basdhondtrc

Hi,
I have a traxxas rustler and it is going very slow. I've upgraded the original xl-5 system to a yellowrc 3250 brushless system. I am wondering what could be wrong with my rc. I have my rustler for 2 years now. As charger I use a Vector AC/DC nx85 fast charger from fusion. I also use the original NiMh battery packs. Also the rc runs fast in the first 10 seconds. After 10 secs it goes slow. When I drive my rc on slow for 5 min and I turn it off and than back on it goes the speed that it is supposed to.
Hopefully somebody can help me.

RustyUs

Welcome to RCU.

I would make sure to start from scratch when upgrading/installing a new ESC/motor combo. Set all your radio trims/settings to the center positions, and reset ESC throttle range calibration with the transmitter.

RustyUs

Instructions should look something like this:

RustyUs

Using them NiMh batteries with your ESC's LVC turned on (for LiPo use) will also give results like you are describing. Turn off the LVC when using NiMh packs. Find a manual for your brand of ESC, as the picture below is only posted to show what the manual, flow of operations, may look like to turn off the LVC on your brand.

basdhondtrc

For what esc is that? Do i need a programming card for this?

RustyUs

Those pictures are from a HobbyWing EZRun ESC manual which should be close to the same type of flow used to change settings on your YellowRC ESC.

basdhondtrc

Cant i just reset the whole esc?

RustyUs

The programming card only makes it easier to see what values are being changed, but is not necessary to change parameters on the ESC. If you don't have the card, you have to use the "set" button to enter programming mode, and listen for beeps/watch LED light when changing parameters for basic items on the ESC.

That YellowRC brand looks like a re-branded HobbyWing type product and is why I posted pictures from that manual.

*updated* I do believe now, after looking at YellowRC manual, a person does need a program card to adjust the items on the ESC...bummer.

basdhondtrc

OK thanks a lot i will try it out right away

RustyUs

Reset All Items To Default Values (this is for HobbyWing EZRun ESCs...check with your manual for similar function)
At any time when the throttle is located in neutral zone (except in the throttle calibration or parameters program process), hold the “SET” key for over 3 seconds, the red LED and green LED will flash at the same time , which means each programmable item has be reset to its default value.

The problem with resetting the ESC to the default values is the Low Voltage Cut-Off will normally be turned on @ 3 volts per cell (LiPo battery pack use), and you will want the Low Voltage Cut-Off turned off when using NiMh battery packs.

basdhondtrc

OK i can only find a red and a orange led

RustyUs

http://www.yellowrc.com/support/manuals/
The LVC is item 1 on your ESC and the manual says to turn off when using NiMh packs.
I don't see anywhere in the YellowRC manual about programming card is "a must" to change parameters.

basdhondtrc

The manual does say :'Programmable items via programming card and default settings'

RustyUs

If you don't feel comfortable trying to get into programming mode using the "set" button method used on HobbyWing EZRun ESCs, you will need the programming card to change the parameters on the YellowRC ESC... as I don't see in-depth instructions on how to change item's values without the programming card.

basdhondtrc

I tried holding the set button but nothing happend :/

RustyUs

Well then...That's what I was afraid of. I guess the purchase of the programming card is in order .
But I am almost certain turning off the Low Voltage Cut-Off will cure your problem.

basdhondtrc

OK thank you very much for helling
I have 2 batteries. One that has 3000mah and one that had 4600mah. When i run the 3000mah battery the rc does not run fast in the beginning.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

In general, I don't think NiMh packs are good to use with brushless systems of any size. When my buddy and I first changed over to brushless, we still had our NiMh packs, so we used them. They didn't last very long. The brushless system tries to pull so much current from the batteries that they get really hot, enough to MELT the plastic shrink wrap on the pack. In all things electronic, heat is bad. Pretty soon, those packs wouldn't hold a charge anymore, they were toast. Lipo is the only way to go.

basdhondtrc

Are lipo's dangerous, expensive? Do i need a special 'lipo charger' ? If so will it me cost a lot of money? Last week i did spend over 250 dollars on a new steering bellcrank, a new radio system and a brushless system. :/

DieHarder

Lipos are not dangerous, I'll just put it that way. They can be dangerous if used in the wrong way, but it's rather hard to use them the wrong way unless you're purposely trying to do so. You need a decent charger that charges lipos. What charger do you have? Lipo will be $100-125 depending on what charger/battery combo you go with.

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

LiPOs are less dangerous than NiMH. I have had a few NiMH and NiCD explosions/shorts. Typically, all chargers today that are not included with the kit are LiPO ready. You can tell us by seeing if there is a set of white plugs on the front or sides. If so, you have a LiPO charger. If not, you need one.

Battery; http://www.atomikrc.com/collections/...-with-uni-plug
Charger; http://www.atomikrc.com/collections/...attery-charger

basdhondtrc

I have this charger http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fusion-v...products/37637

RustyUs

If you are thinking about going with LiPo packs... that charger you linked will not be appropriate for charging them. You would want a charger that is able to measure/balance the individual cells that make up a LiPo pack, as well as a "storage mode function" on a charger for when the batteries will not be used for awhile.

On a very low budget? Try looking for the ever popular iMax B6AC charger. They come in 50 watt and 80 watt "flavors" as well as many re-branded versions (I use two of them, and the links are in US$ ...sorry.) . I don't know what type of battery connector you use, as some chargers come with the old Tamiya "white-ish molex" ones, and should be changed to something that can handle more energy flow like Dean style t-plugs or TRX connectors for an example.

basdhondtrc

What is the difference between the 50 and 80w "flavours"? I use the trx connectors. When i would be ordering this charger should i do some soldering ?

DieHarder

The 80W can handle more such as bigger batteries and faster charging. I'd get the 80W myself. From the looks of the listing, it doesn't look like that charger comes with TRX adapter. So all you'll have to do is either solder a TRX connector to one of the adapters that it comes with or you can buy this adapter to plug into the Tamiya Molex adapter that the charger has. Buying the adapter is easier and will plug right together, but if you can solder it's whichever setup your prefer.

Tamiya to TRX adapter - http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-TRAXXAS-TR...item5899bee506