Carabidae

Hello fellas,
I just bought a few weeks ago the E-Firestorm Flux and the Traxxas Latrax SS
The trucks are totally stock, just got 2 LiPo batteries for the firestorm, Turnigy 2s and 3s 5000Mah, also planning on getting new tires, the stock ones don't seem to hold up well with the brushless+LiPo combination. My driving is a mix of asphalt/dirt, waiting for the camping season and we will be hitting dunes.
The Latrax will be kept as it is, it is my sons, its his starter kit to the hobby.
Regarding the Firestorm any suggestions on parts to consider, maintenance to perform will be appreciated.
Thank you

NachoRTR

Nice pick on the firestorm. That truck is pretty solid to be realistic, the only thing i can think of are the c hubs that can break easily if you have bad luck. The upgrade on the tires is a very good choice.
I recommend:
Pro Line Dirt works http://www.prolineracing.com/pro-lin...n-truck-tires/
or
Pro line gladiators http://www.prolineracing.com/all-ter...d-truck-tires/

Carabidae

Thank you for the reply, actually I was looking at some aluminum parts, but not the C-hubs, are they that fragile?
As for the tires I kept an eye on the Dirt works.. still looking for a place where I can find everything. any suggestions on vendors?

DieHarder

Pro-Line Badlands are my favorite for a 2WD stadium truck. They give awesome ground clearance, grip like you wouldn't believe, and are affordable! They also got nominate basher's choice awards (or something like that) in the RC Car Action magazine. Badlands forever on my Evader!

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Get some aftermarket bumpers from RPM or T-Bone Racing. Stock RTR bumpers are cosmetic mostly, and don't actually protect the car. Before you go replacing C-hubs and steering knuckles, get bumpers first. THEN decide what else needs an upgrade. That's my $.02

Carabidae

Ill give them a try in my next set, I already ordered the Dirt Works.
I took your advice and got the TBR bumpers

Carabidae

The flux comes with additional gears 35/77 for higher speed. The truck becomes crazy on 2S 5A and insane on 3S 5A. The downside, I used at 1st the 2S, it was fun, but I didn't check on the esc/motor heat. it suddenly like of entered into limp mode? the esc/motor/lipo were boiling so left it cool down a bit and then hit the throttle again and it was fine. later that day, I used the 3S and it was insane, uncontrollable, even at 3/4 throttle on a long run and hitting full throttle it wheelies!! I monitored the esc/motor/lipo heat and it was fine for 5 mins then it heated.
by reading many threads, I concluded that decreasing the pinion teeth would help reducing the heating (correct me if im wrong). I tried reinstalling the 19t pinion that came stock on the truck but it wouldn't reach the spur.
Any ideas on the minimum pinion to go with, with the 77t spur?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Argh! I always get a knot it my stomach when I read about the "speed gearing" makers include in their kits. If they're going to do that, they should AT LEAST have big letters saying "We HIGHLY suggest you buy an IR thermometer for monitoring temperatures before installing the speed gearing". As doing so always puts stress on the system, and people tend to run that gearing too long, and end up cooking their motor and/or ESC.

I believe the stock gearing uses the 87T spur. Going to a 77T spur is REALLY gearing UP! Then add a smaller pinion, and you're geared for the moon! No wonder you're hitting thermal limit. Going small on the SPUR is like going LARGE on the pinion. Do both, and you can guarantee overheating. Your stock pinion won't reach the 77T spur, cuz the spur is too small.

Go back to the stock gearing. Run the car on 2S for ten minutes, then measure motor ESC temp. ESC should usually be around 125-130F. Motor ideally should be able to run a whole battery pack and never get over 150F. Letting the motor get over 180F risks magnets loosing strength, and motor, power. And melted winding insulation. Once you know your baseline running temps, you can alter your gearing.

Carabidae

I was fine when using stock gearing 19/87. On both 2S and 3S I could run them the pack, although, with the 3S it would be warmer than the 2S.
I read the calculation somewhere, either in the forums here or some other forum.
My motor is a 4000kv on a 3S lipo which is 11.1V and with the "speed gears" 35/77
4000*11.1 = 44,400 77/35 = 2.2 ratio
44,400 / 2.2 = 20,181 RPM
while the stock set up
87 / 19 = 4.57 ratio
44,400 / 4.57 = 9,715 RPM
the gears made a difference of 10,466 RPM !! it made an increase of a little more than 200%
by calculations if the 22t pinion fit the 77t spur, the gear ratio will be 3.5 and the total RPM will be 12,685 on 3S and 8,457 on 2S
which is somehow acceptable.

DieHarder

Yeah... 35/77 is frickin crazy! That thing must have done like 75mph on 2S and 100+ on 3S. I can't believe something didn't blow. You should run 23/87. I really liked that combo with 2S on a 2.6/1 tranny. You can run a 25T pinion if you stick to the smaller stock tires.

Carabidae

it is a crazy combo indeed.. I guess going back to the 87t spur is the thing to do, nevertheless, I love the crazy uncontrollable beast and its unpredictable wheelies.
i'll be changing the tires ASA they get delivered. pro-line Dirt Works for my daily bashing and Sand Throwers when I hit the dunes. ill try the bigger pinion and see how it goes with the performance and heat.

Carabidae

Ok, so the stock gears for the flux are actually 88/18.. I got my hands on some 83/25. I went to an outdoor parking lot and tried the setup. Its still crazy fast! Wheelies at full throttle. I monitored the motor the whole time and it was warm and not burning hot like the 77/35. Unluckily for me, i was distracted by my son who was chasing his SST around, i didnt notice that the pinion moved from it place and ate the spur till the truck stopped completely and all you could hear was the motors "wing wing". When i opened the cover the pinion was stuck on the shaft without the bolt. I had a hard time removing it. I will go with this setup again and give more feedback.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

D'OH! Did we forgot the Loctite on the pinion grub screw?

Yeah, if you can keep your fingers on the motor for a few seconds without pulling away, going "S*** That's HOT!", you're probably in a good range. Did you destroy the spur gear?

DieHarder

My Velineon runs about 180 at the end bell/150 at the magnet after half an hour of hard running. That's a little high for my comforts, but hey, it keeps going strong and if it does that then I don't have a problem with it.

Carabidae

Am I supposed to use Loctite?
Yeah I did destroy the outer side of the spur's teeth. but I did get a new set this morning.
I drove it today on tarmac with a few long, high speed runs, but still at full throttle it would wheelie. On dirt, which was fun with all the jumps and mishaps. the esc/motor/lipo temp was warm like its supposed to be. I installed the wheelie bar and will give it a try tomorrow. also drove my nitro rs4 3, till I lost control of it and broke one of the rear links. fortunately I have spares.
I don't have anything IR thermometer to monitor the motors heat, but if I can hold it for 10 secs without pulling away then its fine. just in case the motor gives up, castle creations, velineon, tekin motors are available. although i'm loving the MMH-4000kv stock motor.
I was thinking of ordering the 26t pinion, but I think I wont need it, and that setup, 83/25, will be staying there for a long time.
oh, and my rubbers are almost gone, I have the Pro-line dirt works who should be delivered anyday this week with the sand throwers.

DieHarder

I don't use Loctite on my set screws. I think you just need to crank it down a little more, but don't strip the hex.

Get yourself a IR Temp gun. I bought one at Harbor Freight a couple years ago and it's been really great. Nice, accurate, and affordable. If you get a 20% coupon and watch for them to put it on sale in their ads, you can get it for

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Sorry, That's just asking for trouble. Metal IN metal, to metal = Loctite Anything else is just asking for a stripped pinion and spur. Why risk it?

DieHarder

I never really thought of that... I tighten the set screw on my pinion with a 1/16" driver until the driver itself twists a little and the set screw doesn't go any further with stead pressure. This way the set screw doesn't strip and gets nice and tight. Haven't had any trouble lately, in fact, I think the last time I had a pinion come loose was three years ago or so... But I'm stubborn, maybe when not using Loctite bites me in the ass I'll become one of their customers.

Carabidae

Since I will keep that set up 83/25, I guess ill use Loctite.
Tried both the 2S and 3S. The 2S is fun driving, can get wheelies from start and can go full throttle without any problems. on 3S, wheelies all time, fun to drive on dirt and sand, but tarmac not that much. Does the batteries mAH affect performance or is it related to running time? both my batteries are 5.0 mAH.
Rear tires are almost gone, I hope my delivery gets here soon. Also suspension needs to be changed ASAP, my rears wont hold up unless I tighten them to the end. keeping my eyes on the Pro-line powerstroke shocks.

DieHarder

mAh is mostly about run time. 5000mAh (5.0Ah) is plenty of run time for me.

Carabidae

The first part of my orders was delivered today..

Well its not the perfect trimming, but it does the work.
done with this step, now I need to get some paint and begin spraying.

Carabidae

Done with painting


still missing the final touch, stickers!

Carabidae

Finished the body. I feel somehow proud of myself

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Huh! A Hummer stadium truck body! There's something you don't see every day.

(Bro, you should quit smoking.)

Carabidae

Yes your right, you don't see that body everyday. But I'm proud about the time, effort and how it turned out, knowing that I didn't touch a RC in the last 7 yrs
Come on man, don't be like my wife, I know its a bad habit.. but not quitting anytime soon