Talky McNeighborson

Hey guys, After yanking my hair out for months trying to figure out where the grinding was coming from on my Team Associated Rival, I finally did the unthinkable that no man ever wants to admit to doing......I called tech support at AE.

Long story short, it turned out to be a bad motor. SO; I'm looking to get a new replacement motor that will work with the factory ESC. I'm fairly new to electric vehicles, my question is what do I need to look for when it comes to making sure the motor will be compatible?

The Saylors

Hmm looks like it takes 4mm connections and is paired to a 2000kv stock motor with a 2700kv limit on the esc. Is there a reason that you dont like the stock motor aside from it being broken? Looks like you can get one pretty cheap ($50). If its just powerless then i would think a castle, hobby wing or really anything else will work as long as its same pole amount and doesn't go higher than 2700kv, other than that i cant think of anything else huge off the top of my head but i'm sure someone else will. You can go with a motor with a different size connection if you want to learn how to solder. The options more depend on your needs as a driver, that esc from what i see will be open to a lot of options.



http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/products...WdNhoCIy7w_wcB

Talky McNeighborson

I'm just looking for a little more power, the way I see it why not upgrade if I have to replace it anyway?. I'm looking at a Turnigy 2200kv that's 4 pole and up to 6s compatible (I'm running 4S lipo). The stock motor was fine other than the fact that it self destructed . I have the ability to solder no problem, I'd just prefer plug & play if possible.

So I should be good to go as long as it's a 4 pole and doesn't exceed that kV rating?

Thanks

The Saylors

From my level of understanding yes but give it a day or two to give people a chance to respond as i am far from all knowing. I'm sure one of these guys has used that esc before and will have first hand knowledge on it. To me that esc kinda looks like a rebranded hobby wing but i could certainly be wrong. Most of my knowledge is traxxas and castle hardware. As a side thought what price range are you looking in? Also is there a limit to how long of a motor you can make fit? This info will help point you to something that will keep you happy. The motor i just got is the neu castle 2650kv but i haven't gotten to run it yet. It is one of those motors that everyone seems to be in love with once they get over the price.

The Saylors

Your not looking at the outrunner motor are you? That's a heli motor. I can't find a 2200kv ground based one from them. I could just not be looking hard enough lol

Talky McNeighborson

Thanks a lot man. It could be a hobbywing, I have no doubt it's probably rebranded. I'm trying to go budget on this one, like I said the Turnigy is only like 55 bux, and they have very good reviews. As far as motor length, I don't think im going to have much of a problem in that department. if you look at the pic, you see that I've got a lot of freedom as far as motor length, or so I would think. I'm not past spending a little extra, to the tune of $70-80

The Saylors

It does look like you can handle just about any motor length. At 50 bucks even if it only lasts a season you would be in decent shape so it could be worth a try. Make sure that you look at the same product on multiple sites when using reviews. I have seen a couple of sites do some shady things with those so i usually look in three or more places and see if there is consistency. Also look to see if they allow updates on their reviews since they may be happy out of the box but then it breaks and they arent allowed to change the review making it deceiving.

Talky McNeighborson

Yeah, you're right on the shady reviews thing, I always keep that in mind and do my homework on something before I buy it hahaha. Thanks again for the help, brother

The Saylors

Oh ya any time! I'm an over researcher too so i totally get it. As a note the guys on here are very nice so if you ever run into a problem with any r.c. anything in the future someone will be able to help for sure. Let us know how that motor works out for you in the long run as well. First hand experience is very valuable in this hobby!

RCaddict80

I use 4 pole castle motors in all my 1/10th scale rc trucks.in my 1/18th,1/24/and 1/36 scale i just use 2 pole brushless. However if you get a 4 pole castle motor and a controler that can handle it....like the mamba max or sidewinder 3(assuming your truck is under 5 pounds max for sidewinder3) you will not be sorry at all!!!! I have ran 2 pole motors in my 1/10 scales and after running 4 pole ill never go back!!! They are so unpredictable as far as the gearing and power.take everything you thought you knew about how gearing works in a dc motor and start out fresh because the 4 pole motors will absoulutly blow your mind and have you scratching your head when you go doen 10 teeth on spur gear and up 10 teeth on pinion and now your truck is pulling more wheelies, has twice the torque and twice the top end speed!!!!it will have you wondering...how does that happen with taller gears???!!!! The answer is simple...its called the torque of a 4 pole motor

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

The stock Rival motor and esc are both rebranded Hobbying stuff. Personally I feel motors are one of those things that are definitely worth spending more on. If it was me I'd get a stock motor from Dollarhobby before I got the Turnigy. The Turnigy is probably fine in a buggy or truggy but in a heavier monster truck it'll probably get hit with the stock gearing.

Have be you taken the old motor apart? I'm curious as to what's grinding and whether it's just bearings are not. The only other real possibility is the Kevlar wrap that holds the magnets on the rotor let go and is contacting the stator in which case it's basically toast. But bearings you may be able to replace.

Btw the stock Rival esc can handle just about any motor that's 4074 in size or smaller. Larger motors like a 4092 might draw too many amps for it though.

@RcAddict, the last thing you'd want in a 1/8 monster truck is a Sidewinder 3 which is an entry level 1/10 esc and really not even recommended for 4wd vehicles unless they're really light. The Sidewinder8 is actually about equal in amp rating to the stock Rival esc but it's 6s capable. I'd also avoid the MMP in a 1/8 monster truck, the bec isn't strong enough to turn big tires like that. In the Castle lineup I'd stick with Sidewinder8 or one of the Mamaba Monsters.

Talky McNeighborson

Thanks Overdrive, thats exactly what has been my biggest concern; what motor will be able to handle the weight and gearing of a 1/8 monster truck. The thing is big AND heavy. As for the old motor, Ive taken it apart the most I could, I can actually hear what sounds like sand or small chunks of debris shaking around inside of the motor when I hold it to my ear and do a shake test

The Saylors

Ya i don't like those sidewinder systems either. A lot of people think they are capable of more weight then they are and have a fire over it. I thought those looked like hobby wings lol thanks for the confirmation Maj OD. Usually with motors and esc's i will go overkill and tune them down that way i never have heat issues and things like that.

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

My philosophy exactly, overpowered with no heat issues. I don't detune though, see my signature!

The Saylors

I started off not de-tuning but after 3 sets of axles and a bazillion tire and rim sets i decided to alter my ways just a smidge lol. My new transmitter is much more sensitive and controllable so i may go back and change that habit to see if i can keep the truck together nowadays. Even though i build to have no heat issues i still carry a thermal gun especially on a fresh build just to be safe, my cousin thought i was being crazy but now he uses it more than me lol.