The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
02-11-2006, 08:24 AM
#176
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
towerhobbies.com sells all the aluminum avalible for the vader. I forgot you had a tekin, so in that case, i'd get a team checkpoint motor or cobalt.
02-11-2006, 11:17 AM
#177
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
there is no stronger tranny...
Whateveer you do DO NOT put an aloy diff gear in... It will TEAR your diff case to PEICES
Only get the aloy idler so instead of breaking trannies your shreading spur gears which none of that should happen if you have the slipper set right anywayse
Whateveer you do DO NOT put an aloy diff gear in... It will TEAR your diff case to PEICES
Only get the aloy idler so instead of breaking trannies your shreading spur gears which none of that should happen if you have the slipper set right anywayse
02-11-2006, 12:35 PM
#178
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
I know there's no better tranny. What i mean is to get the aluminum idler, and the b2 diff gear, but not the alloy one. It's made with better material than stock.
02-11-2006, 01:00 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
don't get any other diff gear... I havent stripped one/ melted it or ANYTHING
You just have to have it set right and it will be fine... It costs too much to move to the B2 gear
You just have to have it set right and it will be fine... It costs too much to move to the B2 gear
02-11-2006, 01:05 PM
#180
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
All right so you're saying if i want to run the 5.5 all i got to do is loosten the slipper? Bet won't it slip for like 20ft and melt the thing. I've melted it with a 27t
02-11-2006, 01:09 PM
#181
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Doahh, why do you say that the alloy B2 diff gear from HGI would tear your diff case?
I've heard quite a few different users of high powered BL setups on other forums praise the results of the alum idler+HGI diff gear.
Some even said it stayed silky smooth after been through a lot of BL power.
Do you say that out of experience?
What motor combination do you run now?
I've heard quite a few different users of high powered BL setups on other forums praise the results of the alum idler+HGI diff gear.
Some even said it stayed silky smooth after been through a lot of BL power.
Do you say that out of experience?
What motor combination do you run now?
02-11-2006, 02:23 PM
#182
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
He HAD the ss5800. It will destroy the tranny case if you don't go wussy on it. Any real off roading will kill it. Smooth track surface and road probably won't, but there are several people here that have built a metal tranny and the case destroyed. If you fill it with grease you may see better results, but metal to metal gives alot more vibration and rotating mass.
02-11-2006, 02:25 PM
#183
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
I disagree with Doahh, I have the GTB 5.5 setup with the HGI alloy B2 diff gear, and:
a) its smoother than the stock tranny ever was
b) I've been beating the balls out of this poor car, with no internal tranny wear or signs of tranny breakage
c) if you set your slipper loose enough to not melt or strip plastic gears with the 5.5 it'll never go anywhere, just makes alot of noise.
This is the experience that I've had thus far anyways...
a) its smoother than the stock tranny ever was
b) I've been beating the balls out of this poor car, with no internal tranny wear or signs of tranny breakage
c) if you set your slipper loose enough to not melt or strip plastic gears with the 5.5 it'll never go anywhere, just makes alot of noise.
This is the experience that I've had thus far anyways...
02-11-2006, 04:47 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
I could run my SS5800 with the slipper so tight iot would pop wheelies... Diff was set right too and no melting/stripping...
02-11-2006, 04:57 PM
#185
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
This wait is killing me. I should be able to place my order today.
Anyone know how long the car, motor, and batt. from Tower will take to ship?
Anyone know how long the car, motor, and batt. from Tower will take to ship?
02-11-2006, 05:26 PM
#187
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Doahh, from everything I've heard the SS5800 is right around a 11t brushed motor, it's still quite far from the power/speed of the velociti, neo3+, feigaio etc BL motors. On those motors I think the pastic diff gear would be problematic, of course it would depend on your use and slipper settings but I still don't think it would last very long under regular conditions.
BTW, I have yet to hear an actual story of someone melting their tranny with an alum idler and HGI b2 diff gear. I have read from 5+ users with this exact setup on different forums and all were really satisfied with the results.
BTW, I have yet to hear an actual story of someone melting their tranny with an alum idler and HGI b2 diff gear. I have read from 5+ users with this exact setup on different forums and all were really satisfied with the results.
02-11-2006, 05:57 PM
#188
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Well, i made a hybrid servo from all 4 of my stipped servos and get about a 10 degree turning radius, but i'm desperate. I also popped in the tower hobbies speed stocker. RUNNING 16/90 WITH A HALF CHARGED PACK, I WAS PULLING WHEELIES AND GETTING TONS OF AIR AND I DRAG RACED AND BEAT 90% OF THE CARS THAT WENT BY!!! I can't believe how many other motors i school with a 15 dollar old comm motor. I'm almost thinking of forgetting the quad mag and getting a couple more of these! It blows my mind. This is just funny at how much money i spend, then my cheapest setup ever beats all. I HIGHLY reccomend this motor and tower hobbis along with epic did a great job with this motor. After three sets of brushes the performance is still crazy, and i'm running sport packs.
02-11-2006, 09:09 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Ok, I know that this is a really simple question but here goes.
What are the little white foam washers that are on all the turnbuckle connections for?
When cleaning an ST I got off e-bay I lost several, should I replace them?
What are the little white foam washers that are on all the turnbuckle connections for?
When cleaning an ST I got off e-bay I lost several, should I replace them?
02-11-2006, 09:20 PM
#192
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
you dip them in shock oil and the oil the ball cups and keep dirt from getting in and destroying everything... I know this because I just destroyed my XXX-S's ball cups and studs by not putting them on... Not fun to replace....
02-12-2006, 04:16 PM
#195
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
I forgot that they tell you when to expect your order. lol
My new Evader Pro will be here in about a weeks time.
Im pretty excited now.
My new Evader Pro will be here in about a weeks time.
Im pretty excited now.
02-12-2006, 04:19 PM
#196
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Okay I got RPM rims and new proline wheels and a hitec servo (645-MG) for my st pro, now the problem. I was stripping the stock $10 servos the reason for the metal servo, but know I am stripping the steering servo arm, I have replaced it three time now. Is it the metal to plastic conection or is that I am a complete idot. If it turns out to be the metal vs plastic thing is there a way to get a metal one?
02-12-2006, 04:21 PM
#197
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Sweet. I just took mine out in snow with big rear tires
. Awesome roosts, but i kinda blew the diff. After being tightened all the way, after like 5min of rouuning it slips forever. I guess i need a rebuild.
Monstervader is my new project. Won't give too many specifics but it'll have jacked up suspension, big tires+sweet rims, a good 19t motor and possibly i'll go brushless by next year.
. Awesome roosts, but i kinda blew the diff. After being tightened all the way, after like 5min of rouuning it slips forever. I guess i need a rebuild.Monstervader is my new project. Won't give too many specifics but it'll have jacked up suspension, big tires+sweet rims, a good 19t motor and possibly i'll go brushless by next year.
02-12-2006, 04:28 PM
#198
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: russ7172
Okay I got RPM rims and new proline wheels and a hitec servo (645-MG) for my st pro, now the problem. I was stripping the stock $10 servos the reason for the metal servo, but know I am stripping the steering servo arm, I have replaced it three time now. Is it the metal to plastic conection or is that I am a complete idot. If it turns out to be the metal vs plastic thing is there a way to get a metal one?
Okay I got RPM rims and new proline wheels and a hitec servo (645-MG) for my st pro, now the problem. I was stripping the stock $10 servos the reason for the metal servo, but know I am stripping the steering servo arm, I have replaced it three time now. Is it the metal to plastic conection or is that I am a complete idot. If it turns out to be the metal vs plastic thing is there a way to get a metal one?
02-12-2006, 06:14 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
I performed this modification to my servo saver and am still using my stock servo. I still think you need to have a good working servo saver. So here is the write up on it. This isn't my writting but it is something I found and it worked for me. Like I said, I haven't stripped my stock servo yet.
Good Luck
Duneslider
""The problem appears to be that the spring is too long and by the time you have threaded the tightening nut it is already almost too tight to adequately "break" before the gears strip.
The first step is to clip about 1/2 of a coil from the spring with a Dremel cutting wheel. Then use the flat side of the wheel to grind the newly cut top of the spring flat to match the original. Before reinstalling, take the servo saver cams (two cylinders of plastic with "V" shaped notches that match together) and sand the matching surfaces with medium to fine grit sandpaper. The idea is to round the edges and peak of the "v" so that it is more likely to slide and break free. Replace these parts and tighten the thumb screw slightly. While holding the servo arm coming off the servo steer the front wheels left and right to see if the servo saver breaks.
I clean the steering mechanism/servo saver regularly with spray cleaner (squirt bottle with denatured alcohol - I use this to clean most everything on the vehicles) to keep the dirt and gunk from building up.""
Good Luck
Duneslider
""The problem appears to be that the spring is too long and by the time you have threaded the tightening nut it is already almost too tight to adequately "break" before the gears strip.
The first step is to clip about 1/2 of a coil from the spring with a Dremel cutting wheel. Then use the flat side of the wheel to grind the newly cut top of the spring flat to match the original. Before reinstalling, take the servo saver cams (two cylinders of plastic with "V" shaped notches that match together) and sand the matching surfaces with medium to fine grit sandpaper. The idea is to round the edges and peak of the "v" so that it is more likely to slide and break free. Replace these parts and tighten the thumb screw slightly. While holding the servo arm coming off the servo steer the front wheels left and right to see if the servo saver breaks.
I clean the steering mechanism/servo saver regularly with spray cleaner (squirt bottle with denatured alcohol - I use this to clean most everything on the vehicles) to keep the dirt and gunk from building up.""