Ten Scale 4wd Buggy Motor & ESC Recommendation
10-31-2015, 12:27 PM
#1
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Ten Scale 4wd Buggy Motor & ESC Recommendation
Any body racing 1/10 4wd buggy that can recommend a good sensorless motor esc setup? I was thinking about putting a castle sidewinder 4600kv on the B44.3. Would that work or is there something better?
11-02-2015, 07:08 AM
#2
Are you planning to race at a local track? If so, I would first check to see what their rules and recommendations are. Otherwise, yeah, the Sidewinder would work. Hmmm, just thought tho....I think Castle recommends the SW only for cars UNDER 4.5lbs. That might be a tad shy of your buggy's weight. And the SW is only rated to 3S lipo. You might want to look at a different system, after you talk with the guys at the track.
11-02-2015, 08:35 AM
#3
If racing is not in the game plan for the B44.3, then yes, the Castle 4600kv would be a good choice. Maybe pull up some driver's set-up sheets and have a look at what's being used. I've never had any troubles with using Castle's stuff on a race track, then again it was a 2wd buggy and I never used a Sidewinder either 
. But, if you have any inklings to put your Associated beauty on a competitive race track, I would look into a sensored system solely for the throttle control that everyone talks about, and 'cause of the rules. 2 pole/4pole & sensored/sensorless requirements...I don't keep track of the racing rules anymore, and I don't want to give out any false info either.
I'm a little envious of your B44.3 you got there. Makes me think I gotta get one if my new toy doesn't pan out so well.
. But, if you have any inklings to put your Associated beauty on a competitive race track, I would look into a sensored system solely for the throttle control that everyone talks about, and 'cause of the rules. 2 pole/4pole & sensored/sensorless requirements...I don't keep track of the racing rules anymore, and I don't want to give out any false info either. I'm a little envious of your B44.3 you got there. Makes me think I gotta get one if my new toy doesn't pan out so well.
Last edited by RustyUs; 11-08-2015 at 07:49 AM. Reason: wording
11-07-2015, 09:48 AM
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Thanks RustyUs, I'll let you know how it does after driving it some. I'll install that castle soon, I went with the 4600kv for a little more torque on that 4wd. Thanks again for the opinion on a setup like that.
11-12-2015, 11:44 PM
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Build Update. Its complete with electronics but she fought me here and there. One of the pins in the spider gear was solid ( no notch cut out), associated did send me a replacement pack of diff rebuild kit to replace it. The screws that hold the top plates to the aluminum middle diff bracket SHOULD NOT HAVE LOCKTITE ON THEM like the instructions said. 
That's the biggest mistake I made the whole build. They are stuck in there. I broke a $40 titanium Dynamite wrench trying to get it out and the head striped. 2 of the 4 are stuck and will need to be cut out or something. Ideas? Also the body looks cool but it sucks. NO room for electronics or wires. Had to mod the body until it can be replaced with a more roomy one lol. 
It was too much pressure on the wires and leads. Other then that the buggy looks boss. It feels excellent with the two passes I made in the street, on a rail. The castle 4600kv motor 19/81 gearing feels real good. Not drivetrain shredding overkill but wicked fast on a 2 cell lipo and will be plenty to clear everything on the track.
. A little mess to clean up for now but cant wait to take to the track.
11-13-2015, 10:23 PM
#6
That sucks about the screws. Well cutting a notch in the head of the screw is out as most methods will also cut into the carbon fiber upper chassis brace. you can drill the head of the screw off but you won't be left with much to get a grip on.
My recomendation would be to try and loosen the locktite with heat. I usually use a lighter but fire is a no go with the carbon and anodizing. Instead try a soldering iron on the screw head. Maybe a heat gun on the aluminum part, just watch the carbon!
My recomendation would be to try and loosen the locktite with heat. I usually use a lighter but fire is a no go with the carbon and anodizing. Instead try a soldering iron on the screw head. Maybe a heat gun on the aluminum part, just watch the carbon!
11-14-2015, 10:23 AM
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The soldering wand on the screw is a good idea to loosen up the locktite. I cut slits in the heads (didn't damage the carbon), applied heat and with lots of preasure on a flathead slowly backed the screws out. They were finally replace and my mess is cleaned up. After setting up the esc and covering the carbon shock tower with lexan she took her maiden voyage in a smooth parking lot. Yeah new tires and all lol. It was for initial setup purposes,,, very important. The buggy feels Gnar Bar!
