Ziggmiester

If you have a soldering iron/station and are comfortable with one, you should just cut the leads on the batt and esc and make it a full on deans or traxxas plug. Just buy male and female ends packages. If you use a connector like that, you're still going to have the tamiya plug as a heat weak point. That connector would be used for your charger. I personally use Traxxas on my lipos and have never had a problem with them. I used deans for a long time and didn't have a problem with those. A few tamiya plugs melted together on me though. I'd say if you're on a budget just stick to NiMh for now. When you shift to lipo, you're looking at a considerable investment if you have to upgrade the ESC and probably a brushless motor. When it comes to batts...you get what you pay for usually. You can pick up venoms and duratraxx 5000 for 40 bucks and they are solid packs. But I wouldn't go much cheaper than that. I personally run Losi Smashers for tires on my Evader. I'd def say to give hobbyking.com a look. It's all cheaper stuff, but I have a couple lipos from there that rip in my slash 4x4. And I think I only paid like 25 a pop for them.

JMHZ, what is your setup in your evader right now?
-Mike

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

as far as quality nihm once you get 3 you're pretty much cheaper going lipo... or at least getting started on it... and it'd be better off in the long run...

a charger...

http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html

that was a good setup, i was very seriously considering that but i found a good deal on a triton EQ here on RCU for $90 shipped...

as for batts....

http://www.hobbypartz.com/83p-5000mah-2s1p-74-20c.html

or

http://www.hobbypartz.com/83p-5000mah-2s1p-74-30c.html

or just poke around something 4000+ mha 20+ C for light brushless and brushed, 25C if you think you'll want a bigger brushless

as far as connectors, imo deans are the best or you can get traxxas... deans are a little pricey, but you can get them cheap from www.hobbyking.com

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...dProduct=12105

tahts the charger i'd get for hobby king

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...dProduct=11961

those are the plugs...

as for tires to keep it simple 2.2 rims for a T4 or losi XXX-T....

the lug

eightfingers

Just checked back in and saw you guys posted. I went ahead and ordered 2 of these http://cheapbatterypacks.com/?apage=...uid=C662G1F9DDbeforeI saw your posts.It was only 80 bucks but that still could have been 3-4 lipo's, oh well. I went with Traxxas connections for the batteries so I need to change out my charger,2 old batteriesand the connections on the car I believe. Trying to figure out the connections before I look at any more wheels. Thanks for all the help guys!

The connections I am looking at are ...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVPF1&P=0

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXTZ0&P=0

Maybe just this and keep both types of connections? http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=8333

For my charger? http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=8323

Or do I just pick up a bunch of these? http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=9762

JMHZ2401

[quoteJMHZ, what is your setup in your evader right now?
][/quote]

VXL, running 7 cell 4600 mah, and 5000mah. My lipo's died after sitting too long, but I plan to go back to them in the near future. Also running a Futuba 2.4 TX and RX.

eightfingers

So far I should have just bought something new but oh well. In the last couple days I've picked up...

Bumpers with wheelie bar (I like running into stuff, figured I'd save more money this way) http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/D...vader-EXT-c38/

TX/RX http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html

Batteries x2 http://cheapbatterypacks.com/?apage=...uid=C662G1F9DD

Well I hate buying a 6 dollar part and having to pay 3 dollars shipping http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=9762was the only site I saw these connectors at and I couldn't find anything else I was looking for on HK.

Still looking for...

Wheels and tires
Will any 2.2 wheel and tires fit? I am liking these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYJH9&P=7and these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEW34&P=7
I will be putting street tires on them as my offroad tires are fine.

I want to go with the Tower for these because I want the 89 cent sticker kit, battery strap, and body. Although still undecided on the body it most likely will be the yellow ST one. Anything else you guys think I should pick up right now? Metal gears, servo, brake parts? Because my car does not brake at all really. I am just comparing it to my buddys Traxxas brakes, but it seems like it does nothing.

cumquat

braking is done by the motor through the esc, there are no special brake parts.

eightfingers

Can I change out the ESC without also having to upgrade the motor for better braking?

cumquat

if you are having trouble braking it is either a problem in setup (radio trims, dual rate, trigger position, etc.) or your motor bit the dust. if you want/need a faster (than stock) motor that is, in fact, cheaper than the stock you could get an axial 27t. it will work with the stock esc and offer WAY more torque and do to it having an advanced timing (i think it does, anyway), it could add up to 5mph without regearing. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXULR5&P=0

eightfingers

I do think it could possibly be my radio although I have no real experience to say either way. It just doesn't seem very responsive, I guess we will see once my new one gets here.

Link119

My Feedback: (1)

DONT UPGRADE ESC UNLESS YOU ARE GOING BRUSHLESS!!!

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

upgrade to a BL esc run a brushed more :P

the lug

eightfingers

Can you ellaborate more?

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

something like a castle creations sidewinder for like $70can run brushed and a pretty hefty Bl motor

the lug

cumquat

i believe that was a typo, he meant motor.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

yeahh i did... i can't type...

the lug

eightfingers

Any links to a cheaper than 70 dollar ESC that will be good with a upgraded and stock brushed motor. I do not think I will be going lipo or brushless anytime soon. I want to get a drifter then 4 wheel drive off road truck before I do anything else. I really hate how hard it is to turn on the vader, it feels like I am going to break the switch in half everytime... and the better braking wouldn't hurt.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

a new brushed esc isn't going to be much cheaper $40 ish could get you one, i'm not sure if some lower end esc's can still run brushed motors and a sidewinder would give you a lot of room to grow and is extremely programable

the lug

Link119

My Feedback: (1)

Why do you want to upgrade anyway?

eightfingers

I kind of took this as better ESC=better braking?

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

the SW can tune everythign which is why i recondmended it...

the lug

Ziggmiester

Hey, those packs look solid. And besides, part of this hobby is buying parts and acc regardless of what the best deal or best item is. I think you got a good deal on those batts. When I was buying NiMh I had to spend like 80 to 100 bucks for what you got! per batt! You'll be plenty happy with them. You can upgrade your esc, I agree with the lug, going with an esc that can run both brushed and brushless motors makes sense. A sidewinder is a good start. The only problem I see is I doubt you're going to see much of a difference in braking power between esc. I think it's more of an issue of getting your new tires. More traction will stop that truck a whole lot better.

John, I will temp my spur and stuff when I get my Evader back out for the season. A question...what do you tend to run the evader on? I imagine you are right...it either melted because the slipper. Or gear mesh. I run a MM and I haven't had a problem with spurs. I had to do the diff/tranny mod a few months after I went BL and Lipo, but I consider myself lucky there.
-Mike

cumquat

i have never had issues with braking, so it might be something defective/broken on your truck. what exactly is wrong with the brakes? does it barely slow down? do the tires lock up? is the slipper set right? are any gears worn? if the tires lock up under hard braking they are working just right. if it barely slows (or not at all), then either the slipper is too loose, a gear is worn, the radio is not set right, the esc is not calibrated right, the motor is weak or the esc (if not stock) might have brakes dialed back.

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

Listen to the Lug - get a Sidewinder or a used Mamba Max (MM doesn't need the castle link - direct plug with Mini-USB into computer for tuning - software is free download from Castle) and if you can't stomach a $70 motor yet, go grab a $30 Tacon, or a used Team Assoc. 35-4500KV (there's a bunch of used ones coming out of SC10's from people upgrading to Castle motors). Wouldn't even bother with the brushed anymore - want slower speeds - just tune the MM down. A low end Brushless is damn near 1/2 the price of a good brushed motor and as fast without the maintenance issues. If you get a used one - take a real close look at the leads to the motor/battery and the Rx plug wires - if it's been overheated - these will show the evidence - if it looks like it's been soldered a couple times - dude was cooking the ESC.

On batt packs - it's a crap shoot with the used packs - I've had great success with picking up used NIMH (racing packs are a good bet always), not so great with the LIPO (people just don't get the idea about balancing and making sure they are not discharged below cutoff voltages). If you want to go lipo, go with the cheap-end new ones - they work pretty good and until you get a $100+ charger it's just not worth the potential cost of ruining a good battery with a crap charger/balancer.

Hey Lug - had to check back in to the TEC - got a hankerin to go out an get me an ST and go BL with it.

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

looks like a Sprint ESC / stock motor - probably losing reverse, so it's not transitioning correctly from forward to braking to reverse. easiest way to check is to play around with the trim to the point that the truck is actually trying to run in reverse. Go full forward and see if it slows, then stops, then goes in reverse. If it keeps rolling forward - that ESC is shot. Oh yeah - check the brushes on the motor - make sure they aren't worn out - could be looking contact with the comminuter (that thing in the middle of the magnets with the wires wrapped around it).

Nice ST for $100.

eightfingers

So I was just playing around with it in the street for a few minutes and it slows down very slowly. Definately doesnt lock up but will rip a 180 if I brake hard and turn and come to a stop. So its breaking a little but I'm pretty sure not like it should. Now the immediate problem would be the right side drive shaft fell out while doing some figure 8's on hardwood. The pin that holds it onto the wheel must have fell out. The driveshaft is fine but I need some type of pin to hold it in. I am using a body pin to keep it in right now but its not driveable.