rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

i'd pull all your shocks dump um, re-fil with 20-30wt oil and check sizes
the dumping will avoid any problems accoceated with improper filling

the lug

airmayle

What do you mean does it steer to the right or when it is still does the chassis lean to the right?

projct

The chassis no longer leans to the right, after switching the shocks around (the previous owner of this car - got it from ebay - had the front shocks on the right side and the rears on the left) - but it still steers to the right on a flat surface with the trim at neutral... a bit like when a 1:1 car is out of alignment.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

ohh okay, hmm sounds to me like you got a bad bearing, or a stripped hub, i'd pop a ball cup and with the wheel on spin the axels, you can have the hubs so the wheels would be facing down and give it a spin, then do this for the other side, you should be able to feel the differance, if not i'd check your diff bearings or your diff its self,

an overtightened front wheel nut will also give you this problem...

the lug

projct

Awesome call... one of the front wheels had a missing bearing, heh. I had one from something else that will do until my LHS gets those on order.

I lost one of the pins that notches into the rear wheels to spin them - is that a hinge pin? trying to figure out what voodoo name incantation i can give my LHS.

My tires and wheels got here tonight, going to give that a shot!

and my brand spanking new RC18T is out of commission only 22 hours after purchase... broke a ball cup and LHS has to order them!

Not having any trucks working the first time I've had enough free time to use both really sucks. At least I have time to work on them, though...

It amazes me that my LHS calls itself a "superstore" but it seems just my luck that they don't stock parts for my trucks... I guess everyone buys traxxas and losi around here.

mc4798

My Feedback: (8)

[quote]ORIGINAL: projct


Not just there, I beleive its that way everywhere.

projct

I've heard similar stories yes, but I figured that as this store is almost half the size of best buy, it would have more parts... though to be fair they do have all kinds of stuff for other hobbies, and their airplane section is massive.

mc4798

My Feedback: (8)

Well they do have to carry a bunch of parts for those vehicles for a reason ya know .

Got my EXB on Wensday, Tore apart on Thursday and added bearings and cleaned and lubed tranny/diff. And finally today got my new tactic radio and novac brushless combo and wouldnt you know it hasnt stoped raining yet. Will have pictures up 2morrow.

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

picked up a couple used 3300 packs on the cheap ($15 ea) and damn do they kick ass. 2 matched GPs and a Sanyo pack. with my 14t Copperhead D4, Evader #1 is running like a rapped ape. Nice....Gotta watch it on the tranny though - lost the thrust bearing and was doing donuts cause all the spin was going to 1 side. good times. Made a franken Scorcher-Vader out of my old Tamiya Sand Scorcher - note to any nuts out there: old Tamiya rims fit perfectly inside 2.2" rims - ready made adapter. Decided to scrap it and am trading dead Scorcher for a street rig. thought I'd post pictures - think it's dying the appropriate death.

projct

sam, that is pretty neat looking.

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

thanks, but just not functional as an actual basher.

you can make your own by using nips to cut paper clips or heavy solid wire into the 10mm lengths. simply called Wheel Pins or Spring Pins. you running EXT or ST? makes a bit of difference.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSWW3&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMM0&P=M (ST)

also find em at hardware store - 1.6 x 10mm(ST); 2 x 10mm (EXT) - pretty cheap on Tower - couple bucks.

projct

Thanks, my evader just needs one of those and new tires and I can run that again while I wait for my RC18T to be ready to scare the cats and leave rubber on my tile (lol, it is raining a lot lately and the 18T needs a part)

I'm actually still unsure as to whether it is an ST or EXT. the sticker on the body says ST, but I got it from ebay and really haven't a clue - except that it is a sprint ESC and not a sprint 2 ESC.

is there an easy way to tell the difference without measuring? I don't have anything I can measure with on hand, I don't think.

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

quick and easy is to look at the screws - if all phillips head = EXT. #2 - look at the tranny - if dog bones with smallish ends = EXT; #3 did it come with Bearings instead of Bushings in all the wheels = ST; for sure way is to tear down the Tranny - if the differential has bevel gears in it (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXB0&P=Z), then it's an EXT. Just about everything else on the truck is interchangeable between EXT and ST (as well as an Associated XXT). EXT plastic is generally more flexible and a darker black than the ST plastic parts (if it's got Graphite, probably an ST or PRO).

makes for easier bashing without breaking but is gets more unstable at higher speeds.

projct

#1 not all philips, but there are even a handful of silver screws like the previous owner lost some - a lot of the original screws are allen keys, though.
#2 dogbones are definitely the ones I found on TH for the SThttp://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAMF4&P=FR, FWIW, the EXT ones don't seem to have a universal joint on the end.
#3 it has bearings in 3 wheels and the 4th has a destroyed bushing that I need to replace (it looks like someone hit it with a hammer and then stuffed it in the wheel), the wheels are HPI so I don't even know if the original bearings/bushings would even fit.
#4 I really am not confident enough in my ability to take apart the tranny and put it back together again, and I definitely know I don't even have the right tools, so that will have to be a pass.

So the only evidence I can really verify at the moment that makes me think it's an ST is the ESC and the dogbones. heh.

Hm, I'm about to begin gluing my new tires to my new wheels - one of the videos I watched suggested cleaning the edges of the rims/wheels with motor spray or something, can I use a household cleaner? I have pine-sol and I think some stuff that's high in isopropyl alcohol, I have to find it though.

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

what ever you use, make sure it's not leaving any residue - I'd go straight rubbing alcohol or just wipe em down.

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

bad vader crash tonight. was liking that D4 copperhead with the Intellispeed 8t ESC and a kickass GP3300. launched off a speed bump, musta caught the steering servo wires during the hood slide cause when I was coming back WOT, lost steering and missed the wheelchair cut out in the curb. Graphite chasis and everything between the battery and front shock tower shattered. Surprised - no damage to any steering parts (other than the supports for the servo shearing off). Impact was hard enough to snap both suspension mounts on the ST Pro rear. Looks like this is the new parts rig.[:'(]

snipermaster

My Feedback: (19)

i have a problem with my evader st pro.

I tore it aprt to clean it and i noticed that one of my cvds is missing a pin to connect it to the wheel thing. and Im wondering do I need to buy new ones to replace this or is there a part i can buy to replace it?

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

yeah you can get a replacement they're either 2X10mm spring pins or 1.6X10 mm spring pins i believe
http://downloads.hobbico.com/evpl/dt...7-exploded.pdf

that should have it, if not i'll see what ones fit tonite,

the lug

monsterbombs

you can cut down a tiny allen key to fit. strong as hell too.
someone elses idea from a while back, works like a charm.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

i killed 2 spurs today, one was my 32p cuz i forgot to mesh it, yes you read that right FORGOT to mesh it, not meshed poorly just i bolted the motor in, then the pinion and was done didn't move the motor after i got the pinion on or anything, yeah i feel dumb.... my next one was a 86t duratrax 48p, and was from my motor moving, damn cartwheel, it was epic tho, WOT i cartwheeled and it was heading for 2 trees really close to eachother and it when right thru, it had like 2 in of clearance, it was insane, then i took off with a zing and curse, but a mod i did worked great...
i haven't been able to run the evader for a few weeks due to a dead rear tower, well the tower never got replaced but it did get redrilled and it worked sweetly almost totally killed my wheeling at speed problem its great



the lug

BashNBurn

Wow! Nice mod job there, Lug!

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

yeah you'll need to cut both outer mount points the one with the strait cut was me and a dremel, if you want to keep you're fins you may have to shim it out a bit, idk how this will affect streght, i realzied there wasn't a lot of extra materail after the cut but it held for a bit and i love how it handles its soo low its great wheelies are controled :O

the lug

gelbschnee

There's something about this 600+ page thread about evaders that makes me want to buy one.

I would make it the "Darth Vader" LOL

projct

offtopic, but Igiggled at your username.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

yeahh i was playing this that idea a while ago full black parts, even paint the shocks, for the TiNi shafts soley for looks, get AE trunbuclkes for the blackness of them these rims
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/3084/
and this shell
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/7110/
but go for a darth vader spec paint jobber and probally some PL speed hawgs 2's and just to keep with the black look an orion BL motor

the lug