T-Frost

The top view pic is a lil misleading looking i guess but the wires do go thru the shock tower..Not the center but the left side hole..

rclugnut10

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ohh yup what do ya know me ole' peepers playin trix on me...

the lug

trx1

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turning my N to a Evader. gonna use:
a 4 cell pack,
used speedo mounted in front
gonna see if 48p will fit.
then 2 L brackets for motor mounts!

make for a nice basher.

sam rojas

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airmayle - good to know the wheels and tires showed up. gonna get the ST out tomorrow - up in Cambria, CA on Vacation, have some good dirt areas and some skateboard parks - gonna see how things go with some serious jumping.

Splittin time between the family, teaching my boy to skate a vert ramp (not too banged up after day one - good times), and breaking out the evader. good times (did I mention we're in a beach house overlooking the Pacific). Sorry to rub it in, but damn it's nice here.....

sam rojas

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oh yeah - chime in on the street tires -agree the Road Hawgs are good on asphalt. they pretty much suck on anything else - concrete, grass.... seems those strikers might make a better ride with a bit more tread. personnally gone to larger diam. Yoko's and other Big Spikey tires - other than running street speed runs, just no fun unless the evader's airborne.

sam rojas

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sent the evader on a 6' half pipe - didn't last too long. didn't have a shell - shot off the vert ramp and landed upside down. there goes the rear shock tower. shoulda brought some spare parts or maybe the jumping rig. anybody know where to get Evader parts around San Luis Obispo? lol

did some skatin' as well - damn it hurts to fall from 6' when your pushin 40. think my shoulder is about as banged up as that shock tower. Nothin a 6 pack and the sound of the waves can't fix....

rclugnut10

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Gen 3 of the B2

The NEW evader tranny upgrade post, the following was coppied from cheech4's orginal post regarding the B2 diff mod

if you get the alloy idler gear from the nitro evader, the only gear to worry about is the diff gear. BUT, to make the tranny stronger and smoother at the same time i'd invest in the RC10 B2 diff gear B2 diff rings a 5X8 size bearing and carbide diff balls. lube the the diff balls with good silicon based lube and the gears i would use ceramic black grease. the carbide diff balls are great cuz there stronger and smoother, but i dont think its really that necessary.

SO, stronger evader tranny:
Cheech4 said
for those of us interested in getting an aluminum B2 diff gear you can contact Hammad Ghuman (http://www.1hg.com/) at [email protected] and they may be able to hook you up,

i was doing some google-ing and ebay-ing for one of these gears, i found a website that does carry them for $28 per, that was posted by a fellow RCU member in reply to a post I made, (yes i feel really dumb[:'(]) either way, www.f1rc.com has the B2 aluminum idler gear made by Hammad Ghuman Racing just go under parts, for an AE then search (i'd just use ctr+f) for the gear part # 1848 i just entered the # into my search. This is an Australian based website, however they do provide international shipping but it will be extra, and is based on what you're ordering and where you live here's the order form

for the evader EXT/EXB you now also have a mod to beef up the tranny, while you can't replace the diff without replacing the tranny case and bearings/bushings to get the B2 durability you can upgrade the idler gear with
a traxxas steel 30T idler for the VXL series cars (see not below)
2 5X11X4 bearings (most 5x11's are X4's)
in order to run a ball diff you'll need along with a complete ball diff assembly 2 12X15mm ball bearings, kyosho does sell shims that size but you'll need about 8 per side because they're .5mm thick, you can find them at www.amainhobbies.com
i've spent a while looking for some 12X15's and i can't find any if you really want to run a ball diff i would go down to your local machine shop and ask them to slap some rod on a lathe and whip some up for ya i think thats the best bet
another thing i would STONGLY recomend a change to bearings because of the amount of power BL motors put out that well be ALOT of friction on those bushings which will A kill speed, B cause some MAJOR heat issues and those are NEVER good, meaning you can expect weakened gears and tranny case
also be sure to check out kwits post right under this one has a bit more info

note regarding the 30t traxxas gear -> http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9049101
note#2 regadering the same thing http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8726925 another account of using the gear
i will also note that there is an aluminum version of this same gear for about 5X the price from tower that may fit better/require less work to install...


I previously mentioned that nitro evader rings may work, they will not due to the placement of the ball holes on the nitro diff gear they are the same distance from the center as the electric versions the gear is just bigger,

i gotta put a shout out to cheech4, kwit, and all the other people who have added their time, money, and knowlage into this mod

the lug

airmayle

Hey guys. Evader is still down, should have some parts by the end of the week. Slash is up and running and added some up grades. Did a little bashing today and it was fun. Its been like two weeks since I had them running. I'll post some pics and little video soon.

monsterbombs

i wanted to take my evader out the other
day but feared the diff was melted. turned
out it just needed tightening. bashed her on 3s
for about 10 mins. good fun on a gravel road.
might still be damage inside, feels a bit notchy.

Redvanmafia

evaders good bashers?, hahaha

monsterbombs

yeh ha ha. good jawb dude.[sm=thumbup.gif]

T-Frost

Monster i'd just switch to the ext gear diff..I've ran some insane motors and haven't had one problem since i fixed the initial slipper problem..i'm using EXT case and diff...ST plastic idler and STtop shaft..have ran 40 -60 batteries thru it ,wheelies ,jumps,bumps,flips,rolls,you name it as long as my slipper works it's all good..
I did replace the pins on the outdrives in the diff with filed allen wrenchs..I tend to replace all pins with them cause i've never had an allen wrench pin break yet..

monsterbombs

i have an ext lying around. i run my slipper tight
and need the ball diff to soak up some power. thats
why i like the ball diff. and the way it handles.
the gear is old and probably not lubed thats why its
failing. and it was loose. i found the ext outdrives
(where the wheels bolt on) dont like cartwheels
at high speed. i also found that the ext diff case,
for me anyway let go before the b2. i really need
to pull it down and relube everything.
a vxl on 3s is pretty unforgorgiving to any tranny.
good to see people giving advice.

T-Frost

I deffinately agree with the ext outdrives..Mine bent from cartwheels..Love the cvd's though ,they take seem to be taking my abuse ..They actually seem to be made really well..

monsterbombs

are the outdrives to the wheels any stronger?
or bigger? i know the bit that comes from the
gearbox is beefy on the cvd but what about
the wheel end? the ones off the st are nearly twice as big
and still snap occasionally with a huge cartwheel.

T-Frost

I don't think they're any bigger but seem to be stronger..Have done alot of cartwheels and no problems with em yet..When i got them 1 didn't fit had to file a little..After that it fit but both fit rather tight in the bearings..If i get bored i'll throw them in my 4 wheel drive..Seems like when that cartwheels they always bend..lol

Aimlessone

I'll vouch for the EXT CVDs as well, durable and shiny

Though it was an absolute pain to get the hub bearings onto the axle stubs at first, I had to resort to using a press to get them on. When I got a new bearing kit, I chucked the axle stubs onto a drill and sanded off a bit of the plating on the part that holds the bearings, now the bearings can be pressed on with a bit of muscle.

Also, hook-and-loop material is awesome. I don't bother with the battery strap anymore as it keeps breaking in crashes, the entire truck seems to fare better during impacts without it anyway. I should get a new battery pack or two, as these Tenergy packs don't provide enough amps, but then again I did buy the two 3800mah 7cells that I use on a daily basis for $12 a pack, they would work great in less demanding vehicles though.

Aimlessone

Managed to clip the rear left wheel on the tire of a parked car while zooming around at 30+mph on a street covered with a fine layer of dust, broke a piece of the A-arm off, snapped a ball-cup on the camber link, cracked the wheel and destroyed a CVD. The Schumacher Venom tires don't seem to grip well on anything besides clean highly-textured concrete and clean hot asphalt.[&o] I should go get a bottle of traction compound and see if that helps before springing for another set of wheels and tires.

I epoxied the A-arm piece back together with some plastic-welder, good stuff.


The CVD swing shaft is a total loss however, swapped back to the stock dogbones and stub axles. As for the ball-cup, I have plenty of spares.

rclugnut10

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yeah the same thing happened to my nitro cvd's in the vid that i posted, you couldn't see it but at the end of the opening clip (which was the end of our day) it kinda had a bit too much speed coming to the end of the parking lot hit the grass got airborn and took a hard hit into the bank, and busted a hub and a the cvd parts cracked only in one place and one ring,
and ball cups i've busted 3 this summer, good thing i bought 40

yup epoxy good stuff i got an arm held together by that, tho no real testing done on it seeing as i got parts from nitro for it by the time i next drove it but no way am i chucking it...

the lug

x-c

Hey guys! I got the evader bx months ago when it was only $99. The stock motor has burnt out on me, and I was thinking of upgrading to the 8.5t ezrun brushless. I will be running it at 7.2v
What do you guys think? Should I do anything the car before upgrading? Also will the aluminum idler from the nitro series fit in the bx?

Thanks

rclugnut10

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yup it sure will the idler that is, if you set your diff and slipper properly you should be safe, you will need to run quality cells, but if not scroll up to the rather long post i made, that has just about every tranny mod out there, tho i may see if my B4 slipper assembly can be mounted imo its a better design... for the most part...

the lug

rclugnut10

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another evader mod...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX3189&P=Z
that is a direct drop in imo it has much less slop than the stock due to more threaded portion so its more durable and give better steering...

the lug

glancyguy

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Sorry I am late to this thread (#14991 from aimlessone), I have been away for a couple weeks. You are running a EZRun 5T? What pinion/spur are you using here? Does the motor run hot? I have an EZrun 9T in my Tamiya DF-03 MS and I am looking to put it in my BX.

rclugnut10

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i run the castle sidewinder 4600 combo geared 20,22,24 still experimenting liking 22 best tho with a 85t RR spur, may try a 32p spur, i run either matched Ep 4200 or 4600 6 cells or a zippy 5000mha 20 c lipo, my motor hits about 140-160 with proline badlands tires

the lug

Aimlessone

Im running the EZrun 8.5T motor (which is a true 540 size) geared 20/86 though I have an EXT, not a buggy, so the gearing will be different. The motor runs at about 120-130F while driving 2.2 truck size Schumacher Venom tires, maybe 140F if I try to get the truck to wheelie repeatedly (it does not want to wheelie without a fight []). The 540 size EZrun motors with the finned casings are actually 380 size motors finned out to 540 dimensions so that will affect gearing as well, but since the Evaders are relatively light-weight compared to other trucks/buggies, try using the stock gearing on the BX first which is 23/81 IIRC, then adjust from there.


160F?! That's a bit high for extended running IMO, but then again, I've seen brushless out-runners that have been regularly pushed past 170F for extended periods of time with little ill effect, though the fact that they're out-runners that have forced cooling might help.