Volcano epx turn/hub issue
09-02-2017, 08:24 AM
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Volcano epx turn/hub issue
Hey everyone, I'm new to this forum and also new to the rc hobby! I bought a redcat volcano epx a few months back and put a brushless 3300kv motor in it and also upgraded the servo in hopes that my isssue would be solved... so my issue is that when I'm on roughy terrain or just regular grass (nothing to rough) I go to turn and the dog bone that connects to the wheel hub dislocates. It's really annoying because I have to take it all apart inorder to get the dog bone back in. I don't understand how it comes out so easily if I can't even pop it back in. I've adjusted the steering trim so that the wheels don't turn as far so it has less of a chance of happening but now I'm missing out on the turns that I'd like to me able to make. Is there some adjustments I can make or something I can do to correct this issue?? Thanks all!
09-02-2017, 12:22 PM
#2
Most RC's that use dogbones will have some sort of buffer/spring/o-ring(s) at each end of the dogbone to keep it centered while suspension is articulating. If an o-ring is used, sometimes they'll dry out; get worn out; smooshed, and chewed up. Possibly a part is missing that should be limiting droop (the amount of down travel a suspension arm has).
09-02-2017, 12:50 PM
#3
.... so my issue is that when I'm on roughy terrain or just regular grass (nothing to rough) I go to turn and the dog bone that connects to the wheel hub dislocates. It's really annoying because I have to take it all apart inorder to get the dog bone back in. I don't understand how it comes out so easily if I can't even pop it back in....
If you want to go all out, look into upgrading the axles to CVDs, or Universals.
09-02-2017, 02:45 PM
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If you get your Volcano EPX up off the ground, and turn your steering full left or right, I believe you will soon determine where and how your dog-bone issue is happening. The pin at either end of a dog-bone will sometimes grab the outside edge of one of the cups that it's in. I've use RC fuel tubing, foam earplugs, etc., etc., etc...anything with "sponginess" properties to keep my bones centered.
If you want to go all out, look into upgrading the axles to CVDs, or Universals.
If you want to go all out, look into upgrading the axles to CVDs, or Universals.
thanks for the reply! I'm going to try and using tubing to keep it centered and see how it works. I'm gonna look around to see what other options I have too as far as upgrades. Are you aware of any for the volcano epx?
09-10-2017, 07:01 AM
#7
That stinks. I'll add, ...been there; done that. All I can say is, some manufacturers make steel better than others.
Do the normal dog-bones hold up to the abuse of your new power plant? If so, then I'd just deal with them; keep centered; limit travel more, and paint them bones a bright color...easier to find when they fly out.
Do the normal dog-bones hold up to the abuse of your new power plant? If so, then I'd just deal with them; keep centered; limit travel more, and paint them bones a bright color...easier to find when they fly out.
09-10-2017, 07:38 AM
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That stinks. I'll add, ...been there; done that. All I can say is, some manufacturers make steel better than others.
Do the normal dog-bones hold up to the abuse of your new power plant? If so, then I'd just deal with them; keep centered; limit travel more, and paint them bones a bright color...easier to find when they fly out.
Do the normal dog-bones hold up to the abuse of your new power plant? If so, then I'd just deal with them; keep centered; limit travel more, and paint them bones a bright color...easier to find when they fly out.
09-10-2017, 07:48 AM
#9
so another update as of this morning I cleaned up the cvd's looked at the damage and it seems that the pin that locks the join had fallen out of both of them. The grub screw was still intact so I removed all joins and parts, filed them down, reshaped them, and took a framing nail and cut it to size. As you may know with a framing nail on one side it has a head that's a bit larger so that held that side in. As for the other side I took a hammer and tapped it and formed a head on the other side. I reinserted the grub screw with red locktite and tested the join for full mobility and it worked perfect. The nail is sanwhiched in the joint. I reinstalled the cvd's into the truck and took it for a few test runs. Hit about 50 and made a few sharp turns and maneuvers. Works AMAZINGLY!!! Let's hope it keeps holing up. For now it's a win in my book. Hope this helps anyone with a similar issue.
09-10-2017, 07:52 AM
#10
That stinks. I'll add, ...been there; done that. All I can say is, some manufacturers make steel better than others.
Do the normal dog-bones hold up to the abuse of your new power plant? If so, then I'd just deal with them; keep centered; limit travel more, and paint them bones a bright color...easier to find when they fly out.
Do the normal dog-bones hold up to the abuse of your new power plant? If so, then I'd just deal with them; keep centered; limit travel more, and paint them bones a bright color...easier to find when they fly out.
.
09-10-2017, 08:13 AM
#11
Ummm... Red Loktite might be too much, Blue would be fine. I understand you don't want the pin to fall out, but a framing nail may wear out before the CVD does. Then how do you get the grub screw out? Nice that you figured out a way to fix it. But a better material for CVD pins is "music wire". Thin hardened steel rod you can buy at the hobby store for just a few bucks. But you need just the right size. If you have a micrometer, you can measure the stock pins, then buy the appropriate size music wire. You'll have enough material to make CVD pins for a lifetime. And they'll be better than stock. Otherwise, you'll have to take your CVD to the store and test fit until you find the size you need.
09-10-2017, 08:14 AM
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I'm just glad the cvd's were salvageable because I really do like them over the dog bones... when they work. It's annoying on rough terrain when the steering gets jerked around and dog bones get displaced.
09-10-2017, 08:17 AM
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Ummm... Red Loktite might be too much, Blue would be fine. I understand you don't want the pin to fall out, but a framing nail may wear out before the CVD does. Then how do you get the grub screw out? Nice that you figured out a way to fix it. But a better material for CVD pins is "music wire". Thin hardened steel rod you can buy at the hobby store for just a few bucks. But you need just the right size. If you have a micrometer, you can measure the stock pins, then buy the appropriate size music wire. You'll have enough material to make CVD pins for a lifetime. And they'll be better than stock. Otherwise, you'll have to take your CVD to the store and test fit until you find the size you need.
