RustyUs

Ha! If I owe you, someone owes me! I just ordered myself two bodies yesterday from JConcepts. I was gonna wait, but feared the stock would disappear before I had the money. Good old credit card to the rescue. I looked around to see if any places like A Main, or Tower Hobbies had any supply come in. The T4.3 Finnisher bodies were nowhere to be found. Only at JConcepts did I see "In Stock" status.

Those universal roll pins that Associated calls them? The only reason I see to still put them on a RC... they won't fall out on a RTR. Like I said earlier in thread,

callsignMERLIN

Same reason I bought two. Paypal credit is where its at. 0% for 6 mo.

I've been using the wire from landscaping irrigation/electrical flags for tire pins.

wkumtrider

I broke the front end of my T4.3 chassis. I ordered a new from eBay. The manual said the chassis part # is 7440, but when the chassis arrived I noticed a few differences. The receiver box mounting hole does not line up and the holes for the battery threaded rods are in a different location. I guess the T4.3 has a few differences than the 4.1 and 4.2

RustyUs

The #7440 is the same chassis used since the beginning of the T4's appearance. There are two variations of the chassis. The original T4 had two sets of battery tray options to put 4-40 screws in; the forward option/holes was/were never used. Then the T4.1 introduced the #7440 chassis with the addition of the 5-40 set screw for the antenna, and forward battery strap mounting posts were gone. That same T.41 change in the #7440 chassis was used throughout Associated's T4.1 FT/T4.2RS-FT, and the T4.3 platforms. I think the T4.2RS was the first version, of the "T", to use the receiver box, and the 5-40 mounting screw.

Do you have a picture of the chassis?

RustyUs

DE Racing chassis brace should be looked at to "beef up" the front end...

wkumtrider

Here is a pic of the one I bought. Didn't realize there was a difference or I would have paid attention to the pic.

wkumtrider

The screw hole for mounting the receiver cover does not line up. I can't seem to un-thread the battery hold down rods from the broken chassis to insert in the new chassis.

wkumtrider

I should have gotten this one:

RustyUs

Yes, you have an original T4 chassis that does not have the extra hole by the antenna hole. When you do get some more of those 4-40 set screws, for your thumb knobs/battery strap, use a regular socket head 4-40 screw to get the threads started. Use grease on the threads of the socket head screw(s) as well as the new set screw's threads. The grease will make threading the chassis easier, and, when the time comes, makes for easier removal of those delicate set screws. I've had to use vise grips to remove those set screws already.

wkumtrider

I used vise grips to remove the battery set screws. I ordered another chassis, this one from a T4.3. Checked it out closely before buying and it is the correct one.

RustyUs

Since RCU changed posting rules, I can't edit earlier posts in thread (where I started my T4.3 build) I'll throw this post in here I guess. I can't even go back and edit a post from yesterday. If you ask me, this new posting parameter/rule is weird.

Top chassis in picture is original T4, and the bottom one is used on later models.

wkumtrider

Will a 550 size motor fit in the T4.3? Looking at the Reedy 550 but am concerned the motor guard will interfere with the larger motor.

RustyUs

Yes a 550/3656 sized motor will fit. They would be just a bit longer than 540/3650 sized motor. No interference from the motor guard.

Curious to know the reasoning why though. A 540 motor has enough "umph" for stadium trucks most of the time IMO. Having said that, I thought about putting a longer motor on my stadium trucks during the middle of summer when it's above 100°F and the sun beating down on the track. My thinking is that I would give up some run time in order to have a less stressed motor. But I never got around to doing the comparison.

RustyUs

Well the foams I used in the Step Pins are from years past, but were sealed up and new. I just wanted to use them up, 'cause, honestly, I didn't think the tires were going to outlast the foams. Boy, was I wrong.

How long did the foams last? Well, I forgot to keep track of my runs, but I know it was no more than 20 runs before the foams have all but desinergrated inside the tire. I have some Pro-Line closed cell stuff (blue, medium?). My intent was to put the blue medium closed cell foams inside the next batch of Step Pins. In the meantime, I'll probably order some AKA soft pink foams to use in the rear instead, and keep the medium foams for the front tires.

RustyUs

I've had it with the brushed setup that I installed in this T4.3 thing. Only can get about six minutes of run time before I feel the motor temp is too hot. I'm afraid I will melt the spur gear. Last night I brought the truck around to check temps, and I think the motor was on the verge of a meltdown.

I wish I would have kept some of my Reedy Ti motors to compare with today's brushed motors.

Needless to say, my stadium truck is getting the TSKY ESC treatment with whatever semi-decent 13.5T, or 17.5T I can find.

RustyUs

Scratch the 17.5T motor idea. My offers didn't get accepted from sellers on popular auction site. Yeah, I know. I'm a frugal son of a gun. So, going with one of the $LB ($uper Low Budget) sensorless motors that I'm familiar with putting in my bashers.

The above motor is $16.87, and is right around what I've paid for them in years past.

I've got quite a collection of bearing sizes going on to replace blown bearings in motors. Over the years; in almost every single stinkin' $LB's motor, it's the $0.02 bearings that they put in there that fail for me. After replacement of the bearings, the motors do pretty well.

I'm hoping my T4.3 will like this motor better than the time bomb I have in it now .

slick2500

TLDR.
What are your thoughts on this truck?
I have been looking at buying a rear motor stadium truck and I have narrowed it down to this or the HPI E-Firestorm 10T Flux. Will be mostly bashing with the occasional run around the local homemade rc track.

RustyUs

I have not had the pleasure of owning the E-Firestorm. I'm sure it is a fine stadium truck. I do know I would have bought one if it wasn't for the Duratrax Evader ST falling into my lap at a great price. The Team Associated T4.3 is basically the same as the T4 that started it all. Small subtle changes to the bearings, gears, and shocks have made the platform a great buy, and parts supply is great. I have not check up on HPI's parts supply in awhile. If parts can be found for the E-Firestorm, it would be a toss up for me choosing. I've been a Team Associated durability/performance fan a long time. I'd be leaning towards the RC10T4.3, but the HPI E-Firestorm 10T Flux still intrigues me.

slick2500

I had previously owned the Nitro Firestorm, and I currently have a Team Associated RC10B2 so I am a little familiar with both vehicles. Amain lists that they have quite a few parts for the Firestorm available but quite a bit are still out of stock. Most aftermarket parts other than Integy seem to be discontinued or out of stock. STRC doesn't even list the Blitz/Firestorm anymore, Rpm pretty much just has the bumpers left. It is also $50 more than the RC10T4.3. After doing some more research and especially with HPIs current situation I think I will just get the RC10T4.3.

Dafuq? Tower lists the standard rtr RC10T4.3 as discontinued https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ssing%20Data**

suburban_hooligan

listed out of stock on the AE website to. that's exactly what the TC4 did a couple months ago.
damn im so discouraged by AE lately. 3 of the 4 AE cars iv bought in the last 3 years are discontinued. and i came really close to buying a T4.whatever about a year ago. now im glad i didn't. dropping a few hundred bucks for no support and having to result to scouring the internet for parts only to resort to rising prices on ebay SUCKS!
the way things are going i can tell you it's going to be a LONG time before i buy anther AE product, im sick of this crap.

might as well buy the HPI, at least the factory is still manufacturing it and it's parts, which means there's a chance an LHS or online retailer will have what you need in stock and prices should stay consistent

now i just sit back and wait for them to discontinue the SC10. which would mean my "go to" basher would be S.O.L. i swear, im about to switch to nothing but tamiay's and to hell with the rest of the industry. cost is to damn high for the turnaround and lack of support these days. i hate to say it, but it's reached a point that being an RC hobbyist sucks

slick2500

I could always get a Team C TC02T, parts seem very plentiful for that.

RustyUs

My T4.3 was created out of boredom and too many eBay chop shop spare parts laying around. Parts support for discontinued Team Associated platforms is one of the main reasons I stick with them, and not to mention parts compatibility between the B4s, T4s, and SC10s. I like that I can buy handfuls of tranny parts and they all basically fit all my trucks and buggy.

The heyday of chop shops has past IMO. At least for the popular ones that started their actions at $.99 for parts. Bidding on RC parts...man, that was so addictive for me. I even got sucked into bidding on, what I call, promotional LiPo batteries. I'd be reselling LiPo batteries for three times the about I paid for them. It was getting outta control almost.

Back on topic somewhat...

Yeah, I think the "4" series of platforms is near the end of it's run. I did see stock of the T4.3 last week on Associated's website, but now, it's in limbo, and not on the discontinued list yet. The SC10.3 are still in stock though; that's good news.

Meh, I try not to think about how much I invested in the long term use of my Associated trucks. When the time comes, I know I will lose some money. I got one more RC that I got my eye on, and that shall fill the void in my surface RC collection (until something really cool comes out again ). That next RC, I'll try not to buy multiples of it...just one kit, and buy spares as I need them. No more stocking up on many years worth of spare parts!

RustyUs

Here's a funny one...

They sent me a F540 (finned) 3100kv instead! Now I gotta jump through all the hoops to clear this mess up. I've had a few issues with sellers, during the past 16 years on eBay, but I never had something sent to me that was completely different than what was pictured in listing. By the time I get what I ordered, it will be winter time with snow on the ground . Looks like my T4.3 will be brushed ticking time bomb a bit longer than expected.

The finned F540 motor would probably work on the T4.3 stadium truck. Heck, my Evader ST Pro weighs quite a bit more than the T4.3, and I had a finned 540 4300kv hanging off the back end of it. That one was a Hobbywing with plenty of umph...too much actually .

Rusty will be a little upset if Rusty has to pay to send the motor back because of somebody else's fault. Rusty knows it all too well...crap happens when dealing through Shenzhen. That's the price Rusty pays for going $LB (super low budget). If only Rusty had spent $15 more dollars for that Speed Passion motor he was going to buy.

RustyUs

Long story short...got the F540 3100kv for half price. Rushed around last night to swap out T4.2's ESC to replace the T4.3's brushed ESC, and get the little motor mounted up. I had to change ESC's connectors to match the motors. It (the motor) had regular length 4mm bullets like you would see on battery plug-in leads. Weird.

With the ambient temp still pushing 90°F, the T4.3 headed for the track to test it's "little" motor, now bolted on it's backside. I was pleasantly surprised for the F540 ("F" = Finned) motor putting out some great power. Definitely a step up from the 17T brushed motor that I was using. The black/gold F540 3100kv motor does not put out the same RPM/power as the low budget 540 3000kv that is used on my SC10...that blue (HobbyFans?) motor freaking rocks! I ran the motor WOT most of the run, too much speed for track conditions. Throttle EPA set at 85% was much better at making truck handle whoops/bumps on super rough track. 18/87 was the gearing that I used while the brushed motor was still in my truck. I just put that same 18T pinion on the new motor, for the sun was going down quickly. Motor was showing 154°F after battery pack was all said and done. To try to get as close to the speed feeling, of the motor used on my SC10, I may have to go up a tooth or two on the pinion gear.

My T4.3 is once again in a "happy place" with brushless motor installed. Not the motor I wanted, but for $8, we're gonna beat the snot out it, and see how long it lasts.

RustyUs

Old faithful Hobbywing EZRun 35A ESC and new "small block".