Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Nick,
the first thing you need to do, is get smaller tires.

GREAT NEWS!!
Got our Pede's ready today. Installed our new Turnigy 60amp Brushless escs, and our Kershaw Design 9L brushless motors. Went with stock spur and 23T pinion. Oh, and we are running 2s 4000mah lipos.
They run very fast and have tons of torque. After about 3 min of running we brought them in for a temp check. Motors and escs not even warm to the touch yet. Put the trucks back out for a Pounding. Let them go for about 8 min. Brought them in for a temp check again, they were pretty warm, almost hot to the touch. But the escs were just warm. I will remember to bring my temp gun next time.

We are very please with this setup. The 9L motors are only about 10mm longer than the stock Titans. I will be installing some cooling fins. Heat sincs, or what ever you call them.

crazy nick

My Feedback: (29)

I had a feeling someone was goin to say that! Guess I'll go back to stock and start again.

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

tape your tires sir

got my solid axle pede basicly done
ill get a pic up in a bit, it works better than expected

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Sweet! Can't wait to see the vid.

rc theman

WOW, thats awesome, what axel is that? makes me want to do this, hmmmm i just might have to now

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

its some axle from axial, got it from a buddy so i cant say for certain but i want to say the ax10, ill get back to you on that

edit: yup, just texted my buddy. and confirmed it on tower myself (hes a bit absent minded sometimes)

it needs a lot of refinement and tunning not to mention a body and the right rear tires, ive been flip-flopping about where ill end up with this project but i think ill make it into my dedicated beach menace/trail truck since when i was testing it tonight it managed to climb some stuff that i thought was only the realm of 4wd trucks. the front and gearing i got pretty lucky, dind have any trouble with temps either

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

ok well got some test vids up, my tranny diff unlocked itself though during the crawl testing but the speed run was almost perfect

http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/r...t=DSCN2495.mp4
http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/r...t=DSCN2493.mp4

JoshJ

I just have to ask, why would you put a solid rear axle in? Im new to RC Trucks.

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

well more because i can than anything else, and to scale stuff i could not scale with a conversional pede. technicly speaking for offroad racing and regular bashing a independaent suspension is far better than a solid axle

Methos

Hey guys,

I have been flying planes of all kinds for years, and have only driven "toy" RC cars and trucks in the past. Well yesterday I went out and bought a Pede XL-5 and an extra 3000mAh battery.

I'm impressed with this little beast, but I made a huge mistake not buying a peak charger for the bats... the agonizing wait for my battery to charge is just killing me a little inside 8 hours at a time.

So, while I was waiting for the bat to charge I read 90% of this thread... wow what a wealth of info in here. But I'm now confused and overwhelmed by information.

What should be the first things I do to my Pede without driving an hour back to the hobby store? For now, I will be mainly driving my Pede in a gravel/crushed stone driveway and some grass with a few decent jumps. I'd like it to be able to do Wheelies, but I want it to be able to take the jumps as well. Should I change the shock setup (piston/preload spacers) or anything, or just leave it all bone stock for now?

Thanks,

Ed

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

maybe add a single "half" or "full" sized preload spacer on the rear and tighten up the slipper a quarter turn and youll be able to wheely easier, you may also want to add a half sized spacer in the front shocks as well if your jumping pretty good sized stuff.

can your plane chargers handle 6/7c nimhs? or only lipos? (asuming that is your fly electric planes and not nitro)

whats great about pedes imo is that you can do a lot with them, they are really simple and really tough so your imagination is your only limit as to what you can do

Methos

No, my chargers for my electric planes are all lipo only, and they are all 3000km away right now anyway

I just came back from a full charged bat, and she wheelies fine on pavement, but I think she bottoms out on a decent jump, so I'll go ahead and add in that spacer, if she won't wheelie as easily then I'll try tightening up the clutch a little. Thanks for the info. How big of a difference does changing the shock pistons make? and can I change the pistons without losing the oil? I didn't buy any extra shock oil... didn't even think of it.

Any other advise?

Thanks,

Ed

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

forget what is stock but fewer holes means slower reaction more holes does the oposite

Candre23

My Feedback: (8)

I think Novatech is seriously under-rating their brushless kits.

A couple days ago I got a cheap [link=http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10438&Product_Name=Brushless_Car_Power_System_3600kv/35A]35A BL kit[/link] from HK. I put it in my evader at first, and it was ridiculously quick. On the 2nd battery, it blew out one of the dogbones, taking a chunk of the rear arm with it. So while I waited for a new dogbone, I figured I'd try it in the larger, heavier stampede. I geared it as low as I could with the gears I had on hand (16:87). It took a bit of fiddling with the slipper to get it to lock up at all. In the first 5 minutes, one of the half-shafts popped out of the axle cup. It wasn't broken, so I popped it back in and tried again. Five minutes later, the pede was barely moving and had a lovely grinding noise coming from the gearbox. Didn't have time this afternoon to take it apart and find out whether it's the idler or dif, but those are the only two plastic bits, so it has to be one of those.

Not one to do things half way, I ordered an aluminum gearbox, steel idler, steel-ring dif, metal spur, and a CVD kit. Hopefully removing all plastic from the drivetrain will allow it to hold up to (what I thought was) a low-end BL kit. What do you guys suggest for dif oil?

FREEBIRD

Which turnbuckles are you guys using on the pede? I used Salsh's in front and they work OK, but I have to extend those out too much to work on the rear.


Thanks

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

well the diff isnt sealed so you cant really use diff oil (although flm or rcmonster does make one) but for grease i like PTFE model train lube its safe on plastics and is just thick enough to get some nice diff action

if you want to lock it up you can get some chunks of dry shoogoo or silicone sealent and just jam it in there it will still slip a bit but not much

BLR o

i have a really old stampede (one of my first trucks, found her in the basement) and i have a couple questions for everybody.

1- Obviously its old, and i dont think the composite gears they used to come with will hold up to well to brushless power.so i am just wondering where to get some metal gears or brushless ready one that are reasonabaly priced
2- I see the basic design for the front and rear ends, has never really changed, so i am just wondering if i can bolt on the traxxas slash chassis.
3- mechanical speed controller, really why didnt i just get an esc

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

well just about any hobby shop in the us will be able to get you the steel gears, the top gear is steel i think in the later black chassis models but if not you can get that as well

i got to ask why you want the slash chassis? its so iky and not cool

you can buy the new style tranny case molded in black as well so if you want to keep it looking old skewl you can rock that as well

traxxaspede

I need to get a new Brushless ESC and I saw a Novak Havoc 3s/8.5 Ballistic combo on Craigslist for $110. 2 questions, would this be a good motor for my stampede on 2s lipo and does the ESC work with sensored only?

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

If it's balistic on 3s. then it should be pretty fun on 2s. My son and I are running 2s on our 9L brushless motors and they run great.

Candre23

My Feedback: (8)

Got all the parts I ordered to make my pede BL-safe. Tranny rebuild went fine, but the [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXYPG6]Integy metal spur[/link] doesn't fit in any way whatsoever. I'm not sure how it's supposed to mount, but it certainly doesn't mount like the original. I think I have a very old setup - there are two slipper discs on either side of the spur. No problem, the plastic spur is still good. I can use that for now.

The real issue is the [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWRS5]MIP CVDs[/link] are too short! They just barely sit in the drive cups and can be pulled out with ease. Not sure how I would fix this. The original expanding driveshafts are old and beat up, and I already know they don't hold up to BL. Any suggestions?

Candre23

My Feedback: (8)

No response from MIP yet. Decided I can't wait and ordered a set of Integy drive shafts. They have captive u-joints on both ends, so they can't be too short. Worst case, they'll just limit the suspension travel a bit.
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...43&p_catid=109

Now, the spur issue. I got this integy spur: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYPG6&P=7
But my stampede is set up like this diagram: http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/3606_tranny.pdf
Flat(ish) spur with slippers on either side. As you can see, the integy is obviously meant for some other slipper system. What is it, and where can I get it? Alternately, are there any metal spurs that work with my current setup?

sonixx

i had same problem with mine, i had to lower my truck so the shafts would stay in the cups.

cika

My Feedback: (35)

 The Turnigy 60A esc is so much more than you'll need for you Pede. I have the 60A Ezrun (same as Turnigy, with diff. badge) in several different trucks. They have excellent power and run very cool. They have the same Peak amp current as the XE/EZ run 80A, 1/8 esc. Ive actually seen people run these in E Maxxes and E Savages. Kershaw Designs actually sell this ESC for mild 1/8 set ups with 3660 motor on Ebay. You'll be more than happy with your buy. I have one in a 1/10 2wd Stadium truck with a 3656, 4000kv and it will flip on its lid on command on a decent 2s and a 6000kv in a sct with awsome amounts of power  

Candre23

My Feedback: (8)

I found a mention of some people using the revo drive cups for dogbone conversions, because they're a bit longer. I don't know if they're a bit longer than the cups that come with the MIP set though. Might be worth checking out if the integy kit doesn't work for some reason.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTPP0&P=7