Aimlessone

Yes, the Sprint 2 will handle the 27T motor just fine, as for battery life, it should be about the same as running the stock Photonspeed2. The transmission should be fine.



On to another topic:

Neat fact, the EZrun 60A ESC runs fine without a fan, gets to ~120F and stays there, even when running max timing advance and driving like a madman with the EZrun 8.5T motor on a 7-cell NiMH pack.


So, anyone ever run a dogbone on one side and a CVD on the other? I've been running the truck like that for a few weeks now, seems to work fine, now to get around to getting another CVD.

Well, it's about time I replace the rear suspension plate with a new one, the current one is scraped to nearly nothing at the motor guard area and the suspension arm mounts have enough play in them to allow the rear wheels to gain about a degree a side of toe-in under acceleration. When braking, the truck to pulls to the left because of all the slop. The 4 degrees of toe-in during acceleration also causes extremely uneven tread wear.

mc4798

My Feedback: (8)

Yes to all of those. i have had no problems. I would upgrade that esc at some point as well. I use this esc right now. It will do until I upgrade to a brushless system.

I have used venom fireball 21turn motor with the sprint esc and it works fine. Ihave a 17t also,dont know why they have such a badname but mine has been working fine for over a month. ButI clean and oil everytime I run it.

Upgrade to ball bearingsas soon as you can. You will notice a big diffrence in your truck.

BashNBurn

Are the white springs on your Evader a duratrax product and are they softer or harder than the stock yellow ones?

Thanks!

EDIT > Please disregard my question and forgive me for my laziness - I now see that the white spring set is considerded the soft spring set with the yellar being the medium set.

r0bh3

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

a little mod that may be worth doing is digging up some longer screws and putting them inplace of the stock ones that hold the arm carriers and then get a thin bolt on them so they don't loosen up on you and cause nasty vibration... here's a pic of what i did idk how well you can see it but i had to dremel away some of the metal so the bolts would fit but i have yet to have one loosen


sorry about the crappy quality this was with my old camera which well 5 years for a digi camera is like 50 for a person..

the lug

r0bh3

Good tip, ya pic is a little fuzzy but the message is clear, I may just try that out.

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

picked up a nitro Associated RC10 GT this weekend at a garage sale for $40. Too cheap to pass up - is in awesome shape with the 0.15 AE motor. came with everything - tools, chargers, rx/tx, MG servos, hotshot, etc... 1st time into Nitro, so some learning curve there.

why I bring it up is it's got street tires with hex rims converted to pin axles (same thing as Evader axles). There's these plastic inserts that go from hex to pin - not sure where to get em (got about 6 extras that came with the car, so figure I've got some time till I need to find em, but they are out there). Need to grab some pics - I'll post em up.

btw - hlysht nitro, once tuned correctly, is way fast. not as fun without the reverse, and the brakes currently suck - barely stop it, but wow - makes me want to go out and buy a $200 BL / LIPO set up. cost of fuel sucks too - didn't realize it was that expensive - makes a $40 HK battery seem like no big deal!

monsterbombs

yeh i thought nitro could be cool. soon gave up on that. still
got them though. if your going to do it get a failsafe.
having a rc stick @ WOT isnt fun [X(]

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

nitro is fun but airleaks and screwy drivtrains SUCK!!!!!


the lug

mykull

Okay over the weekend I finally got my truck out to bash... replaced my servo horn with a aluminum version, and its like I'm driving a new truck... I kept stripping the plastic horns like crazy and my steering would never stay put.. I guess to the torgue and the terrain I was driving in putting to much stress on the horn and the servo connection and would wear away the teeth.

Anyway, being a happy basher again, I drove for about a hour... and finally hit a jump the wrong way, truck landed butt end first with only the motor guard hitting the ground, and then landed on its wheels after that. I hit the throttle, and it sounded like a baseball card in a bikes wheel spokes....zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz... and didn't move at all. I went to see what happened.. the whole tranny case broke / cracked in the middle due to the motor guard not doing its job.. as I guess the impacted took the screws (probably loose to begin with) out and the motor guard came off. Now I'm sure if it was on the impact of hitting butt first would of cracked the tranny case, but still... the guard was off... so I'm just gonna say it was due to the impact and not loose screws. So now I need a new tranny case... yippy.

My question is... have any of you on here done anything to help protect the tranny case from cracking in two (non repairable) or rigged up some sort of metal motor guard that might help absorb any sort of impact like I had done to mine to protect motor and tranny case?

thanks

BashNBurn

I have a RC10GT2...great little truck. The AE .15 engine is a real sleeper. They ship them with carb restrictor made from nylon - it reduces the intake diameter. I took mine out (alot of bashers do) and WOW...it runs like a scalded weasel!

But yeah, nitro is nitro and has quirks of it's own...the fuel cost doesn't help. One wonders how long it will take BL/LiPoLiFE to eventually make the little nitro power plants a thing of the past.

I still enjoy a little nitro but with the advent of buying my first LiPo this weekend even with a brushed motor, the performance is almost nitro like - I'm too scared to harness that LiPo up to my VXL powered Stampede!  That thing is silly fast with a 3000mah NiMH cheap sport pack!

monsterbombs

mykull, some have replaced the motor guard like it sounds
you have and it transfers the shock onto the tranny and brace.
the stock motor guard doesnt look the best but it does its job,
and absorbs most impacts.

who needs nitro. im working on the most powerful evader ever.
4s lipo is all im saying. nitro wont even have a chance. [&:]

projct

Well, I just converted my evader to traxxas plugs and grabbed some better batteries with traxxas connectors.  Went out and was doing some tight turns, gave it too much throttle, and it flipped a couple times.

Aimlessone

A damaged motor bearing is probably whats causing the excessive play between the pinion and spur.

projct

Thanks, so I'm guessing it isn't easy to get at the bearings and is probably better to just replace the motor with one I can work on in the future...

It's funny the difference with a good battery, I really wasn't expecting to flip it that easily at all, based on previous runs with a crappy 1500mAh nicad, heh. I should have been more careful...

It seems like it's stripping the pinion or spur a little - pinion is metal, not sure if that is stock. regardless there's dust in a pattern on the plate betw. the gears and the motor that looks to have come from the pinion gear. I'm also guessing that it isn't smart to run it currently...

Aimlessone

The dust you see is probably from the spur gear being slowly worn away from the unstable gear mesh.

To be honest, I have NEVER been able to traction roll my Evader, even with this brushless setup and having the car sit as high as it could, all that happens is just severe understeer or it just spins out. Probably has to do with the tires that I run, the HPI V-Groove Truck tires in their M compound. Looking back, I should have ordered the Pro compound ones as the M compound is too hard for running on most of the surfaces I drive on.

projct

Pavement, and Ithink this is an ST. it doesn't have a sprint 2("sprint 1"I guess?) and after googling the motor looks like an open endbell?maybe Ican repair it.

Aimlessone

You could repair the motor, but honestly, getting a new one would be a better idea, you can get a decent motor for around $20 to $25. Also, what kind of tires are on it right now?

projct

Some crappy on/offroad tires. I think I had a picture of them in another thread. they work, and I picked up some paddle tires and a separate set of wheels for sand.

My LHS may not carry anything meaningful in that price range, unfortunately, and regardless of whether I buy a better one or notI think it might be interesting to at least take it apart, heh.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

yeah you'll get that also if you get stuff in there too it'll get flug out you really need to worry when you see your whole gear cover filled with black bits then you know you're screwed. also i stripped out my stock pinion so that i had to take a few thousandths (i dremeled it so idk exactally how much but it wasn't a lot) to get it to stay in place, and i've had a few pinions loosen up on me if you're not going to be running right away locktight is always a good idea not nessasary but always good to use, as for traction rolling it, i have once or twice proline badlands WILL NOT give up traction, they are the best tire i've ever used i want to get some 2.8's and hit a track i think they'd be great, they're getting a little worn (blocks getting rounded) and are now giving up a little traction but its all very controlable and predictable, and with a brushed motor i'd don't think you'd have to worry,

i've traction rolled my B4 as well its just plain annoying thats why i love driving the evader can't flip it

the SV2 series of motors from orion are a great bang for you buck, very powerful and pretty cheap

the lug

mc4798

My Feedback: (8)

Well I ordered a evader exb today . I have been wanting one for a while now. Its the yellow one and already ordered bearings for it as well.

Cant wait to start tinkering with it.

projct

BadLands look worlds better than whatever weird crap is on mine ATM. I need to buy some glue and two sets of rear wheels too at some point.

If I want to stick with the stock class here (I have yet to actually have free time to do my first ace) it looks like I need to purchase another stock motor. At least it's cheap...

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

for rims i'd recomend http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDW24&P=M for the rears and for up front,
but if you want the spend a few $ extra and i wish i had you can get the 2.8's or 30 series or 320's depending on what brand they are all the same size these will fit the evader
LOSA7107 and you can get these
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Terrain-Tire-2

the lower sidewall is always a plus

the lug

monsterbombs

sweet. buggy's are the bomb. i want to get mine up and running
but i have been waiting for driveshafts since noah was a boy.
post pics when you get him.

the only other thing i could reccomend for it besides a mg servo is
some shocks. if your racing or doing some speed and you flip the
plastic shocks popp off. major pita .

the buggy can flip quite easily on pavement. very nimble and takes
a bit of getting used to.

mc4798

My Feedback: (8)

I will have to post some pics of my evaders together. Just seems like the truck needed a buggy (so I told the wife) to be around.

So does dtx not stock many parts for the buggies ? I have noticed Noah is a very old man now. lol

I am going to toss the speed controller and motor and get this one . I also ordered this radio today. Along with the bearings and brushless I am hoping to compete in the modified buggy class. Will have to improve driving skills 4 sure.  It will proably never see pavement though.

Hey monster I checked and tower has the axles for the exb in stock.