jaofos

I took it apart and cleaned it out last week and have only ran it on pavement since. That "dirt and grime" you see is metal shavings from the idler.

ftt4maniac

Parma makes a few bodies that fit the pede. The dodge ram fits the best, they also have dodge dakota, and ford 150, and chevy silverado. They all fit the wide pede version the best.

RS4rallydriver

I forgot about parma bodies. I like the ford explorer that they have.

ftt4maniac

I bet the chevy s 10 would fit nice and look cool.

jkamaris96

So I can pretty much use nearly any generic fit body for 1/10 scale truck?

RS4rallydriver

Well, I won't be messing with my truck for a while. I was driving it in a field a little while ago and I don't know how It happened but a nasty looking mushroom got itself jammed between the servo saver and the chassis and it wont shake loose. it's actually thick enough so that it's binding up the steering! I have to wait for someone else to take it off. (I have problems with mycophobia)[]

Thorough Hobbyist

Oh man! I sometimes worry about running over weird stuff like dog poo or getting a dead snake tangled up in the half shafts. Sorry that happened to you. If you can't find anyone to help you, maybe you can wait til the stuff dries up. Or you can get a good dust mask and disposable surgeon gloves.

toyoguru

What did the idler looks like then as compared to now?

RS4rallydriver

I wish it was just a snake. then I wouldn't have a problem with it. It's like, changing colors and curling around the servo saver and stuff. gross.

My friend doesnt take me seriously, he said "you think you got it bad? somewhere theres a homeless smurf." despite the situation I thought that was kinda funny. he said the same thing you did about getting a dust mask and rubber gloves. I really dont want to touch it at all though.

jkamaris96

Keep the PEDE thread alive!

Lots of VALUABLE info in here!!!

Keep on Peding!!!!

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

I had a good coupon code for Tower, so along with some airplane stuff I need, I ordered an Orion Formula 17x2 SV2 motor. I'll let you guys know how it goes when I get a chance to run it. Might be a while before I get time though...

Thorough Hobbyist

Someone messaged me about the RPM bearing carriers and putting bearings on them. I messaged back and it said message was sent successfully. But I don't see it in my Sent menu. So just in case I'll paste it here:

Hi,

Each bearing carrier uses two bearings so you'll need a total of 8 bearings. You put one bearing on each side of the RPM bearing carriers and you'll see from the shape and size of where they fit. And then you put the carrier on the arm where the bushing carriers used to be.

After that you can still put the thick metal rod that went through the bushing carrier, the one with the screw threading on the end. The idea is that the rod no longer has to rub with friction against a bushing. It can touch the inside of the bearings and turn with the bearings, the balls in the bearings taking away the friction and instead add an rolling effect. For this reason I suggest getting a new set of them, which is the front axles Traxxas part number 3637. The reason I suggest a new pair for the front is because the ones you have now, if you've been using them, maybe be worn down a little and may rub too much against the insides of the bearings. It probably won't be much of an issue and new front axles will have some looseness to do that. But it's just a recommendation.

Same with the rear which in this case is part number 2753 stub axle rear.

The stub axle pins will still fit in there. It's part number 2754 and it's recommended to order extras since they're easy to drop and lose.

The black washers will still fit as usual. What I did with mine is got an extra set and on the bottom flat side of the washers you'll see a protruding shaping. It's like two half circles, like walls around the hole where the stub axle goes through. It's said that those will press against the washer and prevent the wheels from spinning freely enough to take advantage of the bearings. I found this to be true so I did what was recommended, which is use a file to sand them down flat. I forgot which website illustrated this, it may have been the Project Stampede one. http://www.stampedeproject.com/

When the wheels are installed, you should be able to spin them by hand with the slightest touch. You can get really precise on how tight the locknut is on. I aim for being able to spin the front wheels very lightly and wait until they stop spinning. When they stop spinning, the bearings are so smooth that the wheel should come to its stop and then move the other direction. It's probably because of some very slight weight difference between once side of the tire and the other, which isn't really significant and probably changes as the tire itself wears out randomly. But it's a way to know that the front tires are free to go to its full potential.

As for the rear tires, they're attached to the halfshafts, which are attached to the transmission. So they won't spin freely like that, but you should still be able to spin one lightly, making the other move in the opposite direction. They should continue to move a few full circles.

I hope that helps, good luck!



If someone has any other input please do reply. I'm sure this has been addressed before but I guess it's a cycle that keeps this thread alive and that should be okay in this thread I'm sure. One of those differences between a static manual or website and an active message board.

Bayou_flyer

WHERE ARE PPLE TALKING ABOUT THE NEW PEDE AND BRUSHLESS MOTOR TRAXXAS IS PUTTING OUT ANY THOUGHTS ON THAT
65MPH ON A 3SLIPO JUST SAW IT IN MY MAGAZINE TOWER SAYS THEY WILL BE OUT IN MID JUNE

Thorough Hobbyist

When it's out and people are using it, I'm sure the discussion will be here since it's a Pede and it will be the next standard stock from Traxxas.

PedeBeater

Will these work??? They have a 12mm hex. If you look around I have this question in a few places feel free to post there too.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXRGT1&P=ML

Thanks for the help.

Thorough Hobbyist

Thing is, the Stampede uses different rims for the front than from the rear. On the front rims, the part that takes in the hex hub is closer to the inner side. On the rear rims, it's further out. So you actually need rims made specifically for the Stampede.

PedeBeater

That is not the situation with me. I widened my pede so I need the same rims for the front as I do for the back. The question is are they like the front stampede rims or are they like the back stampede rims?

Takedown

My Feedback: (23)

I measured them up to the stock stampede rims and they seem to be deeper meaning that it will be about as wide as stock front stampede rims.

PedeBeater

How did you do that? This is good news!!!!!

Thorough Hobbyist

Very cool, that works then.

If I put a Novak on my Stampede, I may do the widening thing too. If I did it now, it may take a bit of performance away from the stock motor.

PedeBeater

Yeah it really works.

RS4rallydriver

Wow!! I never saw those wheels before. they must be pretty new then. I was waiting for someone to make real 2.2" beadlock rims. those are pretty boss looking. I'll buy a set when my current m2k tires wear out... that may take too long though

I just looked at axials site, and they make these cool "rock lizard" tires. they kinda look like proline moabs. probably go nice with the beadlocks!

Almighty ODST

is it a glitch or did the pede thread really jump 60 pages overnight? how the? On my comp screen it says the pede thread is 267 pages when last night it said 205.

Thorough Hobbyist

That's weird, I think it was at 216 last I remember. Maybe the number of replies viewed per page is changed?

speedyAK

Anyone see the Stampede Integy A-arms? Its like half graphite and half anodized aluminum. Here's a link.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRTX1&P=7

I wonder how they'll handle. I mean durability-wise. And all the other Integy stuff for the pede like the wheelie bar.

I found them on tower.