Drivetrain Upgrades
06-03-2016, 03:18 PM
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Drivetrain Upgrades
What are the basic drivetrain upgrades to run 3S on Traxxas Slash and Stampede 4X4's?, I don't need bling, just want them to stay together and handle the power.
06-03-2016, 06:49 PM
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Drive shafts, and I vote for 32P gearing, but some will disagree...
If you're feeling rich - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...8uEaApG38P8HAQ
Otherwise, why not try it and see what breaks? I think stock, she can handle a little more than you'd think.
If you're feeling rich - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...8uEaApG38P8HAQ
Otherwise, why not try it and see what breaks? I think stock, she can handle a little more than you'd think.
06-04-2016, 08:08 AM
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Thanks. I figured if I use good throttle management the stock set-up should be fine on 3S, I just like to build the stuff bullet proof. What about driveshaft and diff's?
06-04-2016, 09:10 AM
#4
The pinion/spur pitch is 32p or mod.8 pitch. Mod.8 is actually 31.75p so close enough, take your pick.
The stock center shaft will be fine on 3s. The driveshafts/axles going to the wheels are the ones that'll let go eventually. The holes in them for the steel universal balls turn oval over time and if you have sticky tires on pavement the shafts will twist eventually breaking. Get a set of MIP or Tekno cvd's or XO1 shafts and you won't have to worry about that anymore.
In my opinion the diffs themselves don't require anything for 3s unless you're going to run a big motor and/or big tires. Even then I'd wait to see if anything breaks before buying upgrades. The diffs are basically the same as the Maxx/Revo units with a few small changes so they're pretty tough in these lighter vehicles. The ring gear is the same on the Slash 4x4, XO1 and the Maxx/Revo, the pinion gear is specific to the Slash and stampede 4x4 and XO1 due to the center shaft. The XO1 and brushless Maxx/Revo use a diff cup that has metal inserts plus an "I beam" that fits between the spider gears. These pieces are the only upgrade to the diffs and make the diff cup a bit stronger to help the spider gears survive better with higher loads on the drivetrain. The Slash 4x4 uses the same diff cup as the nitro monster trucks without those extra pieces inside the diff cup. Btw the other difference between the Slash/Stampede/XO1 diff and the Maxx/Revo is the outputs the axles/cvd's attach to. The Slash/XO1 doesn't have room for the larger diameter Maxx/Revo axles so it uses smaller diameter axles. This requires the diff output to be a smaller diameter where the axles attach, the rest of the outputs are the same diameter as the MaxxRevo outputs.
If you want make them the best they can be make sure the gear mesh is good between the ring and pinion. You usually can't get any shims on the sides of the diff leaving you only able to shim the pinion to adjust mesh. Not sure what size shims will fit, my Rally has good mesh so never messed with it.
The stock center shaft will be fine on 3s. The driveshafts/axles going to the wheels are the ones that'll let go eventually. The holes in them for the steel universal balls turn oval over time and if you have sticky tires on pavement the shafts will twist eventually breaking. Get a set of MIP or Tekno cvd's or XO1 shafts and you won't have to worry about that anymore.
In my opinion the diffs themselves don't require anything for 3s unless you're going to run a big motor and/or big tires. Even then I'd wait to see if anything breaks before buying upgrades. The diffs are basically the same as the Maxx/Revo units with a few small changes so they're pretty tough in these lighter vehicles. The ring gear is the same on the Slash 4x4, XO1 and the Maxx/Revo, the pinion gear is specific to the Slash and stampede 4x4 and XO1 due to the center shaft. The XO1 and brushless Maxx/Revo use a diff cup that has metal inserts plus an "I beam" that fits between the spider gears. These pieces are the only upgrade to the diffs and make the diff cup a bit stronger to help the spider gears survive better with higher loads on the drivetrain. The Slash 4x4 uses the same diff cup as the nitro monster trucks without those extra pieces inside the diff cup. Btw the other difference between the Slash/Stampede/XO1 diff and the Maxx/Revo is the outputs the axles/cvd's attach to. The Slash/XO1 doesn't have room for the larger diameter Maxx/Revo axles so it uses smaller diameter axles. This requires the diff output to be a smaller diameter where the axles attach, the rest of the outputs are the same diameter as the MaxxRevo outputs.
If you want make them the best they can be make sure the gear mesh is good between the ring and pinion. You usually can't get any shims on the sides of the diff leaving you only able to shim the pinion to adjust mesh. Not sure what size shims will fit, my Rally has good mesh so never messed with it.
Last edited by Maj_Overdrive; 06-04-2016 at 09:12 AM.
06-04-2016, 01:25 PM
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Thanks,
My slash 4x4 is surviving pretty well, on 2 s I don't see any wear on the drive shaft joint holes. The 4x4 stampede seems to be eating them, even with 50C 2 cells the rear axles don't live long, I think the wheeling puts a lot of stress back there. The stress is going to go someplace, and the weak lets loose, in the stampede's case the rear axles.
My slash 4x4 is surviving pretty well, on 2 s I don't see any wear on the drive shaft joint holes. The 4x4 stampede seems to be eating them, even with 50C 2 cells the rear axles don't live long, I think the wheeling puts a lot of stress back there. The stress is going to go someplace, and the weak lets loose, in the stampede's case the rear axles.
