rotor head33

19t pinion works great with the stock spur

mastermanwin2

ok thanks but i already have a 16t so ill use thatto see where im at then go higher or lower

And i mind as well buy a 19t pinion while im buying the motor online..

stonecolded

c'mon guys tell me what you think !!!
I think it rips.....

FairTax4me

What gearing?

mastermanwin2

ok i think this is my last question on motors....I am wondering which is better the 17x2 SV2 Formula Pro-Bearing (ORI22039~purchase code) or the Method R V2 17x2 Limited Edition (ORI25123~purchase code) They both have ball bearings and adjustable timing. If someone has either of these can you help me make a good pick.

What does the 17x2 mean??....i know 17 turn but what about the x2???

I want to make sure im getting my $40 worth spending on a motor that with exceed overall performance of my stock titan in my rustler xl-5 by a good amount.

Other info is that i have a 7 and 8 cell batteries and have pretty much every pinion and spur gear you can buy.

stonecolded

because i use 7.4 volts lipo i'm still on stock gearing......
Oh yeah... yesterday i took the rustler manual and re-centered my servo and setup new camber and toe in on my truck, you won't believe the improvement i got !! Now it turns alot better and is very stabile at high speed. i use 50 wt silicone front and rear and some preload rings now.... I'm alot happier about the handling of my rustler then i used to be.

JJay03

Whats the stock oil weight on the vxl I thought about going with something else but not sure what weight.

ferrariowner123

hello im new to electric but RC and i recently picked up a Stampede VXL and i realized its sucks at braking, braking, jumping basically everything, its fast but thats about it. And i wanna convert it to a Rustler to get better handling, i think all need is the Rustler Chassis and support bracket right? are there any other things i need to consider when doing this swtich? will this improve handling?

Thanks

Ferrari

simplecj

I think all you have to change is the chassis and maybe the front bulkhead (not sure if that's different. I believe you can still leave the body mounts as they are and keep the stampede body if you want to. Or you could take off the rear tower extension and get a new front body mount to use the Rustler body.

A kid in my local club said the same thing after bashing around with me and my Rustler. He likes his stampede, but it's CG is too high for the kind of power and speed these brushless systems can put out. It's even a bit much for the Rustler if you don't have good driving skills.

You will have a lot more fun if you make this conversion, I promise!

krimo

Just in case no one has answered your question.

I've used Traxxas part #2634R successfully on my Rustler. Here's the description from the Nitro Rustler with TRX 2.5 (Model 4409 - 2007) Parts List:
2634R Caster blocks, (25-degree) (l&r)...$4.50

You can get them from Towerhobbies: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJG82&P=7

There is a possibility the Jato part #5536X Caster blocks, 25-degree, titanium-anodized 6061-T6 aluminum (left & right)...$ 38.00 may work but I'm not
sure. I haven't tried it. If you take the stock caster block to your LHS and if they have the #5536X part then maybe you can compare the two.

krimo

If I recall some drilling may be necessary. Check out: http://www.ultimatetraxxas.com/proje...project-05.php.
They basically converted the stock Rustler's front hubs to Nitro Rustler specifications.

krimo

Traxxas talks about strengthening the axle carriers in its Knowledge Base under the FAQ:
http://www.traxxas.com/support/kb_se...ighlight=2634r

And, they use the Traxxas #2634R in this FAQ.

Hope this helps.

ferrariowner123

thanks i really hate this things turning capibilties, and i really wanna nimble truck, Not like F-1 nimble but atleast something that will turn in the general direction i want it too. lol

do you know of any quick chasis tricks i can do to make this thing a little better while i wait for some cash?

simplecj

[link=http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RUSTLER-VXL-ASSEMBLED-CHASSIS-ROLLER-TONS-OF-PARTS_W0QQitemZ300286499532QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadi o_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item300286499532&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50]Fully assembled chassis - $49 w/ shipping[/link] - This would be ideal for you, even comes with a servo, linkage and new VXL screws. This way you can use most of your Stampede for spare parts and just move over your ESC and motor and a few other parts...

[link=http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TRAXXAS-RUSTLER-VXL-UPPER-LOWER-CHASSIS-BANDIT_W0QQitemZ250353497815QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRad io_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item250353497815&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50]Just the chassis, upper deck & ESC mount plate - $23 w/ shipping[/link] - I believe this is the least that you need. I seem to remember that the upper deck on the stampede is different too.

Not sure what you mean about chassis "tricks"... just convert it to a rustler, get your wheels lined up good and you should be golden... well you could always go with better shocks to improve handling, but one thing at a time right? Honestly if you can come up with $50 that assembled chassis would make things for you ALOT easier and it's actually a pretty good deal with the shock towers, body mounts, servo and linkage... besides that, spare parts are always a good thing to have on hand!

Here's a description if you didn't check the link yet...

This is a brand new, never ran, Traxxas Rustler VXL chassis roller. Kit comes with the following parts:

Front & Rear suspension arms
Castors & Cambers
Full set of wheel bearings
Left & right VXL driveshafts
Upper and lower chassis plates
Bell-crank steering assembly
Turnbuckles and camber links
Front & rear body mounts & shock towers
Front & rear bumper
Battery hold-down
Traxxas Tool kit
Assembly manual
Spare pinion gear

ImpalaPolicePack

ok i have a rustler xl-5 and i need a motor and esc
i just buy a ezrun 13T brushless combo on ebay for 79$ shipped
i would like to know what kind of gear modification a have to do to the drivetrain !?
i dont want to break the differential of something like that ...

thaNKS !

anyone can help me ?

ferrariowner123

yeah i saw that, i'm just gonna wait untill i get a little money for a LiPo and get that first then the chasis. thanks for the help and the links.

Cheap Guy

Here's a link to a guy running a 23/78 setup. That's what I'm running but because it's winter and I haven't been able to run it outside of the basement.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=944954&page=4

ImpalaPolicePack

sorry i dont know a lot about electric i own a nitro firestorm and i bought the rustler for my girlfriend so she can come with me when i bash around

here tis winter and she will drive inside a bit and when the weather will be nice she will use it outside
she burn the original xl-5 driving indise the livingroom and i dont want her to burn the ezrun combo
do i only need a smaller spur gear ? 78 tooth ?

thanks

Cheap Guy

I think the XL-5 comes standard with a 86t spur gear and a choice of 19t and 28t pinions, but as I stated, you would need the motor pinion (23 tooth) and the transmission spur gear (78 tooth) or very close to it (I think you may have to go with a 76t spur since you have a newer XL-5). If you want to be extra careful, try a 21 tooth pinion (or even the 19t pinion - the lower the pinion, the lesser the stress (more torque but less top speed). I ran my Rustler with a Graupner 600 brushed motor last night with a 23 pinion/84 spur gear and it didn't get hot doing a bunch of donuts in the basement, but I'm going to switch to a smaller 19t pinion.

rustlerdog

Couple things.. First let me say that I really do enjoy the hobby and its given me a lot of fun for the very short time ive been able to enjoy the car lol.

Ownership: 3 weeks
Packs through the car: roughly 10

Broke so far:
Front stock A arm (first pack through the car.. ugh)
Stock Caster blocks (My own fault most likely due to the Integy Alloy A-arms I replaced the stock ones with)
Back tire fell off during a run (np, just had to get another nut)
Stripped idler gear maybe diff (confirmed with traxxas tech support but i have not opened tranny yet)


So far I am averaging every 2 packs I put through the car something else breaks. From reading, I now think that maybe the spur gear is to tight (Have not touched it since I bought the car) since the guy at my LHS said its pretty tough to strip an internal transmission gear before stripping a spur (stock 48p 90t)

All I do is some simple backyard bashing, no jumps, no street, just grass with some small holes in it that my dog dug up. Car just feels so fragile (I am now treating it damn near like an egg lol). Anyway, after a lot of research here and looking through the wealth of information from misbehavin RC this is what i pulled the trigger on this morning:


RPM Front and Rear shock towers
RPM Front Bumper
RPM Bearing Carriers Front and Rear
RPM Caster Blocks
RPM Front and Rear A-Arms
RPM Spring Cups
RPM Gear Cover
Traxxas Big-Bore Aluminum Shocks Front and Rear
Traxxas 30T Aluminum Idler gear
Traxxas Planetary Gear Differential w/Steel Ring Gear
MIP C-CVD Kit for Electric Rustler/Stampede
MIP Carbide Diff Lube
Kimbrough Servo Saver Large double end
Kimbrough Spur Gear 48p 84T
Replacement pins for all stock suspension pins

Still Stock:
Steering Servo
Radio/Receiver
XL-5 ESC
Titan 12t 550 motor

Do you guys think I can manage at least a solid amount of battery packs through the car before something else goes? []

I dont mind repairing the car but man it needs to start paying some fun dividends too. [:@]

JJay03

Just got in my trakpower 5400 cant wait to try it out .

cenracer1

Your problem is most likely caused by two things.. Please don't take this wrong...

#1 Driver error.. any broken parts bulkheads and arms are due to hitting solid objects, especially when its cold outside.. the parts that broke are plastic and cold makes them brittle.. adding aluminum makes things worse...

#2 slipper is way too tight for the driving conditions.. If you are going to run on grass, you MUST loosen the slipper.. I have the brushless and never have a problem with the diff or spur gear and mine is set just about max tightness, but I run this way on dirt and pavement... The tires will slip enough to prevent damage to the internal gears.. If I go on grass, I will damage the spur or worse, destroy the internal diff gears.. The metal idler gear will eventually wear out, but not after 1 run unless something locks it up.. I've gone thu 3 in 5 years... (with different Rustlers)... Grass has too much grip believe it or not and is very tough on the transmission.. I had mip cvd's, but went back to the stock ones with a metal yoke after breaking them twice.. Integy ones lasted less than 15 seconds...
You are one of the very few guys who has had issues with the truck, but I guarantee if you loosen the slipper a bit, your problems will go away... Now just avoid hitting things.... no truck was designed to survive that, especially in the cold weather..

FairTax4me

Why aluminum? The steel one is a lot tougher, and it costs 5 times less. Plus it will be next to a steel drive gear in the transmission, and the harder steel gear will wear down the softer aluminum one a lot quicker than it could wear down a steel gear.

rustlerdog

This is exactly what i was looking to hear . I take no offense to any of your comments and really appreciate them. I would rather hear that its on me to understand more about the truck and learn how to get the slipper right for my terrain then "get used to it, they are just made that way". Being that this is my first hobby grade truck I am definitely not a good driver yet and i do hit things (I at least got better at avoidance and breaking over my few runs).

I will loosen the slipper a bunch and then tighten it up slowly as neccessary (Should i go no more then half a turn or should i go a decent amount more then that for my conditions? (90% grass 10% driveway/sidewalk for turnarounds))

Chalk that up to my inexperience and lack of knowledge. I will run through the aluminum that i bought and replace it with steel in the future. Thanks for the advice

JJay03

The manual explains how to adjust the slipper pretty well.