Castle Is Retarted
#1
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Castle Screwed Me
The supplied motor mount screws are too small and too short. Stripped out first run, way to go castle you managed to break your own equipment immediatly after i paid for it lol. I guess I should buy another one.
Last edited by BlueBorderRC; 05-17-2016 at 08:26 AM.
#2
Wait, wait, wait. You would think they would have some sort of statement in the users guide warning of this problem. I don't want to sound like a jerk, but if I use the supplied 32 pitch 16T pinion gear that came with my Neu-Castle 15 series motors on my 1/8 scale buggy that uses Mod 1 pitch spurs, and ruined my spur gear...it's Castle's fault?
What is really idiotic is when half of my LiPo packs have the positive and negative lead inputs reversed from what I was used to. Not fun having my ESC smell like a burnt pack of matches .
What is really idiotic is when half of my LiPo packs have the positive and negative lead inputs reversed from what I was used to. Not fun having my ESC smell like a burnt pack of matches .
Last edited by RustyUs; 05-15-2016 at 11:44 AM.
#3
Wait, wait, wait. You would think they would have some sort of statement in the users guide warning of this problem. I don't want to sound like a jerk, but if I use the supplied 32 pitch 16T pinion gear that came with my Neu-Castle 15 series motors on my 1/8 scale buggy that uses Mod 1 pitch spurs, and ruined my spur gear...it's Castle's fault?
What is really idiotic is when half of my LiPo packs have the positive and negative lead inputs reversed from what I was used to. Not fun having my ESC smell like a burnt pack of matches .
What is really idiotic is when half of my LiPo packs have the positive and negative lead inputs reversed from what I was used to. Not fun having my ESC smell like a burnt pack of matches .
In this case I agree its quite poor to supply screws to mount a motor in the wrong size.
But eh what do you expect from a company that makes you buy a capacitor bank which should be included with the ESC optional so it don't blow out, and blame battery ripple voltages instead.
If you didn't notice I'm no castle fan
But I will say the NEIU Motor I got from them is quite well made (the ESC is kinda meh IMO).
#4
My Feedback: (5)
Hard to believe the included bolts were both the wrong size and length but things do happen.
Easy to believe that someone would try and install bolts that are both the wrong size and length without questioning it and then try and run it that way.
Next time get things sorted out before you start and make sure you have the proper fasteners in the proper places.
Easy to believe that someone would try and install bolts that are both the wrong size and length without questioning it and then try and run it that way.
Next time get things sorted out before you start and make sure you have the proper fasteners in the proper places.
#5
Senior Member
My Feedback: (11)
I find it hard to believe they'd include screws that were the wrong diameter, but anything is possible. Maybe the esc mounts with smaller diameter screws or you used screws from the 8ight-t kit instead of the 3mm diameter motor mount screws? The screws not being long enough for your particular application I can believe, afterall motor mount thickness varies and 1/8 buggy/truggy mounts are typically thicker than Maxx/Revo and some other monster trucks. That's why I always put a screw through the mount to see how much sticks out the other side and I also thread a screw into the motor by hand to see how deep they can go. Castle motors have a plastic piece inside so a screw won't contact the windings but not all motors have that so be careful. Either way compare how far they go into the motor and the mount and use as long of a screw as you can. You can't expect a company to include screws that are going to be the right length for every application.
I hesitate to tell you to contact Castle customer service but I've had good luck with them the 2 times I've had to use it. Maybe they'll send you a new endbell for free or cheap. Another option is to simply use the other set of mounting holes. If the wires end up in a bad position simply remove the screws holding the endbell onto the can and rotate the endbell 90 degrees. Now the set of holes that weren't stripped are where the stripped ones used to be in relation to the wires. I recommend bolting the motor mount to endbell and using that to turn it. The endbell may have some glue on it as well that'll need to break free so don't be surprised if it's hard to turn at first.
I hesitate to tell you to contact Castle customer service but I've had good luck with them the 2 times I've had to use it. Maybe they'll send you a new endbell for free or cheap. Another option is to simply use the other set of mounting holes. If the wires end up in a bad position simply remove the screws holding the endbell onto the can and rotate the endbell 90 degrees. Now the set of holes that weren't stripped are where the stripped ones used to be in relation to the wires. I recommend bolting the motor mount to endbell and using that to turn it. The endbell may have some glue on it as well that'll need to break free so don't be surprised if it's hard to turn at first.
Last edited by Maj_Overdrive; 05-15-2016 at 02:31 PM.
#6
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My Feedback: (11)
Because it's always somebody else's fault, not theirs.
#10
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Hard to believe the included bolts were both the wrong size and length but things do happen.
Easy to believe that someone would try and install bolts that are both the wrong size and length without questioning it and then try and run it that way.
Next time get things sorted out before you start and make sure you have the proper fasteners in the proper places.
Easy to believe that someone would try and install bolts that are both the wrong size and length without questioning it and then try and run it that way.
Next time get things sorted out before you start and make sure you have the proper fasteners in the proper places.
#11
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Wait, wait, wait. You would think they would have some sort of statement in the users guide warning of this problem. I don't want to sound like a jerk, but if I use the supplied 32 pitch 16T pinion gear that came with my Neu-Castle 15 series motors on my 1/8 scale buggy that uses Mod 1 pitch spurs, and ruined my spur gear...it's Castle's fault?
What is really idiotic is when half of my LiPo packs have the positive and negative lead inputs reversed from what I was used to. Not fun having my ESC smell like a burnt pack of matches .
What is really idiotic is when half of my LiPo packs have the positive and negative lead inputs reversed from what I was used to. Not fun having my ESC smell like a burnt pack of matches .
#12
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#14
Forget whether the screws were correct or not for a second, we only have Blue's word that he used the included screws (and assuming only one size was included) and that variable is mute for this DISCUSSION. In general, does the end user bear any responsibility for making sure they assemble the product correctly? Should the end user be responsible for making sure the hardware threads correctly and far enough for the application during assembly? How is the screw example any less relevant than the pinion example? If anything less people in this world have experience with gear mesh than installing screws.
But I will say when I used to buy quite a few things that had to be assembled there were multiple times I bought items that had incorrect screws included.
Hell I remember the one airplane kit I bought (ok it was from HobbyKing) that they sent me a pile of wrong airplane parts in the box. It had the right instructions for what I ordered, but like 30%-40% of the parts I got were not in the instructions.
I've also bought aftermarket parts like a steering upgrade for one of my RC's from a company that had the wrong sized screws in the package(I think it was STRC that time).
Last edited by SyCo_VeNoM; 05-16-2016 at 04:31 PM.
#15
Senior Member
My Feedback: (11)
True we do only have his word.
But I will say when I used to buy quite a few things that had to be assembled there were multiple times I bought items that had incorrect screws included.
Hell I remember the one airplane kit I bought (ok it was from HobbyKing) that they sent me a pile of wrong airplane parts in the box. It had the right instructions for what I ordered, but like 30%-40% of the parts I got were not in the instructions.
I've also bought aftermarket parts like a steering upgrade for one of my RC's from a company that had the wrong sized screws in the package(I think it was STRC that time).
But I will say when I used to buy quite a few things that had to be assembled there were multiple times I bought items that had incorrect screws included.
Hell I remember the one airplane kit I bought (ok it was from HobbyKing) that they sent me a pile of wrong airplane parts in the box. It had the right instructions for what I ordered, but like 30%-40% of the parts I got were not in the instructions.
I've also bought aftermarket parts like a steering upgrade for one of my RC's from a company that had the wrong sized screws in the package(I think it was STRC that time).
Btw I was trying to separate Blue from that question hence the 2nd post and saying all variables related to him and the source of the screws are mute for the purpose of discussing the question of end user responsibility. I didn't want anyone (mainly blue) thinking I was saying or implying that he's lying or is some adjective that means mentally deficient. Afterall mistakes happen to the best of us.
#16
We have all tried to put the wrong screw in the wrong hole at some stage .
I have purchased 2 new motors in the last 6 months and both ( different brands ) stated the bolt type to be used and the bolt hole depth .
I know it can be boring but it is always good to read the manual/specs before fitting a new part .
Maj_Overdrive gave some good advice on choosing the right bolt length , I also like as much bolt in the hole as possible .
Anyone got any other tips to stop this happening again ???
I have purchased 2 new motors in the last 6 months and both ( different brands ) stated the bolt type to be used and the bolt hole depth .
I know it can be boring but it is always good to read the manual/specs before fitting a new part .
Maj_Overdrive gave some good advice on choosing the right bolt length , I also like as much bolt in the hole as possible .
Anyone got any other tips to stop this happening again ???
#17
Senior Member
My Feedback: (11)
@seedygreenute, thanks for the kind words. The general rule with bolts is that you want the bolt to engage enough threads to be equal or greater to the bolts diameter. So for a 3mm bolt you want to engage at least 3mm of threads. If you have a look at nuts you'll see the commonly available ones follow this rule unless space is at a premium for whatever reason or the material you're threading into is really soft like plastic then you want a longer bolt with more threads engaged.
With a typical 3mm motor screw/bolt you want that 3mm minimum plus a little extra. Threads don't exactly start at the top, plus they're going into aluminum. So let's add 2mm for where the threads start and another 2-3mm for the fact we want a few extra threads for going into aluminum and we can round up to an even 10mm needed sticking out the motor mount to thread into the motor endbell. This will engage enough threads and shouldn't be so long that the screw will contact the windings on motors that don't have protection from that happening.
With a typical 3mm motor screw/bolt you want that 3mm minimum plus a little extra. Threads don't exactly start at the top, plus they're going into aluminum. So let's add 2mm for where the threads start and another 2-3mm for the fact we want a few extra threads for going into aluminum and we can round up to an even 10mm needed sticking out the motor mount to thread into the motor endbell. This will engage enough threads and shouldn't be so long that the screw will contact the windings on motors that don't have protection from that happening.
#19
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Castles Response
Castle's customer service might be pretty good, they called me back about this issue the first business day. The guy asked what kit I was putting it on (probably so he could ID the motor mount) and agreed with me that the plate in that Losi kit is thick and the screws don't have the length to bite. The guy says they are talking about doing 2 size of threaded holes on the plate for that option in the near future. I told him I just got longer screws and rotated the plate to use the fresh threads, its no problem.
#23
Its handy capped now days...or handy capable i guess even though it makes no sense. Political correctness is tiring. If you wanna really feel offended go play any multi player game online, The 9 year old that keeps kicking my a** is pretty inventive lol
#24
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Not sure is some missed it, but the comments about "retarted": are because the correct spelling is "retarded". It's like the difference between a moron and a moran.... If you are afflicted with the condition, you likely can't spell the affliction you have.
Also, handicapped is out too....proper etiquette is usually "mentally challenged", or "differently abled". Maybe I am old school, but to me, retarded, mentally challenged, etc, are all the same thing. I would say it is rude to call someone out with those terms, regardless of the term. We all the right to be rude, and also have the right to be thoughtless. At any rate, everyone have a nice day (more cliches)
Also, handicapped is out too....proper etiquette is usually "mentally challenged", or "differently abled". Maybe I am old school, but to me, retarded, mentally challenged, etc, are all the same thing. I would say it is rude to call someone out with those terms, regardless of the term. We all the right to be rude, and also have the right to be thoughtless. At any rate, everyone have a nice day (more cliches)
Last edited by Chumley54; 05-21-2016 at 04:37 PM.