Darknest07

hahaah...uhh i dont think you guy will be that luck with car support ... anyways I broke a wire off the on/off switch on my mamba system today, do you guy think i should resolder it and keep the switch or get rid of the switch??? witch is more handy???

Thanks!

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

i have a vid just for this actually...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEpwq7vaFHo

i'd chop it off, after that^^^ i hate on off's with a passion because they only cut power to the BEC.... they build such bad habbits, but with out them plugged in = on un plugged = off. no more ohh SSS#####!!!!!!!^^^^^^^^^^ moments when you find that lipo plugged in the next day....

the lug

Darknest07

Yeah that was what I was thinking...

Well thanks..

Link119

My Feedback: (1)

Thats why i use nimh. Great for bashing and the weight adds to steering.
Can i use rubbing alcohol for cleaning plugs, motors and things like that instead of the expensive motor spray.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

yeah it'll work fine

tho just do a small test spot on a broken part or something to be sure...

the lug

cumquat

i use wd-40 on comms and brushes sprayed through the hole in closed cans. doesnt seem to hurt performance any and a big can is like $3 at harbor freight and its great for bushings and bearings.

Link119

My Feedback: (1)

Wd40 will probably promote arcing and therefore ruin the comm in the long run.
If you have graphite powder that is better for comms just dont put too much.

I have used wd40 in my rollerblade bearings and it nearly ruined them. After engine oil is pretty good for bearings. Wd40 is for bushings.

cumquat

doesnt spark anymore than before but it seems to spin more freely. maybe it all burned of or something.

Link119

My Feedback: (1)

I think that may have happened. If you spray the motor with the motor spray it shouldn't squeak and it should be smooth.
That spray kept my photon last longer even with the added cell.

dtxandtrx

how did you get the body mounts to fit you're evader for the slash body.

Candre23

My Feedback: (8)

The DTX CVDs I put on my EXB are driving me nuts. They worked fine for a while, but now one side is somehow "too short" and keeps popping out of the drive cup. The a-arm doesn't look warped, and everything else still looks in alignment, but the dogbone end just barely sits in the cup. Even the good side is uncomfortably close to the end. I had the same problem with the stock dogbones.

Does anybody know of longer drive cups that will fit the EXB? I'm tired of having to pop it back in every time I hit a bump or take a turn too hard.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

thats odd, maybe shim the inside of the CVD to get it a bit tighter, or adjust your wheel base to get the cvd in a bit more if you have it forward or something....

the lug

mc4798

My Feedback: (8)

Did you put bearings in ?

If so did you push the bearing all the way against the diff ?

If so that is your problem. The bearing is not as wide as the bushing.

The bearings should be positioned/aligned as close to the housing as possible. The reason is the diff will slide side to side if the bearings are to far away from housing.

Hope that makes since.

Candre23

My Feedback: (8)

Yeah, I put bearings in, and yeah, that looks like the problem. I didn't notice it before, but there is about 2mm of slop where I can slide the drive cups/diff to one side or the other. with the cups all the way to one side, both ends look far enough in. Looks like I'm tearing it all apart again tonight.

I bought the DTX bearing kit, so I just figured they'd be the right size. Silly me.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

yeah the bushings are 5mm wide bearings are 4.... some tape around the outdrive may solve the sliding problem....

the lug

Link119

My Feedback: (1)

Got a call from ups saying i will get the motor tomorrow so i will update and possibly review the p2k2 pro.

Candre23

My Feedback: (8)

I managed to crack the dif case trying to pry the bearings off, so now that needs replacing. Because of the gap, lots of dirt and crud got into the bearings and they need to be replaced too. Going with acer racing sealed bearings unless someone has a better suggestion.

I found some washers that will probably be OK for shimming the dif, but I'd like to use proper shims if possible. Can someone link me to a decent shim kit that will fit? Nothing I found on tower seemed quite right.

monsterbombs

wd-40 attracts a lot of dirt,and definitely ruins bearings.
the only thing i use it for is squeaky doors around the house.
alcohol or "prepsol" (prep wash for panel beaters-thinner based)
in a atomizer/spray bottle would be cheap and evaporate,like
motor spray. a hit of some cleaning spray and some proper bearing
lube, and your bearings will love you for it and last longer.

candre,
the only thing that will keep the bearings in the tranny good,
is regular teardowns,and cleaning/relubing.i made foam circles
that i cut out with some hole punches, and glued them to the
trans case, and the outdrives poked through them.worked great
until they eventually fell apart,and i couldn't be bothered making more.

Link119

My Feedback: (1)

I have a huge problem. I got the p2k2 which is a torque based motor butwhen i ran it on a half full battery it ran really hot. Everything washot and i was using the stock gearing. My tranny is smooth but i mightneed to readjust the gear mesh because it is a little loose. If you have another solution i am open to answers.
I adjusted my gear mesh and after a few speed runs it was hot even on a half battery. Is it the pinion?

Link119

My Feedback: (1)

I found out it was the pinion because i got the motor off ebay i think they put a different motor which is made for rpms but i noticed this motor might be an rpm version of the motor i was supposed to get. I will give the seller a bad rating unless i get the real motor.
EDIT i actually got the new version it ran photon speed with 3/4 charge so i cant wait to see it with a fresh battery. The bad part is that it runs really hot with my gearing so i can only run it for 5 minutes at a time until i get a new pinion.

cumquat

what do you mean by "torque based"? a 27t is a 27t, they shouldnt really be much different. i get that hand wound is usually stronger and faster and the wind type changes performance but a 27t shouldnt have THAT much performance variation.

Link119

My Feedback: (1)

Actually its magnetic field or some tuning thing makes the motor have a lot of torque. They gave me the newer version that is tuned for rpms.
It isnt a bad motor but you need an 18t pinion with this for better results. Good photon replacement.
http://cgi.ebay.com/P2K2-Pro-Stock-M...item3a5c307c97

cumquat

oh, now i understand. i didnt realize it was a tuned. the way i read it originally i thought you meant they used some special wire to change its power and speed. its a ring inside that touches both magnets and you can change the behavior by moving the ring (although that looks to be a closed endbell motor, so no retuning).

Link119

My Feedback: (1)

Does having a slipper too tight for the motor to turn heat up the motor under acceleration. Would making the slipper so that the motor can move the slipper with little trouble. What happens if my slipper is too loose. And finally how do i know my slipper is right.
Oops i forgot my ????????????????
You beat me and it is an open endbell motor but the timing is fixed. Many things effect (affect) torque and rpm. Spring tension, timing, magnetic field, brushes, Etc.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

you shouldn't tune your motor temps with your slipper, your slipper should slip for about 3 ft of hard accel with good traction and you should set it to do that,

the lug