savyboy88

what the,why did it come out so big

savyboy88

lets try again

savyboy88

here

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

good job man...

im going to the track tomorrow to tune some stuff, been debating whether to go or not all week now, 2 days from race day im going [sm=wink_smile.gif]

try to get some pics of the srt to make the pede feel better.

edit: screw it! im upgrading my pede. to heck with the summit, it aint going anywhere so whats the rush?! pede first than everything else! now i just need to find the cash

savyboy88

wow, i had a closer look at my truck today, its trashed,

broken parts include:
chassis
bulkhead
front shock tower
rear shock tower
front bumper
bent hinge pins
cracked transmission case

TIGER76

^ Damn what did you hit a mine field? lol good job traxxas parts are cheap

grabbed some 1/8th shocks for the pede just need to sort the back ones out a bit high for me maybe trim the springs off a bit but at least i can drop it from height without the standard shocks bottoming out []

..need to clean the beach off the underside too [8D]

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

nice, i guess my oversizing is rubbing off on ya!

intimidator_md

Girlfriend saw my lights on my Slash and needed some for her Pede. So what the hey, I got her an 8 LED set and put them on.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]

TIGER76

Looks sweet m8y [8D]
rollon night time sessions now lol

ericg2000

i just got a rustler, but it's an older model and it will cost a lot to upgrade... so i may drive it as it is for now and eventually upgrade to a stampede.  my first question is do they roll over a lot.  almost every video on youtube, the stampede rolls whenever the driver cuts the wheel.  also, will the stock xl-5 do wheelies?  that's something i really want to do.  my rustler won't and by the time i upgrade everything i might as well buy something new.  and i really like the stampede look. 

everyone says the titan motors suck, whats your opinions on them in the stampede?  i've heard don't waste the time putting one in my rustler.  opinions please.

thanks

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

the titans... well they suck run one in my blue eagle and it burnt out after 2 race days (total of like 16 minutes racing plus whatever time i ran it around the house and my secret practice area/ sand box)

the pede is a great car but really the rusty is a better setup from a handling perspective.

takes a lot of dialing in but you can get most of the high cg issues worked out on the pede, the best one ive found is to mount your packs (nimhs and hard case ONLY) underneath and lower it a bit.

wheelies are not great on the car (they rock tho so worth it in a way) but the best way to do it in both the ruty and pede is to put a bunch of pre-load spacers and tighten the slipper as much as possible and it doesnt hurt to find a rough spot on the asphalt to start from

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Eric, if your not racing the Titan motors are ok. Since you have an older model, you have several things to think about.
1. Maybe just put a brushed motor in it. Find out what the lowest turn motor your esc will handle and put one of those motors in it and have fun.
2. Maybe save some money and go brushless, you will need the brushless esc and motor.
3. Just run it like it is, keep an eye on RCU ads and ebay and pick up a newer model Pede alot cheaper than new.

My son and I have ran about 6 packs each through our trucks, we have the new XL-5s. They are still running great, but we are just bashing and not racing. I have two modified Trinity 15T double turn motors waiting to replace them. I will report their performance later this spring.

Here is a vid of my son and one of his friends that came over yesterday. They had a blast. We have a much larger area to run in near buy but my son's Friend is learning how to drive an RC truck so I just set them out in the front yard. I also trimmed his radio down to 75% throttle.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kbWocNzYVw[/youtube]

gwcrim

My limited experience with Titan motors was HORRIBLE.  I got two XL-5 Stampedes for my boys last Christmas.  Both motors died in less than one month.  They were replaced by Novak brushless 8.5t combos.  One of them died! 

If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all.

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Are you sure it isn't their driving style that is killing the motors? What batts are you running? Maybe they were geared wrong.

Knoxes

I just bought one of these for my son. It ran beautifully for a couple of days. I don't know what he did, but it looks like the pinion gear was slipping on the spur gear. I tightened it up with that pivot screw and tightened down the slipper clutch(?), but now it's making a lot of racket and is about half as fast as it was before. Previously, the motor AND the battery would get pretty warm, but now the battery isn't warm at all, and the motor is almost too hot to touch.

Also, the rear shocks/springs don't seem to work well - if you push the rear down, it only comes back about halfway.

I know next to nothing about cars (strictly a pilot) - I could really use some guidance here.

gwcrim

IMO, if it's an entry level truck (as the Stampede is) and you call it Ready To Run, it should be as bullet proof as you can make it. If it's geared wrong in the box, that's not MY fault. It obviously was NOTReady To Run.

But then that's MY opinion, and we all know what opinions are like. Now that I've sunk another couple hundred dollars into each truck, they're great. I probably should have bought the VXL to begin with. Iam, however, happy with the smooth application of power from the Novak system over the VXL. Not a huge deal, but nice.

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

I thought you may have changed the gearing, I still don't know what batteries you are running.
These trucks should not be run in tall grass, it will run the motors hot and burn them up. You should also let the motors cool down between runs, and you should let the batteries cool down before you charge them again and they shold only be charged a max of 3 times a day, that is why it is good to have multiple packs.

Brainanator

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds like you striped the spur gear (big plastic one) and when you re set the gear mesh (how the gears go together) to made it too tight, this is called binding. The motor is working really really now to spin up, so you're damaging your motor, and the motor bushing.
Check your manual for proper gear meshing technique. You may need to buy a new spur, and I would always have 2-3 on hand (at least I do for my slash, which has the same transmission as the pede).

Knoxes

Yeah, I think I just kinda figured that part out. I don't have a new spur gear yet, but I did ease off the gear mesh and it's running better. But now I have a problem with the slipper clutch I think. It'll get up to speed but it chirps a lot getting there. I've tried adjusting it the full range, but it never quite goes away.

SyCo_VeNoM

Just picked me up a used pede
came with 2 spur gears the one in it was too big and grinding into the axels, a 15t esc and motor.
so I popped on a white spur gear that was in the baggie of parts the guy sent, he had some black gear which was wayyy too large for the tranny (it was hitting the drive shaft)
threw in a 15t Fireball motor, and a HPI SC-15 ESC (need a ESC mount still), and my 2.4ghz rx from my custom buggy which I'm parting out (thing lost so many rear axels it aint funny)
Also used a 18tooth pinion I had laying around seeing the guy had none with it.

Question is there any way to extend the body mount posts? the guy also gave a brand new 1/10th scale explorer body but the body posts are too low and it I slap it on it will hit the wheels.

other question does anyone know where I can get those little battery hex screws that hook the batery hold down cheap? I need like 6-8 of those and don't need the rest of the parts of the hold down kit traxxas sells.

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

i dont think you can get a bunch of them at once unless someone on ebay has a bunch for sale

SyCo_VeNoM

yea noticed found a tad cheaper way though
seems traxxas sells them by the 2's with a battery hold down bar for $1.50 cheaper or so (found it out while on my atomic by accident) without the radio hold down support and clips
just ordered them
still though need to know if anyone knows how to extent the mounting arms

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

the rear or front?

SyCo_VeNoM

both need to be bumped up an inch or so I'd guess

I actually was looking at a sheet of aluminum I have and thinking of using that seeing the mounting posts actually don't support anything really.

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

an inch? wow, you might need to do some body trimming

the front can be raised with som longer screws and spacers
the back can be raised by mounting the botttom as high as possible (top hole of shock tower to lowest mounting hole on body mount)