blvdbuzzard

We had a great day at the track today. Lots of fun. We got there at 10:00 just after the training course ended.

We get our DHL Raz-R's all setup and head to the stand. This was the first test of the new tires. We bought Bar Codes on all 4 corners. I start out and yes they stick to the track like velcro, BIG TIME. My brother get about 1/2 a lap and we hear his spur gear let go. FFFFFFZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ . We head back to the pits. Well it is toast. I did not bring mine, 63 miles away, he did not have one, hobby shop that carries it, 30 mile round trip. We look at, check it as best we could, but the teeth were about 3/4 gone. Well my brother gets really pissed off, says all sorts of nice words and phrases. I see him walk off. I wanted to make a few changes to my truck so I get to work. I found the suspension is way to stiff now with the clay tires. I dial as much stiffness out of the sway bars as I could. make sure everything is good to go, look up and my brother went to the counter and bought a SC10 RTR Monster energy. He mumbles he did not drive that damn far, look forward to driving at the track. He was gonna drive no matter what.

So, I helped him get his SC10 setup, very sweet ride. We head out to the stand again. We are doing laps. My truck is just not happy. It is twitchy, before it had tons of under steer, you would turn and nothing would happen, now, it sort of bounced around the turn. Just was not planted always seemed on the edge of flipping or driving off into the wild blue yonder. I screw with the spring rates, adjust toe in and toe out, camber and it just does not seem to be working. It was getting a lot better, but never felt like it was on rials. Sort of ready to fall off the rail is closer to the truth. So as I am struggling with my Razr, brother is getting used to the SC10. He pl;ays with the radio a little, he want to use expo and the RTR radio does not have it. We drain the batteries and they were just about ready to water the track, so we head to the pits.

I tweak on my truck a little more. Brother and I swap in a Rx for his GT3C radio, we dial in -50% to start. But some how or another we lost reverse? Not sure how we did it, but it does not have revers now. Need to read the manual I guess.

So this brings to my next truck. I am going to order a SC10.2, the factory team kit. I do not want nor do I need a another RTR radio to collect dust on the shelf. So I need to get a motor ESC combo. We will be using 2s batteries, now, he is my brother, so I want more power then his RTR sc10. Well, as long as it has about the same power or just a touch more, I NEED to have a faster motor, brotherly love and all.

I was looking at these sets. If you know of a better one in about the same price range please let me know.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDRLN&P=0

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCACY&P=0

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAZUP&P=0

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCACB&P=0


Buzz.

RustyUs

Okay. So I had my SC10.2 for a couple years now. Today I'm finishing up another build of a SC10.2 from spare parts. I should actually call the truck a SC10.1.5 version, because only half of the Factory Team parts were available in my boxes of parts . Anyway.

As I opened up the chop shop bags of front/rear suspension components, I noticed the color of Associated's ball cups to be a dark gray instead of the normal black ball cups everyone has come to dislike over the years.

Old Black......New Gray


I use the stock AE ball cups, unless I'm racing, on all of my RCs. They get used until one pops off from mishap, or the slop gets to me. I then swap them out for RPM or JConcepts ball cups.

My question is--did Team Associated do a running change to their ball cup material after 2013?

RustyUs

I was in rare painting mood again. I've always associated red white, and blue with Team Associated. Before I put my painting supplies away for a year, I went with a simple design so I could get the body done quick.

RustyUs

I have a couple of one piece (#91455) SC5M steering links that I thought about using, but they use the 5.5mm heavy duty ball studs. I got the one piece links way back when the B5 came out, and just never used them, because I didn't realize they go on 5.5mm ball studs.

The reason for me thinking about using the one piece steering link is that I've tore the standard ballcups from the threaded rod after only running two battery packs through new stock linkage. The ballcup separating from the steering link rod threads maybe saved some damage happening elsewhere? The bad landing didn't seem all that bad though .

Has anyone ever tapped their FT aluminum bellcrank to accept 3mm threaded ball studs?

Would the 4-40 threaded hole still have enough material on the aluminum bellcrank to tap a 3mm thread? This is what I really want to know. I guess it pretty much doesn't matter if the new cut threads don't hold. I could always get one of the longer studs and put a nut on it.

RustyUs

Plenty material to tap 4-40 (2.84mm) hole and make it 3mm. At least it seems that way. Now, just waiting on 3mm nut to secure ball stud on the servo arm ...

RustyUs

I forgot to mention the alignment of servo horn when using the SC5M servo link. I had to move the servo horn one notch from where it was. You want it straight up and down (90*).

RustyUs

From RC Tech...Yeah, time will tell. What's weird is, all my other B4, T4s, SC10s never had an issue with stock servo linkage. This SC10.2 has only a handful of runs on it after bringing it out of retirement. Every other run results in servo link's threaded rod pulling out of RPM, JConcepts, and stock AE ballcups. Since this truck is the only Associated platform to give me a steering headache, something had to be done. So far, so good. After a few good runs on the track, the newly cut threads on the SC10.2's bellcrank are solid, and holding. I can once again enjoy the SCT, and not do the hang my head in shame walk.
​​​​​​​

RustyUs

The gullwing arms are sorta a love/hate thing with me. They are one of the reasons for me not running the SC10.2 that much in the past. With a mild 13.5T motor onboard now, and having gone through many pistons and oil combos, I'm almost to the point of happiness again with the truck.

RustyUs

Took awhile to find some thin M3 nuts. The first round of nuts (eBay seller Diablo Tuning) I got were about 3mm thick, and rubbed the top plate. No specs on nut thickness from Diablo Tuning. So I ran without having a nut on backside of servo arm ball stud. Second batch of nuts, I specifically looked at thickness spec...if seller had it available. A big Thank You goes out to eBay seller hardwarefasteners: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-S...item2cc4f993bf