Mxracer45

Okay guys, been out for a while on rcu, and rc in general , and i have bought an electric rustler from a friend.

Things that it has came with-

Aluminum shocks
Duratrax intellispeed 8t w/reverse
2 3000 6 cell batterys

I was wondering how do you guys think the performance would be with these modifications.

Epic intense modified 11t motor OR Reedy Flash 12t motor ( both are about the same price at my budget ) (I'll be using a heatsink as well) Also will be getting traxxas ball bearings for the wheels, to replace the bushings.

I would have a 20/81 gearing with the reedy, and a 21/81 with the flash.

Also they have adjustable timing, should i mess around with that a bit to suit my performance needs?

How much run time would i be getting with the batterys listed.

What kind of acceleration and top speed should i be seeing?

Mxracer45

Noone [] ?

capone12

My Feedback: (1)

Ok Im going to make a thread how to upgrade your rusty respectively after this.

Better yet just wait for me to make the thread and your questions should be answered.

Mxracer45

^ Ok...

I have just been out of rc for over year 1/2 now, and just needing a little help. Not a smart ass remark.

I used to know like.. everything about electrics, but i have just forgotten my knowledge of it.

Kay. Thanks.

MBX5T Maniac

My Feedback: (-1)

a 12 or 13 turn motor is the best for stadium trucks. say what's ur budget, i know that most people say this, but i think you should sell this baby, and get a nice car, such as a xxx-t or a RC10T3. (the rc10t3 off of ebay). the rc10t3 is the superior car, and is very race worthy too. it is also the superior design, and it is easier to make it go faster

speed lives

My Feedback: (1)

Man please stop mayhem lol. MX doesn't race or nothing and im sure he does not want to spend a bunch of money on this hobby right now, the Rustler is 100x more durable and can be made fast just as easy.

Mx add me on msn

Mxracer45

^ Nah, ill stick with the rustler. I want a bash worthy truck, and imo thats where the rustlers at. Ive had one before, i know.

Thanks for the advice.

So do you think the flash 12t double would be a better motor than the 11t epic, or maybe a 10t epic double at that?

What kind of run times would i get with either of these with a 3000+ battery pack.

WHat kind of speed could i be looking at? With upgraded ball bearings + carriers in the wheels.

What kind of speed difference would 1 - 2 turns make?

Thanks in advance for the actual help

capone12

My Feedback: (1)

Chilllllllllllllllllllll homie no need to catch feelings over nothing. Just tryin to help you out here just look at this thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3522017/tm.htm

Just realized though that I left out lower turn motors so just get one of the reedy worlds motors and you'll be set.

GroundPounder30

That and neither the t3 nor the xxx-t are cars, they are trucks. That said I have to disagree that the Rustler can be made as fast as easy. You are starting off with a much better truck with the t3 or xxx-t, as far as speed is concerned. They are both much lighter than the Rustler, have bearings throughout (assuming you go with a kit), and have much stronger transmissions and diffs. Just to bring the Rustler up to par with a t3 or xxx-t you'll need to buy lighter parts, bearings, upgrade the transmission and diff, etc. etc. It all begins to add up really quickly.

That's not to say the Rustler doesn't have its place, as you just said, you want a strong basher, which the Rustler is. The same lightweight parts that make the t3 and xxx-t superior racers, also make them less desirable as bashers, because of how brittle they tend to be. The Rustler, on the other hand, excels in that the parts are much more flexible and forgiving.

capone12

My Feedback: (1)

[X(][X(][X(][X(]

That is the smartest/best thing I have read all night in these anti-rustler threads where everybody just wants you to get the best racer out there so you can spend more money replacing parts than actually bashing it. You comment would go in the sig as that is pure brilliance! Too bad theres a limit otherwise it would be in there.

wetzelpretzel425

^^^amen brother... amen

scyan

The 2 motors you selected are very good. But in the same price range, I would DEFINETLY look at either the Orion Formula pro sv2 BB or the Peak Dragon. They are AT LEAST as fast as the flash and epic and require a lot less maintenance. I've done 3 race weekends on the same comm. And I usually cut the comm after 3 or 4 runs to make sure its in good shape. But seriously, the comm on my 15x2 dragon looks brand spankin new !!!!! The brushes are still very nice too. And to boot, I'm giving the 12x2 guys a run for their money...

I would look at that if I were you...

Just my thought

Scy

BTW, you can get it in 12 turns as well....

wetzelpretzel425

wow that sounds like a pretty sweet motor might have to order that when i order my new duratrax 8t reversing esc yea yea i cant wait can i have a link please

-wetzelpretzel

speed lives

My Feedback: (1)

Wow you are one dumb..... Wish i could tell you off right now but i don't feel like getting banned over you. Who the hell said we wanted to make the Rustler lighter?? We do not want to make the Rustler lighter we like it nice and heavy and durable! We don't care we loose a couple mph because of it because a couple mph wont benifit a basher!!!!

Omg here we go again, wow i just can't believe how dumb people are these days.

A Rustler can be made to go fast just as cheap as a MF2. One Novak ss5800 will bring the Rustler to about 32mph which is plenty fast for any basher! Thats fast enough why would anyone need to go much faster for bashing? Your telling me i need to buy a MF2 or T4 because i will gain about 3-4mph out of it? Are you dumb or something? Wow you act like everyone wants to go 50mph, well sorry i don't know if you noticed but just because you seem to need to go 50mph not everyone else should too. Why don't you open up are biased narrow mind and understand that people have different needs and interests than you.

jakjr

My Feedback: (18)

Every recent thread concerning the rustler has turned into a "flame fest" and it's getting quite old.

Keep this thread ON topic and above all CIVIL.

SkrapIron

With the 11t and the 12t motors, you should see speeds of around 32-34 mph from the Rusty.

As for the gearing, you should NOT use the 81t spur gear. It is designed for the Bandit only ( the Rustler is too heavy. Running that small of a spur gear will overload the motor and cause heat problems!)

The correct gearing for the truck should be 87/18. with the 81/21, you acceleration will be sluggish, and your runtimes cut to around 6 minutes. Geared properly, you should see about 10minutes runtime from those motors.

Mxracer45

^ Thanks alot scrap. So 87/18 in a rustler with a 12t motor would be good? It wouldnt overheat? And i'll still see those top speeds you mentioned? How often should i get my comm cut, my friend told me it was about every 10 runs, just looking for a 2nd opinion.

I'll also be cleaning my motor, with Epic 888 everytime i run it, and ill use comm drop however often is required. And i also wont be dogging the **** out of my motor, i wont be running full speed probably 1/6th the time. Just messin around with my friends nitro, i wanted to try and give him a little run for his money, on a low budget.

Thanks in advance.

SkrapIron

For the Rusty,87/18 is the tallest gear ratio that I'd go. What you untlimately choose depends more on the roll-out of the tires that you select,and the number of cells, that you run. As a starting point, 87/18 is a good place to begin. If you go crazy and add something like Stampede tires, you'll have to drop your gearing accordingly. With those larger tires, you'll need to run around 90/15. Again, the overall gearing is predicated entirely on the size of the tire that you choose.

As for maintenance, there is a bit more too it than using a motor spray to maintain the motor.

As the motor runs, the brushes (which control the commutation) wear away, and will need to be replaced at regular intervals. Because the commutation is controlled mechanically ( via the brushes) the surface of the commutator becomes contaminated with carbon fouling. It is a combination of the worn brushes, heat generated by resistance, heat generated by friction and ambient contaminants such as dust. As this contamination grows, the efficiency of the motor begins to decline rapidly. If left unchecked, the motor will eventually fail all together.

The use of comm drops will actually accelerate the wear of the brushes and comm. Although it add lubrication to the rotor, it also attracts more contaminants, and can actually make the motor cail more quickly. Comm drops are only recommended for racing applications, where the lubricant will squeeze out a few more precious RPM's, and that can spell the difference between a podium finish, and going home ' the first loser (second place)'

Cleaning the motor with motor spray is vital. it removes surface contaminants,and embedded dirt. But it doesn't actually clean the motor.

After a period interval, the motor will need to be taken apart, cleaned, and rebuilt. Cleaning includes soaking and oiling the bearings, having the commutator trued and polished, and replacing the brushes. Most LHS's will do this for you for a reasonable fee ( about $12.00) How often should you do it? I recommend that it be done every 10-20 runs (complete battery packs) depending on the number of batteries in the pack,and the conditions that you run in (dusty or sandy conditions will necessitate more frequent service intervals )

the only way to avoid periodic interval maintenance is to switch to a brushless motor. Since the commutation is controlled electronically,there are fewer parts, and thus reduced maintenance.

Mxracer45

^ Wow, thanks alot for the very much needed info.

I actually think my LHS stopped doing maintenance for motors, im not sure though. =/

Do i have to have my own comm station for cutting the comm? Or what?

Is 87/18 geared more for torque? Are you sure this wont fry my electronics or anything with the things i listed.

12t motor+8t intellispeed. With a heat sink on the motor. Might also get a fan.

Thanks for the info on the comm drops, ill stay away from them. How should i use motor cleaner spray? Should i take the whole can off and spray the armature or what?

Flatland2D

I would say that is way over geared. The general recommendation is to use a pinion 2 teeth smaller than the number of turns in your motor. For example, a good starting point for a 14t motor would be with a 12t pinion. You can't really go smaller than a 12 tooth pinion so that's what you'd need to start out with your 12t motor. I would recommend 12/87 to start with. The gearing you suggested will burn up your motor in no time and your runtimes will suck. Check out the thread below from the Rustler forum at Traxxas. It's a list of motor gearings people are using.

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...hreadid=213845

SkrapIron

Your suggestion is completely baseless and wrong.

"The general recommendation is to use a pinion 2 teeth smaller than the number of turns in your motor"

The general suggestion, as you have put it, is not only completely incorrect, it will actually damage the motor by severely undergearing it.

There is a direct realtionship between the Final Drive Ratio of the truck in question and the overall roll-out of the tire. It is best to maintainin an overall rotational efficiency of over 90%. If you have tires that have a 12" roll-out, your motor will function best if it is geared to at least 12.0:1, but can go as low as 13.5:1 and still maintain the overall efficiency.

Your suggestion would result in a an efficiency loss of nearly 40%. Why is that bad for the motor? Because at that loss in efficiency, the motor will be turning at its maximum RPM for the entirety of it's run. That will dramatically increase the wear of the comm and brushes, and will increase the heat beyond a sustainable limit, and irreperably damage the magnets in the motor.

Your suggestion also makes no allowance for differing size diameter tires, in which a 1/4" difference can daramatically affect the performance of the motor, and it's longevity.

Please read the article at the top of the Electric thread if you have any other questions: How to select the proper gearing for 1/10 scale RC.

Also, please stop making irresponsible suggestions as you did earlier. Alot of people use this site as a resource tool, and take the information posted as a recommendation

Flatland2D

Well the R/C god himself has found it appropriate to disagree with me again.

Baseless and wrong? Please read the thread I linked to. Everyone in the Rustler world goes by that guideline (doesn't mean to you have, but it's a good place to start).

Again, read through the thread of what other people are using in their Rustlers. You better hurry up and head on over there to tell them they're all wrong! I'm sure that'd go over well. According to you the majority of them are severely damaging their motors, yet no one has complained about decreased motor life.

Tire size is an obvious one. I never said that is the rule, just a place to consider starting. If you're running larger tires then account for that accordingly.

SkrapIron

There is indeed ONE correct way to select a gear for a vehicle, and your suggestion isn't it.

"Please don't be so close-minded to think that you are the only one with a good answer."

If you again read my post, there is a very SPECIFIC engineering principal that must be adhered to when selecting the correct gearing for your truck. I have read the link you provided more than once, and the principal behind the logic is flawed. Why do i know? 11 years as an Electrical engineer, and 4 years as a mechanical design enigneer, that's how.

Your suggestion, is again, baseless, irresponsible and whole heartedly wrong. Moreover, I find your personal attacks are very childish and rude.

I am trying to help you understand the engineering that goes into your truck, and help you better understand how to get the most out of it.

If you don't want to listen , fine.

Flatland2D

So you've got engineering experience. That makes you an expert in R/C cars? I'm a EE myself, but I don't have to puff up about it.

Call my suggestion baseless, illogical, whatever. I'll concede to that as long as you'll go over to the Traxxas boards and tell every single one of them they're wrong and causing catastrophic damage to their motors.

I'll just say one more thing about that, though, that you really should rethink calling this method "baseless, irresponsible and whole heartedly wrong" when hundreds of people have used it and not caused any damage what-so-ever. A bit of an exaggeration don't you think?

jakjr

My Feedback: (18)

I've had about enough of this bickering and childish personal attacks, be expecting a PM.