60A-SL Brushless ESC
#1
Thread Starter
60A-SL Brushless ESC
They come in many different forms, names, and colored wires. TSKY, HobbyFans, HobbyPower, ....list goes on, and on. They all try to be something else (EZRun ESCs).
Features:
With very low resistance.
60A brushless sensorless 2-3S LiPo ESC.
Excellent start-up, acceleration and linearity features.
ESC programming in a short time and get ready for next run.
Use high quality electronic components to enhance the current endurance ability of the ESC.
Built-in 1.5A / 5V switch mode BEC has powerful output to supply all the electronic equipments.
Plenty of programmable items, suitable for 1/10 RC racing tracks.
Specifications:
Material: aluminum
Main color: blue
Cooling system: Yes
Constant current: 60A
Burst current: 320A (10S)
BEC output: 1.5A / 5V
Plug: T Plug
Connector: 4mm banana plug
Input: 2-3 cells LiPo, 4~9NiMH battery
Resistance: 0.0007 Ohm
Motor supported: sensorless, brushless
Size: 42 * 27 * 32mm (without cable)
Weight: 54g (with cable)
- Compatible with all sonsorless brushless motor.
- Use top quality electronic components to enhance the current endurance ability of the ESC.
- Excellent start-up, acceleration and linearity features.
- With 4 steps of maximum reverse force adjustment.
- With 3 running modes: Racing mode (Forward), Forward/Backward mode and Rock Crawler mode.
- Proportional ABS brake function with 4 steps of maximum brake force adjustment, 8 steps of drag-brake force adjustment and 4 steps of initial brake force adjustment.
- With 9 start modes (Also called "Punch" ) from "Soft" to "Very aggressive" to suitable for different tracks.
- Multiple protection features: Low voltage cut-off protection for lithium or nickel battery / Over-heat protection / Throttle signal loss protection / Motor blocked protection.
- With 8 steps of timing adjustment to get the best compatibility with various of motors.
- Easily program with only one button and compatible with pocket-sized program card.
- The ESC is USB supported. The firmware of the ESC can be updated through an USB adapter on the Advanced LCD Program Box (Optional device).
I started this thread instead posting my usage/results in a generic thread. Share your thoughts about these little power houses.
Features:
With very low resistance.
60A brushless sensorless 2-3S LiPo ESC.
Excellent start-up, acceleration and linearity features.
ESC programming in a short time and get ready for next run.
Use high quality electronic components to enhance the current endurance ability of the ESC.
Built-in 1.5A / 5V switch mode BEC has powerful output to supply all the electronic equipments.
Plenty of programmable items, suitable for 1/10 RC racing tracks.
Specifications:
Material: aluminum
Main color: blue
Cooling system: Yes
Constant current: 60A
Burst current: 320A (10S)
BEC output: 1.5A / 5V
Plug: T Plug
Connector: 4mm banana plug
Input: 2-3 cells LiPo, 4~9NiMH battery
Resistance: 0.0007 Ohm
Motor supported: sensorless, brushless
Size: 42 * 27 * 32mm (without cable)
Weight: 54g (with cable)
- Compatible with all sonsorless brushless motor.
- Use top quality electronic components to enhance the current endurance ability of the ESC.
- Excellent start-up, acceleration and linearity features.
- With 4 steps of maximum reverse force adjustment.
- With 3 running modes: Racing mode (Forward), Forward/Backward mode and Rock Crawler mode.
- Proportional ABS brake function with 4 steps of maximum brake force adjustment, 8 steps of drag-brake force adjustment and 4 steps of initial brake force adjustment.
- With 9 start modes (Also called "Punch" ) from "Soft" to "Very aggressive" to suitable for different tracks.
- Multiple protection features: Low voltage cut-off protection for lithium or nickel battery / Over-heat protection / Throttle signal loss protection / Motor blocked protection.
- With 8 steps of timing adjustment to get the best compatibility with various of motors.
- Easily program with only one button and compatible with pocket-sized program card.
- The ESC is USB supported. The firmware of the ESC can be updated through an USB adapter on the Advanced LCD Program Box (Optional device).
I started this thread instead posting my usage/results in a generic thread. Share your thoughts about these little power houses.
Last edited by RustyUs; 08-14-2017 at 04:10 PM.
#3
Thread Starter
The other night I thought I had one of these ESCs conked out on me. A freshly charged battery pack, my steering servo was super slow, and no throttle...red LED would flash ever time I gave WOT. Put another fully charged pack in, and the same thing happened. What the...? I changed out the battery lead, and off we went. No problems since. Birdcage style bullets not making contact inside the battery's input tubes, or the "birdcage" itself was not making contact? Bad solder joints?
Last edited by RustyUs; 08-14-2017 at 04:17 PM.
#4
Thread Starter
I spoke to soon.
Same nonsense with the ESC. Acting up again. Three more freshly charged packs...all will give one shot of juice through the ESC and into the motor. One split second of motor running, then ESC acts like it's running on 1 AA battery. Servo not up to speed. Sooo slow, I'm not wasting time checking the voltage. The ESC is unable to be calibrated now. I'll probably chuck it after I have a look what' inside.
Same nonsense with the ESC. Acting up again. Three more freshly charged packs...all will give one shot of juice through the ESC and into the motor. One split second of motor running, then ESC acts like it's running on 1 AA battery. Servo not up to speed. Sooo slow, I'm not wasting time checking the voltage. The ESC is unable to be calibrated now. I'll probably chuck it after I have a look what' inside.
#5
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I just bought a hobby power 60a-sl and it acted weird as well, took 50-60 jabs at reverse before it would back up while flashing the warning green light, then 50 more jabs to go forward again after about 5 runs I used the brakes and then the truck started convulsing and shot smoke out of the battery. I tried another battery and it still just shakes and doesn't go anywhere.
#7
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I Tried a few calibrations up until it the battery nearly caught on fire.
According to the poorly written instructions the green light indicates a low voltage safe cut off, but it does it even with freshly charged batteries.
According to the poorly written instructions the green light indicates a low voltage safe cut off, but it does it even with freshly charged batteries.
#8
Thread Starter
LVC only turned on during use of LiPo batteries. If using NiMh/NiCd packs...turn off the LVC.
During the use of the ESC; with LVC turned on, a flashing Red LED usually means the LVC has been triggered.
During the use of the ESC, a flashing Green LED usually indicates the OHP (over-heat protection) has been triggered.
During the use of the ESC; with LVC turned on, a flashing Red LED usually means the LVC has been triggered.
During the use of the ESC, a flashing Green LED usually indicates the OHP (over-heat protection) has been triggered.
#9
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Hmm, well then it was giving the overheat protection green light from the very first trigger pull. It had a few runs but now it'll just shake a bit when you pull the trigger with multiple batteries tried everything gets pretty hot even when it just sits there and shakes.
i paid $40 for this brushless combo, so quality and durability were probably pretty low on the list.
i paid $40 for this brushless combo, so quality and durability were probably pretty low on the list.
#10
Thread Starter
You can disable the OHP, and see if the flashing Green LED stops. If Green LED continues to flash, then it's something else.
I, at one time, had three different variants of the 60A-SL, and a HobbyWing EZRun 60A ESC. They all had the same method of setup;same flashing LED, and same parameters to adjust. Now, I'm down to a couple of these ESCs as some have "died" on me. Most recent one (post #4) had sporadic energy flow that I could not fix. My oldest low $ 60A-SL ESC, has been beat up real good. I'm running it without fan. It's been spayed with brake cleaner; thus cracking the case; copper foil inside resoldered to make connection from reversed polarity mishap, and the thing still asks for more punishment....I can't explain it.
I, at one time, had three different variants of the 60A-SL, and a HobbyWing EZRun 60A ESC. They all had the same method of setup;same flashing LED, and same parameters to adjust. Now, I'm down to a couple of these ESCs as some have "died" on me. Most recent one (post #4) had sporadic energy flow that I could not fix. My oldest low $ 60A-SL ESC, has been beat up real good. I'm running it without fan. It's been spayed with brake cleaner; thus cracking the case; copper foil inside resoldered to make connection from reversed polarity mishap, and the thing still asks for more punishment....I can't explain it.
#11
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I went through the parameters and supposedly turned the safe cut offs off but it'd still flash the green led. It would also have full speed in reverse
the problems really started after I had it going full speed then kicked the brake on, it stopped fine, but had a grinding noise when taking off again, it went about 3 minutes making the grinding sound then stopped and I could smell hot electronics.
the problems really started after I had it going full speed then kicked the brake on, it stopped fine, but had a grinding noise when taking off again, it went about 3 minutes making the grinding sound then stopped and I could smell hot electronics.
#12
Thread Starter
After having one of these 60A-SL speed controls in my SC10; for two years now, I think it finally gave up. One big harsh landing, and poof. I lost steering, and motor power. I will have to check closer, but battery is good, and ESC won't turn on. Was is worth $8~$12 for two years of use?
#13
Thread Starter
After having one of these 60A-SL speed controls in my SC10; for two years now, I think it finally gave up. One big harsh landing, and poof. I lost steering, and motor power. I will have to check closer, but battery is good, and ESC won't turn on. Was is worth $8~$12 for two years of use?