" cars to the real Associated cars by the naming convention. Now with that said I am sure that the new 4x4 trucks are good trucks but they aren't researched and engineered for racing like Team Associated's other cars and trucks are. Now if you aren't racing its the perfect way to get into RC or even if you are racing but you don't want to spend a whole wad of cash but I wouldn't compare them to the SC10 4x4 or any of the other cars not part of the "Qualifier Series". It's kind of like comparing the Chevy Comaro to the Corvette. Nothing wrong with the Comaro but it's NOT a Corvette.

Also take what I am saying with a grain of salt because I am just getting back into RC and I picked up a used SC10 4x4 but before I bought it I did a lot of research on RC forums, RC youTube channels, and the LHS before I made my decision on what I wanted to get. Luckily for me, even thought the SC10 4x4 has been discontinued, my LHS is going to continue carrying the parts because a lot of the local racers race that particular truck. I would suggest, like others suggested to me, to always refer to your LHS first if you plan on racing so you can find out what cars and trucks your LHS carries parts for. Otherwise you'll have to wait on stuff from eBay or other internet hobby stores which may take more time. Plus you'd be supporting your LHS by getting parts from them.

WELCH189

Haas anyone who owns a ProSc tried to retro fit SC10 4×4 A ARMS on the rear. When I originally bought the truck I purchased Integy a arms that were for the SC10 not knowing at the time they wouldn't fit. The gap for the hubs is too wide although the chassis side looks like it will work. I purchased them off of eBay and opened them before I realized it and hate to not use them at all. It looks like with the SC10 hinge pins and a couple spacers they will work. I a have the RPM front arms but they don't make any for the rear. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

RustyUs

Yeah, you don't want to use aluminum arms anyway IMO. That just transfers the jolts/stress somewhere else. Having a little flex is desirable. Aluminum steering blocks, caster blocks, and hubs are fine. Unless you are strickly on-road type of RCing... even then, I wouldn't do aluminum arms on any platform.

What's wrong with the stock rear arms? What aren't they doing for ya? Is there an issue that I don't know about, 'cause I was looking for a ProSC 4x4 roller...non to be found for months. I was looking to use one for a rally type car.

DieHarder

The only thing I can think of is like you said, use spacers. Measure the hinge pin diameter and the gap you need to fill, then order some spacers off of eBay. Should work.

The Saylors

+1 for Rusty. Aluminum arms just aren't a good idea. I know its seems like the more solid a part the better but when it comes to taking impact stress flex is the way to go. IMHO I would just sell them on Ebay and get enough money to get some rpm arms, they last a looooonng time lol