russ7172

Where did you get the arm and what kinda problems did you have. I am kinda desperate because I do not now what to do about this problem.

duneslider

A metal servo arm may not be the solution. You really need to get the servo saver set correctly. If you just replace the arm with metal then something else will become the weak link. Just like your servo arm became the weak link when the servo was changed to metal. Just a little something to think about.

Later
Duneslider

Humphrey001

I bought the same servo and the same thing happened to me. I wanted to go and use it then and there so in a moment of pure stupidity I filled the end of the servo arm (the end with the Screw in it) with super glue and its worked for about 2 months with out fail.

In other news my ST will be out of action for about a week while I wait for new parts. Broke the front shock tower and stripped the bolts from the front bulkhead. Was racing my brother in laws Evader and hit a pole at about 40Kph (26mph). My fault "again". You shoulda heard the noise. Oh well, it happens.

By the way does anybody know how to get glued tires of the rims. My LHS said to soak the rims in actetone overnight, but my damn rims melted.

Humphrey001

I do however agree with duneslider a metal arm is not the answer and neither is super glue.

duneslider

I can't believe they said soak them in acetone. That surely would have melted them. I have heard a lot say to boil the rims but I have never tried it and can only imagine bad things happening.

In theory, acetone works as a superglue remover. So you could maybe apply acetone to the glue joint and pull it apart. This is just a theory I have that I have never tried.

I know it is sad but I would have to say I haven't heard of many good results of removing tires from wheels. So, the your best bet would be buy all new. I know the pain though. I have almost brand new road hawgs on cracking wheels. I will probably try some sort of removal process but I don't know if I will be successful.

Later
Duneslider

philp37

russ7172, Tamiyacrawler, Humphrey001,

hitec servo (645-MG) stripping the steering servo arm. That's happened to me. Then I discovered that the stock servo arm (horn) for the Evader that I was using was for the stock servo which is made by futaba. The spline size and number is microns differant. You can now buy the proper servo arm in a set of three that includes one of each the futaba, hitec and airtronics. All other servos will fit into one of these categories.


In the process of trying to fix this, I discovered similar information to what duneslider posted above on the servo saver. I absolutely recomend that. Without that change, that servo saver may as well be bolted tight, because it will almost never work the way it was designed to. Duratrax has fixed that as well.

The part to fix both servo problems is: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHEG0&P=Z

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

Actually, even when using the correct servo arm it can strip if you have a mg servo. Say you're going 20 and hit a tree with one wheel. That's alotta force on the servo horn and all of the linkages, and with a plastic gear servo, the gears, so it can still strip.

Yes, boiling wheels for a few hours works, and won't melt the rim. But its evader rims we're talking about so.....

philp37

Have you rounded off the contacts on the servo saver and cut the spring yet? Thats the next place to pursue.

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

Alright, i finally got my hybrid servo to be fully functional, and i got my diff problem worked out, so tomorrow i'll do dome speed runs and it's now time to order the parts for monstervader.[>:]

Flyojumper

Tamiyacrawler, can you tell me how you solved your diff problem?
Maybe it could be useful to solve mine...

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

took it apart, filled it with automotive grease and tightened it up, and so far it's working, but we'll see for sure tomorrow.

cougar1973

im gonna jump in this thread and ask some ???'s. i just purchased an evader pro rtr and want to get a nice body for it. one more like a car body. i saw one of the nitro evaders had one and was wonder where to get one.

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

They don't make one for it. You'll have to custom fit one most likely.

Not being rude, but may i ask why you would put a car body on a staduim truck?

cougar1973

not really a car body but like a pikes peak type rally body. i hope you know what i mean.

discgolfer72

quick ? just got my evader put back togather any ideas on a pinion gear size using the stock spur and a 27 turn trinty green machine i have a 20 and 17 t pinion
also have a 15 and 22 but their in use (my losi xx and rc10t) out of the 2 (17 20) what does everyone sugg

duneslider

Discgolfer- I have the p2k2 and I run the stock gearing 18,88 and it seems fine. The motor doesn't seem too warm. So I would say try out the 20 and see how the motor feels. The 17 might be a little undergeared but would probably work too.

I would go with the 20 first. I think the green machine has a little more torque than the p2k2.


Cougar- you can make any body fit the evader if you get body post extenders. I believe the 190mm bodies are the best fit but really any can be made to work. There aren't any other bodies (besides stadium trucks) that are a direct fit.

Later
duneslider

cougar1973

k thanks

discgolfer72

cool nobody replied so i went with the 17t its running great
thanks tho ill try the stock 20 t tommrow u say yours was 18,88 hmmm
i counted my stock and its 20

well the vaders back in action it dosent compare to my rc10 t but its still running better than it was i had some burnt bearings and the tranny was a little dry

shameless rc10 t plug
http://www.rcpics.net/img/73376
http://www.rcpics.net/img/73377
http://www.rcpics.net/img/73378

ill post some vader vids tommorow

duneslider

You're right, I don't know what I was thinking. Stock is a 20t and that is what I have been running with mine. I am not sure where I got the 18 from.

Later
Duneslider

discgolfer72

yea i thought mine was 18 for a while cause thats what thw lhs said shows ya how much thobby town really knows

Doahh

someone want a brushless backup vader?

duneslider

I wouldn't mind the brushless part but the wife already is upset with two vaders in pieces all over the kitchen table.

You should look into parting it all out. I bet you could get as much or more than you are asking.

Later
Duneslider

EVADERCHAOS

Doahh ~ Only if the price stays around 40 bucks.
lol
[8D]

ob1n

My Feedback: (14)

Ok...you said if I had questions....you'd have answers....well, here goes. I got this Evader BX real cheap.....brand new and they didn't want it anymore(kid had changed mind of interests). Anyway, I got a Blackfoot, Monster Beetle, and couple of Stampedes....you're getting the picture, right? I like my backyard monster bashers. I want to know what I can do to put a truck body on it and some good sized monster tires(about the size of the Stampedes wheels/tires). I had heard that you could convert the BX to an ST....but I don't want the "stadium" truck look. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

DaveG55

I was in almost the exact opposite situation. I ended up with a Evader ST pro and would have rather had the BX. After checking the parts that would need to be changed to do the job right I decided to order a new BX Pro from Tower ($99), change over what I need to complete the BX and sell what's left of the ST or maybe keep it for the spare parts (lots of parts are still usable on both). Either way, I figure that I'll end up with a BX with the parts warranty for a very reasonable cost.