HELP !! Tamiya Sandviper. 4000MaH LiPo and charger.
#1
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HELP !! Tamiya Sandviper. 4000MaH LiPo and charger.
UPDATE:
Overlander Lipo Battery 2200mAh 3S 11.1v 30C Supersport Deans Plug Li-Po 2567
ive just purchased this battery, now i guess i just need to know which charger to buy for it
(and possible cable connector adapters).
So i guess the question now is, will any LiPo charger be sufficient?
Thanks
Overlander Lipo Battery 2200mAh 3S 11.1v 30C Supersport Deans Plug Li-Po 2567
ive just purchased this battery, now i guess i just need to know which charger to buy for it
(and possible cable connector adapters).
So i guess the question now is, will any LiPo charger be sufficient?
Thanks
Last edited by kreelius; 12-14-2016 at 02:19 PM. Reason: UPDATE
#2
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Pretty much, yes. You don't need to spend a lot either. Look up the Thunder 680 charger. $50. Will charge at up to six amps, 80W. But um.....you're planning to put a 3S Lipo in a Sand Viper? First off, I don't think it'll fit...Tamiyas usually run six cell Nimhs. Small battery compartment. More importantly, the drive train won't be able to take that much power. If the electronics don't fry, you'll probably melt the plastic gears. Or twist an axle. You might want to rethink this.
Connectors? On Lipo batteries, ANYTHING but Tamiya connectors! They suck. Barely ok for Nimhs. Traxxas, Deans, bullets, AC3, can all handle the high current Lipos put out. Those crappy Molex connectors will melt.
Connectors? On Lipo batteries, ANYTHING but Tamiya connectors! They suck. Barely ok for Nimhs. Traxxas, Deans, bullets, AC3, can all handle the high current Lipos put out. Those crappy Molex connectors will melt.
Last edited by EXT2Rob; 12-15-2016 at 07:47 AM.
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Pretty much, yes. You don't need to spend a lot either. Look up the Thunder 680 charger. $50. Will charge at up to six amps, 80W. But um.....you're planning to put a 3S Lipo in a Sand Viper? First off, I don't think it'll fit...Tamiyas usually run six cell Nimhs. Small battery compartment. More importantly, the drive train won't be able to take that much power. If the electronics don't fry, you'll probably melt the plastic gears. Or twist an axle. You might want to rethink this.
Connectors? On Lipo batteries, ANYTHING but Tamiya connectors! They suck. Barely ok for Nimhs. Traxxas, Deans, bullets, AC3, can all handle the high current Lipos put out. Those crappy Molex connectors will melt.
Connectors? On Lipo batteries, ANYTHING but Tamiya connectors! They suck. Barely ok for Nimhs. Traxxas, Deans, bullets, AC3, can all handle the high current Lipos put out. Those crappy Molex connectors will melt.
Hey thanks for your swift reply. Ok, i was kind of waiting for this to get messy haha. So im basically putting an RS turbo into a standard Escort without modifying the other essential parts of the car. I can understand that will cause problems.
So, lets say firstly (if the battery fits), can i buy a steel motor sprocket to engage the gear box (drive train) and overcome that problem, or is the issue that the actual innards of the gearbox, being made of plastic wont take the revs and resulting friction. You mention the electronics may fry. Are we talking the ESC and the motor (type 540) will fry? Also you suggest i may be twisting axels. Can i put more robust axels in the car? I know that a new motor sprocket isnt very expensive, i assume the axels wont be too. But indeed the electronics frying is gonna mean a new car i guess.
So i guess the next question is, what motor or electronics would i need to run a 3s Lipo. I understand there is an element of tuning i can do manually to the car in order to "gear it down" and perhaps lower the risk of causing damage ? I know im leaving this very late, and as i said my entire knowledge of the subject is only 5 days old max, but i learn quick. If you can give me a few options to resolve this, i would appreciate your time youve taken to help me 100%. Im determined to make this car great for her, and get her bugged into the sport, and out the house away from that bloody internet and xbox live
Again many thanks, and i look forward to some swift replys.
Mike.
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Oh, and connectors. So ill need to by some deans, and fit them to the existing wires on the car, and to the lipo in needed. Im a dab hand with a soldering iron, that wont be an issue. I think the connectors are pretty low cost, that i can do. Given its a sand viper, im pretty sure i can guarantee that there gonna be Tamiya.....
#5
My Feedback: (1)
Are we talkin' about a vintage Tamiya here, or a re-release? If the latter, it might have a metal gearbox already. If it's a Tamiya sped control, you can look up the specs, but I doubt (an I could be wrong) it can handle 11 Volts, even if you could shoehorn that 3S in there somehow. I mean, you're talking about a complete mis-match here, really. Gotta decide "Do I wanna run this car? Or do I wanna run this battery?" You ain't gonna be able to do both, I'm afraid.
Nevermind the fact that even if you could, it would probably be undriveable at 11V. You'd have a helluva time keeping it from flipping on it's lid the instant you hit the trigger. Like I said, those things are designed to run on a six cell nimh pack. There are precious few that can even fit a 2S lipo. 3S is outta the question unless you do some cut-n-hack. The car is just too small for it.
You need something like a 1/10 scale stadium truck or short course truck. Then 3S makes sense, and is driveable, mostly. Most use 2S lipo.
Nevermind the fact that even if you could, it would probably be undriveable at 11V. You'd have a helluva time keeping it from flipping on it's lid the instant you hit the trigger. Like I said, those things are designed to run on a six cell nimh pack. There are precious few that can even fit a 2S lipo. 3S is outta the question unless you do some cut-n-hack. The car is just too small for it.
You need something like a 1/10 scale stadium truck or short course truck. Then 3S makes sense, and is driveable, mostly. Most use 2S lipo.
#6
More than likely the battery compartment area will need modified to fit a 3S? Even a softcased LiPo will probably test the stock battery bar; getting it secured may prove to be stressful on the hinges. Anyway, can always take the bar off and use Velcro straps. I'm with EXT2Rob. That much voltage in a lightweight buggy....oooohwee! I'm trying to understand the ultimate goal here. Might want to check specs on Sand Viper's ESC...7.2v and no LVC for keeping LiPo batteries from discharging too far? Plenty of "umph" can be had from a 2S LiPo pack, and the right motor.
Last edited by RustyUs; 12-15-2016 at 04:54 PM.
#8
Yes. Whether it's a 1800, 3000, 3600, or 4200mAh 6 cell stick pack, they all should fit in battery compartment perfectly. Most NiMh packs configured like the one you have pointed out, in above post, are around 135mm long. Just pick the capacity which you think will fit your needs.
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Hallo folks.
So heres a quick update. I recieved the Overlander Lipo Battery 2200mAh 3S 11.1v 30C Supersport Deans Plug Li-Po 2567 and balance charger. I checked to see if it fits the battery compartment, and i actually had room to spare, so padded it out underneath with a couple of packing polyester curls. Snug as a bug. I checked to see if the ESC could first handle the extra voltage, and apparently it has a cut out mechanism that prevents the motor getting too hot, and a BEC? After soldering the Deans plugs onto the car as suggested, i fitted the battery and gave it a whirl.
I have ti say, it is quite astonishing, this buggy is FAST, so the earlier statement of "do i want to run the battery or the car", i guess i want to run this battery Im aware that a brushed motor isnt going to last very long under this kind of load, but im already prepared to replace this with a brushless and if needed a new gear box. I first turned the car on its back to test it, and the wheels run like a power drill....literally.
Oh, and amazingly the car stays grounded, and dosnt flip onto its back when i gave it a quick tour on the tarmac outside. So i would like to thank everybody thats contributed to my endeavor, i couldnt have navigated my way through this with out you guys. I will upload a link to a video of the buggy after Christmas and show you guys how it runs at the moment.
In the meantime, could anybody suggest what motor to fit when this one eventually gives up the ghost? The buggy is a 1/10 scale Tamiya Sand Viper.
Thanks again
Mike
So heres a quick update. I recieved the Overlander Lipo Battery 2200mAh 3S 11.1v 30C Supersport Deans Plug Li-Po 2567 and balance charger. I checked to see if it fits the battery compartment, and i actually had room to spare, so padded it out underneath with a couple of packing polyester curls. Snug as a bug. I checked to see if the ESC could first handle the extra voltage, and apparently it has a cut out mechanism that prevents the motor getting too hot, and a BEC? After soldering the Deans plugs onto the car as suggested, i fitted the battery and gave it a whirl.
I have ti say, it is quite astonishing, this buggy is FAST, so the earlier statement of "do i want to run the battery or the car", i guess i want to run this battery Im aware that a brushed motor isnt going to last very long under this kind of load, but im already prepared to replace this with a brushless and if needed a new gear box. I first turned the car on its back to test it, and the wheels run like a power drill....literally.
Oh, and amazingly the car stays grounded, and dosnt flip onto its back when i gave it a quick tour on the tarmac outside. So i would like to thank everybody thats contributed to my endeavor, i couldnt have navigated my way through this with out you guys. I will upload a link to a video of the buggy after Christmas and show you guys how it runs at the moment.
In the meantime, could anybody suggest what motor to fit when this one eventually gives up the ghost? The buggy is a 1/10 scale Tamiya Sand Viper.
Thanks again
Mike
#10
Hallo folks.
So heres a quick update. I recieved the Overlander Lipo Battery 2200mAh 3S 11.1v 30C Supersport Deans Plug Li-Po 2567 and balance charger. I checked to see if it fits the battery compartment, and i actually had room to spare, so padded it out underneath with a couple of packing polyester curls. Snug as a bug. I checked to see if the ESC could first handle the extra voltage, and apparently it has a cut out mechanism that prevents the motor getting too hot, and a BEC? After soldering the Deans plugs onto the car as suggested, i fitted the battery and gave it a whirl.
I have ti say, it is quite astonishing, this buggy is FAST, so the earlier statement of "do i want to run the battery or the car", i guess i want to run this battery Im aware that a brushed motor isnt going to last very long under this kind of load, but im already prepared to replace this with a brushless and if needed a new gear box. I first turned the car on its back to test it, and the wheels run like a power drill....literally.
Oh, and amazingly the car stays grounded, and dosnt flip onto its back when i gave it a quick tour on the tarmac outside. So i would like to thank everybody thats contributed to my endeavor, i couldnt have navigated my way through this with out you guys. I will upload a link to a video of the buggy after Christmas and show you guys how it runs at the moment.
In the meantime, could anybody suggest what motor to fit when this one eventually gives up the ghost? The buggy is a 1/10 scale Tamiya Sand Viper.
Thanks again
Mike
So heres a quick update. I recieved the Overlander Lipo Battery 2200mAh 3S 11.1v 30C Supersport Deans Plug Li-Po 2567 and balance charger. I checked to see if it fits the battery compartment, and i actually had room to spare, so padded it out underneath with a couple of packing polyester curls. Snug as a bug. I checked to see if the ESC could first handle the extra voltage, and apparently it has a cut out mechanism that prevents the motor getting too hot, and a BEC? After soldering the Deans plugs onto the car as suggested, i fitted the battery and gave it a whirl.
I have ti say, it is quite astonishing, this buggy is FAST, so the earlier statement of "do i want to run the battery or the car", i guess i want to run this battery Im aware that a brushed motor isnt going to last very long under this kind of load, but im already prepared to replace this with a brushless and if needed a new gear box. I first turned the car on its back to test it, and the wheels run like a power drill....literally.
Oh, and amazingly the car stays grounded, and dosnt flip onto its back when i gave it a quick tour on the tarmac outside. So i would like to thank everybody thats contributed to my endeavor, i couldnt have navigated my way through this with out you guys. I will upload a link to a video of the buggy after Christmas and show you guys how it runs at the moment.
In the meantime, could anybody suggest what motor to fit when this one eventually gives up the ghost? The buggy is a 1/10 scale Tamiya Sand Viper.
Thanks again
Mike
You'll find brushed motors all over. If you type Yeah Racing Hackmoto V2 into search, you'll see the black canned, green heatsinked motors that will allow you to replace the brushes once they wear out. Pick out a desired winding to match your desired speeds.
Last edited by RustyUs; 12-22-2016 at 04:41 PM.